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Jet cabinet saw re-hab #6: Blog / project resurrection....

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Blog entry by Mainiac Matt posted 505 days ago 1419 reads 0 times favorited 11 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 5: more progress on the top... Part 6 of Jet cabinet saw re-hab series Part 7: Houston, the Eagle has landed!! »

I finally knocked out several other (non-woodworking) projects and got back into my TS last night.

Since I have to move it from the barn to the basement all by my lonesome self, I’m disassembling it into the major sub-assemblies. I have the cast iron table and extensions cleaned up and moved down. So last night I took down the motor and cleaned it up…. YUK!

This saw was last used in our box shop at work to cut blocks from glued up thicknesses of cardboard and it was NOT hooked up to DC. So they would scoop out the cabinet when the fluffy waste started burping out top :^O

So the junction box and starting coil shroud were both packed full of the stuff, and quite a bit was in the fan housing as well. But it’s a sealed industrial style motor and spins freely, so I’m not concerned about it getting into the windings. I filled a Wal-Mart bag 1/3 full with the fluffy shreaded cardboard by the time I was done.

Can you say ACHOOO! I’m not supposed to start sneezing untill fall alergies kick in :^(

I couldn’t break free the set screw on the three groove sheave, so I poured rust remover in a metal cookie tray, and stood the motor on the end of the sheave, resting on some 1x strips across the top of the tray. Two hours later the sheave cleaned up with minimal effort.

I didn’t take any b4 pics….. but I’ll try to shoot some after ones tonight.

Now my big decission….

To remove the trunnion assembly and haul it down in pieces, or try to rig the cabinet down the bulkhead with the trunnions still in it, using a tractor bucket and chains. I pulled this off with a 400 lb. bench top milling machine still in it’s crate once…... but it wasn’t fun.

Any body out there pull the trunnions off of a cabinet saw?

does the assembly stay together when you remove it? Or do the trunnions come out of the trunnion bracket ways as soon as they are unbolted and lifted?

If I had my druthers, I wouldn’t pull it apart.

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!



11 comments so far

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

3844 posts in 932 days


#1 posted 505 days ago

Here she is all cleaned up and spiffy. Simple Green full strength and a toothbrush work small wonders.

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

View PhilStLouis's profile

PhilStLouis

17 posts in 503 days


#2 posted 503 days ago

Hey! Nice saw!

I’ve been lurking for a month or so and stumbled across the beginings of your series and was bummed that you hadn’t showed us the results of your project. I am really interested in your journey as I just aquired the same saw. I was the lucky first responder the a craigslist ad and paid $200 for it. Came with a huge set of Biese fence rails but no fence. Missing the Splitter/gaurd and the cabinet front door.

I havn’t found a whole lot about the saw online (other than the manual) but went ahead with the fix up process somewhat blind. Perhaps we can share some of our learnings from the process….

So far I’ve changed the bearings in the arbor and motor. They both really needed it!

I gave the cabinet a paint job and put everything back together. I don’t have time to finish the job for another month or so. I still need to allign everything, build a cabinet door, figure out the best splitter (potentially a retrofit delta), and set up the fence. I also built a mobile base for it and had to replace the handwheels (front was broke off)...the crank shafts also need straightening. Damn, what a process. I’m really stoked about the saw!

I have some pictures I can post and I can’t wait to see more of yours. Post some pics of the cabinet door if you can.

Phil in St. Louis

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PhilStLouis

17 posts in 503 days


#3 posted 503 days ago

Here are a couple shots of mine…let me know if you need to see anything in particular

And the splitter mount in question:

View PhilStLouis's profile

PhilStLouis

17 posts in 503 days


#4 posted 503 days ago

Oh, also, my LihDar motor has 1984 stamped on it…What year is yours? How excellent is it that they stamped the bearing types right on the motor plate as well!

Phil

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

3844 posts in 932 days


#5 posted 502 days ago

Hi Phil,

Your saw looks great.

My motor turns pretty smoothly, so I’m not popping open the case. Though I will be changing over to HF link belts.

I’ve talked to a gent at Jet (very polite, knowledgeable and helpful) and though they no longer support the old CTAS line, it appears that many of the parts for the JTAS will transfer over to this saw. I can pass on his e-mail address. If you are interested, PM me.

Mind me asking what you used for paint. I wasn’t planning on re-painting mine…. but may do some touch ups.

I was lucky to get the saw pretty much complete, with fence and blade guard. The fence and splitter is pretty beat up and I’m not crazy about the design. So I’m interesting in having a Shark guard made for it. I’ve corresponded with the guy who makes them and he says he thinks they will work, but wants me to provide some photos and measurements. Maybe we can do a “group buy” ;^)

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

View PhilStLouis's profile

PhilStLouis

17 posts in 503 days


#6 posted 502 days ago

The paint I used isn’t a match, but I like it. Its a Valspar brand spray called cobalt cannon.

I was also looking at the shark setup and was thinking the one they made for the JTAS-10 might fit. I saw somewhere online a guy took the removable splitter from the delta unigaurd system (splitter does’t seem to be currently available) and installed it on his JTAS-10 with very minor modification to the mounting holes. From that I gather that the overall design of our jet saws are based on the older uni-saw.

I guess what I’m saying is I don’t fully understand how the shark system mounts the the rear trunnion. Do they supply a mounting bracket or does their system work with our factory mounting bracket? I know they offer the “ratcheting handle” so swapping the splitters is easier.

Does your splitter mount look like the one I pictured?

Glad we are in this together!

Phil

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PhilStLouis

17 posts in 503 days


#7 posted 502 days ago

Splitter bracket from JTAS-10:

Slightly different but look at all the right to left adjustability on the JTAS-10 bracket. I’m thinking we could buy this bracket (~$8) and then buy the JTAS-10 kit from Shark.

Phil

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

3844 posts in 932 days


#8 posted 502 days ago

The picture you’re showing from replacement parts looks like the mirror image of ours and is most likely left tilt saw…..

Given their vintage, I suspect that these Jet CTAS saws were the opening salvo of the “Asian invasion” as they were manufactured in Taiwan and were knock offs of the early Delta Unisaw (though the castings appear to be of slightly lighter construction).

I find the Shark Guard web site to be a bit confusing to navigate. But if you e-mail the guy, he appears to be very willing to help you in any way he can.

How difficult was the motor bearing replacement?

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

View PhilStLouis's profile

PhilStLouis

17 posts in 503 days


#9 posted 502 days ago

Yeah, you’re right about that being a left tilter!

The bearing replacement on the motor was the easiest I’ve done…one big load bearing and one smaller…I wouldn’t hesitate to do it while you have the motor out…I just used a pretty standard gear puller and a pipe that fit the inner race to pound them on
Phil

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PhilStLouis

17 posts in 503 days


#10 posted 494 days ago

edited* whoops

View JoseN's profile

JoseN

1 post in 478 days


#11 posted 468 days ago

I also Just purchased the saw and have found out almost nothing is available.
I would like the email to the gentleman that know the interchangable parts from the CTAS to JTAS

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