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shop bench with lots of storage #7: Face Frame done

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Blog entry by Mainiac Matt posted 07-02-2012 01:35 AM 3451 reads 0 times favorited 2 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 6: ready for face frame... Part 7 of shop bench with lots of storage series Part 8: finished the FF and started installing drawers »

Well, this is my first attempt at making a face frame…. but the way this design is set up, I’m not sure that I should even call it a face frame…. more like banding in some ways.

Either way… I carefully measured and cut the stock, then very carefully ripped each member to a dim. I transfered with a combo. square.

Then I made my first mistake…. and pre-sanded the members (the boards had been in storage for a long time) with a belt sander ….. which inadvertantly rounded over some of the ends….. ooooops!

I connected the rails and styles with two pocket holes each…. then clamped the frame to the chassis and marked both for biscuits…. .... cut biscuits slots… dry fit… seperated….. glued it up…. and clamped using 2×4s as cawls for the two interior verticle members. I only had 4 pipe clamps and 4 parallel clamps that were long enough and wished I had at least two more…. Can you ever really have enough clamps?

Somewhere, unbeknowst to me, two of the pocket holes cracked through the ends of the top horizontal member…. I didn’t detect this when screwing the members in place… so I’m wondering if they cracked during all the handling afterwards. I tried to work a little glue into the cracks and clamped directly over the spot. One side closed up nicely… the side shown below….not so nice.

Live and learn…

six out of the eight unions look just like this, with no touch up….. so I can see why the Kregg system is so popular.

the verticle members on the outboard ends are only 1-1/4” wide… but it turns out that it was the end grain of the receiving horizontal member that gave.

I’m not calling them rails and styles…. since styles seem to always go all the way through to the edges and rails fill the gap. Maybe that’s the way I should have done it… as the top will be covered, and the cracks would have been hidden. Since the bottom horizontal member is more like an apron, I thought it would look funny if it didn’t go through to the end.

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!



2 comments so far

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2338 days


#1 posted 07-02-2012 04:27 AM

thats very interesting where the parts cracked. it also doesn’t seem like it crached where the pocket holes are, but ‘lower’.

for what it’s worth – for 1-1/4” wide parts, I would just use 1 pocket hole per joint to just pull them together, and let the glue keep it in position long term

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

4164 posts in 1018 days


#2 posted 07-02-2012 12:51 PM

I see your point…. I know I had the jig set up for 3/4 stock and used the approprate screws….

I asked the question about pocket screwing these thin members as a seperate forum post and some commented that it should be no problem to use two screws…. which worked fine for the ones in the middle…. but not enough meat to receive the screws so close to the ends I ugess.

Oh well…live and learn…. this one is a skill builder for sure.

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

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