Barnwood Countertops

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Blog series by spunwood updated 02-04-2012 09:33 PM 13 parts 70948 reads 32 comments total

Part 1: Introduction

12-29-2011 03:47 AM by spunwood | 2 comments »

At the beginning of August, with the discovery of mold in my kitchen, I began building new countertops. The wood for this work all came from my inlaws barnwood. After getting the countertops glued up, I was interupted by life (teaching, UPS, kids, divorce, and more). Where I left off, I had just gotten the sections back from a local cabinetshop where it was run through a drum sander….. Well, FOUR MONTHS LATER, what a thrill to get back into the shop three days ago. I am tryi...

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Part 2: Breadboards: Resources

12-29-2011 04:08 AM by spunwood | 1 comment »

I decided a while back to add breadboard ends to each of the four sections. These will add beauty and stability to the countertops. What will follow in my blog is almost nothing original. It is mainly just a walk along. Here are my main resources which I highly reccomend. Having never done this before, I got some great information from: -our own GaryL -an excellent how to video on making the breadboard ends from Popular Woodworkinghttp://www...

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Part 3: Dimensions & The Tongue

12-29-2011 07:00 PM by spunwood | 1 comment »

DIMENSIONS Okay, so how big should the battons (breadboards) be?How big should the tongue, the tenons….? Well, I am not sure if there is a hard and fast rule. I went with a mixture of necessity, imitation, and inspiration: 1. I calculated the length of each coutertop section which I wanted to end up with, including space at the wall for movement. 2. I calculated how much each breadboard (-loss of tenons) would add to what I already had. 3. Then I made a decision on th...

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Part 4: Still Breadboarding: The Main Groove

01-05-2012 04:39 AM by spunwood | 3 comments »

This was a pretty straightfoward part of the job. The only trick was getting a snug fit and centering the groove perfectly. You see, I had foolishly milled the breadboard ends to exact thickness, rather than oversizing them a hair. This meant I had to be spot on! How could I perfectly center the groove? The trick turned out to be to get close. Rather than aim for perfection, I got as close as possible. Then with each pass on the table saw, I ran each piece through twice (once...

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Part 5: Laying out the Mortises & Tenons

01-05-2012 03:12 PM by spunwood | 1 comment »

I love using story sticks, keeps the human error out (as much as possible). The black walnut was used to mark off the tenons and mortises. It was trimmed at each consective point of layout. You can see my layout plan, the story stick at work a shorter story stick for the next layout the story stick on the breadboard the layout on the bread board The layout on a panel

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Part 6: Cutting the Tenons & Repairing a Break

01-05-2012 03:44 PM by spunwood | 4 comments »

I cut the tenons in two parts, as suggested by the popular woodworking video. A. I cut down the lines. I used my dovetail saw, but I am sure there are many ways to do this, say, even with a tenon saw. B. I inserted a pattern bit into my router. I cut and planed down a piece which was the exact width of the tongue. This piece was also just slightly thinner than the depth of the shoulder of the tongue. These dimensions are important for two reasons.1. Getting the tongue right means the...

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Part 7: Mortises

01-07-2012 07:12 PM by spunwood | 2 comments »

This was the most time consuming part of the whole business. Though I drilled out the mortises with a forstner bit, they still required a lot of clean up. Perhaps too much slop in the drill press or the tenon was just slightly oversized. Anyway, I chiseled away, made the witdth and depth of the mortises a bit oversized for the purpose of wiggle/expansion room, and glue. I found that I had to fix the mortises even after these pictures by drilling just a bit deeper. Marking the mortise de...

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Part 8: A Stopping Point...Help with next steps please

01-07-2012 07:58 PM by spunwood | 9 comments »

Okay. I have the countertops to size, the breadboards ready, and a few peg holes left to make. I just realized that the sink will be on top of two of the breadboard ends I have gotten a good fit, but I am concerned about water! I only drilled holes in the two breadboards by the sink from underneath, but even with a good solid fit, water is going to be a problem. I am thinking of putting a finish on the inside of the breadboards and on the tenons to seal them…maybe the varath...

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Part 9: Pegged

02-04-2012 08:59 PM by spunwood | 0 comments »

Here are a few photos of the breadboards peg holes.

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Part 11: Arm-R-Seal

02-04-2012 09:42 PM by spunwood | 1 comment »

Well, I love how this finish went on. I rubbed it on heavy with a rag. Then with the same rag rubbed it gently in the direction of the grain. After each coat, I sanded with 600 grit. Each side 3 got coats. I still had a few light lines and a few drips on it.

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Part 12: To wax or not to wax, that is the question.

02-04-2012 09:54 PM by spunwood | 5 comments »

I think that a Johnson’s wax cover might give this countertop some extra protection and also hide some of the imperfections in the arm-r-seal finish. What are your thoughts. I have some pictures here of it and also a picture of one of the drips…the last picture. Love to hear your advice. May wax it in two weeks.

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Part 13: Filling Holes, Making a Mess, Using Epoxy

02-04-2012 09:33 PM by spunwood | 2 comments »

This part of the blog should really be between the backsplash entry and the arm-r-seal This is the transition I have dreaded. All the pieces have been cut and shaped and glued and prepped. Now begins the finishing process! These countertops need to be pretty waterproof, but I want to retain the knots, and worm holes. Thus I opted for 24 ounces of Clear Coat from System Three. But that stuff is a bit expensive, so I first filled the holes on the underside with wood putty. This also...

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