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Grizzly G0555 Upgrade (are my wheels no longer coplanar?)

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Blog entry by spaids posted 09-10-2008 03:57 PM 2965 reads 1 time favorited 11 comments Add to Favorites Watch

The Grizzly G0555 is my first band saw. Having nothing to compare it to might make my endorsement less impressive but I love this band saw. I recently upgrade it with the riser block kit. Installation of the block was very easy although I had to borrow a 26m wrench from my neighbor. Resetting the tension was not simple because for some odd reason Grizzly does not include those instructions. If you do this upgrade find some one on this website with the instruction PDF for resetting the blade tension. My new red blade guard needed at little bending and twisting to make it fit like it should but it was not tough. It does not appear that I need to do any alignment either. Weird. I did adjust the knob a little to get the blade riding in the center of the tire but that was it. The whole ordeal was pretty painless.

Here is where I need advice.

If my blade is riding in the center of the tires am I done? Should I be concerned if my wheels are coplanar when my blade seems to be riding fine? I do notice, now that I have so much more blade length, the guide bearings need to be readjusted if that mechanism is raised or lowered more than a few inches. Raised all the way up for full cutting length the blade is rubbing the saw side bearing and if the bearings are lowered for cutting thinner pieces the blade is rubbing the outside bearing. Does everyone have that issue? I’m afraid that there is no adjustment that can be made for this other than constantly adjusting the bearings. As I type this it dawns on me that if the wheels are not coplanar then the blade could be twisted and cause the exact problem that I am seeing. So how do I adjust this?

I could really use some Band Saw 101.

-- Wipe the blood stains from your blade before coming in.--



11 comments so far

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8523 posts in 3115 days


#1 posted 09-10-2008 04:15 PM

hmm, thats actually very interesting – especially the blade guides being that much out of alignment- although from what I’ve read so far it is a common thing for blade guides to have to be readjusted when large changes are made in height – so I wouldn’t worry about that. I would however check wheels for coplaner – after all, that is a bandsaw tuneup process whether you have risers or not, and is independent on blade length.

I don’t have the grizzly, but I think these are general band saw questions, and I’ll be interested in other people’s opinions and info. maybe people with the Grizzly have similar experience though.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View Bob #2's profile

Bob #2

3809 posts in 3488 days


#2 posted 09-10-2008 05:06 PM

It sounds like your riser block was not plumb . If it tilts one way or another all your settings can be thrown off.
The other thing tha could move your guides is the new guide extension post. If it’s not true your guides will follow the angle it is sitting at in relation to your blade.

Why not call Grizzly and discuss it with them?

Bob

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

View spaids's profile

spaids

699 posts in 3159 days


#3 posted 09-10-2008 05:08 PM

I just looked at the Grizzly PDF manual for this saw online and the instructions for blade tensioning that were missing for some people are incorporated in the current online manual. Its Page 42.

-- Wipe the blood stains from your blade before coming in.--

View spaids's profile

spaids

699 posts in 3159 days


#4 posted 09-10-2008 05:21 PM

I thought about that to bob. If that is the case then there is little I can do about that. Its a machined part and for some reason I just have doubts that it is the culprit. I admit that I have no reason for the faith in the new block. Sorta sounds like the kind of thing that gets “adjusted” with a hammer. So your band saw does not experience this trouble Bob? I am talking about height changes of a few inches.

PS my wheels were coplanar before the block was installed. It was just set correctly from the factory. I’m actually a little intimidated of the thought of having to shim a wheel.

-- Wipe the blood stains from your blade before coming in.--

View dsb1829's profile

dsb1829

367 posts in 3093 days


#5 posted 09-10-2008 06:46 PM

Borrowed words:
“Top Wheel Alignment
This is an old subject that is included in every book and article on the bandsaw. But it is important, so we’ll do it again. Install the top cover and wheel. Spin both wheels. Listen to the bearings and replace them if they make “funny” noises. A good bearing will not make any noise. Get the replacements from an industrial bearing supplier, located under “Bearings” in the yellow pages. You can buy three grades better quality for less than the price of replacement bearings from the manufacturer of the saw.

These saws have lightweight aluminum wheels, and their balance is usually OK. The seals in a new bearing will prevent spinning them to see if there is a heavy spot.

Check the wheels to make sure they are round at the rim edge (not on top of the tire). The allowable tolerance will depend on how the saw is used, so I won’t make any recommendations, but a variation of 0.005” is typical for these wheels. Any run-out is usually visible by touching a pencil to the wheel while spinning it by hand. Check with the manufacturer for a replacement if it is not round within a few thousandths out.

The wheel alignment must be checked with a blade installed and tensioned because the load will distort the saw frame. This can be as much as 3/32” at the top of the wheel when a ½” blade is installed on a saw with a riser block.

Check the wheel alignment with a long straight edge held vertically against the rims, near the hubs. Tilt the top wheel until both wheels are parallel vertically.

Check that any offset between the wheels is the same at the rear and front of the wheels. If it is not, the frame is twisted at the assembly joint This is a common problem when riser blocks are installed because there are now two (2) joints and two (2) pairs of alignment pins in the saw column. Enlarge the alignment holes in the riser block at only one joint. I prefer enlarging the holes to removing the pin because this provides a “stop” to hold against while tightening the assembly bolt. A film of epoxy (blue Lock-Tite® works well) on the surfaces will improve the joints. The assembly bolt is difficult to reach, but it must be tight. Borrow two open-end wrenches if you don’t have them. A Cresent-wrench won’t get it tight enough.

When the gap is the same at the top, bottom, and front and back of the offending wheel, their planes are parallel. Now we want to get them in the same plane (coplanar). If the gap is larger than 1/16” when the wheels are parallel, put a good quality 5/8” machine washer behind the offending wheel to move it out from the frame. It is normal for the top wheel to be set back 1/8” from the bottom wheel when the saw is assembled at the factory. “

Full article:

Fine Woodworking also has several articles on tuning the bandsaw. What I pointed at above deals mostly with twist at the riser block. You may actually have tilt. I am not 100% sure from your description how the guide is tracking through its travel. Basically you can align the upper wheel to match the guide’s angle. Most have adjustment R-L and also in-out wrt the axle. Shimming would be required. Once you had everything shimmed to align the blade to the guide you would then need to align the table to them as well.

That is all fairly elaborate. Personally, being new to bandsaw tuning, I just adjust my bearings and blocks when I change the height of the guide. This only takes me about 30 seconds which IMO is better than the hour or two of shimming and tuning the saw. Maybe when I have more free time.

-- Doug, woodworking in Alabama

View John Gray's profile

John Gray

2370 posts in 3351 days


#6 posted 09-10-2008 06:58 PM

I purchased a Kreg Mitersaw Fence at a Woodworking Show and it included a bonus book for free, The Bandsaw Book by Lonnie Bird. The book is great and goes step by step about how to set up the saw and a lot more, I highly recommend it.
http://www.amazon.com/Bandsaw-Book-Lonnie-Bird/dp/1561582891/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1221065656&sr=8-1

-- Only the Shadow knows....................

View Bob #2's profile

Bob #2

3809 posts in 3488 days


#7 posted 09-10-2008 07:08 PM

Spaids, I have two bandsaws. The 14” with riser need continous tweaking to keep it adjusted and lined up.
I finally given up trying to make it stay in spec and only use it for cutting thinner wood with no particular tension on the blade .

I can get it cutting true but it just takes too much of my time for such short rewards.

My 18” is pretty much stable throughout the life of the blade change.

Bob

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

View spaids's profile

spaids

699 posts in 3159 days


#8 posted 09-10-2008 07:49 PM

Wow complicated! Thanks guys.

-- Wipe the blood stains from your blade before coming in.--

View corgifrog's profile

corgifrog

4 posts in 3018 days


#9 posted 09-10-2008 08:01 PM

you need the wheels coplaner for sure, this article is pretty good. with pics and diagrams.
http://www.woodcraft.com/articles.aspx?articleid=223

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

9447 posts in 3518 days


#10 posted 09-15-2008 03:39 AM

Is it me or what? In order to reply to this blog, I am typing in a small 1/2” part of the reply window which is way off to the right… I am typing without seeing what I am typing…

Looks like a software problem with the Blog section…

Am I the only one with this problem?

Now, I hope when I click POS, it will Post the reply…...

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

9447 posts in 3518 days


#11 posted 09-15-2008 03:41 AM

Looks like it posted OK… but I cannot read it… It’s shoved way over to the right of the screen… I can only see 3 characters of each line.

Looks like it all started with post by “Spaids” 4-5 posts ago…

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

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