I have started a full sized chess board made out of veneer. The squares are made from Nigerian Satinwood, Curly Maple, and edged with Mozambique. I used a dyed black veneer on it’s side for banding between the squares, and a pre-made banding for the outer trim.
The board was made with most likely the most common method of cutting strips, and glueing them into a stripe pattern. Then cutting equal strips the other direction and glueing into the checker pattern. I added very thin strips of black veneer between the glue-ups and then sanded them down when it was assembled. The porblem was that the black dust got into the grain of the lighter woods ruining it. Thankfully I had not glued it to the backing yet. Because I used the “bad” side as the glue face. Next time I think that I will try to use some sort of fingure plane.
I glued the face onto a pine plank, but when it dried overnight the board cupped. I had planned on putting some plain veneer on the back to stabilize it….. but I had no idea that the pine would move so quickly!! So the center of the board is about 1/8 (or even a bit more) off of the ground. I’m going to glue the bottom face on anyway, but I’m not sure if it will be too late now. Any feedback or suggestions on this would be greatly appreciated.
So my next plan is to trim the edges on the router table…... (my ~new~ router table :). Then make a molding for the edge. I’m not sure of the wood type yet, or exactly how I’m going to join it. But I’m thinking of putting a kerf/slot along the side. And then making a tongue with a rabbet on the top and bottom sides of the edging. Maybe some sort of corner block to hide those joints.
This may be on hold for a bit though…... I’m finding myself HUGELY distracted with that router table. :) So many possibilities now!
-- Dale, Oregon