I set up the router table to make the slots for the slide rails. I just used a 1/2” straight bit to make the groove and I sized my rails to fit later.
So here I used a chisel to square up the fronts of the grooves that I just routed. This is not really necessary it will just make it easier to adjust the drawers forward or backward if they don’t line up just right, Which they didn’t in the end. I had to remove just a bit more towards the front on one side so that they came in line after sliding the drawer in. Also, it doesn’t scream ” Hey I cut this with a router and was too lazy to clean it up”.
Here I cut the rails that will be attached to the carcass. I made them slightly smaller than the grooves and cut them about a half inch shorter than the overall length. I just installed them forward of the back of the box after measuring from the front face of the drawer and marking that on the side of the carcass.
Phew was it hard getting these screws into that wood in such a tight space. I put some DS tape on the backs and lined them up with pencil marks that I put on the carcass. Then pre-drilled, my drill barely fit in there, countersunk and screwed them in two screws per slide rail.
I went to Lowes and picked up some hardware that would match the look of the hinges (antique brass) and that weren’t too big. This is what I came up with, but they stuck out too far for my taste so I countersunk the rounded part in to a hole so that they would lose about a quarter of an inch in protrusion.
See how far out the knobs stuck…Now to cut off the top. Pray for me.
Okay so this proved to be much harder than I expected. My saw didn’t like this type of cut very much at all. My fence was not tall enough and I didn’t realize that it needed to be until after I made the cuts. I added the tape to keep it from tearing out only AFTER one pass and seeing the devastation. Don’t worry, I have it finished now and it worked out great.
I realized I had a problem with the tenons and the work surface cause it would sit at an angle. Decided to put the runners on the sides with DS tape. Fabulous. (DS = double sided)
One final note: I got the top cut off the box and had to do some sanding and hand planing to get it to fit right. I was in my shop at about 90 degrees and like 100% humidity. I then moved it inside to show my wife where it is about 77 degrees and 50 % humidity then to my work where the humidity is even lower due to a de-humidifier we need for equipment. Anyways, The top warped big time. It moved almost 3/16”! I put aluminum foil over the top and clamped it to a flat board then put two of those metal cone light fixtures with incandescent bulbs over that. It heated it up then I removed the lights and let it sit overnight. I am going to finish it in that same room at my work so that it doesn’t change climates anymore. I am probably doing something wrong with this and I have never worked with zebrawood before either. The top is book matched so maybe that has something to do with it? I was freaked out and worried. I believe it is under control now but I guess we’ll see. If anyone has any advise on this by all means post me a note. Sorry I didn’t take any pictures of that I was in a panic, that would have been a good idea. Thanks
-- LAS, http://www.abettersign.com