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Workbench Challenge

65K views 164 replies 59 participants last post by  BentheViking 
#1 ·
Best bang for the buck

I have just arrived back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.

It is really a challenge for myself but if anyone wants to take it up and give me a run for it you are absolutely welcome. With luck the outcome will be a cheap, easy to build, excellent bench that even a beginner with a low budget can tackle.

The rules I'm using for myself are:

1) Cost........ I want to be honest about the cost so all material will be accounted for as well as the cost of the tools that the builder would have to acquire to build it. Additionally, I will stay away from "good deals" I was lucky enough to come upon and bits of hardware that I "just happened to have", the thinking being that at my finished cost, anyone could do it, lucky or not.

2) Function...This is going to be my bench and I expect it to be full function (although small) and be capable of all the clamping and supporting roles that I ask of my bench at home.

3) Simple Construction.. I want this to be a bench that a relative beginner with a few tools can feel confident to build.

4) Flexible Design..... My bench must fit in a small shop but that is not the case for everyone. The design has to be easy to scale up or down.

5) Accessible Materials.. All materials will be common readily accessible BORG quality stuff.

When I'm done I will post a full Sketchup and anyone who likes the idea can have full free access to both it and my help.

So here's my starting point.
It is two sheets of so-so 3/4" plywood off the top of the pile at HD, some glue and about all the tools I plan to use. I will likely have to add a few tools and parts later but I think the basic bench can be built from these.
The vices will probably involve a little solid wood but I may even try to get them from PW.

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Table


I call the one I have at home The V8 Workbench after it's vertical 8 degree wedge vices. This smaller clone I have dubbed The short Block V8.

Thanks for looking in .........and wish me luck….... :)

Paul
 

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#27 ·
Best bang for the buck

I have just arrived back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.

It is really a challenge for myself but if anyone wants to take it up and give me a run for it you are absolutely welcome. With luck the outcome will be a cheap, easy to build, excellent bench that even a beginner with a low budget can tackle.

The rules I'm using for myself are:

1) Cost........ I want to be honest about the cost so all material will be accounted for as well as the cost of the tools that the builder would have to acquire to build it. Additionally, I will stay away from "good deals" I was lucky enough to come upon and bits of hardware that I "just happened to have", the thinking being that at my finished cost, anyone could do it, lucky or not.

2) Function...This is going to be my bench and I expect it to be full function (although small) and be capable of all the clamping and supporting roles that I ask of my bench at home.

3) Simple Construction.. I want this to be a bench that a relative beginner with a few tools can feel confident to build.

4) Flexible Design..... My bench must fit in a small shop but that is not the case for everyone. The design has to be easy to scale up or down.

5) Accessible Materials.. All materials will be common readily accessible BORG quality stuff.

When I'm done I will post a full Sketchup and anyone who likes the idea can have full free access to both it and my help.

So here's my starting point.
It is two sheets of so-so 3/4" plywood off the top of the pile at HD, some glue and about all the tools I plan to use. I will likely have to add a few tools and parts later but I think the basic bench can be built from these.
The vices will probably involve a little solid wood but I may even try to get them from PW.

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Table


I call the one I have at home The V8 Workbench after it's vertical 8 degree wedge vices. This smaller clone I have dubbed The short Block V8.

Thanks for looking in .........and wish me luck….... :)

Paul
Watching with interest Paul. Good luck!
 

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#28 ·
Best bang for the buck

I have just arrived back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.

It is really a challenge for myself but if anyone wants to take it up and give me a run for it you are absolutely welcome. With luck the outcome will be a cheap, easy to build, excellent bench that even a beginner with a low budget can tackle.

The rules I'm using for myself are:

1) Cost........ I want to be honest about the cost so all material will be accounted for as well as the cost of the tools that the builder would have to acquire to build it. Additionally, I will stay away from "good deals" I was lucky enough to come upon and bits of hardware that I "just happened to have", the thinking being that at my finished cost, anyone could do it, lucky or not.

2) Function...This is going to be my bench and I expect it to be full function (although small) and be capable of all the clamping and supporting roles that I ask of my bench at home.

3) Simple Construction.. I want this to be a bench that a relative beginner with a few tools can feel confident to build.

4) Flexible Design..... My bench must fit in a small shop but that is not the case for everyone. The design has to be easy to scale up or down.

5) Accessible Materials.. All materials will be common readily accessible BORG quality stuff.

When I'm done I will post a full Sketchup and anyone who likes the idea can have full free access to both it and my help.

So here's my starting point.
It is two sheets of so-so 3/4" plywood off the top of the pile at HD, some glue and about all the tools I plan to use. I will likely have to add a few tools and parts later but I think the basic bench can be built from these.
The vices will probably involve a little solid wood but I may even try to get them from PW.

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Table


I call the one I have at home The V8 Workbench after it's vertical 8 degree wedge vices. This smaller clone I have dubbed The short Block V8.

Thanks for looking in .........and wish me luck….... :)

Paul
You got me interested. I am attracted to the goal you set for yourself. I know you will come up with another outstanding design. You don't need luck, but, good luck. Best wishes.
 

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#29 ·
Best bang for the buck

I have just arrived back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.

It is really a challenge for myself but if anyone wants to take it up and give me a run for it you are absolutely welcome. With luck the outcome will be a cheap, easy to build, excellent bench that even a beginner with a low budget can tackle.

The rules I'm using for myself are:

1) Cost........ I want to be honest about the cost so all material will be accounted for as well as the cost of the tools that the builder would have to acquire to build it. Additionally, I will stay away from "good deals" I was lucky enough to come upon and bits of hardware that I "just happened to have", the thinking being that at my finished cost, anyone could do it, lucky or not.

2) Function...This is going to be my bench and I expect it to be full function (although small) and be capable of all the clamping and supporting roles that I ask of my bench at home.

3) Simple Construction.. I want this to be a bench that a relative beginner with a few tools can feel confident to build.

4) Flexible Design..... My bench must fit in a small shop but that is not the case for everyone. The design has to be easy to scale up or down.

5) Accessible Materials.. All materials will be common readily accessible BORG quality stuff.

When I'm done I will post a full Sketchup and anyone who likes the idea can have full free access to both it and my help.

So here's my starting point.
It is two sheets of so-so 3/4" plywood off the top of the pile at HD, some glue and about all the tools I plan to use. I will likely have to add a few tools and parts later but I think the basic bench can be built from these.
The vices will probably involve a little solid wood but I may even try to get them from PW.

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Table


I call the one I have at home The V8 Workbench after it's vertical 8 degree wedge vices. This smaller clone I have dubbed The short Block V8.

Thanks for looking in .........and wish me luck….... :)

Paul
Good luck Paul, This should be an interesting blog. Even if I don't need another bench I am curious to see what you come up with. I just wish I could move to Arizona for the winters, the cold and lake effect snow along Lake Erie are getting tiring.
 

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#30 ·
Best bang for the buck

I have just arrived back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.

It is really a challenge for myself but if anyone wants to take it up and give me a run for it you are absolutely welcome. With luck the outcome will be a cheap, easy to build, excellent bench that even a beginner with a low budget can tackle.

The rules I'm using for myself are:

1) Cost........ I want to be honest about the cost so all material will be accounted for as well as the cost of the tools that the builder would have to acquire to build it. Additionally, I will stay away from "good deals" I was lucky enough to come upon and bits of hardware that I "just happened to have", the thinking being that at my finished cost, anyone could do it, lucky or not.

2) Function...This is going to be my bench and I expect it to be full function (although small) and be capable of all the clamping and supporting roles that I ask of my bench at home.

3) Simple Construction.. I want this to be a bench that a relative beginner with a few tools can feel confident to build.

4) Flexible Design..... My bench must fit in a small shop but that is not the case for everyone. The design has to be easy to scale up or down.

5) Accessible Materials.. All materials will be common readily accessible BORG quality stuff.

When I'm done I will post a full Sketchup and anyone who likes the idea can have full free access to both it and my help.

So here's my starting point.
It is two sheets of so-so 3/4" plywood off the top of the pile at HD, some glue and about all the tools I plan to use. I will likely have to add a few tools and parts later but I think the basic bench can be built from these.
The vices will probably involve a little solid wood but I may even try to get them from PW.

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Table


I call the one I have at home The V8 Workbench after it's vertical 8 degree wedge vices. This smaller clone I have dubbed The short Block V8.

Thanks for looking in .........and wish me luck….... :)

Paul
I must follow this.
 

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#31 ·
Best bang for the buck

I have just arrived back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.

It is really a challenge for myself but if anyone wants to take it up and give me a run for it you are absolutely welcome. With luck the outcome will be a cheap, easy to build, excellent bench that even a beginner with a low budget can tackle.

The rules I'm using for myself are:

1) Cost........ I want to be honest about the cost so all material will be accounted for as well as the cost of the tools that the builder would have to acquire to build it. Additionally, I will stay away from "good deals" I was lucky enough to come upon and bits of hardware that I "just happened to have", the thinking being that at my finished cost, anyone could do it, lucky or not.

2) Function...This is going to be my bench and I expect it to be full function (although small) and be capable of all the clamping and supporting roles that I ask of my bench at home.

3) Simple Construction.. I want this to be a bench that a relative beginner with a few tools can feel confident to build.

4) Flexible Design..... My bench must fit in a small shop but that is not the case for everyone. The design has to be easy to scale up or down.

5) Accessible Materials.. All materials will be common readily accessible BORG quality stuff.

When I'm done I will post a full Sketchup and anyone who likes the idea can have full free access to both it and my help.

So here's my starting point.
It is two sheets of so-so 3/4" plywood off the top of the pile at HD, some glue and about all the tools I plan to use. I will likely have to add a few tools and parts later but I think the basic bench can be built from these.
The vices will probably involve a little solid wood but I may even try to get them from PW.

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Table


I call the one I have at home The V8 Workbench after it's vertical 8 degree wedge vices. This smaller clone I have dubbed The short Block V8.

Thanks for looking in .........and wish me luck….... :)

Paul
I'm in!
 

Attachments

#32 ·
Best bang for the buck

I have just arrived back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.

It is really a challenge for myself but if anyone wants to take it up and give me a run for it you are absolutely welcome. With luck the outcome will be a cheap, easy to build, excellent bench that even a beginner with a low budget can tackle.

The rules I'm using for myself are:

1) Cost........ I want to be honest about the cost so all material will be accounted for as well as the cost of the tools that the builder would have to acquire to build it. Additionally, I will stay away from "good deals" I was lucky enough to come upon and bits of hardware that I "just happened to have", the thinking being that at my finished cost, anyone could do it, lucky or not.

2) Function...This is going to be my bench and I expect it to be full function (although small) and be capable of all the clamping and supporting roles that I ask of my bench at home.

3) Simple Construction.. I want this to be a bench that a relative beginner with a few tools can feel confident to build.

4) Flexible Design..... My bench must fit in a small shop but that is not the case for everyone. The design has to be easy to scale up or down.

5) Accessible Materials.. All materials will be common readily accessible BORG quality stuff.

When I'm done I will post a full Sketchup and anyone who likes the idea can have full free access to both it and my help.

So here's my starting point.
It is two sheets of so-so 3/4" plywood off the top of the pile at HD, some glue and about all the tools I plan to use. I will likely have to add a few tools and parts later but I think the basic bench can be built from these.
The vices will probably involve a little solid wood but I may even try to get them from PW.

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Table


I call the one I have at home The V8 Workbench after it's vertical 8 degree wedge vices. This smaller clone I have dubbed The short Block V8.

Thanks for looking in .........and wish me luck….... :)

Paul
...I'll start the Popcorn.
 

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#33 ·
Best bang for the buck

I have just arrived back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.

It is really a challenge for myself but if anyone wants to take it up and give me a run for it you are absolutely welcome. With luck the outcome will be a cheap, easy to build, excellent bench that even a beginner with a low budget can tackle.

The rules I'm using for myself are:

1) Cost........ I want to be honest about the cost so all material will be accounted for as well as the cost of the tools that the builder would have to acquire to build it. Additionally, I will stay away from "good deals" I was lucky enough to come upon and bits of hardware that I "just happened to have", the thinking being that at my finished cost, anyone could do it, lucky or not.

2) Function...This is going to be my bench and I expect it to be full function (although small) and be capable of all the clamping and supporting roles that I ask of my bench at home.

3) Simple Construction.. I want this to be a bench that a relative beginner with a few tools can feel confident to build.

4) Flexible Design..... My bench must fit in a small shop but that is not the case for everyone. The design has to be easy to scale up or down.

5) Accessible Materials.. All materials will be common readily accessible BORG quality stuff.

When I'm done I will post a full Sketchup and anyone who likes the idea can have full free access to both it and my help.

So here's my starting point.
It is two sheets of so-so 3/4" plywood off the top of the pile at HD, some glue and about all the tools I plan to use. I will likely have to add a few tools and parts later but I think the basic bench can be built from these.
The vices will probably involve a little solid wood but I may even try to get them from PW.

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Table


I call the one I have at home The V8 Workbench after it's vertical 8 degree wedge vices. This smaller clone I have dubbed The short Block V8.

Thanks for looking in .........and wish me luck….... :)

Paul
The Dumpster bench:
Plane Hand tool Wood Rebate plane Electrical wiring


old 2Ă—10 waterbed frame, rip four legs, and plane off the saw marks. (could be HD 2Ă—10 if you can pick out a good one)
Bicycle handlebar Hand tool Gas Metalworking hand tool Tool


Basic set of tools.
Wood Saw Hardwood Lumber Plank


Notch the ends of a 2Ă—10 for the legs. ( If you get a long enough BORG 2Ă—10, all can be cut from one board)
Wood Automotive exterior Bumper Gas Plant


Notches 4" up from the legs feet. Leftovers from the leg ripping are used as stretchers between the legs. Circ.saw to make the notch, chisel to smooth it up. Glue and screws to attach.
Wood Table Outdoor furniture Gas Outdoor bench


Attach the legs assemblies to the notched ends of the top. Prep aprons and start a tool tray
Wood Outdoor furniture Wood stain Plank Natural material


Aprons can be just 2Ă—4s, I used a 5/4 board for the front. Mine came from a dumpster, couple of BORG 2Ă—4x96" will do. Ends sit in a lap joint, then glue and screws. Attach apron to the bench top with screws. There will be a space for a tool well in the back. Bottom of my tray was just an old footboard piece. Any strip of plywood will do.
Table Wood Hardwood Plank Lumber


Feet: Mine were just a pair of 2Ă—6 scraps, any leftovers from the BORG lumber will do. I added a block of 2x stock on each end. All screwed together. Tool tray sit on a 1Ă—2 cleat. Handplane to level the top.
Table Wood Outdoor furniture Wood stain Outdoor bench


Top is about 5' long, or so. Can be any length, as needful. Top can even be a 2Ă—12, or a few 2Ă—6" glued up. I added a leg vise made from a pipe clamp and a 2Ă—6 oak plank. There is also a Crochet on one end. Now, IF you can find the bench under all of the stuff..
Gas Wood Machine City Market


My cost for mateirials was $7 for a box of 2" long screws. All else was recycled stuff.
 

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#34 ·
Best bang for the buck

I have just arrived back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.

It is really a challenge for myself but if anyone wants to take it up and give me a run for it you are absolutely welcome. With luck the outcome will be a cheap, easy to build, excellent bench that even a beginner with a low budget can tackle.

The rules I'm using for myself are:

1) Cost........ I want to be honest about the cost so all material will be accounted for as well as the cost of the tools that the builder would have to acquire to build it. Additionally, I will stay away from "good deals" I was lucky enough to come upon and bits of hardware that I "just happened to have", the thinking being that at my finished cost, anyone could do it, lucky or not.

2) Function...This is going to be my bench and I expect it to be full function (although small) and be capable of all the clamping and supporting roles that I ask of my bench at home.

3) Simple Construction.. I want this to be a bench that a relative beginner with a few tools can feel confident to build.

4) Flexible Design..... My bench must fit in a small shop but that is not the case for everyone. The design has to be easy to scale up or down.

5) Accessible Materials.. All materials will be common readily accessible BORG quality stuff.

When I'm done I will post a full Sketchup and anyone who likes the idea can have full free access to both it and my help.

So here's my starting point.
It is two sheets of so-so 3/4" plywood off the top of the pile at HD, some glue and about all the tools I plan to use. I will likely have to add a few tools and parts later but I think the basic bench can be built from these.
The vices will probably involve a little solid wood but I may even try to get them from PW.

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Table


I call the one I have at home The V8 Workbench after it's vertical 8 degree wedge vices. This smaller clone I have dubbed The short Block V8.

Thanks for looking in .........and wish me luck….... :)

Paul
Well this will be a interestig tutorial I am sure and I will follow it closely .
I could use another bench as the room I have on the one attached to my table saw/router table is no sufficient at times ,the problem in my case is room .
As for my use it would have to have lots of clamping possibilities like a vise or two and I am interested what you come up with for that .
While I wait I will see where I could possibly store one of these with both cars in the garage .
 

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#35 ·
Best bang for the buck

I have just arrived back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.

It is really a challenge for myself but if anyone wants to take it up and give me a run for it you are absolutely welcome. With luck the outcome will be a cheap, easy to build, excellent bench that even a beginner with a low budget can tackle.

The rules I'm using for myself are:

1) Cost........ I want to be honest about the cost so all material will be accounted for as well as the cost of the tools that the builder would have to acquire to build it. Additionally, I will stay away from "good deals" I was lucky enough to come upon and bits of hardware that I "just happened to have", the thinking being that at my finished cost, anyone could do it, lucky or not.

2) Function...This is going to be my bench and I expect it to be full function (although small) and be capable of all the clamping and supporting roles that I ask of my bench at home.

3) Simple Construction.. I want this to be a bench that a relative beginner with a few tools can feel confident to build.

4) Flexible Design..... My bench must fit in a small shop but that is not the case for everyone. The design has to be easy to scale up or down.

5) Accessible Materials.. All materials will be common readily accessible BORG quality stuff.

When I'm done I will post a full Sketchup and anyone who likes the idea can have full free access to both it and my help.

So here's my starting point.
It is two sheets of so-so 3/4" plywood off the top of the pile at HD, some glue and about all the tools I plan to use. I will likely have to add a few tools and parts later but I think the basic bench can be built from these.
The vices will probably involve a little solid wood but I may even try to get them from PW.

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Table


I call the one I have at home The V8 Workbench after it's vertical 8 degree wedge vices. This smaller clone I have dubbed The short Block V8.

Thanks for looking in .........and wish me luck….... :)

Paul
bandit571

NICE… A quick n dirty fantastic lil bench!

Couldn't quite see how the leg vise worked…

Great thinking!
 

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#36 ·
Best bang for the buck

I have just arrived back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.

It is really a challenge for myself but if anyone wants to take it up and give me a run for it you are absolutely welcome. With luck the outcome will be a cheap, easy to build, excellent bench that even a beginner with a low budget can tackle.

The rules I'm using for myself are:

1) Cost........ I want to be honest about the cost so all material will be accounted for as well as the cost of the tools that the builder would have to acquire to build it. Additionally, I will stay away from "good deals" I was lucky enough to come upon and bits of hardware that I "just happened to have", the thinking being that at my finished cost, anyone could do it, lucky or not.

2) Function...This is going to be my bench and I expect it to be full function (although small) and be capable of all the clamping and supporting roles that I ask of my bench at home.

3) Simple Construction.. I want this to be a bench that a relative beginner with a few tools can feel confident to build.

4) Flexible Design..... My bench must fit in a small shop but that is not the case for everyone. The design has to be easy to scale up or down.

5) Accessible Materials.. All materials will be common readily accessible BORG quality stuff.

When I'm done I will post a full Sketchup and anyone who likes the idea can have full free access to both it and my help.

So here's my starting point.
It is two sheets of so-so 3/4" plywood off the top of the pile at HD, some glue and about all the tools I plan to use. I will likely have to add a few tools and parts later but I think the basic bench can be built from these.
The vices will probably involve a little solid wood but I may even try to get them from PW.

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Table


I call the one I have at home The V8 Workbench after it's vertical 8 degree wedge vices. This smaller clone I have dubbed The short Block V8.

Thanks for looking in .........and wish me luck….... :)

Paul
Leg vise uses a pipe clamp through the leg. The part with the threads is fastened to the movable jaw. The sliding part of the pipe clamp bears against the other side of the leg. I can rough adjust to size by sliding things out, then latching the sliding half in place. Tighten the vise by turning the screw part.
 

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#37 ·
Best bang for the buck

I have just arrived back in Az for the winter and have decided I need a good workbench. The one I have at home in Canada is great but it's too big for my little carport shop here so I have redesigned it a little and am going to take it on as a challenge to build the"best bang for the buck"workbench.

It is really a challenge for myself but if anyone wants to take it up and give me a run for it you are absolutely welcome. With luck the outcome will be a cheap, easy to build, excellent bench that even a beginner with a low budget can tackle.

The rules I'm using for myself are:

1) Cost........ I want to be honest about the cost so all material will be accounted for as well as the cost of the tools that the builder would have to acquire to build it. Additionally, I will stay away from "good deals" I was lucky enough to come upon and bits of hardware that I "just happened to have", the thinking being that at my finished cost, anyone could do it, lucky or not.

2) Function...This is going to be my bench and I expect it to be full function (although small) and be capable of all the clamping and supporting roles that I ask of my bench at home.

3) Simple Construction.. I want this to be a bench that a relative beginner with a few tools can feel confident to build.

4) Flexible Design..... My bench must fit in a small shop but that is not the case for everyone. The design has to be easy to scale up or down.

5) Accessible Materials.. All materials will be common readily accessible BORG quality stuff.

When I'm done I will post a full Sketchup and anyone who likes the idea can have full free access to both it and my help.

So here's my starting point.
It is two sheets of so-so 3/4" plywood off the top of the pile at HD, some glue and about all the tools I plan to use. I will likely have to add a few tools and parts later but I think the basic bench can be built from these.
The vices will probably involve a little solid wood but I may even try to get them from PW.

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Table


I call the one I have at home The V8 Workbench after it's vertical 8 degree wedge vices. This smaller clone I have dubbed The short Block V8.

Thanks for looking in .........and wish me luck….... :)

Paul
Glad you arrived safely. This will be a great blog…looking forward to watching…
 

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#38 ·
Getting Started and the Plans

I know that I said I would post the Sketchup at the end of the build but after some thought I have decided to post it now even though there may be some changes made during the build. I think it will make the blog easier to follow. If anyone wants to look for mistakes (proof read) feel free, I'd like this to be glitch free when it's done.

I will format the rest of this blog as building instructions and will try to do it to suit beginning woodworkers so please bear with me if you are more experienced.

Here's what I'm building (Click the photo for the Sketchup 3D Warehouse to download.)

"
Product Font Rectangle Screenshot Parallel


I have been having some pack rat problems both in the shop and in my car that have kept me from getting started with this project but they are getting straightened out and I got about an hour and a half in yesterday.
I started with the dog hole strips because they are the trickiest part of the basic bench and it's nice to get them out of the way.

If you look at the SU model, you will see that the two sheets of plywood can be cut at the source to four pieces each and fit in a car. That's great but all the pieces aren't the same so make sure you use the right piece to cut any given parts.

This is the 47 1/2" X 22" piece (upper right part of the lower sheet) and I have laid out the strips that will make the dog hole parts and the filler pieces that go with them. These are pieces K,L,M,N,and P. The 1/4" MDF assembly at the left is a simple jig to make circular saw cutting accurate.

Table Cat Wood Floor Flooring


Here's the jig in action.

Wood Sports equipment Hardwood Saw Gas


... and here is the piece cut off with the parts letter marked as in the SU. Also notice that the dog holes are marked.

Wood Table Wood stain Hardwood Plank


In preparation for routing the dog hole halves, take a quick measurement from the cutting edge of your bit (3/4" core box) to the edge of the router base. This doesn't have to be terribly accurate so a tape is fine.

Wood Office ruler Ruler Measuring instrument Tool


Next clamp a straight edged scrap to the plywood, square to the edge and your router measurement from the nearest side of the groove layout lines.

Wood Window Wood stain Floor Flooring


Now you can set your bit to a depth that will give you half of a 3/4" diameter hole. Do this by grooving two pieces of scrap and putting them together over a 3/4" dowel. Adjust the bit until the hole is round and the dowel is a nice fit. When you know you are set up you can rout the groove. It would be nice to do this in several shallow passes but unless you have a plunge router with an accurate stop it will mean a lot of re-adjusting of the depth for all the holes. Just move slowly and even a cheap bit like this one will do a fine job. If you aren't used to doing this try it on some scrap first . The important thing is to keep pressure on the guide stick so you don't wander.

Pneumatic tool Drill Handheld power drill Wood Drilling


When you are done the first five grooves separate the long strips (K,L) from the short ones (M,N), again using the $1.50 table saw and cut the remaining two grooves in the long strips only.

Wood Table Flooring Gas Composite material


Now you have one long strip with seven hole grooves and one short one with five holes and two spacers (P) that will be cut off. (The cut line for the "P" parts here was changed after these photos to give the last dog hole more beef. The SU reflects the change)

Wood Wood stain Rectangle Plank Hardwood


Now you have to cut the two halves of each piece apart. This takes a little alteration in the technique. As you don't have enough to clamp the jig to, just screw it down on your mark. Use screws long enough to extend into the piece below to stabilize the whole thing for the cut. Of course when making plywood cuts over other plywood, always sight under the cut line to make sure you won't be cutting the piece below. Here it is ll set up nice and stable and clear of the "bench" piece that it is screwed to. (The piece that does appear to be under the cut line is a couple of pieces down and out of the way)

Table Wood Road surface Automotive exterior Rectangle


Here's a dry fit of the two strips. The "P" pieces are not yet cut off.

Wood Flooring Floor Bag Hardwood


That's as far as I got in the time I had but it's a start. I'll try to get some time in over the weekend. It shouldn't take long. (famous last words)

Thanks for looking in,

Paul
 

Attachments

#39 ·
Getting Started and the Plans

I know that I said I would post the Sketchup at the end of the build but after some thought I have decided to post it now even though there may be some changes made during the build. I think it will make the blog easier to follow. If anyone wants to look for mistakes (proof read) feel free, I'd like this to be glitch free when it's done.

I will format the rest of this blog as building instructions and will try to do it to suit beginning woodworkers so please bear with me if you are more experienced.

Here's what I'm building (Click the photo for the Sketchup 3D Warehouse to download.)

"
Product Font Rectangle Screenshot Parallel


I have been having some pack rat problems both in the shop and in my car that have kept me from getting started with this project but they are getting straightened out and I got about an hour and a half in yesterday.
I started with the dog hole strips because they are the trickiest part of the basic bench and it's nice to get them out of the way.

If you look at the SU model, you will see that the two sheets of plywood can be cut at the source to four pieces each and fit in a car. That's great but all the pieces aren't the same so make sure you use the right piece to cut any given parts.

This is the 47 1/2" X 22" piece (upper right part of the lower sheet) and I have laid out the strips that will make the dog hole parts and the filler pieces that go with them. These are pieces K,L,M,N,and P. The 1/4" MDF assembly at the left is a simple jig to make circular saw cutting accurate.

Table Cat Wood Floor Flooring


Here's the jig in action.

Wood Sports equipment Hardwood Saw Gas


... and here is the piece cut off with the parts letter marked as in the SU. Also notice that the dog holes are marked.

Wood Table Wood stain Hardwood Plank


In preparation for routing the dog hole halves, take a quick measurement from the cutting edge of your bit (3/4" core box) to the edge of the router base. This doesn't have to be terribly accurate so a tape is fine.

Wood Office ruler Ruler Measuring instrument Tool


Next clamp a straight edged scrap to the plywood, square to the edge and your router measurement from the nearest side of the groove layout lines.

Wood Window Wood stain Floor Flooring


Now you can set your bit to a depth that will give you half of a 3/4" diameter hole. Do this by grooving two pieces of scrap and putting them together over a 3/4" dowel. Adjust the bit until the hole is round and the dowel is a nice fit. When you know you are set up you can rout the groove. It would be nice to do this in several shallow passes but unless you have a plunge router with an accurate stop it will mean a lot of re-adjusting of the depth for all the holes. Just move slowly and even a cheap bit like this one will do a fine job. If you aren't used to doing this try it on some scrap first . The important thing is to keep pressure on the guide stick so you don't wander.

Pneumatic tool Drill Handheld power drill Wood Drilling


When you are done the first five grooves separate the long strips (K,L) from the short ones (M,N), again using the $1.50 table saw and cut the remaining two grooves in the long strips only.

Wood Table Flooring Gas Composite material


Now you have one long strip with seven hole grooves and one short one with five holes and two spacers (P) that will be cut off. (The cut line for the "P" parts here was changed after these photos to give the last dog hole more beef. The SU reflects the change)

Wood Wood stain Rectangle Plank Hardwood


Now you have to cut the two halves of each piece apart. This takes a little alteration in the technique. As you don't have enough to clamp the jig to, just screw it down on your mark. Use screws long enough to extend into the piece below to stabilize the whole thing for the cut. Of course when making plywood cuts over other plywood, always sight under the cut line to make sure you won't be cutting the piece below. Here it is ll set up nice and stable and clear of the "bench" piece that it is screwed to. (The piece that does appear to be under the cut line is a couple of pieces down and out of the way)

Table Wood Road surface Automotive exterior Rectangle


Here's a dry fit of the two strips. The "P" pieces are not yet cut off.

Wood Flooring Floor Bag Hardwood


That's as far as I got in the time I had but it's a start. I'll try to get some time in over the weekend. It shouldn't take long. (famous last words)

Thanks for looking in,

Paul
This is really interesting.
 

Attachments

#55 ·
Ripping the Pieces Without a Tablesaw

Warning, entry level instructions.

Additional note Of course if you have a table saw, ..... use it and disregard this segment.

When I left off I had dry fitted the dog hole logs so next up before we start all the ripping we should glue them up. First of course you have to cut off the pieces P from the ends of the short dog hole strips M and N.
The best way to make sure the holes line up is to put some dowels or whatever in a couple of the holes while you glue and screw them. I happened to have the Gramercy holdfasts that I'm going to use in the bench on hand so no better line up jigs. I'm using screws instead of clamps because I'm trying to keep the tool list as small and affordable as possible. I do have better tools for these jobs you know.

I think most will recognize the clamps that I am using as the famous $2.00 HF plastic bar clamps. I love them. Yes, they break sometimes but I just buy a few extras.

Saw Wood Flooring Gas Pneumatic tool


Now on to ripping all that plywood with the $1.50 table saw. Because of the sequence of grooving and separating and more grooving in the dog hole strips, I cut to lines spaced about the kerf of my skilsaw blade.
For a lot of strips that kind of layout is not only time consuming but prone to inaccuracy so here's the way I cut these strips to be identical.

There are lots of 3 1/2" strips so I'll use them as an example. First , lay out a mark 3 1/2" from a factory edge and then make a little nick freehand with the skilsaw just on the line but outside it. Line a piece of scrap up with the outside of the kerf and mark a square line on it at the edge of the sheet.

Brown Handwriting Rectangle Wood Beige


Glue another little piece of scrap on exactly at the line.

Brown Handwriting Rectangle Wood Beige


You now have a guide to setup as many identical 3 1/2" cuts as you want. Just butt the cutting jig against it at each end and clamp. Check both ends once more and then cut off the strip. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. .... You get it.

Wood Rectangle Handwriting Flooring Floor


This is another way that works if you only have a few but if you have more and you're like me you will inadvertently use the square for something in the middle of it all and have to try to get it back exactly where it was again.
Revolver Wood Hand tool Wood stain Hardwood


When you get too close to the edge for clamping, use a screw.

Pneumatic tool Hand tool Handheld power drill Drill Hammer drill


When you get really close use a screw and a piece of scrap to support the cutting jig. Don't worry if the screw mushrooms the MDF a little. This isn't the guide line, it's the cut line. What you do have to watch is that the screw itself doesn't infringe on the line.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Brick Lumber


Make a cut list or print out the sheet from the SU and strike off the pieces cut.

Brown Handwriting Rectangle Font Wood


When you finish one of the sheet quarters, lay out the pieces like the plan to check it.

Wood Wood stain Flooring Floor Table


I didn't take any photos of the cross cutting as I was doing it freehand to the lines and didn't have a hand for the camera. It's pretty easy that way but by all means, make a little guide if you don't feel confident freehand.

So now almost all the pieces are cut, except for the curved ones. Next up will be cutting the notches for the half laps and maybe some assembly.

Thanks for looking in

Paul
 

Attachments

#56 ·
Ripping the Pieces Without a Tablesaw

Warning, entry level instructions.

Additional note Of course if you have a table saw, ..... use it and disregard this segment.

When I left off I had dry fitted the dog hole logs so next up before we start all the ripping we should glue them up. First of course you have to cut off the pieces P from the ends of the short dog hole strips M and N.
The best way to make sure the holes line up is to put some dowels or whatever in a couple of the holes while you glue and screw them. I happened to have the Gramercy holdfasts that I'm going to use in the bench on hand so no better line up jigs. I'm using screws instead of clamps because I'm trying to keep the tool list as small and affordable as possible. I do have better tools for these jobs you know.

I think most will recognize the clamps that I am using as the famous $2.00 HF plastic bar clamps. I love them. Yes, they break sometimes but I just buy a few extras.

Saw Wood Flooring Gas Pneumatic tool


Now on to ripping all that plywood with the $1.50 table saw. Because of the sequence of grooving and separating and more grooving in the dog hole strips, I cut to lines spaced about the kerf of my skilsaw blade.
For a lot of strips that kind of layout is not only time consuming but prone to inaccuracy so here's the way I cut these strips to be identical.

There are lots of 3 1/2" strips so I'll use them as an example. First , lay out a mark 3 1/2" from a factory edge and then make a little nick freehand with the skilsaw just on the line but outside it. Line a piece of scrap up with the outside of the kerf and mark a square line on it at the edge of the sheet.

Brown Handwriting Rectangle Wood Beige


Glue another little piece of scrap on exactly at the line.

Brown Handwriting Rectangle Wood Beige


You now have a guide to setup as many identical 3 1/2" cuts as you want. Just butt the cutting jig against it at each end and clamp. Check both ends once more and then cut off the strip. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. .... You get it.

Wood Rectangle Handwriting Flooring Floor


This is another way that works if you only have a few but if you have more and you're like me you will inadvertently use the square for something in the middle of it all and have to try to get it back exactly where it was again.
Revolver Wood Hand tool Wood stain Hardwood


When you get too close to the edge for clamping, use a screw.

Pneumatic tool Hand tool Handheld power drill Drill Hammer drill


When you get really close use a screw and a piece of scrap to support the cutting jig. Don't worry if the screw mushrooms the MDF a little. This isn't the guide line, it's the cut line. What you do have to watch is that the screw itself doesn't infringe on the line.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Brick Lumber


Make a cut list or print out the sheet from the SU and strike off the pieces cut.

Brown Handwriting Rectangle Font Wood


When you finish one of the sheet quarters, lay out the pieces like the plan to check it.

Wood Wood stain Flooring Floor Table


I didn't take any photos of the cross cutting as I was doing it freehand to the lines and didn't have a hand for the camera. It's pretty easy that way but by all means, make a little guide if you don't feel confident freehand.

So now almost all the pieces are cut, except for the curved ones. Next up will be cutting the notches for the half laps and maybe some assembly.

Thanks for looking in

Paul
Hi Paul
This is a interesting way of building and kind of reminds me of working on site with limited tools available.
Make thinks work with what you have with you and get it done but don't sacrifice quality .
This looks good and ingenious .
I will stay tuned
Thanks for your time going into this and it is much appreciated !
 

Attachments

#62 ·
Fitting "from the work" and cutting the notches

While I have given quite accurate dimensions in the plans, I would never recommend that you take any measurements as the final word in getting good fits. I always fit "from the work" using the measurements as a guide. I will explain this as we get into this segment.

To begin the half-lapping of the bench top framing, lay out the long pieces and clamp them as a unit. Then mark the half-lap notches on them. Mark one side of the notch from the dimensions but mark the second with a piece of your plywood as a spacer. The plywood is not actually 3/4" and you want a snug fit.

Saw Wood Handheld power drill Abrasive saw Drill


Here the first notch has been cut and a piece of plywood is fitted in it to lock the pieces together in alignment while the rest are cut. The next notch has had its edge cuts made, just inside the lines.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Water Plank


Then you make a few more cuts between the first two and pry the scrap out with a chisel. Follow this up by "planing" the bottom of the notch by moving the saw from side to side as you advance it through the cut. It is easier than it sounds.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Tool


Wood Wood stain Plank Nail Gas


This is what your fit should look like.

Wood Gas Hardwood Wood stain Audio equipment


Here all the notches are cut.

Wood Composite material Table Hammered dulcimer Creative arts


Now begin laying out the cross pieces. There are some notches that are double width for the dog hole logs. Be sure to mark them with two pieces of plywood as a marking spacer.

Wood Wall Electrical wiring Building Bicycle handlebar


Wood Floor Wood stain Hardwood Composite material


Parts "R" and "O" now get a spacer, "P" on each side and then another notched in strip. Again, fit from the work. If you use measurements here the tiny differences in thickness will start to add up so use a piece of scrap to make the marks and then transfer those marks to cut the corresponding notches in part"O".

Wood Window Building Flooring Floor


Wood Wood stain Font Plank Hardwood


Wood Table Wood stain Plank Hardwood


With all these parts dry fitted, screw the corners together with some slim 2" screws. They won't split the plywood and will hold well if you drill for them first.

Wood Natural material Wood stain Rectangle Plank


Set this assembly aside and we will move on to the top and bottom of the torsion box table top.

Wood Shelving Fixture Hardwood Wood stain


...........but that will have to wait. I'm golfing tomorrow.

Thanks for looking in.

Paul
 

Attachments

#63 ·
Fitting "from the work" and cutting the notches

While I have given quite accurate dimensions in the plans, I would never recommend that you take any measurements as the final word in getting good fits. I always fit "from the work" using the measurements as a guide. I will explain this as we get into this segment.

To begin the half-lapping of the bench top framing, lay out the long pieces and clamp them as a unit. Then mark the half-lap notches on them. Mark one side of the notch from the dimensions but mark the second with a piece of your plywood as a spacer. The plywood is not actually 3/4" and you want a snug fit.

Saw Wood Handheld power drill Abrasive saw Drill


Here the first notch has been cut and a piece of plywood is fitted in it to lock the pieces together in alignment while the rest are cut. The next notch has had its edge cuts made, just inside the lines.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Water Plank


Then you make a few more cuts between the first two and pry the scrap out with a chisel. Follow this up by "planing" the bottom of the notch by moving the saw from side to side as you advance it through the cut. It is easier than it sounds.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Tool


Wood Wood stain Plank Nail Gas


This is what your fit should look like.

Wood Gas Hardwood Wood stain Audio equipment


Here all the notches are cut.

Wood Composite material Table Hammered dulcimer Creative arts


Now begin laying out the cross pieces. There are some notches that are double width for the dog hole logs. Be sure to mark them with two pieces of plywood as a marking spacer.

Wood Wall Electrical wiring Building Bicycle handlebar


Wood Floor Wood stain Hardwood Composite material


Parts "R" and "O" now get a spacer, "P" on each side and then another notched in strip. Again, fit from the work. If you use measurements here the tiny differences in thickness will start to add up so use a piece of scrap to make the marks and then transfer those marks to cut the corresponding notches in part"O".

Wood Window Building Flooring Floor


Wood Wood stain Font Plank Hardwood


Wood Table Wood stain Plank Hardwood


With all these parts dry fitted, screw the corners together with some slim 2" screws. They won't split the plywood and will hold well if you drill for them first.

Wood Natural material Wood stain Rectangle Plank


Set this assembly aside and we will move on to the top and bottom of the torsion box table top.

Wood Shelving Fixture Hardwood Wood stain


...........but that will have to wait. I'm golfing tomorrow.

Thanks for looking in.

Paul
Interesting. How did you bore the holes? Wood auger? Just curious, I've never bored plywood on the edge.
 

Attachments

#73 ·
Assembling the Top

OK, I'm back from golfing and still have some photos left from yesterday. When I left off we had the inner framework of the top dry fitted. Now we can move on to the top and bottom sheeting of the torsion box.
Screw the top sheet in position, forcing the frame into square if necessary. Turn it over and then use a forstner or speedbore bit to mark the dog holes in it using the holes in the framework as a guide..

Wood Floor Hardwood Wood stain Flooring


Next, mark the area where the wagon vice will go.

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Gas Wood stain


Then flip the whole thing over and screw the bottom on.

Table Wood Desk Rectangle Tableware


After removing the top repeat the marking of the holes and wagon vice location on the bottom sheet.

Wood Gas Cooking Kettle Metal


Wood Plank Hardwood Wood stain Composite material


Now you can remove the framing and finish the holes in the top and bottom sheets.

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Table


I like to feel for the tip of the bit coming through and stop the hole. Then I finish it from the top for a cleaner hole with less chip out. If you don't feel good about doing that, don't. Just have a piece of scrap underneath the hole to minimize tearout.

Wood Writing implement Office supplies Flooring Landscape


I finished the holes with a little corner round because it is plywood and loves to splinter. If it were solid wood I wouldn't do it.

Table Wood Rectangle Flooring Composite material


That's it for the top for now. We will get back to it after the legs are assembled. With a little luck that will happen tomorrow.

Thanks for looking in.

Paul
 

Attachments

#74 ·
Assembling the Top

OK, I'm back from golfing and still have some photos left from yesterday. When I left off we had the inner framework of the top dry fitted. Now we can move on to the top and bottom sheeting of the torsion box.
Screw the top sheet in position, forcing the frame into square if necessary. Turn it over and then use a forstner or speedbore bit to mark the dog holes in it using the holes in the framework as a guide..

Wood Floor Hardwood Wood stain Flooring


Next, mark the area where the wagon vice will go.

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Gas Wood stain


Then flip the whole thing over and screw the bottom on.

Table Wood Desk Rectangle Tableware


After removing the top repeat the marking of the holes and wagon vice location on the bottom sheet.

Wood Gas Cooking Kettle Metal


Wood Plank Hardwood Wood stain Composite material


Now you can remove the framing and finish the holes in the top and bottom sheets.

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Table


I like to feel for the tip of the bit coming through and stop the hole. Then I finish it from the top for a cleaner hole with less chip out. If you don't feel good about doing that, don't. Just have a piece of scrap underneath the hole to minimize tearout.

Wood Writing implement Office supplies Flooring Landscape


I finished the holes with a little corner round because it is plywood and loves to splinter. If it were solid wood I wouldn't do it.

Table Wood Rectangle Flooring Composite material


That's it for the top for now. We will get back to it after the legs are assembled. With a little luck that will happen tomorrow.

Thanks for looking in.

Paul
Nice job…I wish I would have had this kind of tutorial when I built my first bench…or even knew about torsion boxes!
 

Attachments

#83 ·
Assembling the Legs

This one will be quite long but mostly photos because I want to make the process as simple to follow as I can.

To start off here are two ways to assemble the legs:

For the vice side I assembled the four sections first and then slipped the resulting finger joints together. Before this can be done there is one more operation to do and that is the cutting of the two rebates that will form the hole for he lower leg vice brace. Do these the same way as you cut the notches in the top framing and then assemble them face to face like this.

Wood Automotive tire Flooring Automotive exterior Font


Wood Wood stain Office ruler Plank Hardwood


Continue to dry-assemble the leg as per the sketchup using just a few screws until the unit is together. Then, unless you are a lot better than me with a skilsaw, you will have a little clean up to do with a plane before glue-up. Once it is all cleaned up, disassemble it and re-assemble it with glue using the screw holes as a guide to accurately relocating the pieces.

Wood Gas Engineering Machine Hardwood


Next assemble the top, bottom and back leg components in a similar fashion. If you want to shape the ends of the feet this is the time. I'm using a cheap jig saw to make the curve but just a 45 off the corner would look as good and could be done with the skilsaw. You don't need the expensive circle marking jig, you can use a compass.

Wood Dishware Floor Flooring Fender


Wood Gas Kitchen appliance Flooring Sports equipment


Once you have one cut, use it to mark the others, including the twelve parts "I".

Wood Wood stain Gas Flooring Hardwood


Wood Rectangle Fluid Line Material property


Dry fit the whole unit to check for square and look for any problems. With luck, you won't find any.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Lumber Machine


Now you can slip the pieces apart, coat the insides of the mortises with glue and permanently assemble them with a couple of screws on each corner, both sides.

Wood Hood Gas Table Hardwood


Wood Table Wood stain Hardwood Flooring


The other way you can assemble the legs is by laying up layer over layer all at once. They both work and are equally messy. First lay out one layer of the whole unit.

Wood Hardwood Wood stain Table Lumber


Then lay out the second, overlapping layer. Align them carefully and fasten with a few screws. Don't put any screws in the areas where the verticals intersect the horizontals.

Wood Table Hardwood Wood stain Lumber


Continue with this until the unit is built up. Then slip it apart at the corners and clean up the edges with a plane.

Wood Gas Hardwood Composite material Machine


Plane Rebate plane Wood Bumper Saw


Now mark all the pieces in the top layer "L1", remove them and set them aside. Mark the next layer's pieces "L2" and set them on top of the first. Mark "L3" and do the same. You don't have to mark "L4" but I did for clarity.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor Font


Wood Watch Composite material Font Gas


Re-assemble piece by piece by first running the screws in just through the inner surface and then, after applying glue, use the screw tips to locate the piece before screwing it down tight. Once this is done you can add a few screws to get good pressure if you like. This may seem like a long way around but screwing these pieces together dry really makes alignment easier than with a layer of glue (ball bearings) in between.

Brown Table Wood Rectangle Wood stain


Wood Rectangle Automotive exterior Table Bumper


As you glue up the layers, you will need to screw the corners together. Use an alternating pattern on adjacent layers to avoid hitting the screws in the layer below. I used top right / bottom left and then top left / bottom right on the next layer, then back to the first orientation.

Wood Office supplies Ruler Table Hand tool


When the dust settles you should have two leg assemblies that look like this and will support your truck.

Wood Gas Font Hardwood Metal


That it for today. Sorry to be so long winded but this is supposed to be a beginner build-able bench and the details might make a difference.

Tomorrow the final assembly of the basic plywood bench. After that we will build the vices and the finish trim.

Here's a peek.

Table Wood Rectangle Wood stain Outdoor table


Thanks for looking in

Paul
 

Attachments

#84 ·
Assembling the Legs

This one will be quite long but mostly photos because I want to make the process as simple to follow as I can.

To start off here are two ways to assemble the legs:

For the vice side I assembled the four sections first and then slipped the resulting finger joints together. Before this can be done there is one more operation to do and that is the cutting of the two rebates that will form the hole for he lower leg vice brace. Do these the same way as you cut the notches in the top framing and then assemble them face to face like this.

Wood Automotive tire Flooring Automotive exterior Font


Wood Wood stain Office ruler Plank Hardwood


Continue to dry-assemble the leg as per the sketchup using just a few screws until the unit is together. Then, unless you are a lot better than me with a skilsaw, you will have a little clean up to do with a plane before glue-up. Once it is all cleaned up, disassemble it and re-assemble it with glue using the screw holes as a guide to accurately relocating the pieces.

Wood Gas Engineering Machine Hardwood


Next assemble the top, bottom and back leg components in a similar fashion. If you want to shape the ends of the feet this is the time. I'm using a cheap jig saw to make the curve but just a 45 off the corner would look as good and could be done with the skilsaw. You don't need the expensive circle marking jig, you can use a compass.

Wood Dishware Floor Flooring Fender


Wood Gas Kitchen appliance Flooring Sports equipment


Once you have one cut, use it to mark the others, including the twelve parts "I".

Wood Wood stain Gas Flooring Hardwood


Wood Rectangle Fluid Line Material property


Dry fit the whole unit to check for square and look for any problems. With luck, you won't find any.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Lumber Machine


Now you can slip the pieces apart, coat the insides of the mortises with glue and permanently assemble them with a couple of screws on each corner, both sides.

Wood Hood Gas Table Hardwood


Wood Table Wood stain Hardwood Flooring


The other way you can assemble the legs is by laying up layer over layer all at once. They both work and are equally messy. First lay out one layer of the whole unit.

Wood Hardwood Wood stain Table Lumber


Then lay out the second, overlapping layer. Align them carefully and fasten with a few screws. Don't put any screws in the areas where the verticals intersect the horizontals.

Wood Table Hardwood Wood stain Lumber


Continue with this until the unit is built up. Then slip it apart at the corners and clean up the edges with a plane.

Wood Gas Hardwood Composite material Machine


Plane Rebate plane Wood Bumper Saw


Now mark all the pieces in the top layer "L1", remove them and set them aside. Mark the next layer's pieces "L2" and set them on top of the first. Mark "L3" and do the same. You don't have to mark "L4" but I did for clarity.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor Font


Wood Watch Composite material Font Gas


Re-assemble piece by piece by first running the screws in just through the inner surface and then, after applying glue, use the screw tips to locate the piece before screwing it down tight. Once this is done you can add a few screws to get good pressure if you like. This may seem like a long way around but screwing these pieces together dry really makes alignment easier than with a layer of glue (ball bearings) in between.

Brown Table Wood Rectangle Wood stain


Wood Rectangle Automotive exterior Table Bumper


As you glue up the layers, you will need to screw the corners together. Use an alternating pattern on adjacent layers to avoid hitting the screws in the layer below. I used top right / bottom left and then top left / bottom right on the next layer, then back to the first orientation.

Wood Office supplies Ruler Table Hand tool


When the dust settles you should have two leg assemblies that look like this and will support your truck.

Wood Gas Font Hardwood Metal


That it for today. Sorry to be so long winded but this is supposed to be a beginner build-able bench and the details might make a difference.

Tomorrow the final assembly of the basic plywood bench. After that we will build the vices and the finish trim.

Here's a peek.

Table Wood Rectangle Wood stain Outdoor table


Thanks for looking in

Paul
Wow Paul this is really coming along nicely! I did notice the titebond glue and not hot hide glue or Old Brown Glue but that's OK I won't say nothing if you don't :)
 

Attachments

#101 ·
Gluing up all those dry fits.

Here we go with another photo heavy blog segment. I've explained the reason for all the detail before so let's just get into today's work.

With the leg assemblies all glued up, the next job is to tie them together into a rigid, rack free unit. This involves parts AC, AD, and AE in the plans. Start by marking the width of the lower stretcher cover from the work. This will be close to the dimension in the plans but almost certainly won't be exact so mark it from the work.

Wood Floor Flooring Natural material Composite material


Next take a measurement from the work for the overall length with the stretchers (AE) in place.

Window Wood Beam House Stairs


Mark and cut the appropriate notches for the posts and dry assemble with #8Ă—2" screws. Remember that the plywood won't split if you drill for them. Check that the stretchers are a tight fit between the leg bases. This is the critical fit that makes the bench rigid.

Plant Wood Wood stain Natural material Outdoor furniture


Repeat the process for the top, again insuring that the stretchers are tight between the top leg beams.

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Wood stain


Mark the spot where the stretcher cover meets the leg …..

Table Wood Wood stain Floor Flooring


... and corner round the edges except that bit in way of the leg.

Table Wood Natural material Wood stain Plank


Spread the stretchers with glue, locate the screws in their old holes and assemble the stretcher box unit.

Wood Table Rectangle Hardwood Flooring


Check one more time that the fit is still tight and glue the unit in place.

Wood Hardwood Wood stain Plank Composite material


When you have repeated the process for the top box, you should have a rigid little unit that looks like this.

Wood Rectangle Art Hardwood Wood stain


Now get out the bottom of the torsion box top and let's cut the wagon vice hole. This involves drawing a hole only 2 1/4" wide centered inside the traced line that we made when we had it assembled. When you have multiple lines, always put ticks on the one you want to cut.

Brown Wood Wood stain Trunk Rectangle


I chose to cut the sides of this hole by hinging the skilsaw down into the line as it gives a cleaner, straighter cut than the jig saw. If you aren't comfortable with this don't do it. Use the jig saw.

Abrasive saw Saw Cold saw Circular saw Machine tool


You have to use the jig saw for the ends anyway. When making cuts like this with a jig saw you might want to cut a little inside the line and clean it up later with a router and a guide. Jig saw blades like to wander on the bottom side of the cut. I'll cover this later.

Wood Office ruler Hardwood Wood stain Gas


Now, with the outer frame screwed and glued together and the long dog hole log installed, spread glue and screw down the bottom. (shown upside down of course)

Wood Outdoor furniture Wood stain Natural material Hardwood


This is a photo taken later, when I was assembling the top but I'm inserting it here to illustrate a point that you should always consider when building with plywood that isn't flat. You can make it work for you. I should have mentioned this before but it's something I do without even thinking about it, like checking for grain direction. In the case of these pieces, I laid them out so that the cup was up. That means that when you screw down the edges, the center is under pressure …. self clamping! There is no need to put screws in the dog strip area. Of course you can if you want or if the cup is the other way.

Table Wood Wood stain Floor Plank


Next, glue up and install the short dog hole log and clamp in place. The holdfast is just there for alignment, not holding anything.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Varnish


Then add parts "P" and "U" working quickly.

Wood Tool Hand tool Gas Hardwood


Now add the cross members and clamp everything. (Love those $2 clamps)

Wood Tool Hardwood Plank Composite material


Now, just to be accurate, replace the top in it's screw holes and re-trace the wagon vice hole. It is very important that this be as accurate as possible. When removed, as you can see, it is a bit off it's old marks.

Brown Wood Brick Brickwork Wood stain


To avoid confusion, I made tack holes at the corners of the good line and then sanded the lines off. I then redrew only the good line and worked from it to lay out the actual hole to be cut.

Brown Wood Hardwood Wood stain Flooring


Brown Wood Wood stain Floor Flooring


Now you can glue the bottom / framing unit down to the leg assembly with lots of 2" screws. The critical alignment is that the first dog hole on the left should line up with the center of the leg vice and that the plywood box should be flush with the front of the leg vice leg.

Wood Rectangle Material property Gas Tints and shades


With the hole cut out of the top sheet with a jig saw (slightly inside the lines), you can go ahead and glue the top in place and clean up the edges. I had planned to make the facing boards out of hardwood but since there was plywood left over, I cut them out of it and dry assembled them.

Wood Outdoor furniture Natural material Stool Table


So there you have it, two sheets of plywood put to good use. I still have some scraps left over.

There's nothing left but vices and lipstick and we'll get to that tomorrow.

Thanks for looking in.

Paul
 

Attachments

#102 ·
Gluing up all those dry fits.

Here we go with another photo heavy blog segment. I've explained the reason for all the detail before so let's just get into today's work.

With the leg assemblies all glued up, the next job is to tie them together into a rigid, rack free unit. This involves parts AC, AD, and AE in the plans. Start by marking the width of the lower stretcher cover from the work. This will be close to the dimension in the plans but almost certainly won't be exact so mark it from the work.

Wood Floor Flooring Natural material Composite material


Next take a measurement from the work for the overall length with the stretchers (AE) in place.

Window Wood Beam House Stairs


Mark and cut the appropriate notches for the posts and dry assemble with #8Ă—2" screws. Remember that the plywood won't split if you drill for them. Check that the stretchers are a tight fit between the leg bases. This is the critical fit that makes the bench rigid.

Plant Wood Wood stain Natural material Outdoor furniture


Repeat the process for the top, again insuring that the stretchers are tight between the top leg beams.

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Wood stain


Mark the spot where the stretcher cover meets the leg …..

Table Wood Wood stain Floor Flooring


... and corner round the edges except that bit in way of the leg.

Table Wood Natural material Wood stain Plank


Spread the stretchers with glue, locate the screws in their old holes and assemble the stretcher box unit.

Wood Table Rectangle Hardwood Flooring


Check one more time that the fit is still tight and glue the unit in place.

Wood Hardwood Wood stain Plank Composite material


When you have repeated the process for the top box, you should have a rigid little unit that looks like this.

Wood Rectangle Art Hardwood Wood stain


Now get out the bottom of the torsion box top and let's cut the wagon vice hole. This involves drawing a hole only 2 1/4" wide centered inside the traced line that we made when we had it assembled. When you have multiple lines, always put ticks on the one you want to cut.

Brown Wood Wood stain Trunk Rectangle


I chose to cut the sides of this hole by hinging the skilsaw down into the line as it gives a cleaner, straighter cut than the jig saw. If you aren't comfortable with this don't do it. Use the jig saw.

Abrasive saw Saw Cold saw Circular saw Machine tool


You have to use the jig saw for the ends anyway. When making cuts like this with a jig saw you might want to cut a little inside the line and clean it up later with a router and a guide. Jig saw blades like to wander on the bottom side of the cut. I'll cover this later.

Wood Office ruler Hardwood Wood stain Gas


Now, with the outer frame screwed and glued together and the long dog hole log installed, spread glue and screw down the bottom. (shown upside down of course)

Wood Outdoor furniture Wood stain Natural material Hardwood


This is a photo taken later, when I was assembling the top but I'm inserting it here to illustrate a point that you should always consider when building with plywood that isn't flat. You can make it work for you. I should have mentioned this before but it's something I do without even thinking about it, like checking for grain direction. In the case of these pieces, I laid them out so that the cup was up. That means that when you screw down the edges, the center is under pressure …. self clamping! There is no need to put screws in the dog strip area. Of course you can if you want or if the cup is the other way.

Table Wood Wood stain Floor Plank


Next, glue up and install the short dog hole log and clamp in place. The holdfast is just there for alignment, not holding anything.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Varnish


Then add parts "P" and "U" working quickly.

Wood Tool Hand tool Gas Hardwood


Now add the cross members and clamp everything. (Love those $2 clamps)

Wood Tool Hardwood Plank Composite material


Now, just to be accurate, replace the top in it's screw holes and re-trace the wagon vice hole. It is very important that this be as accurate as possible. When removed, as you can see, it is a bit off it's old marks.

Brown Wood Brick Brickwork Wood stain


To avoid confusion, I made tack holes at the corners of the good line and then sanded the lines off. I then redrew only the good line and worked from it to lay out the actual hole to be cut.

Brown Wood Hardwood Wood stain Flooring


Brown Wood Wood stain Floor Flooring


Now you can glue the bottom / framing unit down to the leg assembly with lots of 2" screws. The critical alignment is that the first dog hole on the left should line up with the center of the leg vice and that the plywood box should be flush with the front of the leg vice leg.

Wood Rectangle Material property Gas Tints and shades


With the hole cut out of the top sheet with a jig saw (slightly inside the lines), you can go ahead and glue the top in place and clean up the edges. I had planned to make the facing boards out of hardwood but since there was plywood left over, I cut them out of it and dry assembled them.

Wood Outdoor furniture Natural material Stool Table


So there you have it, two sheets of plywood put to good use. I still have some scraps left over.

There's nothing left but vices and lipstick and we'll get to that tomorrow.

Thanks for looking in.

Paul
Vices and lipstick….sounds like the making of a good mystery book!!
 

Attachments

#118 ·
Lipstick and Vices

OK, time to put some lipstick on the pig. She may not be much but we can still tart her up a little. But before we get into applying some color and finish however there is one thing that I said I would clear up later. It involves cleaning up the jig saw lines where the wagon vice hole was cut on the top. Because it was cut from the bottom we can't be sure the top will be pretty. I suggested cutting a little inside the line and we'd clean it up later. This is the same jig we used for the skilsaw but made for a straight bit in a trim router. Your full size router can be used if you don't have a trim router but this one is excellent and only costs around $25. There's a blog on the jig here.

Wood Camera accessory Flooring Gas Hardwood


Here's the first of the lipstick. Just a little Minwax Jacobean stain to break up all that bland plywood. It is followed by several coats of exterior water based Varathane. I like it as a shop fixture finish as it resists most goo and can be sanded and re-coated as needed.

Table Wood Outdoor bench Outdoor table Outdoor furniture


So much for the war paint, on to the "jewellery". This is some of the beautiful Osage Orange that Gene Howe gave me a few years ago. It will become the leg vice chop.

Wood Office ruler Rectangle Ruler Table


This stuff is hard as nails so I'm drilling lots of holes before I go at it with the jig saw. The ShopSmith makes a great drill press with a nice big table / fence.

Wood Musical instrument Musical instrument accessory Gas Hardwood


In the next couple of photos the bench starts helping me build her parts. Here I'm cutting out the holes in the chop and cleaning up with a chisel.

Wood Floor Flooring Table Wood stain


Wood Membranophone Floor Flooring Drum


I made my log (variation from the plans) from three pieces of 1" Osage Orange. Here I have first cut a wedge and I am using it to mark the same angle on the center piece.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Rectangle


Now, with the wedge in place and the second layer clamped up. I'm drilling and screwing the layers. The wedge is in the down position and is perfectly fitted in the slot. Notice that the center-lines of the holes are marked so I won't put any screws in their way.

Wood Tool Hand tool Hardwood Wood stain


After gluing up the log the holes are drilled. I carefully marked and cut the 3/4" holes from both sides with a forstner bit.

Milling Wood Apiary Jig grinder Wood stain


A little more jewellery. You can (and probably should) use steel pins here but since I had the lathe set up to make the wheel anyway, I made a 1/2"pin for the bottom and a 3/4'one for the top.

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Bumper Gas Machine


I got a little carried away
and missed taking a few photos here. The wheel is also Osage Orange and is just a disc so that's not too hard. You could even use a caster in a pinch. I also missed photos of the wagon vice parts being cut. It's not hard but will require a table saw and a band saw. To get the angles to match at the back of the wagon vice I used the off-cuts from the block with a little padding to make the glued in side parts.
Pictured are the wagon, a couple of shims, the wedge and the block.
Note: you may notice that the hole in the top has been changed. The second step shown in the last blog segment was a mistake. The front part should be about 2 1/4" wide and the rest is all 3" with the angle pieces added at the back. .... Sorry.

Wood Wooden block Hardwood Wood stain Rectangle


Here's the wagon vice in use clamping the trial log I built with left over plywood. Ultimately, I didn't trust the plywood glue joints to hold up so I changed it out.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Flooring Floor


And here she is, all done !

Wood Composite material Gas Table Engineering


I would love to see more of these. It is a very strong useful bench.

As for the challenge, I will do an accounting to see how well I did on the costs but the materials are still just two sheets of plywood and a board. I'll post the final tally soon.

Thanks for looking in and please ask questions if there's some clarification I can make.

Paul
 

Attachments

#119 ·
Lipstick and Vices

OK, time to put some lipstick on the pig. She may not be much but we can still tart her up a little. But before we get into applying some color and finish however there is one thing that I said I would clear up later. It involves cleaning up the jig saw lines where the wagon vice hole was cut on the top. Because it was cut from the bottom we can't be sure the top will be pretty. I suggested cutting a little inside the line and we'd clean it up later. This is the same jig we used for the skilsaw but made for a straight bit in a trim router. Your full size router can be used if you don't have a trim router but this one is excellent and only costs around $25. There's a blog on the jig here.

Wood Camera accessory Flooring Gas Hardwood


Here's the first of the lipstick. Just a little Minwax Jacobean stain to break up all that bland plywood. It is followed by several coats of exterior water based Varathane. I like it as a shop fixture finish as it resists most goo and can be sanded and re-coated as needed.

Table Wood Outdoor bench Outdoor table Outdoor furniture


So much for the war paint, on to the "jewellery". This is some of the beautiful Osage Orange that Gene Howe gave me a few years ago. It will become the leg vice chop.

Wood Office ruler Rectangle Ruler Table


This stuff is hard as nails so I'm drilling lots of holes before I go at it with the jig saw. The ShopSmith makes a great drill press with a nice big table / fence.

Wood Musical instrument Musical instrument accessory Gas Hardwood


In the next couple of photos the bench starts helping me build her parts. Here I'm cutting out the holes in the chop and cleaning up with a chisel.

Wood Floor Flooring Table Wood stain


Wood Membranophone Floor Flooring Drum


I made my log (variation from the plans) from three pieces of 1" Osage Orange. Here I have first cut a wedge and I am using it to mark the same angle on the center piece.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Rectangle


Now, with the wedge in place and the second layer clamped up. I'm drilling and screwing the layers. The wedge is in the down position and is perfectly fitted in the slot. Notice that the center-lines of the holes are marked so I won't put any screws in their way.

Wood Tool Hand tool Hardwood Wood stain


After gluing up the log the holes are drilled. I carefully marked and cut the 3/4" holes from both sides with a forstner bit.

Milling Wood Apiary Jig grinder Wood stain


A little more jewellery. You can (and probably should) use steel pins here but since I had the lathe set up to make the wheel anyway, I made a 1/2"pin for the bottom and a 3/4'one for the top.

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Bumper Gas Machine


I got a little carried away
and missed taking a few photos here. The wheel is also Osage Orange and is just a disc so that's not too hard. You could even use a caster in a pinch. I also missed photos of the wagon vice parts being cut. It's not hard but will require a table saw and a band saw. To get the angles to match at the back of the wagon vice I used the off-cuts from the block with a little padding to make the glued in side parts.
Pictured are the wagon, a couple of shims, the wedge and the block.
Note: you may notice that the hole in the top has been changed. The second step shown in the last blog segment was a mistake. The front part should be about 2 1/4" wide and the rest is all 3" with the angle pieces added at the back. .... Sorry.

Wood Wooden block Hardwood Wood stain Rectangle


Here's the wagon vice in use clamping the trial log I built with left over plywood. Ultimately, I didn't trust the plywood glue joints to hold up so I changed it out.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Flooring Floor


And here she is, all done !

Wood Composite material Gas Table Engineering


I would love to see more of these. It is a very strong useful bench.

As for the challenge, I will do an accounting to see how well I did on the costs but the materials are still just two sheets of plywood and a board. I'll post the final tally soon.

Thanks for looking in and please ask questions if there's some clarification I can make.

Paul
You certainly did a wonderful job on this and it was entertaining to follow along as you built this! Thanks for doing this.
 

Attachments

#142 ·
Final Accounting and a Few Details

At the outset of this project I challenged myself to make this a "best bang for the buck" build. This doesn't necessarily mean the cheapest possible bench but rather the best balance of utility and cost. I also said I would account for costs without counting on finding good deals or using "found " materials from around the shop. The cost shown here should reflect what a novice woodworker should expect to pay at Home Depot or the like.

So let's see how I did.

Cost of materials:

- 2 Sheets of 3/4" plywood (sanded) .......................... ~ $75
- 9 FBM of solid hardwood …. ~ $5/ FBM …................ ~ $45
- Glue, screws, threaded rod, etc. .............................. ~ $20
- Finish …............................................................... ~ $10
- Casters ….............................................................. ~ $8

Total…...............................................................................................................................~$158

Tools used on the basic bench: I'll assume that you buy really cheap stuff like I used here
and know how to find a HF store.

- Skilsaw …............................................................. ~$35
- Drill …..................................................................~ $15
- Router …...............................................................~ $30
- Ruler, square …...................................................... ~$10
- Tape measure …..................................................... ~ Free
- Clamps ….............................................................. ~ $10 (4 at $2 and 2 at $1)
- Jigsaw ….............................................................. ~ $20
- Forstner bit set …...................................................~ $20
- Router bit set …..................................................... ~ $20
- Hand plane …....................................................... ~ $10
- Hammer ….............................................................. ~$5
- Pencil, chip brush, whatever …................................. ~ $2

Total….................................................................................................................................~$177

Tools used for the vices :

Lathe, Bandsaw, Table Saw, Drill Press …(Older ShopSmith with bandsaw on Craigslist or Ebay)....... ~ $500

Grand Total …...................................................................................................................... ~ $835

Of course if you have a few basic tools and a friend with a ShopSmith the bench costs ~ $150. If you have a bit of hardwood lying around and get a deal on plywood it could cost as little as $60 to $70.

That takes care of the bucks, now what do you get for bang?

This is a heavy (for its size) rigid, solid bench that will last a very long time.
It has a good functional leg vice and a good functional wagon vice.
It has dog holes and dogs for use with the vices or with holdfasts (Gramercy ~ $40)
It is easily moved out of the way to let the car back in the garage.

Here are a few detail photos that show a couple of tweaks and a jig.

Here is the leg vice raised up on a 1/4" shim being used against a bench dog.

Wood Table Gas Creative arts Composite material


This one shows a rebate I made for the wheel so the leg can come flush against the bench leg. You can also see the caster wedges.

Wood Wood stain Gas Hardwood Plywood


Here is the leg vice tight against the bench. The lower pin is stored in a hole behind the leg.

Table Wood Plank Wood stain Composite material


This one shows
my veneer cutting jig being secured to the bench by the holdfasts.
Table Wood Automotive exterior Hardwood Flooring


That's a wrap. I hope someone can use this.

Thanks for looking in.

Paul
 

Attachments

#143 ·
Final Accounting and a Few Details

At the outset of this project I challenged myself to make this a "best bang for the buck" build. This doesn't necessarily mean the cheapest possible bench but rather the best balance of utility and cost. I also said I would account for costs without counting on finding good deals or using "found " materials from around the shop. The cost shown here should reflect what a novice woodworker should expect to pay at Home Depot or the like.

So let's see how I did.

Cost of materials:

- 2 Sheets of 3/4" plywood (sanded) .......................... ~ $75
- 9 FBM of solid hardwood …. ~ $5/ FBM …................ ~ $45
- Glue, screws, threaded rod, etc. .............................. ~ $20
- Finish …............................................................... ~ $10
- Casters ….............................................................. ~ $8

Total…...............................................................................................................................~$158

Tools used on the basic bench: I'll assume that you buy really cheap stuff like I used here
and know how to find a HF store.

- Skilsaw …............................................................. ~$35
- Drill …..................................................................~ $15
- Router …...............................................................~ $30
- Ruler, square …...................................................... ~$10
- Tape measure …..................................................... ~ Free
- Clamps ….............................................................. ~ $10 (4 at $2 and 2 at $1)
- Jigsaw ….............................................................. ~ $20
- Forstner bit set …...................................................~ $20
- Router bit set …..................................................... ~ $20
- Hand plane …....................................................... ~ $10
- Hammer ….............................................................. ~$5
- Pencil, chip brush, whatever …................................. ~ $2

Total….................................................................................................................................~$177

Tools used for the vices :

Lathe, Bandsaw, Table Saw, Drill Press …(Older ShopSmith with bandsaw on Craigslist or Ebay)....... ~ $500

Grand Total …...................................................................................................................... ~ $835

Of course if you have a few basic tools and a friend with a ShopSmith the bench costs ~ $150. If you have a bit of hardwood lying around and get a deal on plywood it could cost as little as $60 to $70.

That takes care of the bucks, now what do you get for bang?

This is a heavy (for its size) rigid, solid bench that will last a very long time.
It has a good functional leg vice and a good functional wagon vice.
It has dog holes and dogs for use with the vices or with holdfasts (Gramercy ~ $40)
It is easily moved out of the way to let the car back in the garage.

Here are a few detail photos that show a couple of tweaks and a jig.

Here is the leg vice raised up on a 1/4" shim being used against a bench dog.

Wood Table Gas Creative arts Composite material


This one shows a rebate I made for the wheel so the leg can come flush against the bench leg. You can also see the caster wedges.

Wood Wood stain Gas Hardwood Plywood


Here is the leg vice tight against the bench. The lower pin is stored in a hole behind the leg.

Table Wood Plank Wood stain Composite material


This one shows
my veneer cutting jig being secured to the bench by the holdfasts.
Table Wood Automotive exterior Hardwood Flooring


That's a wrap. I hope someone can use this.

Thanks for looking in.

Paul
Mighty fine! I'm sure several new woodworkers will benefit from this as well as the earlier blog. Thanks for your help.
 

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