Warning, entry level instructions.
Additional note Of course if you have a table saw, ..... use it and disregard this segment.
When I left off I had dry fitted the dog hole logs so next up before we start all the ripping we should glue them up. First of course you have to cut off the pieces P from the ends of the short dog hole strips M and N.
The best way to make sure the holes line up is to put some dowels or whatever in a couple of the holes while you glue and screw them. I happened to have the Gramercy holdfasts that I’m going to use in the bench on hand so no better line up jigs. I’m using screws instead of clamps because I’m trying to keep the tool list as small and affordable as possible. I do have better tools for these jobs you know.
I think most will recognize the clamps that I am using as the famous $2.00 HF plastic bar clamps. I love them. Yes, they break sometimes but I just buy a few extras.
Now on to ripping all that plywood with the $1.50 table saw. Because of the sequence of grooving and separating and more grooving in the dog hole strips, I cut to lines spaced about the kerf of my skilsaw blade.
For a lot of strips that kind of layout is not only time consuming but prone to inaccuracy so here’s the way I cut these strips to be identical.
There are lots of 3 1/2” strips so I’ll use them as an example. First , lay out a mark 3 1/2” from a factory edge and then make a little nick freehand with the skilsaw just on the line but outside it. Line a piece of scrap up with the outside of the kerf and mark a square line on it at the edge of the sheet.
Glue another little piece of scrap on exactly at the line.
You now have a guide to setup as many identical 3 1/2” cuts as you want. Just butt the cutting jig against it at each end and clamp. Check both ends once more and then cut off the strip. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. .... You get it.
This is another way that works if you only have a few but if you have more and you’re like me you will inadvertently use the square for something in the middle of it all and have to try to get it back exactly where it was again.
When you get too close to the edge for clamping, use a screw.
When you get really close use a screw and a piece of scrap to support the cutting jig. Don’t worry if the screw mushrooms the MDF a little. This isn’t the guide line, it’s the cut line. What you do have to watch is that the screw itself doesn’t infringe on the line.
Make a cut list or print out the sheet from the SU and strike off the pieces cut.
When you finish one of the sheet quarters, lay out the pieces like the plan to check it.
I didn’t take any photos of the cross cutting as I was doing it freehand to the lines and didn’t have a hand for the camera. It’s pretty easy that way but by all means, make a little guide if you don’t feel confident freehand.
So now almost all the pieces are cut, except for the curved ones. Next up will be cutting the notches for the half laps and maybe some assembly.
Thanks for looking in
-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglas boats he would have given us fibrerglas trees. http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/