I know that I said I would post the Sketchup at the end of the build but after some thought I have decided to post it now even though there may be some changes made during the build. I think it will make the blog easier to follow. If anyone wants to look for mistakes (proof read) feel free, I’d like this to be glitch free when it’s done.
I will format the rest of this blog as building instructions and will try to do it to suit beginning woodworkers so please bear with me if you are more experienced.
Here’s what I’m building
I have been having some pack rat problems both in the shop and in my car that have kept me from getting started with this project but they are getting straightened out and I got about an hour and a half in yesterday.
I started with the dog hole strips because they are the trickiest part of the basic bench and it’s nice to get them out of the way.
If you look at the SU model, you will see that the two sheets of plywood can be cut at the source to four pieces each and fit in a car. That’s great but all the pieces aren’t the same so make sure you use the right piece to cut any given parts.
This is the 47 1/2” X 22” piece (upper right part of the lower sheet) and I have laid out the strips that will make the dog hole parts and the filler pieces that go with them. These are pieces K,L,M,N,and P. The 1/4” MDF assembly at the left is a simple jig to make circular saw cutting accurate.
Here’s the jig in action.
... and here is the piece cut off with the parts letter marked as in the SU. Also notice that the dog holes are marked.
In preparation for routing the dog hole halves, take a quick measurement from the cutting edge of your bit (3/4” core box) to the edge of the router base. This doesn’t have to be terribly accurate so a tape is fine.
Next clamp a straight edged scrap to the plywood, square to the edge and your router measurement from the nearest side of the groove layout lines.
Now you can set your bit to a depth that will give you half of a 3/4” diameter hole. Do this by grooving two pieces of scrap and putting them together over a 3/4” dowel. Adjust the bit until the hole is round and the dowel is a nice fit. When you know you are set up you can rout the groove. It would be nice to do this in several shallow passes but unless you have a plunge router with an accurate stop it will mean a lot of re-adjusting of the depth for all the holes. Just move slowly and even a cheap bit like this one will do a fine job. If you aren’t used to doing this try it on some scrap first . The important thing is to keep pressure on the guide stick so you don’t wander.
When you are done the first five grooves separate the long strips (K,L) from the short ones (M,N), again using the $1.50 table saw and cut the remaining two grooves in the long strips only.
Now you have one long strip with seven hole grooves and one short one with five holes and two spacers (P) that will be cut off. (The cut line for the “P” parts here was changed after these photos to give the last dog hole more beef. The SU reflects the change)
Now you have to cut the two halves of each piece apart. This takes a little alteration in the technique. As you don’t have enough to clamp the jig to, just screw it down on your mark. Use screws long enough to extend into the piece below to stabilize the whole thing for the cut. Of course when making plywood cuts over other plywood, always sight under the cut line to make sure you won’t be cutting the piece below. Here it is ll set up nice and stable and clear of the “bench” piece that it is screwed to. (The piece that does appear to be under the cut line is a couple of pieces down and out of the way)
Here’s a dry fit of the two strips. The “P” pieces are not yet cut off.
That’s as far as I got in the time I had but it’s a start. I’ll try to get some time in over the weekend. It shouldn’t take long. (famous last words)
Thanks for looking in,
-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees. http://prmdesigns.com/