When ever I post one of these blogs people ask how I cut, handle and keep track of the tiny pieces. It’s an acquired talent I guess. In my case I use things I’ve been taught , things I’ve read and some that I just made up.
Taking them one at a time the first would be …..........
”How are they cut”?I’m sure that there are some out there who can cut this part on a scroll saw, but I’m certainly not one of them. On the chevalet however, it is quite easy and can be done reasonably quickly with a little practice. It is a little harder though when there’s a camera between your face and the cut. This is the setup I used to get a close up view of the cut. You’ll have to imagine the camera mounted on the tripod, I had to remove it to take the picture.
Here’s the video of the cut.
<iframe src=”http://www.youtube.com/embed/cibmPJB4iFU” frameborder=”0” height=”315” width=”420”></iframe>
That’s it. The chevalet does the work. All I do is sit there and saw. Next up would be ….....
”How are the tiny pieces handled?”
Very carefully comes to mind but in reality tweezers are invaluable. I also make use of very sharp dental style picks. The next little video shows the part cut in the last one getting placed in the mockup picture on clear peel and stick paper.
This is the part after placement. The teeny tiny bit I’m playing with at the end of the video is the edge of the cap brim to the right of the rigging wire that will come in later. Now that one is small.
Here’s the video of the placement.
<iframe src=”http://www.youtube.com/embed/usd-flN8WFw” frameborder=”0” height=”315” width=”420”></iframe>
That leaves management.
In the photo below three copies of each part are placed in a marquetry tray in a more or less “exploded” view.This is essential when you have a lot of parts, particularly when there are similar ones like the port hole parts.
Working from this tray you can assemble the pictures on a suitable mounting board. For complex assemblies I like the traditional French method taught at ASFM of sticking the pieces, good side down, on stretched butcher’s paper with hot hide glue. For simpler ones, I like the clear sticky film.
In this case, because I’m cutting piece by piece and all pieces are cut independently, I have the opportunity to “preview” the picture and make veneer changes if I wish as I go along. As an example the pin rail around the mast doesn’t stand out enough from the cabin front here so I’ll likely change it out to a lighter color.
To accomplish this preview I’m using the clear sticky film over the pattern. I can place the pieces good side down (the good sides have paper reinforcing on them) and see the colors. When using this material it’s a good idea to keep it covered as it seems to lose it’s tack if exposed. In this case I don’t want the pieces very well adhered but if I did, pressing it will ramp up the holding power.
This is my progress as of today. I’ve only been getting a couple of hours a day in the shop ….....yard work, you know.
Tomorrow I hope to cut the hull parts. I’ve chosen a walnut burl in the hope that it will simulate the mottled reflections in the hull paint.
Wish me luck.
Thanks for looking in.
-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees. http://prmdesigns.com/