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Some Epoxy Handling Tips

20K views 50 replies 27 participants last post by  WoodenDreams 
#1 ·
Don't get any on you !

The first rule I try to follow when using epoxies is "Don't get any on you !" and the second one is "Don't get any on your handles !" Basically for more reasons than I need to get into here no one wants to get it on them. The question seems to be how to avoid it.

I've used A LOT of epoxy over the years for everything from gluing hulls together to making wooden fuel tanks, water tanks and even a bathtub and I've developed a number of procedures that help me stay clean.

I happened to have a little epoxy job this morning in the shop and thought it might be a good opportunity to document a few.

First and foremost is the need for a proper glue stick. What difference does it make what I stir my glue with ? you ask. Well none actually but a good glue stick will do many more things for you than just stir your glue. You want to keep the number of epoxy contaminated articles to a minimum so it makes sense to use a multi-functional glue stick. This is what mine look like. I usually spend a bit of time to make them and often use the same one many many times.

The features are:

1) Appropriate length for the job and the container you are using.
-Too short and it gets you sticky.
-Too long and it tips over the glue cup….. and gets everything sticky.

2) Comfortable fit in the hand. Like an artist's brush, you'll be using it for delicate finicky jobs. (really)

3) Wide enough blade to facilitate mixing but narrower further up to allow it to better reach tight corners.

4) Chisel tip to facilitate cleaning up excesses, cut at a little angle to make filleting easier and with a radius at the toe for shaping the size of fillet you want to use.

Wood Plant Metal

Wood Rectangle Beige Linens Tints and shades


For the job today I decided to use what was referred to in my old shipyard as a "pukemouse" because, well it looks like a mouse and …. well you'll get the idea.

Start by putting your finger into the corner of a plastic bag and stick it into a measuring cup. This will ensure that your glue will be concentrated in a corner.

Water Wood Flooring Floor Road surface


Then pull the rest of the bag well below the rim and as carefully as possible fill with your epoxy. This is of course a technique only used with thickened epoxy which is the only way I ever use it as a glue. The only time I use epoxy clear is as a finish or to lay up cloth.

Water Fluid Gas Circle Art


Tie off the top, snip off a tiny corner, and Voila you have a pukemouse.

Natural material Plant Plastic bag Wood Plastic wrap


Use the pukemouse (now you get it) like a cake decorator to neatly place the glue exactly where you want it.

Wood Gesture Safety glove Flooring Glove


Assemble your joint with whatever fasteners you are using and immediately clean any excess away with the chisel edge of your stick.

Table Wood Beige Floor Flooring


And scrape the excess back into the original mixing cup.

Wood Solvent Hardwood Wood stain Serveware


You can place more thickened epoxy along inside corners to reinforce the joint with a fillet.

Table Wood Chair Flooring Floor


Tool the fillet with the radius corner of your stick until you're happy with it.

Wood Flooring Beige Hardwood Wood stain


Carefully clean the excess with your chisel edge and return the excess to the pot.

Brown Wood Flooring Beige Floor


And you're done. The project is all glued up, there will be little or no sanding, and the only other things with epoxy on them are the glue cup (throw in the garbage), the empty pukemouse (also garbage) and the stick. I wipe the stick off with a paper towel (garbage) and set it aside to use again. I didn't even get any on my gloves this time.

Wood Hardwood Automotive design Composite material Rectangle


Hope some of you find this helpful.

Comments, critiques and questions are always welcome.

Paul
 

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#2 ·
Don't get any on you !

The first rule I try to follow when using epoxies is "Don't get any on you !" and the second one is "Don't get any on your handles !" Basically for more reasons than I need to get into here no one wants to get it on them. The question seems to be how to avoid it.

I've used A LOT of epoxy over the years for everything from gluing hulls together to making wooden fuel tanks, water tanks and even a bathtub and I've developed a number of procedures that help me stay clean.

I happened to have a little epoxy job this morning in the shop and thought it might be a good opportunity to document a few.

First and foremost is the need for a proper glue stick. What difference does it make what I stir my glue with ? you ask. Well none actually but a good glue stick will do many more things for you than just stir your glue. You want to keep the number of epoxy contaminated articles to a minimum so it makes sense to use a multi-functional glue stick. This is what mine look like. I usually spend a bit of time to make them and often use the same one many many times.

The features are:

1) Appropriate length for the job and the container you are using.
-Too short and it gets you sticky.
-Too long and it tips over the glue cup….. and gets everything sticky.

2) Comfortable fit in the hand. Like an artist's brush, you'll be using it for delicate finicky jobs. (really)

3) Wide enough blade to facilitate mixing but narrower further up to allow it to better reach tight corners.

4) Chisel tip to facilitate cleaning up excesses, cut at a little angle to make filleting easier and with a radius at the toe for shaping the size of fillet you want to use.

Wood Plant Metal

Wood Rectangle Beige Linens Tints and shades


For the job today I decided to use what was referred to in my old shipyard as a "pukemouse" because, well it looks like a mouse and …. well you'll get the idea.

Start by putting your finger into the corner of a plastic bag and stick it into a measuring cup. This will ensure that your glue will be concentrated in a corner.

Water Wood Flooring Floor Road surface


Then pull the rest of the bag well below the rim and as carefully as possible fill with your epoxy. This is of course a technique only used with thickened epoxy which is the only way I ever use it as a glue. The only time I use epoxy clear is as a finish or to lay up cloth.

Water Fluid Gas Circle Art


Tie off the top, snip off a tiny corner, and Voila you have a pukemouse.

Natural material Plant Plastic bag Wood Plastic wrap


Use the pukemouse (now you get it) like a cake decorator to neatly place the glue exactly where you want it.

Wood Gesture Safety glove Flooring Glove


Assemble your joint with whatever fasteners you are using and immediately clean any excess away with the chisel edge of your stick.

Table Wood Beige Floor Flooring


And scrape the excess back into the original mixing cup.

Wood Solvent Hardwood Wood stain Serveware


You can place more thickened epoxy along inside corners to reinforce the joint with a fillet.

Table Wood Chair Flooring Floor


Tool the fillet with the radius corner of your stick until you're happy with it.

Wood Flooring Beige Hardwood Wood stain


Carefully clean the excess with your chisel edge and return the excess to the pot.

Brown Wood Flooring Beige Floor


And you're done. The project is all glued up, there will be little or no sanding, and the only other things with epoxy on them are the glue cup (throw in the garbage), the empty pukemouse (also garbage) and the stick. I wipe the stick off with a paper towel (garbage) and set it aside to use again. I didn't even get any on my gloves this time.

Wood Hardwood Automotive design Composite material Rectangle


Hope some of you find this helpful.

Comments, critiques and questions are always welcome.

Paul
Good and useful Blog. Thanks Paul
 

Attachments

#3 ·
Don't get any on you !

The first rule I try to follow when using epoxies is "Don't get any on you !" and the second one is "Don't get any on your handles !" Basically for more reasons than I need to get into here no one wants to get it on them. The question seems to be how to avoid it.

I've used A LOT of epoxy over the years for everything from gluing hulls together to making wooden fuel tanks, water tanks and even a bathtub and I've developed a number of procedures that help me stay clean.

I happened to have a little epoxy job this morning in the shop and thought it might be a good opportunity to document a few.

First and foremost is the need for a proper glue stick. What difference does it make what I stir my glue with ? you ask. Well none actually but a good glue stick will do many more things for you than just stir your glue. You want to keep the number of epoxy contaminated articles to a minimum so it makes sense to use a multi-functional glue stick. This is what mine look like. I usually spend a bit of time to make them and often use the same one many many times.

The features are:

1) Appropriate length for the job and the container you are using.
-Too short and it gets you sticky.
-Too long and it tips over the glue cup….. and gets everything sticky.

2) Comfortable fit in the hand. Like an artist's brush, you'll be using it for delicate finicky jobs. (really)

3) Wide enough blade to facilitate mixing but narrower further up to allow it to better reach tight corners.

4) Chisel tip to facilitate cleaning up excesses, cut at a little angle to make filleting easier and with a radius at the toe for shaping the size of fillet you want to use.

Wood Plant Metal

Wood Rectangle Beige Linens Tints and shades


For the job today I decided to use what was referred to in my old shipyard as a "pukemouse" because, well it looks like a mouse and …. well you'll get the idea.

Start by putting your finger into the corner of a plastic bag and stick it into a measuring cup. This will ensure that your glue will be concentrated in a corner.

Water Wood Flooring Floor Road surface


Then pull the rest of the bag well below the rim and as carefully as possible fill with your epoxy. This is of course a technique only used with thickened epoxy which is the only way I ever use it as a glue. The only time I use epoxy clear is as a finish or to lay up cloth.

Water Fluid Gas Circle Art


Tie off the top, snip off a tiny corner, and Voila you have a pukemouse.

Natural material Plant Plastic bag Wood Plastic wrap


Use the pukemouse (now you get it) like a cake decorator to neatly place the glue exactly where you want it.

Wood Gesture Safety glove Flooring Glove


Assemble your joint with whatever fasteners you are using and immediately clean any excess away with the chisel edge of your stick.

Table Wood Beige Floor Flooring


And scrape the excess back into the original mixing cup.

Wood Solvent Hardwood Wood stain Serveware


You can place more thickened epoxy along inside corners to reinforce the joint with a fillet.

Table Wood Chair Flooring Floor


Tool the fillet with the radius corner of your stick until you're happy with it.

Wood Flooring Beige Hardwood Wood stain


Carefully clean the excess with your chisel edge and return the excess to the pot.

Brown Wood Flooring Beige Floor


And you're done. The project is all glued up, there will be little or no sanding, and the only other things with epoxy on them are the glue cup (throw in the garbage), the empty pukemouse (also garbage) and the stick. I wipe the stick off with a paper towel (garbage) and set it aside to use again. I didn't even get any on my gloves this time.

Wood Hardwood Automotive design Composite material Rectangle


Hope some of you find this helpful.

Comments, critiques and questions are always welcome.

Paul
Thanks Paul!

Those are great tips.

The last time I used epoxy It got on my fingers and hand. not a whole lot but I had to use lacquer thinner (following product instructions) to wash it off and I felt my hand burning even while running water on it (10 mn).
 

Attachments

#4 ·
Don't get any on you !

The first rule I try to follow when using epoxies is "Don't get any on you !" and the second one is "Don't get any on your handles !" Basically for more reasons than I need to get into here no one wants to get it on them. The question seems to be how to avoid it.

I've used A LOT of epoxy over the years for everything from gluing hulls together to making wooden fuel tanks, water tanks and even a bathtub and I've developed a number of procedures that help me stay clean.

I happened to have a little epoxy job this morning in the shop and thought it might be a good opportunity to document a few.

First and foremost is the need for a proper glue stick. What difference does it make what I stir my glue with ? you ask. Well none actually but a good glue stick will do many more things for you than just stir your glue. You want to keep the number of epoxy contaminated articles to a minimum so it makes sense to use a multi-functional glue stick. This is what mine look like. I usually spend a bit of time to make them and often use the same one many many times.

The features are:

1) Appropriate length for the job and the container you are using.
-Too short and it gets you sticky.
-Too long and it tips over the glue cup….. and gets everything sticky.

2) Comfortable fit in the hand. Like an artist's brush, you'll be using it for delicate finicky jobs. (really)

3) Wide enough blade to facilitate mixing but narrower further up to allow it to better reach tight corners.

4) Chisel tip to facilitate cleaning up excesses, cut at a little angle to make filleting easier and with a radius at the toe for shaping the size of fillet you want to use.

Wood Plant Metal

Wood Rectangle Beige Linens Tints and shades


For the job today I decided to use what was referred to in my old shipyard as a "pukemouse" because, well it looks like a mouse and …. well you'll get the idea.

Start by putting your finger into the corner of a plastic bag and stick it into a measuring cup. This will ensure that your glue will be concentrated in a corner.

Water Wood Flooring Floor Road surface


Then pull the rest of the bag well below the rim and as carefully as possible fill with your epoxy. This is of course a technique only used with thickened epoxy which is the only way I ever use it as a glue. The only time I use epoxy clear is as a finish or to lay up cloth.

Water Fluid Gas Circle Art


Tie off the top, snip off a tiny corner, and Voila you have a pukemouse.

Natural material Plant Plastic bag Wood Plastic wrap


Use the pukemouse (now you get it) like a cake decorator to neatly place the glue exactly where you want it.

Wood Gesture Safety glove Flooring Glove


Assemble your joint with whatever fasteners you are using and immediately clean any excess away with the chisel edge of your stick.

Table Wood Beige Floor Flooring


And scrape the excess back into the original mixing cup.

Wood Solvent Hardwood Wood stain Serveware


You can place more thickened epoxy along inside corners to reinforce the joint with a fillet.

Table Wood Chair Flooring Floor


Tool the fillet with the radius corner of your stick until you're happy with it.

Wood Flooring Beige Hardwood Wood stain


Carefully clean the excess with your chisel edge and return the excess to the pot.

Brown Wood Flooring Beige Floor


And you're done. The project is all glued up, there will be little or no sanding, and the only other things with epoxy on them are the glue cup (throw in the garbage), the empty pukemouse (also garbage) and the stick. I wipe the stick off with a paper towel (garbage) and set it aside to use again. I didn't even get any on my gloves this time.

Wood Hardwood Automotive design Composite material Rectangle


Hope some of you find this helpful.

Comments, critiques and questions are always welcome.

Paul
Nice.
But how do you mix it in the first place? I chucked a chopstick (wrapped with a little wire on the bottom end) in a drill and inserted it into a Solo cup. Used it over and over again.

Are you getting a new doggie?
Steve
 

Attachments

#5 ·
Don't get any on you !

The first rule I try to follow when using epoxies is "Don't get any on you !" and the second one is "Don't get any on your handles !" Basically for more reasons than I need to get into here no one wants to get it on them. The question seems to be how to avoid it.

I've used A LOT of epoxy over the years for everything from gluing hulls together to making wooden fuel tanks, water tanks and even a bathtub and I've developed a number of procedures that help me stay clean.

I happened to have a little epoxy job this morning in the shop and thought it might be a good opportunity to document a few.

First and foremost is the need for a proper glue stick. What difference does it make what I stir my glue with ? you ask. Well none actually but a good glue stick will do many more things for you than just stir your glue. You want to keep the number of epoxy contaminated articles to a minimum so it makes sense to use a multi-functional glue stick. This is what mine look like. I usually spend a bit of time to make them and often use the same one many many times.

The features are:

1) Appropriate length for the job and the container you are using.
-Too short and it gets you sticky.
-Too long and it tips over the glue cup….. and gets everything sticky.

2) Comfortable fit in the hand. Like an artist's brush, you'll be using it for delicate finicky jobs. (really)

3) Wide enough blade to facilitate mixing but narrower further up to allow it to better reach tight corners.

4) Chisel tip to facilitate cleaning up excesses, cut at a little angle to make filleting easier and with a radius at the toe for shaping the size of fillet you want to use.

Wood Plant Metal

Wood Rectangle Beige Linens Tints and shades


For the job today I decided to use what was referred to in my old shipyard as a "pukemouse" because, well it looks like a mouse and …. well you'll get the idea.

Start by putting your finger into the corner of a plastic bag and stick it into a measuring cup. This will ensure that your glue will be concentrated in a corner.

Water Wood Flooring Floor Road surface


Then pull the rest of the bag well below the rim and as carefully as possible fill with your epoxy. This is of course a technique only used with thickened epoxy which is the only way I ever use it as a glue. The only time I use epoxy clear is as a finish or to lay up cloth.

Water Fluid Gas Circle Art


Tie off the top, snip off a tiny corner, and Voila you have a pukemouse.

Natural material Plant Plastic bag Wood Plastic wrap


Use the pukemouse (now you get it) like a cake decorator to neatly place the glue exactly where you want it.

Wood Gesture Safety glove Flooring Glove


Assemble your joint with whatever fasteners you are using and immediately clean any excess away with the chisel edge of your stick.

Table Wood Beige Floor Flooring


And scrape the excess back into the original mixing cup.

Wood Solvent Hardwood Wood stain Serveware


You can place more thickened epoxy along inside corners to reinforce the joint with a fillet.

Table Wood Chair Flooring Floor


Tool the fillet with the radius corner of your stick until you're happy with it.

Wood Flooring Beige Hardwood Wood stain


Carefully clean the excess with your chisel edge and return the excess to the pot.

Brown Wood Flooring Beige Floor


And you're done. The project is all glued up, there will be little or no sanding, and the only other things with epoxy on them are the glue cup (throw in the garbage), the empty pukemouse (also garbage) and the stick. I wipe the stick off with a paper towel (garbage) and set it aside to use again. I didn't even get any on my gloves this time.

Wood Hardwood Automotive design Composite material Rectangle


Hope some of you find this helpful.

Comments, critiques and questions are always welcome.

Paul
Greats tips. Thanks Paul. I would have never thought to use the pukemouse(love the name) method.
 

Attachments

#6 ·
Don't get any on you !

The first rule I try to follow when using epoxies is "Don't get any on you !" and the second one is "Don't get any on your handles !" Basically for more reasons than I need to get into here no one wants to get it on them. The question seems to be how to avoid it.

I've used A LOT of epoxy over the years for everything from gluing hulls together to making wooden fuel tanks, water tanks and even a bathtub and I've developed a number of procedures that help me stay clean.

I happened to have a little epoxy job this morning in the shop and thought it might be a good opportunity to document a few.

First and foremost is the need for a proper glue stick. What difference does it make what I stir my glue with ? you ask. Well none actually but a good glue stick will do many more things for you than just stir your glue. You want to keep the number of epoxy contaminated articles to a minimum so it makes sense to use a multi-functional glue stick. This is what mine look like. I usually spend a bit of time to make them and often use the same one many many times.

The features are:

1) Appropriate length for the job and the container you are using.
-Too short and it gets you sticky.
-Too long and it tips over the glue cup….. and gets everything sticky.

2) Comfortable fit in the hand. Like an artist's brush, you'll be using it for delicate finicky jobs. (really)

3) Wide enough blade to facilitate mixing but narrower further up to allow it to better reach tight corners.

4) Chisel tip to facilitate cleaning up excesses, cut at a little angle to make filleting easier and with a radius at the toe for shaping the size of fillet you want to use.

Wood Plant Metal

Wood Rectangle Beige Linens Tints and shades


For the job today I decided to use what was referred to in my old shipyard as a "pukemouse" because, well it looks like a mouse and …. well you'll get the idea.

Start by putting your finger into the corner of a plastic bag and stick it into a measuring cup. This will ensure that your glue will be concentrated in a corner.

Water Wood Flooring Floor Road surface


Then pull the rest of the bag well below the rim and as carefully as possible fill with your epoxy. This is of course a technique only used with thickened epoxy which is the only way I ever use it as a glue. The only time I use epoxy clear is as a finish or to lay up cloth.

Water Fluid Gas Circle Art


Tie off the top, snip off a tiny corner, and Voila you have a pukemouse.

Natural material Plant Plastic bag Wood Plastic wrap


Use the pukemouse (now you get it) like a cake decorator to neatly place the glue exactly where you want it.

Wood Gesture Safety glove Flooring Glove


Assemble your joint with whatever fasteners you are using and immediately clean any excess away with the chisel edge of your stick.

Table Wood Beige Floor Flooring


And scrape the excess back into the original mixing cup.

Wood Solvent Hardwood Wood stain Serveware


You can place more thickened epoxy along inside corners to reinforce the joint with a fillet.

Table Wood Chair Flooring Floor


Tool the fillet with the radius corner of your stick until you're happy with it.

Wood Flooring Beige Hardwood Wood stain


Carefully clean the excess with your chisel edge and return the excess to the pot.

Brown Wood Flooring Beige Floor


And you're done. The project is all glued up, there will be little or no sanding, and the only other things with epoxy on them are the glue cup (throw in the garbage), the empty pukemouse (also garbage) and the stick. I wipe the stick off with a paper towel (garbage) and set it aside to use again. I didn't even get any on my gloves this time.

Wood Hardwood Automotive design Composite material Rectangle


Hope some of you find this helpful.

Comments, critiques and questions are always welcome.

Paul
Your experience is a good teacher for the rest of us. I have used the pukemouse idea but your technique is way more refined and predictable. Thanks for posting. This is a very useful blog.
 

Attachments

#7 ·
Don't get any on you !

The first rule I try to follow when using epoxies is "Don't get any on you !" and the second one is "Don't get any on your handles !" Basically for more reasons than I need to get into here no one wants to get it on them. The question seems to be how to avoid it.

I've used A LOT of epoxy over the years for everything from gluing hulls together to making wooden fuel tanks, water tanks and even a bathtub and I've developed a number of procedures that help me stay clean.

I happened to have a little epoxy job this morning in the shop and thought it might be a good opportunity to document a few.

First and foremost is the need for a proper glue stick. What difference does it make what I stir my glue with ? you ask. Well none actually but a good glue stick will do many more things for you than just stir your glue. You want to keep the number of epoxy contaminated articles to a minimum so it makes sense to use a multi-functional glue stick. This is what mine look like. I usually spend a bit of time to make them and often use the same one many many times.

The features are:

1) Appropriate length for the job and the container you are using.
-Too short and it gets you sticky.
-Too long and it tips over the glue cup….. and gets everything sticky.

2) Comfortable fit in the hand. Like an artist's brush, you'll be using it for delicate finicky jobs. (really)

3) Wide enough blade to facilitate mixing but narrower further up to allow it to better reach tight corners.

4) Chisel tip to facilitate cleaning up excesses, cut at a little angle to make filleting easier and with a radius at the toe for shaping the size of fillet you want to use.

Wood Plant Metal

Wood Rectangle Beige Linens Tints and shades


For the job today I decided to use what was referred to in my old shipyard as a "pukemouse" because, well it looks like a mouse and …. well you'll get the idea.

Start by putting your finger into the corner of a plastic bag and stick it into a measuring cup. This will ensure that your glue will be concentrated in a corner.

Water Wood Flooring Floor Road surface


Then pull the rest of the bag well below the rim and as carefully as possible fill with your epoxy. This is of course a technique only used with thickened epoxy which is the only way I ever use it as a glue. The only time I use epoxy clear is as a finish or to lay up cloth.

Water Fluid Gas Circle Art


Tie off the top, snip off a tiny corner, and Voila you have a pukemouse.

Natural material Plant Plastic bag Wood Plastic wrap


Use the pukemouse (now you get it) like a cake decorator to neatly place the glue exactly where you want it.

Wood Gesture Safety glove Flooring Glove


Assemble your joint with whatever fasteners you are using and immediately clean any excess away with the chisel edge of your stick.

Table Wood Beige Floor Flooring


And scrape the excess back into the original mixing cup.

Wood Solvent Hardwood Wood stain Serveware


You can place more thickened epoxy along inside corners to reinforce the joint with a fillet.

Table Wood Chair Flooring Floor


Tool the fillet with the radius corner of your stick until you're happy with it.

Wood Flooring Beige Hardwood Wood stain


Carefully clean the excess with your chisel edge and return the excess to the pot.

Brown Wood Flooring Beige Floor


And you're done. The project is all glued up, there will be little or no sanding, and the only other things with epoxy on them are the glue cup (throw in the garbage), the empty pukemouse (also garbage) and the stick. I wipe the stick off with a paper towel (garbage) and set it aside to use again. I didn't even get any on my gloves this time.

Wood Hardwood Automotive design Composite material Rectangle


Hope some of you find this helpful.

Comments, critiques and questions are always welcome.

Paul
What brand of epoxy do you use? Years ago I used a brand named Resco but can't find it anymore. Now I use West systems.
 

Attachments

#8 ·
Don't get any on you !

The first rule I try to follow when using epoxies is "Don't get any on you !" and the second one is "Don't get any on your handles !" Basically for more reasons than I need to get into here no one wants to get it on them. The question seems to be how to avoid it.

I've used A LOT of epoxy over the years for everything from gluing hulls together to making wooden fuel tanks, water tanks and even a bathtub and I've developed a number of procedures that help me stay clean.

I happened to have a little epoxy job this morning in the shop and thought it might be a good opportunity to document a few.

First and foremost is the need for a proper glue stick. What difference does it make what I stir my glue with ? you ask. Well none actually but a good glue stick will do many more things for you than just stir your glue. You want to keep the number of epoxy contaminated articles to a minimum so it makes sense to use a multi-functional glue stick. This is what mine look like. I usually spend a bit of time to make them and often use the same one many many times.

The features are:

1) Appropriate length for the job and the container you are using.
-Too short and it gets you sticky.
-Too long and it tips over the glue cup….. and gets everything sticky.

2) Comfortable fit in the hand. Like an artist's brush, you'll be using it for delicate finicky jobs. (really)

3) Wide enough blade to facilitate mixing but narrower further up to allow it to better reach tight corners.

4) Chisel tip to facilitate cleaning up excesses, cut at a little angle to make filleting easier and with a radius at the toe for shaping the size of fillet you want to use.

Wood Plant Metal

Wood Rectangle Beige Linens Tints and shades


For the job today I decided to use what was referred to in my old shipyard as a "pukemouse" because, well it looks like a mouse and …. well you'll get the idea.

Start by putting your finger into the corner of a plastic bag and stick it into a measuring cup. This will ensure that your glue will be concentrated in a corner.

Water Wood Flooring Floor Road surface


Then pull the rest of the bag well below the rim and as carefully as possible fill with your epoxy. This is of course a technique only used with thickened epoxy which is the only way I ever use it as a glue. The only time I use epoxy clear is as a finish or to lay up cloth.

Water Fluid Gas Circle Art


Tie off the top, snip off a tiny corner, and Voila you have a pukemouse.

Natural material Plant Plastic bag Wood Plastic wrap


Use the pukemouse (now you get it) like a cake decorator to neatly place the glue exactly where you want it.

Wood Gesture Safety glove Flooring Glove


Assemble your joint with whatever fasteners you are using and immediately clean any excess away with the chisel edge of your stick.

Table Wood Beige Floor Flooring


And scrape the excess back into the original mixing cup.

Wood Solvent Hardwood Wood stain Serveware


You can place more thickened epoxy along inside corners to reinforce the joint with a fillet.

Table Wood Chair Flooring Floor


Tool the fillet with the radius corner of your stick until you're happy with it.

Wood Flooring Beige Hardwood Wood stain


Carefully clean the excess with your chisel edge and return the excess to the pot.

Brown Wood Flooring Beige Floor


And you're done. The project is all glued up, there will be little or no sanding, and the only other things with epoxy on them are the glue cup (throw in the garbage), the empty pukemouse (also garbage) and the stick. I wipe the stick off with a paper towel (garbage) and set it aside to use again. I didn't even get any on my gloves this time.

Wood Hardwood Automotive design Composite material Rectangle


Hope some of you find this helpful.

Comments, critiques and questions are always welcome.

Paul
I like this, neat and tidy just the way I like to work.
 

Attachments

#9 ·
Don't get any on you !

The first rule I try to follow when using epoxies is "Don't get any on you !" and the second one is "Don't get any on your handles !" Basically for more reasons than I need to get into here no one wants to get it on them. The question seems to be how to avoid it.

I've used A LOT of epoxy over the years for everything from gluing hulls together to making wooden fuel tanks, water tanks and even a bathtub and I've developed a number of procedures that help me stay clean.

I happened to have a little epoxy job this morning in the shop and thought it might be a good opportunity to document a few.

First and foremost is the need for a proper glue stick. What difference does it make what I stir my glue with ? you ask. Well none actually but a good glue stick will do many more things for you than just stir your glue. You want to keep the number of epoxy contaminated articles to a minimum so it makes sense to use a multi-functional glue stick. This is what mine look like. I usually spend a bit of time to make them and often use the same one many many times.

The features are:

1) Appropriate length for the job and the container you are using.
-Too short and it gets you sticky.
-Too long and it tips over the glue cup….. and gets everything sticky.

2) Comfortable fit in the hand. Like an artist's brush, you'll be using it for delicate finicky jobs. (really)

3) Wide enough blade to facilitate mixing but narrower further up to allow it to better reach tight corners.

4) Chisel tip to facilitate cleaning up excesses, cut at a little angle to make filleting easier and with a radius at the toe for shaping the size of fillet you want to use.

Wood Plant Metal

Wood Rectangle Beige Linens Tints and shades


For the job today I decided to use what was referred to in my old shipyard as a "pukemouse" because, well it looks like a mouse and …. well you'll get the idea.

Start by putting your finger into the corner of a plastic bag and stick it into a measuring cup. This will ensure that your glue will be concentrated in a corner.

Water Wood Flooring Floor Road surface


Then pull the rest of the bag well below the rim and as carefully as possible fill with your epoxy. This is of course a technique only used with thickened epoxy which is the only way I ever use it as a glue. The only time I use epoxy clear is as a finish or to lay up cloth.

Water Fluid Gas Circle Art


Tie off the top, snip off a tiny corner, and Voila you have a pukemouse.

Natural material Plant Plastic bag Wood Plastic wrap


Use the pukemouse (now you get it) like a cake decorator to neatly place the glue exactly where you want it.

Wood Gesture Safety glove Flooring Glove


Assemble your joint with whatever fasteners you are using and immediately clean any excess away with the chisel edge of your stick.

Table Wood Beige Floor Flooring


And scrape the excess back into the original mixing cup.

Wood Solvent Hardwood Wood stain Serveware


You can place more thickened epoxy along inside corners to reinforce the joint with a fillet.

Table Wood Chair Flooring Floor


Tool the fillet with the radius corner of your stick until you're happy with it.

Wood Flooring Beige Hardwood Wood stain


Carefully clean the excess with your chisel edge and return the excess to the pot.

Brown Wood Flooring Beige Floor


And you're done. The project is all glued up, there will be little or no sanding, and the only other things with epoxy on them are the glue cup (throw in the garbage), the empty pukemouse (also garbage) and the stick. I wipe the stick off with a paper towel (garbage) and set it aside to use again. I didn't even get any on my gloves this time.

Wood Hardwood Automotive design Composite material Rectangle


Hope some of you find this helpful.

Comments, critiques and questions are always welcome.

Paul
Greg and Steve, I use System Three now. I've always used Industrial Formulators of Canada but they have been absorbed by System Three so I now buy the same products, under most of the same names but from a different company. Not a fan of West, just me.
I combine the two parts in a graduated cup or tub and hand mix it with the above stick, whose one flat side incidentally, is left that way to enable the constant scraping of the sides of the pot to ensure complete mixing.

No Steve, no new doggy. We're driving to our place in AZ this year and taking the dog and cat. This will be the "kitty RV" and will have a semi detached but en suite bathroom. I may just post it.
 

Attachments

#10 ·
Don't get any on you !

The first rule I try to follow when using epoxies is "Don't get any on you !" and the second one is "Don't get any on your handles !" Basically for more reasons than I need to get into here no one wants to get it on them. The question seems to be how to avoid it.

I've used A LOT of epoxy over the years for everything from gluing hulls together to making wooden fuel tanks, water tanks and even a bathtub and I've developed a number of procedures that help me stay clean.

I happened to have a little epoxy job this morning in the shop and thought it might be a good opportunity to document a few.

First and foremost is the need for a proper glue stick. What difference does it make what I stir my glue with ? you ask. Well none actually but a good glue stick will do many more things for you than just stir your glue. You want to keep the number of epoxy contaminated articles to a minimum so it makes sense to use a multi-functional glue stick. This is what mine look like. I usually spend a bit of time to make them and often use the same one many many times.

The features are:

1) Appropriate length for the job and the container you are using.
-Too short and it gets you sticky.
-Too long and it tips over the glue cup….. and gets everything sticky.

2) Comfortable fit in the hand. Like an artist's brush, you'll be using it for delicate finicky jobs. (really)

3) Wide enough blade to facilitate mixing but narrower further up to allow it to better reach tight corners.

4) Chisel tip to facilitate cleaning up excesses, cut at a little angle to make filleting easier and with a radius at the toe for shaping the size of fillet you want to use.

Wood Plant Metal

Wood Rectangle Beige Linens Tints and shades


For the job today I decided to use what was referred to in my old shipyard as a "pukemouse" because, well it looks like a mouse and …. well you'll get the idea.

Start by putting your finger into the corner of a plastic bag and stick it into a measuring cup. This will ensure that your glue will be concentrated in a corner.

Water Wood Flooring Floor Road surface


Then pull the rest of the bag well below the rim and as carefully as possible fill with your epoxy. This is of course a technique only used with thickened epoxy which is the only way I ever use it as a glue. The only time I use epoxy clear is as a finish or to lay up cloth.

Water Fluid Gas Circle Art


Tie off the top, snip off a tiny corner, and Voila you have a pukemouse.

Natural material Plant Plastic bag Wood Plastic wrap


Use the pukemouse (now you get it) like a cake decorator to neatly place the glue exactly where you want it.

Wood Gesture Safety glove Flooring Glove


Assemble your joint with whatever fasteners you are using and immediately clean any excess away with the chisel edge of your stick.

Table Wood Beige Floor Flooring


And scrape the excess back into the original mixing cup.

Wood Solvent Hardwood Wood stain Serveware


You can place more thickened epoxy along inside corners to reinforce the joint with a fillet.

Table Wood Chair Flooring Floor


Tool the fillet with the radius corner of your stick until you're happy with it.

Wood Flooring Beige Hardwood Wood stain


Carefully clean the excess with your chisel edge and return the excess to the pot.

Brown Wood Flooring Beige Floor


And you're done. The project is all glued up, there will be little or no sanding, and the only other things with epoxy on them are the glue cup (throw in the garbage), the empty pukemouse (also garbage) and the stick. I wipe the stick off with a paper towel (garbage) and set it aside to use again. I didn't even get any on my gloves this time.

Wood Hardwood Automotive design Composite material Rectangle


Hope some of you find this helpful.

Comments, critiques and questions are always welcome.

Paul
Ok if your still speaking to me after my %^&%& hinges experience let me ask a more direct question

I'm not familiar with the brands you discussed---- but recently i was ordered by my bride that i was to repair wrongs(sp) in my daughters dinning room chairs in time for Thanksgiving.

My experience with two part epoxy has been less than great….
A local talented wood god took me aside and spoke of the power of a product PC-7 and its magical wonders but he recommends putting the mixture on a putty knife and heating it till it becomes more fluid then applying to the chair….I would appreciate your thoughts my thanksgiven dinner is resting on this.. and my bride of 50 years come December is watching and the clocks running …thanks for all you do for us lesser beings
Be well …
Bill
 

Attachments

#11 ·
Don't get any on you !

The first rule I try to follow when using epoxies is "Don't get any on you !" and the second one is "Don't get any on your handles !" Basically for more reasons than I need to get into here no one wants to get it on them. The question seems to be how to avoid it.

I've used A LOT of epoxy over the years for everything from gluing hulls together to making wooden fuel tanks, water tanks and even a bathtub and I've developed a number of procedures that help me stay clean.

I happened to have a little epoxy job this morning in the shop and thought it might be a good opportunity to document a few.

First and foremost is the need for a proper glue stick. What difference does it make what I stir my glue with ? you ask. Well none actually but a good glue stick will do many more things for you than just stir your glue. You want to keep the number of epoxy contaminated articles to a minimum so it makes sense to use a multi-functional glue stick. This is what mine look like. I usually spend a bit of time to make them and often use the same one many many times.

The features are:

1) Appropriate length for the job and the container you are using.
-Too short and it gets you sticky.
-Too long and it tips over the glue cup….. and gets everything sticky.

2) Comfortable fit in the hand. Like an artist's brush, you'll be using it for delicate finicky jobs. (really)

3) Wide enough blade to facilitate mixing but narrower further up to allow it to better reach tight corners.

4) Chisel tip to facilitate cleaning up excesses, cut at a little angle to make filleting easier and with a radius at the toe for shaping the size of fillet you want to use.

Wood Plant Metal

Wood Rectangle Beige Linens Tints and shades


For the job today I decided to use what was referred to in my old shipyard as a "pukemouse" because, well it looks like a mouse and …. well you'll get the idea.

Start by putting your finger into the corner of a plastic bag and stick it into a measuring cup. This will ensure that your glue will be concentrated in a corner.

Water Wood Flooring Floor Road surface


Then pull the rest of the bag well below the rim and as carefully as possible fill with your epoxy. This is of course a technique only used with thickened epoxy which is the only way I ever use it as a glue. The only time I use epoxy clear is as a finish or to lay up cloth.

Water Fluid Gas Circle Art


Tie off the top, snip off a tiny corner, and Voila you have a pukemouse.

Natural material Plant Plastic bag Wood Plastic wrap


Use the pukemouse (now you get it) like a cake decorator to neatly place the glue exactly where you want it.

Wood Gesture Safety glove Flooring Glove


Assemble your joint with whatever fasteners you are using and immediately clean any excess away with the chisel edge of your stick.

Table Wood Beige Floor Flooring


And scrape the excess back into the original mixing cup.

Wood Solvent Hardwood Wood stain Serveware


You can place more thickened epoxy along inside corners to reinforce the joint with a fillet.

Table Wood Chair Flooring Floor


Tool the fillet with the radius corner of your stick until you're happy with it.

Wood Flooring Beige Hardwood Wood stain


Carefully clean the excess with your chisel edge and return the excess to the pot.

Brown Wood Flooring Beige Floor


And you're done. The project is all glued up, there will be little or no sanding, and the only other things with epoxy on them are the glue cup (throw in the garbage), the empty pukemouse (also garbage) and the stick. I wipe the stick off with a paper towel (garbage) and set it aside to use again. I didn't even get any on my gloves this time.

Wood Hardwood Automotive design Composite material Rectangle


Hope some of you find this helpful.

Comments, critiques and questions are always welcome.

Paul
I would hesitate to use epoxy on a really good chair, particularly an antique. It is great glue but a bad chair joint is likely the result of a structural problem in the joint that should be addressed. If you epoxy one loose joint and later have trouble with another or several other joints, you will have a lot of trouble and grief trying to disassemble it to make a proper repair. That's why I believe (not just me) that chairs should be glued with hide glue.

I can't pass judgement on the product you are referring to as I don't recognize it but heating any epoxy will accelerate the cure. Better to start with one that is not too viscous in the first place.

Sorry I can't be more help.
 

Attachments

#12 ·
Don't get any on you !

The first rule I try to follow when using epoxies is "Don't get any on you !" and the second one is "Don't get any on your handles !" Basically for more reasons than I need to get into here no one wants to get it on them. The question seems to be how to avoid it.

I've used A LOT of epoxy over the years for everything from gluing hulls together to making wooden fuel tanks, water tanks and even a bathtub and I've developed a number of procedures that help me stay clean.

I happened to have a little epoxy job this morning in the shop and thought it might be a good opportunity to document a few.

First and foremost is the need for a proper glue stick. What difference does it make what I stir my glue with ? you ask. Well none actually but a good glue stick will do many more things for you than just stir your glue. You want to keep the number of epoxy contaminated articles to a minimum so it makes sense to use a multi-functional glue stick. This is what mine look like. I usually spend a bit of time to make them and often use the same one many many times.

The features are:

1) Appropriate length for the job and the container you are using.
-Too short and it gets you sticky.
-Too long and it tips over the glue cup….. and gets everything sticky.

2) Comfortable fit in the hand. Like an artist's brush, you'll be using it for delicate finicky jobs. (really)

3) Wide enough blade to facilitate mixing but narrower further up to allow it to better reach tight corners.

4) Chisel tip to facilitate cleaning up excesses, cut at a little angle to make filleting easier and with a radius at the toe for shaping the size of fillet you want to use.

Wood Plant Metal

Wood Rectangle Beige Linens Tints and shades


For the job today I decided to use what was referred to in my old shipyard as a "pukemouse" because, well it looks like a mouse and …. well you'll get the idea.

Start by putting your finger into the corner of a plastic bag and stick it into a measuring cup. This will ensure that your glue will be concentrated in a corner.

Water Wood Flooring Floor Road surface


Then pull the rest of the bag well below the rim and as carefully as possible fill with your epoxy. This is of course a technique only used with thickened epoxy which is the only way I ever use it as a glue. The only time I use epoxy clear is as a finish or to lay up cloth.

Water Fluid Gas Circle Art


Tie off the top, snip off a tiny corner, and Voila you have a pukemouse.

Natural material Plant Plastic bag Wood Plastic wrap


Use the pukemouse (now you get it) like a cake decorator to neatly place the glue exactly where you want it.

Wood Gesture Safety glove Flooring Glove


Assemble your joint with whatever fasteners you are using and immediately clean any excess away with the chisel edge of your stick.

Table Wood Beige Floor Flooring


And scrape the excess back into the original mixing cup.

Wood Solvent Hardwood Wood stain Serveware


You can place more thickened epoxy along inside corners to reinforce the joint with a fillet.

Table Wood Chair Flooring Floor


Tool the fillet with the radius corner of your stick until you're happy with it.

Wood Flooring Beige Hardwood Wood stain


Carefully clean the excess with your chisel edge and return the excess to the pot.

Brown Wood Flooring Beige Floor


And you're done. The project is all glued up, there will be little or no sanding, and the only other things with epoxy on them are the glue cup (throw in the garbage), the empty pukemouse (also garbage) and the stick. I wipe the stick off with a paper towel (garbage) and set it aside to use again. I didn't even get any on my gloves this time.

Wood Hardwood Automotive design Composite material Rectangle


Hope some of you find this helpful.

Comments, critiques and questions are always welcome.

Paul
that helps a lot thank you
bill
 

Attachments

#13 ·
Don't get any on you !

The first rule I try to follow when using epoxies is "Don't get any on you !" and the second one is "Don't get any on your handles !" Basically for more reasons than I need to get into here no one wants to get it on them. The question seems to be how to avoid it.

I've used A LOT of epoxy over the years for everything from gluing hulls together to making wooden fuel tanks, water tanks and even a bathtub and I've developed a number of procedures that help me stay clean.

I happened to have a little epoxy job this morning in the shop and thought it might be a good opportunity to document a few.

First and foremost is the need for a proper glue stick. What difference does it make what I stir my glue with ? you ask. Well none actually but a good glue stick will do many more things for you than just stir your glue. You want to keep the number of epoxy contaminated articles to a minimum so it makes sense to use a multi-functional glue stick. This is what mine look like. I usually spend a bit of time to make them and often use the same one many many times.

The features are:

1) Appropriate length for the job and the container you are using.
-Too short and it gets you sticky.
-Too long and it tips over the glue cup….. and gets everything sticky.

2) Comfortable fit in the hand. Like an artist's brush, you'll be using it for delicate finicky jobs. (really)

3) Wide enough blade to facilitate mixing but narrower further up to allow it to better reach tight corners.

4) Chisel tip to facilitate cleaning up excesses, cut at a little angle to make filleting easier and with a radius at the toe for shaping the size of fillet you want to use.

Wood Plant Metal

Wood Rectangle Beige Linens Tints and shades


For the job today I decided to use what was referred to in my old shipyard as a "pukemouse" because, well it looks like a mouse and …. well you'll get the idea.

Start by putting your finger into the corner of a plastic bag and stick it into a measuring cup. This will ensure that your glue will be concentrated in a corner.

Water Wood Flooring Floor Road surface


Then pull the rest of the bag well below the rim and as carefully as possible fill with your epoxy. This is of course a technique only used with thickened epoxy which is the only way I ever use it as a glue. The only time I use epoxy clear is as a finish or to lay up cloth.

Water Fluid Gas Circle Art


Tie off the top, snip off a tiny corner, and Voila you have a pukemouse.

Natural material Plant Plastic bag Wood Plastic wrap


Use the pukemouse (now you get it) like a cake decorator to neatly place the glue exactly where you want it.

Wood Gesture Safety glove Flooring Glove


Assemble your joint with whatever fasteners you are using and immediately clean any excess away with the chisel edge of your stick.

Table Wood Beige Floor Flooring


And scrape the excess back into the original mixing cup.

Wood Solvent Hardwood Wood stain Serveware


You can place more thickened epoxy along inside corners to reinforce the joint with a fillet.

Table Wood Chair Flooring Floor


Tool the fillet with the radius corner of your stick until you're happy with it.

Wood Flooring Beige Hardwood Wood stain


Carefully clean the excess with your chisel edge and return the excess to the pot.

Brown Wood Flooring Beige Floor


And you're done. The project is all glued up, there will be little or no sanding, and the only other things with epoxy on them are the glue cup (throw in the garbage), the empty pukemouse (also garbage) and the stick. I wipe the stick off with a paper towel (garbage) and set it aside to use again. I didn't even get any on my gloves this time.

Wood Hardwood Automotive design Composite material Rectangle


Hope some of you find this helpful.

Comments, critiques and questions are always welcome.

Paul
I have always used west system. With the pumps 1 for 1 makes it almost fool proof. 1 extra pump of hardener on cold days , 1 less on hot days. Also thier fillers work well. Only problem it does go bad don't buy a gallon unless you need it, stay with the smaller sizes. I mix it with a toung depressor makes a nice radius, also use a popsicle stick for a smaller radius or paint it on with a small brush. I wet a rag with acitone before mixing for wiping my hands and fingers or if it gets on anything I don't want to be stuck together. I rarely use it on wood anymore the new glues, titebond 2 & 3 work well and are easier to controll.
 

Attachments

#14 ·
Don't get any on you !

The first rule I try to follow when using epoxies is "Don't get any on you !" and the second one is "Don't get any on your handles !" Basically for more reasons than I need to get into here no one wants to get it on them. The question seems to be how to avoid it.

I've used A LOT of epoxy over the years for everything from gluing hulls together to making wooden fuel tanks, water tanks and even a bathtub and I've developed a number of procedures that help me stay clean.

I happened to have a little epoxy job this morning in the shop and thought it might be a good opportunity to document a few.

First and foremost is the need for a proper glue stick. What difference does it make what I stir my glue with ? you ask. Well none actually but a good glue stick will do many more things for you than just stir your glue. You want to keep the number of epoxy contaminated articles to a minimum so it makes sense to use a multi-functional glue stick. This is what mine look like. I usually spend a bit of time to make them and often use the same one many many times.

The features are:

1) Appropriate length for the job and the container you are using.
-Too short and it gets you sticky.
-Too long and it tips over the glue cup….. and gets everything sticky.

2) Comfortable fit in the hand. Like an artist's brush, you'll be using it for delicate finicky jobs. (really)

3) Wide enough blade to facilitate mixing but narrower further up to allow it to better reach tight corners.

4) Chisel tip to facilitate cleaning up excesses, cut at a little angle to make filleting easier and with a radius at the toe for shaping the size of fillet you want to use.

Wood Plant Metal

Wood Rectangle Beige Linens Tints and shades


For the job today I decided to use what was referred to in my old shipyard as a "pukemouse" because, well it looks like a mouse and …. well you'll get the idea.

Start by putting your finger into the corner of a plastic bag and stick it into a measuring cup. This will ensure that your glue will be concentrated in a corner.

Water Wood Flooring Floor Road surface


Then pull the rest of the bag well below the rim and as carefully as possible fill with your epoxy. This is of course a technique only used with thickened epoxy which is the only way I ever use it as a glue. The only time I use epoxy clear is as a finish or to lay up cloth.

Water Fluid Gas Circle Art


Tie off the top, snip off a tiny corner, and Voila you have a pukemouse.

Natural material Plant Plastic bag Wood Plastic wrap


Use the pukemouse (now you get it) like a cake decorator to neatly place the glue exactly where you want it.

Wood Gesture Safety glove Flooring Glove


Assemble your joint with whatever fasteners you are using and immediately clean any excess away with the chisel edge of your stick.

Table Wood Beige Floor Flooring


And scrape the excess back into the original mixing cup.

Wood Solvent Hardwood Wood stain Serveware


You can place more thickened epoxy along inside corners to reinforce the joint with a fillet.

Table Wood Chair Flooring Floor


Tool the fillet with the radius corner of your stick until you're happy with it.

Wood Flooring Beige Hardwood Wood stain


Carefully clean the excess with your chisel edge and return the excess to the pot.

Brown Wood Flooring Beige Floor


And you're done. The project is all glued up, there will be little or no sanding, and the only other things with epoxy on them are the glue cup (throw in the garbage), the empty pukemouse (also garbage) and the stick. I wipe the stick off with a paper towel (garbage) and set it aside to use again. I didn't even get any on my gloves this time.

Wood Hardwood Automotive design Composite material Rectangle


Hope some of you find this helpful.

Comments, critiques and questions are always welcome.

Paul
To each his own but it's not generally a good idea to mess with epoxy ratios.

The hardener is not a catalyst. Both parts are consumed in an exact ratio like sodium ad chlorine in salt. A higher or lower level of hardener will speed or slow the reaction because a greater or fewer number of reagent ions are adjacent to one another and available to cross-link but when all the dancing is done there will be a few dancers without partners. These unlinked ions are detrimental to the finished characteristics of the polymer.
 

Attachments

#15 ·
Don't get any on you !

The first rule I try to follow when using epoxies is "Don't get any on you !" and the second one is "Don't get any on your handles !" Basically for more reasons than I need to get into here no one wants to get it on them. The question seems to be how to avoid it.

I've used A LOT of epoxy over the years for everything from gluing hulls together to making wooden fuel tanks, water tanks and even a bathtub and I've developed a number of procedures that help me stay clean.

I happened to have a little epoxy job this morning in the shop and thought it might be a good opportunity to document a few.

First and foremost is the need for a proper glue stick. What difference does it make what I stir my glue with ? you ask. Well none actually but a good glue stick will do many more things for you than just stir your glue. You want to keep the number of epoxy contaminated articles to a minimum so it makes sense to use a multi-functional glue stick. This is what mine look like. I usually spend a bit of time to make them and often use the same one many many times.

The features are:

1) Appropriate length for the job and the container you are using.
-Too short and it gets you sticky.
-Too long and it tips over the glue cup….. and gets everything sticky.

2) Comfortable fit in the hand. Like an artist's brush, you'll be using it for delicate finicky jobs. (really)

3) Wide enough blade to facilitate mixing but narrower further up to allow it to better reach tight corners.

4) Chisel tip to facilitate cleaning up excesses, cut at a little angle to make filleting easier and with a radius at the toe for shaping the size of fillet you want to use.

Wood Plant Metal

Wood Rectangle Beige Linens Tints and shades


For the job today I decided to use what was referred to in my old shipyard as a "pukemouse" because, well it looks like a mouse and …. well you'll get the idea.

Start by putting your finger into the corner of a plastic bag and stick it into a measuring cup. This will ensure that your glue will be concentrated in a corner.

Water Wood Flooring Floor Road surface


Then pull the rest of the bag well below the rim and as carefully as possible fill with your epoxy. This is of course a technique only used with thickened epoxy which is the only way I ever use it as a glue. The only time I use epoxy clear is as a finish or to lay up cloth.

Water Fluid Gas Circle Art


Tie off the top, snip off a tiny corner, and Voila you have a pukemouse.

Natural material Plant Plastic bag Wood Plastic wrap


Use the pukemouse (now you get it) like a cake decorator to neatly place the glue exactly where you want it.

Wood Gesture Safety glove Flooring Glove


Assemble your joint with whatever fasteners you are using and immediately clean any excess away with the chisel edge of your stick.

Table Wood Beige Floor Flooring


And scrape the excess back into the original mixing cup.

Wood Solvent Hardwood Wood stain Serveware


You can place more thickened epoxy along inside corners to reinforce the joint with a fillet.

Table Wood Chair Flooring Floor


Tool the fillet with the radius corner of your stick until you're happy with it.

Wood Flooring Beige Hardwood Wood stain


Carefully clean the excess with your chisel edge and return the excess to the pot.

Brown Wood Flooring Beige Floor


And you're done. The project is all glued up, there will be little or no sanding, and the only other things with epoxy on them are the glue cup (throw in the garbage), the empty pukemouse (also garbage) and the stick. I wipe the stick off with a paper towel (garbage) and set it aside to use again. I didn't even get any on my gloves this time.

Wood Hardwood Automotive design Composite material Rectangle


Hope some of you find this helpful.

Comments, critiques and questions are always welcome.

Paul
Nice tips-sometimes it's really the 'simple' things, isn't it?
 

Attachments

#16 ·
Don't get any on you !

The first rule I try to follow when using epoxies is "Don't get any on you !" and the second one is "Don't get any on your handles !" Basically for more reasons than I need to get into here no one wants to get it on them. The question seems to be how to avoid it.

I've used A LOT of epoxy over the years for everything from gluing hulls together to making wooden fuel tanks, water tanks and even a bathtub and I've developed a number of procedures that help me stay clean.

I happened to have a little epoxy job this morning in the shop and thought it might be a good opportunity to document a few.

First and foremost is the need for a proper glue stick. What difference does it make what I stir my glue with ? you ask. Well none actually but a good glue stick will do many more things for you than just stir your glue. You want to keep the number of epoxy contaminated articles to a minimum so it makes sense to use a multi-functional glue stick. This is what mine look like. I usually spend a bit of time to make them and often use the same one many many times.

The features are:

1) Appropriate length for the job and the container you are using.
-Too short and it gets you sticky.
-Too long and it tips over the glue cup….. and gets everything sticky.

2) Comfortable fit in the hand. Like an artist's brush, you'll be using it for delicate finicky jobs. (really)

3) Wide enough blade to facilitate mixing but narrower further up to allow it to better reach tight corners.

4) Chisel tip to facilitate cleaning up excesses, cut at a little angle to make filleting easier and with a radius at the toe for shaping the size of fillet you want to use.

Wood Plant Metal

Wood Rectangle Beige Linens Tints and shades


For the job today I decided to use what was referred to in my old shipyard as a "pukemouse" because, well it looks like a mouse and …. well you'll get the idea.

Start by putting your finger into the corner of a plastic bag and stick it into a measuring cup. This will ensure that your glue will be concentrated in a corner.

Water Wood Flooring Floor Road surface


Then pull the rest of the bag well below the rim and as carefully as possible fill with your epoxy. This is of course a technique only used with thickened epoxy which is the only way I ever use it as a glue. The only time I use epoxy clear is as a finish or to lay up cloth.

Water Fluid Gas Circle Art


Tie off the top, snip off a tiny corner, and Voila you have a pukemouse.

Natural material Plant Plastic bag Wood Plastic wrap


Use the pukemouse (now you get it) like a cake decorator to neatly place the glue exactly where you want it.

Wood Gesture Safety glove Flooring Glove


Assemble your joint with whatever fasteners you are using and immediately clean any excess away with the chisel edge of your stick.

Table Wood Beige Floor Flooring


And scrape the excess back into the original mixing cup.

Wood Solvent Hardwood Wood stain Serveware


You can place more thickened epoxy along inside corners to reinforce the joint with a fillet.

Table Wood Chair Flooring Floor


Tool the fillet with the radius corner of your stick until you're happy with it.

Wood Flooring Beige Hardwood Wood stain


Carefully clean the excess with your chisel edge and return the excess to the pot.

Brown Wood Flooring Beige Floor


And you're done. The project is all glued up, there will be little or no sanding, and the only other things with epoxy on them are the glue cup (throw in the garbage), the empty pukemouse (also garbage) and the stick. I wipe the stick off with a paper towel (garbage) and set it aside to use again. I didn't even get any on my gloves this time.

Wood Hardwood Automotive design Composite material Rectangle


Hope some of you find this helpful.

Comments, critiques and questions are always welcome.

Paul
I agree that West is a good brand. A couple of points may be useful:

1. after mixing, then pour the mix into a fresh mixing cup in order to lessen the chance that unmixed epoxy on the sides could contaminate the glue that is applied to the workpiece

2. if you need more time to work, the reaction can be slowed by making a thin film in, say, a pie tin rather than leaving it in a cup or jar after mixing; this is useful particularly when I am using strips of fiberglass tape or cloth

3. cleanup with rubbing alcohol
 

Attachments

#17 ·
Don't get any on you !

The first rule I try to follow when using epoxies is "Don't get any on you !" and the second one is "Don't get any on your handles !" Basically for more reasons than I need to get into here no one wants to get it on them. The question seems to be how to avoid it.

I've used A LOT of epoxy over the years for everything from gluing hulls together to making wooden fuel tanks, water tanks and even a bathtub and I've developed a number of procedures that help me stay clean.

I happened to have a little epoxy job this morning in the shop and thought it might be a good opportunity to document a few.

First and foremost is the need for a proper glue stick. What difference does it make what I stir my glue with ? you ask. Well none actually but a good glue stick will do many more things for you than just stir your glue. You want to keep the number of epoxy contaminated articles to a minimum so it makes sense to use a multi-functional glue stick. This is what mine look like. I usually spend a bit of time to make them and often use the same one many many times.

The features are:

1) Appropriate length for the job and the container you are using.
-Too short and it gets you sticky.
-Too long and it tips over the glue cup….. and gets everything sticky.

2) Comfortable fit in the hand. Like an artist's brush, you'll be using it for delicate finicky jobs. (really)

3) Wide enough blade to facilitate mixing but narrower further up to allow it to better reach tight corners.

4) Chisel tip to facilitate cleaning up excesses, cut at a little angle to make filleting easier and with a radius at the toe for shaping the size of fillet you want to use.




For the job today I decided to use what was referred to in my old shipyard as a "pukemouse" because, well it looks like a mouse and …. well you'll get the idea.

Start by putting your finger into the corner of a plastic bag and stick it into a measuring cup. This will ensure that your glue will be concentrated in a corner.



Then pull the rest of the bag well below the rim and as carefully as possible fill with your epoxy. This is of course a technique only used with thickened epoxy which is the only way I ever use it as a glue. The only time I use epoxy clear is as a finish or to lay up cloth.



Tie off the top, snip off a tiny corner, and Voila you have a pukemouse.



Use the pukemouse (now you get it) like a cake decorator to neatly place the glue exactly where you want it.



Assemble your joint with whatever fasteners you are using and immediately clean any excess away with the chisel edge of your stick.



And scrape the excess back into the original mixing cup.



You can place more thickened epoxy along inside corners to reinforce the joint with a fillet.



Tool the fillet with the radius corner of your stick until you're happy with it.



Carefully clean the excess with your chisel edge and return the excess to the pot.



And you're done. The project is all glued up, there will be little or no sanding, and the only other things with epoxy on them are the glue cup (throw in the garbage), the empty pukemouse (also garbage) and the stick. I wipe the stick off with a paper towel (garbage) and set it aside to use again. I didn't even get any on my gloves this time.



Hope some of you find this helpful.

Comments, critiques and questions are always welcome.

Paul
great tips…

I have heard that if you do get it on you be aware that you can have a reaction many months later…so far while usiing I am careful but I have gotten it on my from time to time in my boat building…

should I be worried that I will have a reaction down the road?
 

Attachments

#18 ·
Don't get any on you !

The first rule I try to follow when using epoxies is "Don't get any on you !" and the second one is "Don't get any on your handles !" Basically for more reasons than I need to get into here no one wants to get it on them. The question seems to be how to avoid it.

I've used A LOT of epoxy over the years for everything from gluing hulls together to making wooden fuel tanks, water tanks and even a bathtub and I've developed a number of procedures that help me stay clean.

I happened to have a little epoxy job this morning in the shop and thought it might be a good opportunity to document a few.

First and foremost is the need for a proper glue stick. What difference does it make what I stir my glue with ? you ask. Well none actually but a good glue stick will do many more things for you than just stir your glue. You want to keep the number of epoxy contaminated articles to a minimum so it makes sense to use a multi-functional glue stick. This is what mine look like. I usually spend a bit of time to make them and often use the same one many many times.

The features are:

1) Appropriate length for the job and the container you are using.
-Too short and it gets you sticky.
-Too long and it tips over the glue cup….. and gets everything sticky.

2) Comfortable fit in the hand. Like an artist's brush, you'll be using it for delicate finicky jobs. (really)

3) Wide enough blade to facilitate mixing but narrower further up to allow it to better reach tight corners.

4) Chisel tip to facilitate cleaning up excesses, cut at a little angle to make filleting easier and with a radius at the toe for shaping the size of fillet you want to use.

Wood Plant Metal

Wood Rectangle Beige Linens Tints and shades


For the job today I decided to use what was referred to in my old shipyard as a "pukemouse" because, well it looks like a mouse and …. well you'll get the idea.

Start by putting your finger into the corner of a plastic bag and stick it into a measuring cup. This will ensure that your glue will be concentrated in a corner.

Water Wood Flooring Floor Road surface


Then pull the rest of the bag well below the rim and as carefully as possible fill with your epoxy. This is of course a technique only used with thickened epoxy which is the only way I ever use it as a glue. The only time I use epoxy clear is as a finish or to lay up cloth.

Water Fluid Gas Circle Art


Tie off the top, snip off a tiny corner, and Voila you have a pukemouse.

Natural material Plant Plastic bag Wood Plastic wrap


Use the pukemouse (now you get it) like a cake decorator to neatly place the glue exactly where you want it.

Wood Gesture Safety glove Flooring Glove


Assemble your joint with whatever fasteners you are using and immediately clean any excess away with the chisel edge of your stick.

Table Wood Beige Floor Flooring


And scrape the excess back into the original mixing cup.

Wood Solvent Hardwood Wood stain Serveware


You can place more thickened epoxy along inside corners to reinforce the joint with a fillet.

Table Wood Chair Flooring Floor


Tool the fillet with the radius corner of your stick until you're happy with it.

Wood Flooring Beige Hardwood Wood stain


Carefully clean the excess with your chisel edge and return the excess to the pot.

Brown Wood Flooring Beige Floor


And you're done. The project is all glued up, there will be little or no sanding, and the only other things with epoxy on them are the glue cup (throw in the garbage), the empty pukemouse (also garbage) and the stick. I wipe the stick off with a paper towel (garbage) and set it aside to use again. I didn't even get any on my gloves this time.

Wood Hardwood Automotive design Composite material Rectangle


Hope some of you find this helpful.

Comments, critiques and questions are always welcome.

Paul
As far as I know Matt, it is a cumulative allergic reaction. It affects some people after minimal exposure and yet others can have lots of exposure and never suffer from it. Once sensitized however you just can't go near it again so it pays to be careful.
 

Attachments

#19 ·
Don't get any on you !

The first rule I try to follow when using epoxies is "Don't get any on you !" and the second one is "Don't get any on your handles !" Basically for more reasons than I need to get into here no one wants to get it on them. The question seems to be how to avoid it.

I've used A LOT of epoxy over the years for everything from gluing hulls together to making wooden fuel tanks, water tanks and even a bathtub and I've developed a number of procedures that help me stay clean.

I happened to have a little epoxy job this morning in the shop and thought it might be a good opportunity to document a few.

First and foremost is the need for a proper glue stick. What difference does it make what I stir my glue with ? you ask. Well none actually but a good glue stick will do many more things for you than just stir your glue. You want to keep the number of epoxy contaminated articles to a minimum so it makes sense to use a multi-functional glue stick. This is what mine look like. I usually spend a bit of time to make them and often use the same one many many times.

The features are:

1) Appropriate length for the job and the container you are using.
-Too short and it gets you sticky.
-Too long and it tips over the glue cup….. and gets everything sticky.

2) Comfortable fit in the hand. Like an artist's brush, you'll be using it for delicate finicky jobs. (really)

3) Wide enough blade to facilitate mixing but narrower further up to allow it to better reach tight corners.

4) Chisel tip to facilitate cleaning up excesses, cut at a little angle to make filleting easier and with a radius at the toe for shaping the size of fillet you want to use.

Wood Plant Metal

Wood Rectangle Beige Linens Tints and shades


For the job today I decided to use what was referred to in my old shipyard as a "pukemouse" because, well it looks like a mouse and …. well you'll get the idea.

Start by putting your finger into the corner of a plastic bag and stick it into a measuring cup. This will ensure that your glue will be concentrated in a corner.

Water Wood Flooring Floor Road surface


Then pull the rest of the bag well below the rim and as carefully as possible fill with your epoxy. This is of course a technique only used with thickened epoxy which is the only way I ever use it as a glue. The only time I use epoxy clear is as a finish or to lay up cloth.

Water Fluid Gas Circle Art


Tie off the top, snip off a tiny corner, and Voila you have a pukemouse.

Natural material Plant Plastic bag Wood Plastic wrap


Use the pukemouse (now you get it) like a cake decorator to neatly place the glue exactly where you want it.

Wood Gesture Safety glove Flooring Glove


Assemble your joint with whatever fasteners you are using and immediately clean any excess away with the chisel edge of your stick.

Table Wood Beige Floor Flooring


And scrape the excess back into the original mixing cup.

Wood Solvent Hardwood Wood stain Serveware


You can place more thickened epoxy along inside corners to reinforce the joint with a fillet.

Table Wood Chair Flooring Floor


Tool the fillet with the radius corner of your stick until you're happy with it.

Wood Flooring Beige Hardwood Wood stain


Carefully clean the excess with your chisel edge and return the excess to the pot.

Brown Wood Flooring Beige Floor


And you're done. The project is all glued up, there will be little or no sanding, and the only other things with epoxy on them are the glue cup (throw in the garbage), the empty pukemouse (also garbage) and the stick. I wipe the stick off with a paper towel (garbage) and set it aside to use again. I didn't even get any on my gloves this time.

Wood Hardwood Automotive design Composite material Rectangle


Hope some of you find this helpful.

Comments, critiques and questions are always welcome.

Paul
Very good tips, Paul.

Lee
 

Attachments

#20 ·
Don't get any on you !

The first rule I try to follow when using epoxies is "Don't get any on you !" and the second one is "Don't get any on your handles !" Basically for more reasons than I need to get into here no one wants to get it on them. The question seems to be how to avoid it.

I've used A LOT of epoxy over the years for everything from gluing hulls together to making wooden fuel tanks, water tanks and even a bathtub and I've developed a number of procedures that help me stay clean.

I happened to have a little epoxy job this morning in the shop and thought it might be a good opportunity to document a few.

First and foremost is the need for a proper glue stick. What difference does it make what I stir my glue with ? you ask. Well none actually but a good glue stick will do many more things for you than just stir your glue. You want to keep the number of epoxy contaminated articles to a minimum so it makes sense to use a multi-functional glue stick. This is what mine look like. I usually spend a bit of time to make them and often use the same one many many times.

The features are:

1) Appropriate length for the job and the container you are using.
-Too short and it gets you sticky.
-Too long and it tips over the glue cup….. and gets everything sticky.

2) Comfortable fit in the hand. Like an artist's brush, you'll be using it for delicate finicky jobs. (really)

3) Wide enough blade to facilitate mixing but narrower further up to allow it to better reach tight corners.

4) Chisel tip to facilitate cleaning up excesses, cut at a little angle to make filleting easier and with a radius at the toe for shaping the size of fillet you want to use.

Wood Plant Metal

Wood Rectangle Beige Linens Tints and shades


For the job today I decided to use what was referred to in my old shipyard as a "pukemouse" because, well it looks like a mouse and …. well you'll get the idea.

Start by putting your finger into the corner of a plastic bag and stick it into a measuring cup. This will ensure that your glue will be concentrated in a corner.

Water Wood Flooring Floor Road surface


Then pull the rest of the bag well below the rim and as carefully as possible fill with your epoxy. This is of course a technique only used with thickened epoxy which is the only way I ever use it as a glue. The only time I use epoxy clear is as a finish or to lay up cloth.

Water Fluid Gas Circle Art


Tie off the top, snip off a tiny corner, and Voila you have a pukemouse.

Natural material Plant Plastic bag Wood Plastic wrap


Use the pukemouse (now you get it) like a cake decorator to neatly place the glue exactly where you want it.

Wood Gesture Safety glove Flooring Glove


Assemble your joint with whatever fasteners you are using and immediately clean any excess away with the chisel edge of your stick.

Table Wood Beige Floor Flooring


And scrape the excess back into the original mixing cup.

Wood Solvent Hardwood Wood stain Serveware


You can place more thickened epoxy along inside corners to reinforce the joint with a fillet.

Table Wood Chair Flooring Floor


Tool the fillet with the radius corner of your stick until you're happy with it.

Wood Flooring Beige Hardwood Wood stain


Carefully clean the excess with your chisel edge and return the excess to the pot.

Brown Wood Flooring Beige Floor


And you're done. The project is all glued up, there will be little or no sanding, and the only other things with epoxy on them are the glue cup (throw in the garbage), the empty pukemouse (also garbage) and the stick. I wipe the stick off with a paper towel (garbage) and set it aside to use again. I didn't even get any on my gloves this time.

Wood Hardwood Automotive design Composite material Rectangle


Hope some of you find this helpful.

Comments, critiques and questions are always welcome.

Paul
Great blog Paul. It's experience like this that you can really only get from those who have it, so thanks for sharing.
 

Attachments

#21 ·
Don't get any on you !

The first rule I try to follow when using epoxies is "Don't get any on you !" and the second one is "Don't get any on your handles !" Basically for more reasons than I need to get into here no one wants to get it on them. The question seems to be how to avoid it.

I've used A LOT of epoxy over the years for everything from gluing hulls together to making wooden fuel tanks, water tanks and even a bathtub and I've developed a number of procedures that help me stay clean.

I happened to have a little epoxy job this morning in the shop and thought it might be a good opportunity to document a few.

First and foremost is the need for a proper glue stick. What difference does it make what I stir my glue with ? you ask. Well none actually but a good glue stick will do many more things for you than just stir your glue. You want to keep the number of epoxy contaminated articles to a minimum so it makes sense to use a multi-functional glue stick. This is what mine look like. I usually spend a bit of time to make them and often use the same one many many times.

The features are:

1) Appropriate length for the job and the container you are using.
-Too short and it gets you sticky.
-Too long and it tips over the glue cup….. and gets everything sticky.

2) Comfortable fit in the hand. Like an artist's brush, you'll be using it for delicate finicky jobs. (really)

3) Wide enough blade to facilitate mixing but narrower further up to allow it to better reach tight corners.

4) Chisel tip to facilitate cleaning up excesses, cut at a little angle to make filleting easier and with a radius at the toe for shaping the size of fillet you want to use.

Wood Plant Metal

Wood Rectangle Beige Linens Tints and shades


For the job today I decided to use what was referred to in my old shipyard as a "pukemouse" because, well it looks like a mouse and …. well you'll get the idea.

Start by putting your finger into the corner of a plastic bag and stick it into a measuring cup. This will ensure that your glue will be concentrated in a corner.

Water Wood Flooring Floor Road surface


Then pull the rest of the bag well below the rim and as carefully as possible fill with your epoxy. This is of course a technique only used with thickened epoxy which is the only way I ever use it as a glue. The only time I use epoxy clear is as a finish or to lay up cloth.

Water Fluid Gas Circle Art


Tie off the top, snip off a tiny corner, and Voila you have a pukemouse.

Natural material Plant Plastic bag Wood Plastic wrap


Use the pukemouse (now you get it) like a cake decorator to neatly place the glue exactly where you want it.

Wood Gesture Safety glove Flooring Glove


Assemble your joint with whatever fasteners you are using and immediately clean any excess away with the chisel edge of your stick.

Table Wood Beige Floor Flooring


And scrape the excess back into the original mixing cup.

Wood Solvent Hardwood Wood stain Serveware


You can place more thickened epoxy along inside corners to reinforce the joint with a fillet.

Table Wood Chair Flooring Floor


Tool the fillet with the radius corner of your stick until you're happy with it.

Wood Flooring Beige Hardwood Wood stain


Carefully clean the excess with your chisel edge and return the excess to the pot.

Brown Wood Flooring Beige Floor


And you're done. The project is all glued up, there will be little or no sanding, and the only other things with epoxy on them are the glue cup (throw in the garbage), the empty pukemouse (also garbage) and the stick. I wipe the stick off with a paper towel (garbage) and set it aside to use again. I didn't even get any on my gloves this time.

Wood Hardwood Automotive design Composite material Rectangle


Hope some of you find this helpful.

Comments, critiques and questions are always welcome.

Paul
Great tips Paul. I've just started venturing into the epoxy world and any help or tips are fantastic.
What do you thicken the epoxy with?
 

Attachments

#22 ·
Don't get any on you !

The first rule I try to follow when using epoxies is "Don't get any on you !" and the second one is "Don't get any on your handles !" Basically for more reasons than I need to get into here no one wants to get it on them. The question seems to be how to avoid it.

I've used A LOT of epoxy over the years for everything from gluing hulls together to making wooden fuel tanks, water tanks and even a bathtub and I've developed a number of procedures that help me stay clean.

I happened to have a little epoxy job this morning in the shop and thought it might be a good opportunity to document a few.

First and foremost is the need for a proper glue stick. What difference does it make what I stir my glue with ? you ask. Well none actually but a good glue stick will do many more things for you than just stir your glue. You want to keep the number of epoxy contaminated articles to a minimum so it makes sense to use a multi-functional glue stick. This is what mine look like. I usually spend a bit of time to make them and often use the same one many many times.

The features are:

1) Appropriate length for the job and the container you are using.
-Too short and it gets you sticky.
-Too long and it tips over the glue cup….. and gets everything sticky.

2) Comfortable fit in the hand. Like an artist's brush, you'll be using it for delicate finicky jobs. (really)

3) Wide enough blade to facilitate mixing but narrower further up to allow it to better reach tight corners.

4) Chisel tip to facilitate cleaning up excesses, cut at a little angle to make filleting easier and with a radius at the toe for shaping the size of fillet you want to use.

Wood Plant Metal

Wood Rectangle Beige Linens Tints and shades


For the job today I decided to use what was referred to in my old shipyard as a "pukemouse" because, well it looks like a mouse and …. well you'll get the idea.

Start by putting your finger into the corner of a plastic bag and stick it into a measuring cup. This will ensure that your glue will be concentrated in a corner.

Water Wood Flooring Floor Road surface


Then pull the rest of the bag well below the rim and as carefully as possible fill with your epoxy. This is of course a technique only used with thickened epoxy which is the only way I ever use it as a glue. The only time I use epoxy clear is as a finish or to lay up cloth.

Water Fluid Gas Circle Art


Tie off the top, snip off a tiny corner, and Voila you have a pukemouse.

Natural material Plant Plastic bag Wood Plastic wrap


Use the pukemouse (now you get it) like a cake decorator to neatly place the glue exactly where you want it.

Wood Gesture Safety glove Flooring Glove


Assemble your joint with whatever fasteners you are using and immediately clean any excess away with the chisel edge of your stick.

Table Wood Beige Floor Flooring


And scrape the excess back into the original mixing cup.

Wood Solvent Hardwood Wood stain Serveware


You can place more thickened epoxy along inside corners to reinforce the joint with a fillet.

Table Wood Chair Flooring Floor


Tool the fillet with the radius corner of your stick until you're happy with it.

Wood Flooring Beige Hardwood Wood stain


Carefully clean the excess with your chisel edge and return the excess to the pot.

Brown Wood Flooring Beige Floor


And you're done. The project is all glued up, there will be little or no sanding, and the only other things with epoxy on them are the glue cup (throw in the garbage), the empty pukemouse (also garbage) and the stick. I wipe the stick off with a paper towel (garbage) and set it aside to use again. I didn't even get any on my gloves this time.

Wood Hardwood Automotive design Composite material Rectangle


Hope some of you find this helpful.

Comments, critiques and questions are always welcome.

Paul
I have very little experience thickening epoxy, but West Marine has a variety of additives (e.g. beads, fibers) that thicken the mixture for different purposes. I would be interested in learning from the experiences of other LJ's in this area.
 

Attachments

#23 ·
Don't get any on you !

The first rule I try to follow when using epoxies is "Don't get any on you !" and the second one is "Don't get any on your handles !" Basically for more reasons than I need to get into here no one wants to get it on them. The question seems to be how to avoid it.

I've used A LOT of epoxy over the years for everything from gluing hulls together to making wooden fuel tanks, water tanks and even a bathtub and I've developed a number of procedures that help me stay clean.

I happened to have a little epoxy job this morning in the shop and thought it might be a good opportunity to document a few.

First and foremost is the need for a proper glue stick. What difference does it make what I stir my glue with ? you ask. Well none actually but a good glue stick will do many more things for you than just stir your glue. You want to keep the number of epoxy contaminated articles to a minimum so it makes sense to use a multi-functional glue stick. This is what mine look like. I usually spend a bit of time to make them and often use the same one many many times.

The features are:

1) Appropriate length for the job and the container you are using.
-Too short and it gets you sticky.
-Too long and it tips over the glue cup….. and gets everything sticky.

2) Comfortable fit in the hand. Like an artist's brush, you'll be using it for delicate finicky jobs. (really)

3) Wide enough blade to facilitate mixing but narrower further up to allow it to better reach tight corners.

4) Chisel tip to facilitate cleaning up excesses, cut at a little angle to make filleting easier and with a radius at the toe for shaping the size of fillet you want to use.

Wood Plant Metal

Wood Rectangle Beige Linens Tints and shades


For the job today I decided to use what was referred to in my old shipyard as a "pukemouse" because, well it looks like a mouse and …. well you'll get the idea.

Start by putting your finger into the corner of a plastic bag and stick it into a measuring cup. This will ensure that your glue will be concentrated in a corner.

Water Wood Flooring Floor Road surface


Then pull the rest of the bag well below the rim and as carefully as possible fill with your epoxy. This is of course a technique only used with thickened epoxy which is the only way I ever use it as a glue. The only time I use epoxy clear is as a finish or to lay up cloth.

Water Fluid Gas Circle Art


Tie off the top, snip off a tiny corner, and Voila you have a pukemouse.

Natural material Plant Plastic bag Wood Plastic wrap


Use the pukemouse (now you get it) like a cake decorator to neatly place the glue exactly where you want it.

Wood Gesture Safety glove Flooring Glove


Assemble your joint with whatever fasteners you are using and immediately clean any excess away with the chisel edge of your stick.

Table Wood Beige Floor Flooring


And scrape the excess back into the original mixing cup.

Wood Solvent Hardwood Wood stain Serveware


You can place more thickened epoxy along inside corners to reinforce the joint with a fillet.

Table Wood Chair Flooring Floor


Tool the fillet with the radius corner of your stick until you're happy with it.

Wood Flooring Beige Hardwood Wood stain


Carefully clean the excess with your chisel edge and return the excess to the pot.

Brown Wood Flooring Beige Floor


And you're done. The project is all glued up, there will be little or no sanding, and the only other things with epoxy on them are the glue cup (throw in the garbage), the empty pukemouse (also garbage) and the stick. I wipe the stick off with a paper towel (garbage) and set it aside to use again. I didn't even get any on my gloves this time.

Wood Hardwood Automotive design Composite material Rectangle


Hope some of you find this helpful.

Comments, critiques and questions are always welcome.

Paul
This was a fantastic tutorial Paul. I'm sorry I missed it the first time around. I've never like working with epoxy because of it messiness, but your demonstration shows that it can be done in a very controlled and clean way. many thanks for sharing this. Now I just need a project requiring epoxy.
 

Attachments

#24 ·
Mixing and Additives

When I posted the first blog entry here some questions about mixing and additives arose. I find that often useful answers to good questions get lost in a list of comments when they could be much more easily found in a separate post so here is that separate post.

Disclaimer: Although I have had extensive experience in the use and handling of epoxies, I have not tried all the various brands and manufacturers' products. My formulator of choice was Industrial Formulators of Canada for the following reasons.
1) The company was owned and operated by the chemist who designed the formulations and he was always available to answer questions, a brilliant man.
2) For the purposes that I needed epoxy (boat building), they had the best line of products based on actual chemical characteristics.
IFC has been absorbed by System Three who now carry the old IFC products.

There are lots of manufacturers and formulators and each has its fans. I do not want to get into an argument about who is better than who. The information here is pretty generic and should apply to epoxies in general.

Mixing Epoxy:

When you mix epoxy you are combining two chemical reagents that join together to form a new molecule. The molecule is formed at a fixed ratio that may be 1:1, 2:1 or some other. The important thing is that as cross-linking takes place and the new polymer molecules form, the reagents are used up at an exact ratio. When the last molecule is cross-linked the reaction is over and any un-linked reagents remaining in the mix will have a detrimental effect on the properties of the polymer. This is why it is important to mix as accurately as possible.

Perhaps because of the widespread use of polyester products like fiberglassing resin, Bondo and such there exists a belief that adding more or less hardener is an acceptable way to hasten or slow the cure. This works for polyester because it is a catalyst reaction. It is not a good idea with epoxy. You may change the cure rate a little by increasing or decreasing the number and proximity of available partner ions, but when the reaction is over you will have remaining un-linked chemicals in the mix. They may affect water resistance, strength, hardness, etc.

My personal preference for getting an accurate mix is to use graduated cups or tubs. I have used the metered hand pumps but find them unreliable when the materials are cold particularly if one is thicker than the other at normal temperatures.

Blend Completely

Follow the instructions. The thicker the components, the more important it is that you mix thoroughly and scrape the sides of the container frequently like the label says. The glue stick that I described in the first blog entry has one side left straight for this purpose. For me , hand mixing affords a better feel for the mix and allows me to make sure that all the reagents are involved.

Blend the clear epoxy fully as per instructions before adding any additives. Removing poorly mixed goo from a large area can be a real pain…...don't ask.

Additives

There are two general kinds of additives. One is absorbed by the epoxy and makes little difference to the volume when added and the other is not absorbed and increases the volume by however much you add.

Fillers are the non-absorbed additives and are used to make epoxy go a little farther or to give better sanding and gap filling qualities. These are very handy in fairing slightly uneven surfaces like boat hulls or the pattern left on the surface after sanding a fiberglass cloth layup. They are mostly various sizes of micro glass spheres and the make sanding much easier.

Thickeners are the additives that are absorbed by the epoxy and they can greatly increase it's ability to stay where you put it. Epoxies in general heat up as they cure and become less viscous. The right additive (my favorite is called mini-fibers) can dramatically reduce the "sag" or eliminate it completely without compromising the strength of the joint. Fillets made with mini-fibers are very strong and can be used as structural joint. I often mix some mini-fibers for thickening and some micro-spheres to aid sanding in the same mix. There are all sorts of properties you can coax out of one epoxy with the right additives.

Well, I didn't mean for this to be this long or this dry, but I can't really find anything that I want to cut so I'll be kind and stop here.

I hope it hasn't been too thick and that this will help some of you better understand epoxy.

If anyone has specific questions that I can help with, please let me know.

Thanks for reading.
Questions, comments and critiques are always welcome.

Paul
 
#38 ·
A Little Trick with Cloth

This is maybe my best epoxy trick. The example here only scratches the surface of the appilcations for the concept but will serve to illustrate it. The underlying and enabling fact is that epoxy won't stick to polyethylene (simple roll plastic). In this example that isn't even very important but I'll tie the usefulness of that in later.

In my little project I have decided to reinforce the bottom corners of the box because it will have to carry a big old fat kitty and I wouldn't want her falling out because the bottom gave way. I don't want any framing so the best way to do the reinforcing will be to add a strip of 6 oz. cloth on the outside corners. That can be a messy job sometimes but it doesn't have to be.

Lay out a strip of plastic that is a few inches bigger on all sides than the bit of cloth you will be using.
Lay the cloth on top dry.

Wood Rectangle Font Automotive exterior Bumper


Pour on some clear epoxy

Wood Office ruler Cup Ruler Flooring


and wet out the cloth with a Bondo spreader.

Gas Auto part Plastic Plastic wrap Metal


When fully wetted out the cloth will be almost invisible. Then you can pick up the whole thing, plastic, cloth and epoxy

Wood Textile Sleeve Floor Safety glove


and apply it to the work, carefully placing it exactly where you want it. This is a huge advantage in places where you need to glass or repair an overhead surface.

Table Glove Safety glove Wood Flooring


You can now smooth the cloth out and drive any air bubbles out by simply running your fingers or a spreader over the plastic. No muss, no fuss and no need to get any on you or to have it running down the vertical surface.

Glove Wood Table Flooring Hardwood


At this point you can leave the plastic on and it will prevent any shifting or glue runs even if you have too much glue. When cured you can just pull it off and you'll have a nice shiny smooth surface with no cloth pattern. If however you want as I did to go on and do the other three corners, you can pull it off now.

Glove Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood


And re-smooth the cloth surface with your spreader. This will leave some cloth pattern but in this case I don't care.

Wood Table Flooring Floor Wood stain


Here all four sides are done and there is no mess at all. My gloves aren't even sticky.

Table Wood Tool Rectangle Flooring


Ok you may say, What's so great about this simple trick? Well it's about where you can take the concept.

Here's another example from about ten years ago. One of my Harbour Ferries http://lumberjocks.com/projects/53302 had an altercation with a hard thing and lost. This is what it looked like when I got it home at about 10:00 one Saturday Night in August. This is peak season and Sunday was our biggest day. Thanks Murphy

Motor vehicle Font Bumper Asphalt Gas


After an hour or so I had fashioned a plywood piece to cover the break on the inside (way up under and behind the front seat backs), covered it with epoxy and squeezed it into place with a piece of reddi rod, some washers and some nuts.

Art Bow Entertainment Event Font


Then I ran screws in through the hull into the new backer and removed the reddi rod. At this point the repair is about half done structurally but looked awful aesthetically.

So here's where the trick comes in. I laid out a piece of plastic larger than the damaged area and laid up on it the following: First a layer of thickened epoxy, then a layer of six oz. cloth (a little smaller), then a piece of heavier bi-axial cloth (smaller again) all saturated in clear epoxy and finally a little more thickened epoxy. I took the whole patch and applied it to the "wound". Then I screwed a layer of 1/4" plywood over the plastic. The plywood extended out past the damage and forced the epoxy/ cloth/ putty patch to form a fair curve and conform to the original shape of the hull in that area. By about 1:00 AM the job was done.

In the morning (about 6:00) I removed the 1/4 plywood, peeled the plastic, gave it a quick sanding and filled any screw holes with epoxy putty. It then looked like this.

Paint Art Font Painting Rectangle


When the boat performed the Harbour Ferry Ballet at 10:00 AM on Sunday the paint was still a little wet but it soon dried.

All this repair work in one night was only possible because of this little trick. I have used more or less the same procedure to repair all kinds of dings and bashes but this is the only one I have photos of.

Thanks for looking in.

All questions, comments, critiques are welcome.

Paul
 

Attachments

#39 ·
A Little Trick with Cloth

This is maybe my best epoxy trick. The example here only scratches the surface of the appilcations for the concept but will serve to illustrate it. The underlying and enabling fact is that epoxy won't stick to polyethylene (simple roll plastic). In this example that isn't even very important but I'll tie the usefulness of that in later.

In my little project I have decided to reinforce the bottom corners of the box because it will have to carry a big old fat kitty and I wouldn't want her falling out because the bottom gave way. I don't want any framing so the best way to do the reinforcing will be to add a strip of 6 oz. cloth on the outside corners. That can be a messy job sometimes but it doesn't have to be.

Lay out a strip of plastic that is a few inches bigger on all sides than the bit of cloth you will be using.
Lay the cloth on top dry.

Wood Rectangle Font Automotive exterior Bumper


Pour on some clear epoxy

Wood Office ruler Cup Ruler Flooring


and wet out the cloth with a Bondo spreader.

Gas Auto part Plastic Plastic wrap Metal


When fully wetted out the cloth will be almost invisible. Then you can pick up the whole thing, plastic, cloth and epoxy

Wood Textile Sleeve Floor Safety glove


and apply it to the work, carefully placing it exactly where you want it. This is a huge advantage in places where you need to glass or repair an overhead surface.

Table Glove Safety glove Wood Flooring


You can now smooth the cloth out and drive any air bubbles out by simply running your fingers or a spreader over the plastic. No muss, no fuss and no need to get any on you or to have it running down the vertical surface.

Glove Wood Table Flooring Hardwood


At this point you can leave the plastic on and it will prevent any shifting or glue runs even if you have too much glue. When cured you can just pull it off and you'll have a nice shiny smooth surface with no cloth pattern. If however you want as I did to go on and do the other three corners, you can pull it off now.

Glove Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood


And re-smooth the cloth surface with your spreader. This will leave some cloth pattern but in this case I don't care.

Wood Table Flooring Floor Wood stain


Here all four sides are done and there is no mess at all. My gloves aren't even sticky.

Table Wood Tool Rectangle Flooring


Ok you may say, What's so great about this simple trick? Well it's about where you can take the concept.

Here's another example from about ten years ago. One of my Harbour Ferries http://lumberjocks.com/projects/53302 had an altercation with a hard thing and lost. This is what it looked like when I got it home at about 10:00 one Saturday Night in August. This is peak season and Sunday was our biggest day. Thanks Murphy

Motor vehicle Font Bumper Asphalt Gas


After an hour or so I had fashioned a plywood piece to cover the break on the inside (way up under and behind the front seat backs), covered it with epoxy and squeezed it into place with a piece of reddi rod, some washers and some nuts.

Art Bow Entertainment Event Font


Then I ran screws in through the hull into the new backer and removed the reddi rod. At this point the repair is about half done structurally but looked awful aesthetically.

So here's where the trick comes in. I laid out a piece of plastic larger than the damaged area and laid up on it the following: First a layer of thickened epoxy, then a layer of six oz. cloth (a little smaller), then a piece of heavier bi-axial cloth (smaller again) all saturated in clear epoxy and finally a little more thickened epoxy. I took the whole patch and applied it to the "wound". Then I screwed a layer of 1/4" plywood over the plastic. The plywood extended out past the damage and forced the epoxy/ cloth/ putty patch to form a fair curve and conform to the original shape of the hull in that area. By about 1:00 AM the job was done.

In the morning (about 6:00) I removed the 1/4 plywood, peeled the plastic, gave it a quick sanding and filled any screw holes with epoxy putty. It then looked like this.

Paint Art Font Painting Rectangle


When the boat performed the Harbour Ferry Ballet at 10:00 AM on Sunday the paint was still a little wet but it soon dried.

All this repair work in one night was only possible because of this little trick. I have used more or less the same procedure to repair all kinds of dings and bashes but this is the only one I have photos of.

Thanks for looking in.

All questions, comments, critiques are welcome.

Paul
You can really walk the walk, Paul.

Thanks for the tip,
Steve
 

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