My Journey As A Creative Designer - Woodworking and Beyond #588: Today It's Your Turn - I Would Like Your Input

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Blog entry by Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) posted 01-20-2012 02:17 PM 5467 reads 0 times favorited 17 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 587: One More Day of Drawing . . . Part 588 of My Journey As A Creative Designer - Woodworking and Beyond series Part 589: Wood Glue Review »

I pretty much finished up my drawings yesterday. I just have a little tweaking to do today and then I can start cutting. So the day is pretty mapped out for me and I should have something to show for it tomorrow.

I do have a question for you all though . . .

Lately, I have been asked quite a bit about which glue to use in the smaller type of projects that I frequently do. I am looking for your input on this.

I am going to ask you to tell me about your favorite glue for smaller applications (boxes, scroll work, indoor vs. outdoor, etc.)

Perhaps you could comment and let me know what you like best. Use the brand names if you can and let me know if it dries clear or not and which applications you use it for. (Also, if you are located outside the USA, which country you are from – many of the people that ask are from Europe, Australia and other countries and your input would be really valuable!)

It doesn’t have to be long, but I think it would make a good discussion and we can all learn a lot from each other.

I would really like to hear your thoughts! Thanks so much!

Have a wonderfully creative day!

-- Designer/Artist/Teacher. Owner of Sheila Landry Designs ( Scroll saw, wood working and painting patterns and surfaces. "Knowledge is Power"

17 comments so far

View Roger's profile


20928 posts in 2799 days

#1 posted 01-20-2012 03:15 PM

I like Titebond III because of its all around everything thing glue, and it has a longer open assembly time. I’ve had good luck with it. Here is a copy of what Titebond says about it: Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue is the first one-part, water cleanup wood glue ever offered that is proven waterproof. The waterproof formula passes the ANSI/HPVA Type I water-resistance specification and offers superior bond strength, longer open assembly time and lower application temperature.

Titebond III is non-toxic, solvent free and cleans up with water – safer to use than traditional waterproof wood glues. It provides strong initial tack, sands easily without softening and is FDA approved for indirect food contact (cutting boards). The ultimate in wood glues – ideal for both interior and exterior.

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Keep your dust collector fed.

View BritBoxmaker's profile


4611 posts in 3032 days

#2 posted 01-20-2012 03:27 PM

Most of my work ie patterns, mitre joints – PVA, dries clear, not waterproof though.
Stuff I need done quickly, including small parts – Viscous CA (superglue),dries clear, waterproof.
Cutting boards – Titebond III, waterproof, dries with a dark visible line.

As you know I live in the UK, not the driest of environments.

-- Martyn -- Boxologist, Pattern Juggler and Candyman of the visually challenging.

View KnotCurser's profile


2025 posts in 3064 days

#3 posted 01-20-2012 03:36 PM

With all the different projects I make, I primarily only use two different glues.

Tightbond III and Loctite’s “Professional Liquid” Super Glue

I think Roger described Tightbond perfectly. It’s the perfect all around glue. It does have it’s Achilles Heel though – a long drying time. That’s a good thing when you need it, but it’s painful when you don’t.

That’s where the Super Glue comes in. 100% of the glue I use on my scrollwork is Super Glue – if the blade cracks a piece out and it needs to be re-attached or if a running crack needs to be reinforced. I also use it to affix the felt to the back of every cutting I make. I even affix the metal picture hangers to back of the cuttings with super glue – I have never had one fall off yet, however they can be “popped” off if the owner wishes to.

Super Glue certainly does not bond as well as wood glue does, but it dries SO much faster! I can finish a dozen or more cuttings in ten minuets using super glue – I have NO idea how long it would take with wood glue but I think it would be hours.

So, If I had to pick my favorite it would be a tie. Tightbond AND Super Glue


-- Robert Rhoades WoodWorks / Email: /

View jerrells's profile


918 posts in 2880 days

#4 posted 01-20-2012 03:39 PM

I have used Elmer’s Wood Glue for ever. It is the old yellow glue that, most times, can be cleaned up with a damp rag. Now that I do the small fretcut stuff I have not changed but would like to consider it. I did purchase one of the small glue bottles (Mini Glu-Bot) from Rockler that helps me put it just where I need it.

This will be a great post and I look forward to all the input.

-- Just learning the craft my Lord and Savior Jesus Christ practiced.

View hairy's profile


2701 posts in 3528 days

#5 posted 01-20-2012 05:26 PM

I use Titebond 3 for almost everything. I am very satisfied with it.

-- My reality check bounced...

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

10479 posts in 3424 days

#6 posted 01-20-2012 05:43 PM

For general use, Titebond ll. For small, hard to clamp pieces, either Loctite’s CA or, a little of the CA to bond quickly and hold the piece while the Titebond cures. i.e. for intarsia pieces.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View Sheila Landry (scrollgirl)'s profile

Sheila Landry (scrollgirl)

9228 posts in 2915 days

#7 posted 01-20-2012 07:05 PM

Thanks all of you for your input! Keep those comments coming! ;)


-- Designer/Artist/Teacher. Owner of Sheila Landry Designs ( Scroll saw, wood working and painting patterns and surfaces. "Knowledge is Power"

View Ryan Haasen's profile

Ryan Haasen

385 posts in 2396 days

#8 posted 01-20-2012 07:15 PM

I also like to use tight bond, but I just use the original, it works good enough for me because my projects don’t take much of a beating. Many of my projects require multiples of the same piece that need to be cut on the scroll saw. So I lightly glue layers together with a hot glue gun, it make a great temporary glue, but I would never use it a a final glue.

-- Ryan

View Woodbutcher3's profile


403 posts in 2882 days

#9 posted 01-20-2012 07:23 PM

All the points considered above, some of these show a glue line when trying to put a finish on them. Sometimes that is a consideration when trying to finish off a piece.
What I learned in the chip carving arena is that if you put a layer of clear wipe on PU(Bartley’s is th brand I have used ~, the glue lines don’t show and you can put succesive layerrs of color PU that will anhere to the clear without revealing the glue lines underneath.

-- Rod ~ There's never enough time to finish a project, but there's always time to start another one.

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2656 posts in 2917 days

#10 posted 01-20-2012 09:44 PM

I make a lot of small cedar and oak boxes with inlays and I use Elmer’s white glue exclusively. It dries clear and holds quickly. Not water proof but I am not building a boat. I mix it with sanding powder from my orbital sander to make an excellent filler for small cracks or imperfections. Oh Yes…...... it is $16 a gallon.

-- Website is No PHD just a DD214 and a GED

View Leldon's profile


67 posts in 2868 days

#11 posted 01-20-2012 09:44 PM

For scrolling stuff I use Alene’s tacky glue. The brown bottle. I haven’t ever had a problem with anything coming undone yet with it. For glueing wood together I use titebond.

View huntter2022's profile


275 posts in 2611 days

#12 posted 01-20-2012 10:05 PM

I use Aleene’s Tacky Glue it dries clear water clean up . I use it on projects with several pieces , I use Titebond wood glue for outdoor project or projects acceptable to water .

To speed up assembling I will use a drop or two of super glue , with the other glue .

For patterns , larger one I use 3M spray adhesive , for small patterns I use a glue stick the same one you send your child to school with it also is good for when a pattern lifts up just dab press and go .
I’m from the USA

Sheila great ideal , so many glues out there now . hate to use a different glue and have a project fall apart . So I’m going to say it is personel preference


-- David ; "BE SAFE BE HAPPY" Brockport , NY

View MrsN's profile


986 posts in 3521 days

#13 posted 01-20-2012 10:29 PM

I use a lot of super glue. I usually buy the big bottle from rockler but I have been known to buy out the little tubes at the dollar store (although sometimes they won’t let me, they are worried I am up to no good)
I like the speed of superglue. It sets and I can get back to work quickly.
I do have a bottle of Alene’s for scrolling stuff, and a bottle of titebond for more structural components.
I also occationally use hot-glue sticks for projects. It is really quick and the high-temp glue is pretty strong.
I usually use epoxy if I am attaching a piece of metal or plastic to a piece of wood and I actually do that alot.
most of my projects don’t need to be really structurally strong, just not fall apart.

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

10096 posts in 4048 days

#14 posted 01-20-2012 11:23 PM

Yep, Titebond 3 for general wood gluing.

Small part gluing, I like CA Thick ‘super glue’ and using the quick-set spray makes it go even faster (instant)... and don’t forget to have some DeBinder so you unglue your fingers when they get glued together! LOL

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: ... My Small Gallery:"

View John in SD's profile

John in SD

140 posts in 3808 days

#15 posted 01-21-2012 03:21 AM

I use Aleeneā€™s Tacky Glue for scrolling too….....great stuff and water clean up and quite inexpensive

-- Life used to be soooo much simpler!!!!

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