LumberJocks

Mounting Live Edge Turning

  • Advertise with us
Blog entry by scrappy posted 1477 days ago 4024 reads 2 times favorited 11 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Just thought I would post a little blog on how I mount a Live Edge Turning in order to finish off the bottom of the piece.

When starting your tun, you can use a turning plate or chuck to hold the bottom and turn the outside and inside. But when you want to finish off the piece, that live edge doesn’t give you anywhere to grip. I saw one of these mounts in the WoodTurnersCatalog.com Mine is a LOT cheesier design, but only cost penny’s to make.

Started with a scrap of wood, a bolt, nut, and washer. Added a no slip pad for friction.

Live Edge Jig Top

Cut wood to a circle.(don’t have to be real accurate with this as you will turn it later) Drilled and countersunk bolt head, and mounted bolt.

Live Edge Jig Bottom

Chucked the bolt up in the Jacobs Chuck and turned the disk to desired size. Needs to be big enough to give max. grip on bowl but not too big. Also tapered the edge to match (or close to) the taper on the inside of the bowl. After that I added the “No Slip Pad”, (mine is an old router pad)

Live Edge Jig with Pad

It is now ready to use. I just chuck it in my Jacobs Chuck.

Live Edge Jig Mounted

Put your work piece in place. The tapered edge will help you to get it centered.

Live Edge With Bowl

Put the tail stock against the bottom of the piece tightly, with the live center, to hold it in place.

Live Edge With Bowl and Tail Stock

Notice I don’t have a “Cone Center”. I just made a cone out of wood and put it on the live center. As long as it is seated good you don’t get wobble.

Now you are ready to turn the bottom of your piece. I turn mine with a step at the edge, and a relief in the bottom. That way if there is any movement/warp later, it is only making contact with the table at the very edge and is easy to level with a little sandpaper.

Live Edge Bottom

Hope this help all of you who have been hesitant to try a live edge.

The main things to remember:
You need to make your disk small enough to hold your piece.
You need to make the entire jig long enough so your piece clears the head stock.
This is ONLY for light cleaning of the bottom. NOT FOR HEAVY DUTY TURNING.
Always use your tail stock to hold anything that is in the head sock with a moris taper. It WILL come loose!

Have lots of fun and try new things!

Thank You
Scrappy

-- Scrap Wood's the best...the projects are smaller, and so is the mess!



11 comments so far

View Raftermonkey's profile

Raftermonkey

560 posts in 1547 days


#1 posted 1477 days ago

Thanks scrappy, I’ll be giving this a shot in the near future.

-- -Zeke- "I hate to rush off, but I gotta go see a man about a log"

View Seer's profile

Seer

301 posts in 2277 days


#2 posted 1477 days ago

Cool idea Dan I like it now just waiting for my adapter to come in on my new chuck

-- www.cabinfevercreations.com

View jack1's profile

jack1

1919 posts in 2662 days


#3 posted 1477 days ago

neat

-- jack -- ...measure once, curse twice!

View sedcokid's profile

sedcokid

2672 posts in 2233 days


#4 posted 1477 days ago

Good idea will keep it in mind for the future use.

-- Chuck Emery, Michigan,

View BarbS's profile

BarbS

2434 posts in 2720 days


#5 posted 1477 days ago

Thanks, Scrappy.. even your step-edge at the outer bottom is new to me; that design idea would apply to platters also, and is a good one to plan for later warpage correction. Good advice, and a handy jig! Thanks.

-- http://barbsid.blogspot.com/

View scrappy's profile

scrappy

3505 posts in 2065 days


#6 posted 1477 days ago

Thanks everyone. Glad this info helps.

I have used this type of mount on a vase also. Just had to make the pad smaller to fit in the neck.

Barbs, I can’t take credit for the bottom edge design. I noticed it on my stoneware plates and bowls. hahaha

Thanks again.

Scrappy

-- Scrap Wood's the best...the projects are smaller, and so is the mess!

View WoodArtbyJR's profile

WoodArtbyJR

428 posts in 1600 days


#7 posted 1477 days ago

You mentioned this to me the other day and I couldn’t quite see it in my minds eye. Click, the light just went on and now I understand about the many bottom pieces suggestion. I was about to buy one of these but you just saved me $16 plus shipping. Thanks, this will make a nice addition to my many ways of finishing off the bottom. This might even topp the list, especially for natural edged bowls when there’s nothing to grab on to. Saw a bunch of that no slip pad at Goodwill today and it was very cheap.

-- Jim Roberts, Port Orchard Washington

View Loucarb's profile

Loucarb

2388 posts in 2080 days


#8 posted 1476 days ago

Great info Scrappy.

View brunob's profile

brunob

2275 posts in 2804 days


#9 posted 1476 days ago

Thanks for the info. I’ll try this one out.

-- Bruce from Central New York...now, if you'll pardon me, I have some sawdust to make.

View eddy's profile

eddy

926 posts in 1999 days


#10 posted 1473 days ago

cool idea thanks for sharing

-- self proclaimed copycat

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

11329 posts in 1740 days


#11 posted 1413 days ago

Hi Dan. Thanks for the blog. When I was just starting to turn, I asked my mentor, Dick Wilson, “how do you finish the bottom of a turned bowl once you have the inside and outside turned?”. He said to make a jam chuck similar to the one you have mounted in the Jacobs chuck. But the way I make them is to get a scrap piece of wood and turn a spigot on it to fit in my 4 jaw chuck ( with an 8 degree taper on it). Then I mount the wood in the chuck and turn it to the shape you have and put leather strips or some of that white rubber shelf lining material on it to “drive” the piece. I put a center in the bottom and turn it- just leaving a little nub on the bottom. I chisel or saw off the nub and use a small round sanding disc on a Dremel to finish off the bottom so there is no mark in the center.

I mention this because I get nervous when turning something with it hanging far out away from the head- I get vibration and run-out that makes my piece run off center. but some of the jam chucks need to be long to have the rim of the turning clear the head.

Thanks for sharing and this will help others that have had to find this out for the first time like I did.

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

Have your say...

You must be signed in to post the comments.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase