Shot Glass Display Cabinet #4: Ready to hang on a wall...

I still think it’s cool

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

That looks awesome! I’ve been looking around for something like this. I would like to build my own, but I am not very experienced. Do you know where I could find plans on how to build something like this?

Thanks for the comment. I do not know of any plans per se, but if you want dimensions, etc., let me know. I just designed this based on the dimensions and number of shot glasses and used my usual sketch pad/pencil to work it out.

-- GSY from N. Idaho

Dimensions would be great, thanks. I have a little over a hundred shot glasses that I’ve collected, but I want to keep my first display case small just to try it out. Kind of like a trial run I guess. What you built is exactly what I have had in mind, only difference is that I plan on putting a mirror in behind the shelves. The mirror I have right now is about two feet wide and three feet high, but I’m not sure if it’s going to be the one I end up using. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for taking the time to help me out.

All material 4/4 milled to 3/4. Back: 1/4 ply
Interior dimensions: 30”H x 20”W x 4”D
Exterior dimensions: 33”H x 23.375”W x 6.75”D (includes moulding)
Main carcass pieces: Top/Bottom: 21.5” x 5” Sides: 31.5×5”
Back is set in ~1” from the back (Ply thickness plus 3/4). This gives a 3/4” recess to bring the french cleat flush with the back edges. I thought about putting in a mirror as well. I decided on the wood back and interior lighting.
The main carcass is assembled as outlined in the blog. I went with dovetails for strength given the potential weight.
The door dimensions are: 29.75”H x 21.5”W
Once the main carcass with back was glued up, I glued a 3/4×3/4 strip to the front edge of the top and bottom to extend them. (that little exercise was due to a change in design on the fly…never a good idea). I installed the cleat in the back with glue and screws from the top. Then, I attached the top and bottom caps (hiding the screws) and applied the moulding (hiding the joinery details). The door is made with a raised panel router set, but could just as easily be done with grooves and stub tenons on the table saw.
Finish is General Finishes Arm-R-Seal wipe on poly (6 coats), then rubbed out with 0000 steel wool and wax.
I installed a battery operated LED lighting system in the top that is hidden by the door’s upper rail. While the LED light is somewhat cold/blue, it is balanced out nicely by the warmth of the wood.

Hope that helps.

-- GSY from N. Idaho

Wow, that was great! That was more information than I was expecting so it will definitely help out a lot. Thank you for taking the time to help me with this. About how much did the supplies cost you so I have an idea on how to budget myself? I think you did such a great job that I would consider paying you to build me one lol.

- Paul

No problem…that’s what LJ is all about. I had about $150.00 in total supplies: $50 for the glass (largest cost due to the polished edges of the glass shelves), $40 for the wood (from my local wood monger and not HD or Lowes which charge more for lower grade material), $20 for the lights, and about $30 in hardware. I also figure in sand paper, finishing supplies, etc. I sold it for $300, which based on what you can find online for $250, is a very reasonable deal. She wants another one now for her international collection and expansion. I’d be happy to build you one as well….for a price. However, its much more satisfying for both of us to see what you come up with on your own!

-- GSY from N. Idaho

Thanks again. I’m going to try it out. The only real experience I have working with wood is putting some molding in a house and raising the celling out on the deck, nothing that really hard. This should get pretty interesting. We’ll see, thank you for all your help.

- Paul