WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS

Pure tung oil. Not tung oil finish, pure tung oil. Thin it 3 parts tung to 1 part mineral spirits and put a coat a day on for a week. Then recoat about every other month for 6 months. Then you just have to recoat it about once a year. There’s no finish to flake off, so there’s no prep, just rub in the new application.

-- Tim -- http://tmuli.com

I’ve used Marine Spar Varnish with success. If you can only find a “gloss variety” the last coat may be “dulled” with steel wool. What ever you use make sure it has UV protection.
Here’s a source: http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/siteMap.do?action=map2&catId=36

-- Only the Shadow knows....................

Wanting the wood to “show its stuff”, from my experience, would not include a flat or even semi gloss finish. From anything other than a straight on view, the flats tend to diffuse light and lose detail. I like the idea of either a rub in or rub on finish that won’t reflect on it’s own, but can be buffed to a good luster. Whether it’s a one time application or one you re-apply periodically is personal preference.
I’ve been happy with an equal parts mix of boiled linseed oil, polyurethane varnish, and turpentine. -SST

-- Accuracy is not in your power tool, it's in you

I would recommend gloss spar urethane. If you don’t want the glossy finish, rub it down with steel wool after the finish has cured. Gloss finishes are more durable than satin or semi.

-- My favorite piece is my last one, my best piece is my next one.

I’d use satin spar varnish with UV protection.

-- Bruce from Central New York

I agree with John Gray. Use the “Marine Spar Varnish” from Jamestown Distributors. I used one of the Epifanes varnishes on some white oak garden chairs several years ago and they still look great.

-- "A goal without a plan is a wish."

Don’t forget the UV protection!