BACK IN MY PITT STATE DAYS, MY FINISHING PROF BRUCE JACKSON ALWAYS SAID THAT FINISHING IS WHAT MAKES THE PROJECT. BOY IS THAT THE TRUTH. I HAVE HEARD IT SAID MORE THEN ONCE THAT YOU SHOULD TAKE AS LONG TO FINISH A PROJECT AS YOU TAKE TO MAKE IT.
I DO KNOW THAT BY THE TIME MOST OF US GET TO THE FINISH STAGE OF THE PROJECT WE ARE TO EXCITED TO TAKE OUR TIME, SO THE FINISH SUFFERS.
WE ALL HAVE OUR FAVORITE TYPE OF FINISH. DO WE USE A SEALER OR NOT, DO WE BRUSH, WIPE OR SPRAY. MOST OF US DON’T HAVE ROOM FOR A SPRAY BOOTH SO THAT LEAVES BRUSH OR WIPE.
TRICKS FOR BRUSHING, PRE SOAK YOUR BRUSH IN THINNER BEFORE USE, IT HELPS WITH CLEAN UP AND KEEPS THE BRISTELS FOR SOAKING UP AND DRYING OUT TO FAST WITH THE FINISH. WHICH CAN LEAD TO STREAKING. UPSIDE OF BRUSHING IS YOU CAN GET THICKER AND FEWER COATS. WHEN LAYING DOWN COATS DON’T START AT THE EDGE. START ABOUT 1/3 OF THE WAY DOWN AND TAKING IT TO THE OTHER EDGE THEN BACK STROCK PICKING UP ANY PUDDELED FINISH TAKING IT TO THE FIRST EDGE.
WIPE ON GIVES YOU A LITTLE MORE CONTROL BY NOT PUTTING DOWN AS MUCH FINISH. THIS MAKES SANDING EASIER BUT YOU HAVE MORE COATS TO GET THE SAME MIL THICKNESS AS BRUSHING. TO ME THATS OK. I DISLIKE SANDING FINISH.
LETS SAY WE HAVE ALL OUR COATS ON AND WE ARE READY TO DO OUR FINAL SANDING / POLISHING. I READ SOMEWHERE THAT BY USING A HIGH GLOSS FINISH TO START WE CAN SAND OR POLISH TO THE GLOSS OF YOUR CHOOSING. THAT MADE SENSE TO ME. WITH POLYS I LIKE THE OLD WET DRY SANDING THROUGH 2000 THEN USING ROTTONSTONE AND OIL. THEN IF YOU WANT A NICE WAX TO FINISH IT UP.
BUT, THE KEY TO THE FINAL SANDING / POLISHING IS TO LET THE FINSH CURE. ABOUT 10 DAYS. CAN YOU STAND IT? THE CAN WILL TELL YOU HOW LONG YOU CAN WORK ON YOUR NEXT PROJECT BEFORE YOU CAN FINISH THIS ONE.
FYI, I LOVE TUNG OIL. I FIND IT SARGE PROOF.
LET ME KNOW YOUR THOUGHTS.
THANKS FOR SPENDING THE TIME WITH ME AND MY RAMBLING.
-- GOD CREATED THE EARTH WITH TREES, GOD CREATED MAN WITH BRAINS TO MAKE A SAW. THE REST IS UP TO US. LETS MAKE SOME SAW DUST.
4 comments so far
woodchips
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229 posts in 859 days
posted 762 days ago
what brand tung oil do you use?
-- "Who but a fool would discard seeminly useless parts? To keep every cog and wheel is the first precaution of intelligent engineering" -- Aldo Leopold
brad
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135 posts in 799 days
posted 762 days ago
Informative, (hey guys, I’ve heard him say this many times(..I hope someday some of it will “rub off” on me)
har-har…
Tung oil is the closest thing I’ve found to being Brad proof too.
-- Brad,--"The way to eat an eliphant is one bite at a time"
Paul
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607 posts in 987 days
posted 762 days ago
Guilty as charged. I generally rush the finishing and turn a pretty good project into one upon close inspection is a mediodre one.
Hadn’t heard the “as long as it takes to build” standard though. Whoa! Not even close! Food for thought.
-- Paul, Texas
Thos. Angle
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4013 posts in 857 days
posted 762 days ago
Good info, Sarge. I find that I get better finish with Poly when I seal with de-waxed shellac first. The poly doesn’t sink in as much. I know they say don’t put poly over shellac but if you sand first it works great. Of course I have to sand the thing multiple times but that’s what makes it silky.I also use gloss poly and then rub down to the shine I want. No stirring and fewer bubbles. Your teacher is absolutely correct; color and shine will sell faster.
-- Thos. Angle