
Well my first problem is to over come the chip out. I am building the tops first and this is what it will look like if all my lines and splines square and true. The real problem here is I am getting a lot of chip out (not snipe) when I run the boards through the planer. These are very sharp blades! I think the problem is that the wood is Makore and very, very quilted. I have both tops glued up to about 24” X 17” just a bit over 1/2” thick. The outside will be Maple and after looking at it I may do the maple all the way around. Oh, and it will be tiger maple, as well defined as I can find. I guess I need some feed back on the wood of choice? I don’t want it to make to loud of a statement and I’m a little concerned about the Quilted Makore. It almost looks like 3D even with no finish. Kind of like the dashboard in a caddy. picture of wood Here’s a photo of the makore. The only thing I can come up with is to bring the top to a shop that has a wide belt sander and have it rough sanded just to level it and get it to a more uniform thickness.
Any one have any ideas or feed back?
-- Sell it here> http://woodworkerslist.com






















12 comments so far
ChicoWoodnut
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895 posts in 708 days
posted 219 days ago
I have never had any luck running figured wood through the planer or jointer. The best I have come up with is planing it close and then using a sander or scraper to bring the surface down. I have done this on figured maple. The birdseyes will pop out if you try to plane them leaving little pecky holes where the birdseyes were.
-- Scott - Chico California http://chicowoodnut.home.comcast.net
sandhill
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608 posts in 817 days
posted 219 days ago
That’s exactly whats happening. I guess I will see what a cabinet shop wants to run it
-- Sell it here> http://woodworkerslist.com
Karson
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25792 posts in 1293 days
posted 219 days ago
I’ve jad some great luck with the spiral head on my planer and jointer. I’ve never had any chipout. I planes some burly, tiger maple from roughsawn to smothness on both sides by only taking 1/16” per side.
-- What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop. No wait that doesn't sound right. Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †
sandhill
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608 posts in 817 days
posted 219 days ago
I thought about making a conversion to my 20” Grizzly but its not cheep. Do they cut at more of an angle instead of straight on? Kind of slicing?
-- Sell it here> http://woodworkerslist.com
Jeremy
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52 posts in 223 days
posted 218 days ago
Judging by your tag, “I need more tools” why not buy a drum sander? :-) This way you could avoid chip out all together…Just a thought!
-- Jeremy, Rochester, NY
sandhill
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608 posts in 817 days
posted 218 days ago
Wish I could afford one. Retired also means broke in my case… It seem like something is always coming up that takes the few extra dollars I am able to raise. Nice Thought though.
-- Sell it here> http://woodworkerslist.com
Jeremy
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52 posts in 223 days
posted 218 days ago
Don’t feel bad, I’m working and still feel like that! HAHA!
-- Jeremy, Rochester, NY
Douglas Bordner
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3421 posts in 957 days
posted 218 days ago
I have moistened the wood with Mineral Spirits about five minutes before jointing or planing with some success. I generally plan on being a very healthy 1/8˝ over project thickness. And I am happy to have taken the plunge on a 10-20 open-end drum sander for final dimensioning.
-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.
sandhill
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608 posts in 817 days
posted 218 days ago
I sure would like to get one of them for my shop. The one I want is about $1800.00. I all most got one for $650.00 like new but was to late. Maybe someone will list on on the woodworkerslist web site and I will be first to see it and call.
-- Sell it here> http://woodworkerslist.com
sandhill
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608 posts in 817 days
posted 207 days ago
I have decided to buy a flat belt sander when I see one I can afford.
-- Sell it here> http://woodworkerslist.com
PurpLev
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2733 posts in 541 days
posted 207 days ago
mmmm, just a thought- what about using a handplane for final dimensioning and smoothing out the surface?
-- When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.
sandhill
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608 posts in 817 days
posted 207 days ago
All I have are smaller planes nothing that could do a large surface. Great idea though. I have the boards glued up and put away till the time comes I can do what I need. I went to a few shops and one wanted $50.00 per top and the other said flat out NO.
-- Sell it here> http://woodworkerslist.com