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What to do with badly deformed veneer #1: I have some QUILTED MAKORE Veneer

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Blog entry by sandhill posted 387 days ago 1102 reads 0 times favorited 5 comments Add to Favorites Watch
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If it looked this good I would not even post this question. This is a picture of one of many sheets I had and used all the best ones for some night stands I have 3 or 4 sheets left that are about 10” X 16” but they are badly dried out warped and curled and just deformed but I think they are salvageable. I am hoping Patrick, Patrice or Elaine can give some advice as to how I can fix these or anyone that wants to jump in. I think they would look great as the peddles of a rose because of the sweeping grain I am getting my back log of projects out the door and have a number of blanket chests to make and I would like to use the Makore for the roses on the sides of the chests I think I can get 6 roses out of what I have if it can be saved.
Thanks

-- Bob Egbert AKA Sandhill http://www.sandhillwoodworks.com/



5 comments so far

View shipwright's profile

shipwright

4900 posts in 1424 days


#1 posted 387 days ago

I usually get them good and wet and then press them sometimes with hot cauls, sometimes not. Don’t press hard right off. Sort of ease into it. I’ve saved some pretty ugly stuff that way. My two bottles of veneer softener are still unopened.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees. http://prmdesigns.com/

View Patricelejeune's profile

Patricelejeune

242 posts in 546 days


#2 posted 387 days ago

What we do for those deformed veneer is very lightly spray them, very lightly, it will start to relax fast.
Wrap them in paper couple layer thick, the thicker the more moisture you suck out.
We use blank news paper, and press them hot.
The heat helps to get the moisture out faster.
Change the paper morning and evening until moisture is gone. You can reuse a previous paper if it had dried.
If it is really deformed you can do it in steps, spray and had a bit of weight so it starts relaxing flatter, then spray again and press with clamps.

Like Paul we do not use veneer softener, I do not like to add any chemicals to my veneer when water always worked well for me.

Hope this helps

-- Patrice lejeune

View Dan Lyke's profile

Dan Lyke

1470 posts in 2751 days


#3 posted 386 days ago

I’d think that the Titebond/Titebond II “apply the glue, let it dry, quickly iron it on” trick (You’ve got more time with the original Titebond than with the II) would probably work pretty well in conjunction with wetting the veneer. You may have a little problem with some cracking as it dries (the iron really pulls the water out of the wood, which means that it can pull apart), but most of those cracks can be filled with the cyanoacrylate and 220 sandpaper trick.

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California, http://www.flutterby.net/User:DanLyke

View StumpyNubs's profile

StumpyNubs

6163 posts in 1427 days


#4 posted 386 days ago

Charles Neil did a segment in one of his shows about this. There’s actually a process that takes a few days but does a great job. You should email him, I'm sure he'd give you some help.

-- It's the best woodworking show since the invention of wood... New episodes at: http://www.stumpynubs.com

View sandhill's profile

sandhill

2117 posts in 2550 days


#5 posted 385 days ago

Thanks guys, Lot of help off I go to cut out my templates.

-- Bob Egbert AKA Sandhill http://www.sandhillwoodworks.com/

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