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Step-back Cupboard Build #14: Molding

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Blog entry by rwyoung posted 06-29-2009 04:10 AM 951 reads 0 times favorited 2 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 13: Face frame attached Part 14 of Step-back Cupboard Build series Part 15: Attaching the molding... »

I don’t own any giant molding bits. So if I’m going to make a reasonably large molding for the top of the cupboard, then I’m going to have to make it in smaller pieces and glue it together. Not as hard as it sounds.

What was hard though is I decided it had to look nice AND could only be made with bits I already had. The original article I’m taking my inspiration from has some sample moldings and while I don’t have all the same profiles, I can get pretty close. But his big case molding was another story.

Step one was to get out the graph paper and sketch the basic profiles I have at hand then start putzing around until I got something with enough weight to look right.

So roughly, the profile I’ve drawn in the lower right is where I want to go. But this still isn’t quite large enough. Mike Dunbar’s article has a piece behind this with a smaller ogee. I have a 5/32 ogee bit so I’ll start with that piece. Here is one end of a test piece – excuse the bobble at the end, it will get cut off.

Next I need to make the lower roundover. The block will be 1” thick so I milled down some of my remaining 5/4 and then chucked up a 7/8” roundover bit. This is a bit of a monster as roundovers go, good for a table edge.

So two things I need to do in preparation for this, one is set up some feather boards on the fence. The second is to set up some stop blocks behind the fence so that once adjusted to just ride the bearing, I can swing the fence forward and make my cut in two passes.


One of these days I’ll make a fence to match the size of this table, this fence I made for the previous table and it is about 2” too short to span side to side. But this one still works OK.

So, two passes to get the full profile, then rip it off the test board (SNIPE! Doh!).

Here’s a better piece.

Next up is the cove portion. I’m going to use a 1/2” cove. But after cutting a small test piece I realized it will be a nightmare to get a smooth transition from roundover to cove. The solution, make a small step-back shoulder and accentuate the size difference instead of trying to hide it. The small shoulder is made by first cutting a groove with a 1/4” spiral bit about 5/8” in from the edge of the board, then running the roundover leaving the little stepped shoulder. Forgot to take a picture of the groove cutting. Sorry.

This has also been ripped to width for the final stackup. And here it is, just a little double sided tape holding things so I could see it.

So all that is left is to glue together the roundover and cove pieces and do a little detail sanding. A few boogers to clean up but I have more than enough length that I should be able to cut around the snipe from my planer. And the 5/32 ogee board will be ripped to the correct width too. It gets applied to the cupboard first, mitering the corners. Then the larger glued-up ogee (I think technically, this is more of a reverse ogee but I’m not 100% on that) goes on. Once painted, the glue line should disapear all together! :)

Next I want to get the molding applied then work on the door.

-- Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.



2 comments so far

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

115202 posts in 3039 days


#1 posted 06-29-2009 04:17 AM

good job good looking molding

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27251 posts in 3283 days


#2 posted 06-29-2009 12:16 PM

I have to agree that this is some nice looking molding. It can be intimidating trying to come up with a large piece of molding like this but, by breaking it down into manageable steps like you have done, it seems to be relatively straight-forward.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

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