The blanks for the upper and lower “floating” shelves will have a simple bull-nose profile routed on them. This is the same profile shown in Mike Dunbar’s article and I like the look. But I had to go pick up a bull-nose bit (Freud, purchased at local Woodcraft). I got a 3/16” radius version. Should work out just fine.
This is not a bearing guided bit so the router table fence must be set up correctly. My first try, I had forgotten to tighten the bolts that hold the sliding portion of my fence and so as the test stock was almost all the way across, the fence slipped a little and made the bit dig in a little farther. This is why you run a test piece first…
The real pieces ran just fine after I dealt with the fence issue. Also, I clamped a sacrificial piece to the outfeed end of the shelf so that as the real end of the work piece passed the bit, there was still wood supporting it against the infeed fence. I’ve learned the hard way to either make the workpiece an inch or two longer or clamp on a sacrificial piece (a push sled would work too but my top wasn’t wide enough given that the shelves are about 23-1/2” wide.
Here is the finished profile. I think I may ease the corners just a touch with a block plane but I can do that any time.
The cleats are glued to the sides of the case but only at the middle 1/3 of their length. I’ll toenail in three places on the cleats tomorrow. The cleat will be well supported and still it can give a little as the sides of the case move.
Here is the case with the floating shelves resting on the cleats. Note that the face frame has not been installed so you can see much more of the cleats and shelf ends than normal.
-- Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.