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|04-03-2016 04:29 AM||
Live and Learn - 1 reply
The end was in sight on a project, when the Unisaw motor quit with a bang. Uh oh. Took it off, and headed for a local electrical shop to have it diagnosed. Turns out that shop was closed, and assuming it was their lunchtime, I headed over to Grizzly to kill a half hour or so. The guys at Grizzly told me the motor shop was winding down (maybe t...
|02-16-2016 09:57 PM||
Anybody use the "incredible Shop Fox" fence? - 2 replies
I have been intrigued by this fence for a long time, but went another direction on my Unisaw. Whenever I’m in the Grizzly showroom, I play with it for a minute or two. It glides with amazing smoothness, and appears to always hold its squareness to the table. My concern about it has to do with how easy it is to remove from the saw when y...
|01-14-2015 02:30 AM||
What happened to the "back" function? - 20 replies
Prior to today, after reading a particular thread or review, I just had to click on the back arrow to go to the topic list or new review. Now, I have to close the window and open it up again. Is this happening to anyone else, or is Comcast trying to show us the “advantages” of slow lanes on the internet?
|11-22-2014 01:06 AM||
How to post video? - 11 replies
I’ve tried 2 or 3 times to post videos of some process I was doing, but never seemed to have success. I can do fine with still photos. Is there a simple step I’m overlooking? I admit I am not a whiz-bang computer dude.
|11-08-2014 09:57 PM||
Did anyone make their own riving knife? - 9 replies
Back in February of 2013 I did a blog about making a riving knife for a Unisaw. Several people said they would like to make their own. I didn’t include any plans, just photos and descriptions of what I did. My question is whether anyone did follow through and make their own RK. I’d be curious if you came up with any improvements, ...
|11-07-2014 03:03 AM||
CL Gloat: Forrest 8" dado--$40 - 5 replies
I wasn’t even looking for this while browsing CL, but as soon as I saw it I jumped. Looks like it has had some use, but the carbide appears to be in perfect condition, and it’s all complete, including the shims. I ran a few test cuts in birch ply, and there is zero tear out. So do I suck, or what? 1987 date of manufacure. I hope t...
|10-30-2014 04:13 AM||
This project shows how I addressed several of the concerns that people (including myself) have had with benchtop mortisers. Among these are the inadequacy of the typical holdown, the slowness of shifting the stock laterally by hand for each cut, and the narrowness of the table that becomes problematic with long pieces, such as the stiles for a d...
|10-25-2014 11:24 PM||
Using mortiser to make splined miters - 0 replies
This is a simple and quick way to make splined miters, in stock that is thick and wide enough to accommodate the mortise chisel and the spline. The advantage of this is it is quite strong, and the spline is completely blind. To make the mortise: 1. Cut the miters 2. Put the stock into the mortising machine on edge. 3. Set the depth o...
|10-24-2014 01:10 AM||
Thin Strip Cutting Jig for TS - 20 replies
From time to time a question comes up concerning the sawing of thin strips on the TS. I have made a jig that simplifies the task, provides a lot of safety, and is very quick—depending, that is, on how hard it is to adjust your featherboard. Essentially, this is like a sled, but for ripping rather than crosscutting. The “hook,R...
|03-03-2014 05:49 AM||
TS fence length can be varied - 3 replies
Common topics in these forums concern TS fence offset, and fence length. The Europeans like short fences (used in conjunction with riving knives) to prevent kickback resulting from reaction wood moving toward the fence as the wood moves beyond the cut. For similar reasons, one camp of U.S. jocks urges the fence be deflected slightly away from th...
|02-20-2014 10:29 PM||
What are Beech slabs worth? - 8 replies
I took down a beech last summer, and slabbed it with a chainsaw mill. The slabs are all a generous 2” thick and about 5’ long. Since my jointer/planer combo is limited to 12” width, I ripped the slabs to average about 10” or so. They’ve been air drying since. Though I wouldn’t mind using them on some project, ...
|03-31-2013 05:19 AM||
Brazing a bandsaw blade - 13 replies
Ironically, I had just been reading a post a few days ago about repairing a broken bandsaw blade. I have a 14” Grizzly, which I converted to cut metal by putting in a jackshaft and a couple of step pulleys. It’s a real workhorse. I have my local saw shop make me up 1/4” variable pitch bimetal blades. These are able to handle ev...
|03-22-2013 06:56 AM||
What to do when the wood is too thin to joint? - 4 replies
I was faced with this question during my louvered door project (see my blog). The material (oak from pre-existing solid wood doors) was already at barely over 3/4”, and I didn’t want to go thinner than about .745”. That meant that a warped board (which can create real problems in a framed door) couldn’t be jointed without...
|02-23-2013 07:22 AM||
You gotta see this . . . - 14 replies
Nova program “Building Pharoah’s Chariot.” Archeologists research the technology of Pharoah’s chariots, while Egyptian woodworkers make it all come together. These guys mill timbers from huge logs, using enormous bandsaw mills with long, totally exposed blades. Their wood steaming and bending skills are beyond astonishing...
|02-22-2013 08:06 PM||
Riving knife for unisaw - 8 replies
I have recently completed my retrofit of a riving knife to my old Unisaw. It’s a true RK, rising and falling in unison with the blade, and tilting, etc. I’d like to do a write up on what I did, and how I did it, with pbotos. Question is, what is the best forum to put this in? Project (but it’s not a “woodworking” pr...
|02-01-2013 09:32 PM||
Anybody remember Gilliom power tool kits? - 5 replies
During the 50s and up into the 70s (not sure of years), a company called Gilliom sold kits for building power tools. They had a table saw, two bandsaws (12” and 18”), jointer, drum sander, and maybe others. I built the 18” bandsaw. It was just okay, but I had to beef up the backbone to give it some rigidity. I was able to use i...
|01-22-2013 11:31 PM||
Why hasn't anyone griped about this yet? - 32 replies
One of my pet peeves with power tools is plastic cords. They are annoyingly stiff, and I’ve seen them so bad it can make the tool difficult to handle. Rubber cords are so much more satisfactory, especially nice long rubber cords—like the one on my Bosch saber saw, for example. How many pennies do the manufacturers save by using plast...
|01-22-2013 07:37 AM||
An alternative to Saw Stop? - 232 replies
This started on another thread, and was beginning to look like a hijacking, so I thought it would be better to start a new thread and see where it goes. RonInOhio brought up an interesting point in that other thread, about developing tehnology to rival the SS. I’m thinking a better way would be not to stop the blade instantaneously, but to d...
|01-11-2013 09:00 AM||
Band Saw blades--bimetal and carbide - 3 replies
Grizzly’s new catalog shows both bimetal and carbide bandsaw blades in the length I need—124”. Does anyone have experience with these blades, and are they worth the extra $? (%58.95 in a 3/4” 2-3 tpi; $189.95 for carbide, 1” 2-3 tpi). These are Timberwolf, by the way. My intended use would be resawing.
|01-02-2013 02:59 AM||
My question has a couple of purposes. First is to inspire someone to design or invent a new tool or jig that will do something new or do it better. Second is to troll for ideas for something I might try to devise. Here are a few to start the discussion off: 1. Why have to choose between a right tilt or left tilt TS? Why not a saw that can til...