I enjoyed making the first one so much, here goes number 2. I decided to leave the drywall screws in the batten boards on the top of the first box. I like the way they look, and I like the way they grip/hold stuff down. I’ve been using drywall screws to put stuff together for since forever. I think they look fine. Kind of utilitarian. That fits my style well. So I am going to use 1-1/4” DW screws for the flat joins and 2-1/2” DW screws for the perpendicular joins (bugle head). Just the plain black ones. Makes for a nice contrast in the white pine boards. I debated using box nails or some other kind of nail. I like using screws, because you can always back them out down the road if you want or need to (most of the time anyway). And nails, have a tendency to want to back out on their own given enough time. I’ve not had any of my pre-drilled pilot hole & wood glued finish nails ever want to come out, but the flat head wire nails are the ones that seem to want to come out. I like drywall screws for my woodworking. Works for me. ;)
End board layouts for square 3/4” tenons.
Sides. This wood is very light and white pine (possibly spruce).
End board size in comparison – the second box will be slightly smaller. BTW, wood is expensive. This one has slightly better wood, but not as good as I had planned initially. I picked through the pile and found the two clearest (least amount of knots) and cleanest boards.
I made some nice cuts on the square tenons with my Vaughn Bear Ryobi. So far, so good.
First set of “waste” chopped out nicely with chisel.
And here is where I start to go “wrong” on the other end of the first board. I worked late at night when I was tired. I got impatient and instead of sharpening my chisel and continuing on with chopping out the waste, I decided to use the lousy coping saw. This cut is OK. Not too far yet.
But when I turned the board around and sawed the other side, the coping saw angled down and there was no stopping it. 1/16” too deep. Crumb.
-- Rodney, Arkansas