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View DIYaholic's profile (online now)

Dungeon to Lair: That's the plan at least... #22: The- To- -at & a Router Circle Cutting Jig...

03-02-2013 04:08 AM by DIYaholic | 5 comments »

I HATE moving the DC hose from machine to machine!!! One of these days (who hasn’t said that tooo many times?), I will be running 4” galvanized metal ducting throughout the shop. I’ve had the ducting for a while now, but am waiting to install it until my machine layout is better determined. I also need to do the obligatory HF 2HP DC Thien Top Hat upgrade. I already have the Wynn Environmental 35A-NANO cartridge filter. The DC upgrade will go a long way towards the “...

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View lew's profile

I Love My Dewalt 735 Planer But......

02-28-2013 09:04 PM by lew | 19 comments »

A couple of years ago, I purchased a Dewalt 735 planer to replace my tired and worn Bridgewood Lunch Box planer. The Dewalt has features not found in the early model bench top machines and I love it. If there could be one improvement, it would be the location of the chip exhaust port. When the chip collection hose is attached, it constantly gets tangled with pieces moving on the outfeed table. I normally use a bungee cord to tie back the hose. Then a light bulb went on…. I had a 4...

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View runswithscissors's profile

Riving knife retrofit for unisaw #1: Riving Knife retrofit for Unisaw

02-23-2013 01:30 AM by runswithscissors | 65 comments »

Like a lot of people, I wanted a true riving knife for my older Unisaw. I checked out the Bolt On Riving Knife (BORK) and realized it doesn’t maintain a uniform height relative to the blade, because it follows a bigger arc than the blade, being even farther out from the axis of the swing arm. Also, frankly, the means of attachment to the arbor doesn’t look very robust to me. I find this analogy useful for picturing the functioning of a true riving knife. Compare it to your arm. Your should...

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View Dennis Zongker's profile

Dining Table and Chairs, Griffin Style Legs. #2: "Carving the Lower Flutes & Scrolls"

01-19-2013 11:54 PM by Dennis Zongker | 23 comments »

The first step in carving out the table legs I began with the side scrolls and front flutes at the bottom of the leg. Before I start carving I always hone or sharpen any knife I will be using that have any small chips in the edge. This will give you a nice clean smooth cut when carving. For the table legs I used Genuine Mahogany it is a great carving wood and I think it has a cleaner cut than basswood because of it’s tight grain. To layout the legs I made a drawing template out of a ...

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View justoneofme's profile

Marquetry Tutorial 101 ... Window Style #1: Marquetry Tutorial 101 ... Window Style

02-16-2013 03:07 AM by justoneofme | 18 comments »

Hi Lumber Jock Buddies! I thought it might be interesting for those wanting to dabble a bit with veneers, especially in the creation of Marquetry ... to pass along some (what I hope are) simple steps to follow, using a simple method I learned many years ago at the hands of a Latvian Master. By now you are all familiar with Shipwright’s fabulous Marquetry, and incredible cutting skill using his hand built Chevalet!! I hope Paul won’t mind me bringing his talents into my blog...

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View blackcherry's profile

French Polish Simplified

01-27-2013 07:05 PM by blackcherry | 10 comments »

One of my favorite finishes is the classic French Polish technique, the use of shellac and a lubricate in a hand pad wiping on method. Now I’ve seen plenty of ways to go about this technique from melting down shellac flake and thinning with cutting medium, so over the years I came up with a procedure of my own by trail and error and have simplified this technique to my own liking and so I would like to share with any of you who would like to try this out. So I would like to post a blog...

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View yuridichesky's profile

Workbench #1: Wagon vise from scratch

01-27-2013 01:19 PM by yuridichesky | 15 comments »

The bench I’m building is a small one due to very limited shop area (about 10 by 4 feet), so the top is 40” by 10” (laminated pine) plus tool tray (about 6” wide). As for vises after some considerations I decided to go for leg vise and the wagon vise. It took me a while, but now top and wagon vise are ready. Here is my wagon vise kit ready for assembly: The hardware is a 3/4” (19mm) machine screw with square brass nut ($10 flea-market find). The scre...

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View Stevinmarin's profile

Build a lumber storage cart

01-26-2013 05:36 AM by Stevinmarin | 25 comments »

Here’s a rolling cart for storing lumber, plywood, and other sheet goods in your workshop. I made this to take up as little space as possible, yet hold a lot of wood. Download free plans for this project.

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View Ron Stewart's profile

Mobile Torsion Box Workbench #1: Background, Research, and Requirements

01-25-2013 01:08 AM by Ron Stewart | 3 comments »

This is the first of a series of blog entries describing a mobile torsion box workbench I recently completed. I posted a project summary a few days ago (Mobile Torsion Box Workbench). The overall series will cover construction plans and details, material costs, and odds and ends. In this entry, I’ll describe some of the factors and thought processes that led me to build this bench the way I did. Some Background about MeI’m an occasional woodworker. I probably average three or f...

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View BritBoxmaker's profile

Wooden Hinges #1: Clam Shell Hinges - yet another different wooden hinging method

03-18-2012 02:32 PM by BritBoxmaker | 22 comments »

This blog details how I made the hinges for my latest project, ‘56’ (also now used in ‘42’). In this blog I will be making one hinge, 56mm x 76mm x 6mm. I am using dissimilar woods for contrast. These are, in this case, sycamore and walnut. I work in millimetres. For those of you using inches there are 25.4 mm to the inch. There is a calculator in the pc you are using to read this blog, its not rocket science. I cut four blanks 56mm x 42mm x 3mm, two of sycamore and...

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