After reading indplswoodworking’s post on the simple mitre Box produced as a result of calibrating their saw, this prompted me to post this “Test Cube”.

How it came about was a result of seeing a box LLWW had produced with a mitered base.
I wanted to see if I could reproduce something as precise as Larry’s on my compound miter saw.

As it was purely another one of my ‘experiments” I only used some MDF I had lying around.

I set up the saw to cut precisly the width of the material into 45 Deg angled squares.
Cut six squares out.
Glued them together as pairs.
Assembled them into a cube.
Checked the results and lo and behold they were very accurate.
So I set to and made a second one just to make sure I didn’t “fluke it”
Sure enough I obtained the exactly the same results.
So I set them on the bench and took the accompaning photos to share.

Conclusion:-

Yes you can get the accuracy and repeatability with precise set up and skillfull cutting using a miter saw.

So what am I going to do with them? Who knows, possibly glue them together and veneer the outsides.

Enjoy

Regards
Robert Brennan

A fellow tradie friend of mine who is a psssst metalworker bought the nutsert gun and asked me to make a box for it.

As it was love job I pecked throught my timber off cut stock to see if there was anything suitable.

I found some pieces of 12 and 16mm ply wood and a piece of 4mm perspex.

I used the gun to work out a suitable dimension and built it in dry assembly methods to ensure everything fitted in and looked reasonably fibanachi.

Nothing too fancy titebond III but joints cut the recess with a router bit, cut everything else including the perspex on my Einhell compound miter saw, its advertised as being able to cut plastic and metals, and worked well on the perspex.

Did the holes for the acccessories in a separate piece of ply with a forstner bits and the base hole for the gun with hole saw in the bench top drill press, sanded it and then slid it in and then glued it in place.
Used the 16mm as the back and 12mm all other sides.

Added some of my hand made bead to the edge of the ply finish it off

Wacked a couple of rare earth magnets in the sides to hold the two tools.

Finished with a light sand and then a coat of water based coal tinted sanding sealer.

I reckon he will be annoyed as it looks like a showcase rather than a transit box!

I was going to use my 3D router all over it but thought I had better not!

Enjoy

This project is a direct result of being bored with the constant rain.
Apart from that I wanted to see if my compound saw could do repeatable cuts with enough accuracy for a box builders eye.

The inserts were measured and drilled out with a forstner bit then cut in half

The box frame was some pieces of pine, the inserts the same material and the top and bottom MDF
The usual process for making a box was followed.
I made everything dry fitted it up then glued everything together, let it set then sawed it open, fitted an old piano hinge and suitcase catch and then put everthing in.
It looked a bit bland so,

The top gets a makeover!.
The 3mm MDF top was then enhanced by adding some beading, this was some I made on my spindle shaper some time ago and was “just lying around” not being satisfied with wasting enough time on it yet I then decided to break out my “craft’ stuff and silver and gold coat the beading using “Rub & Buff” and then Indian inked the frame.
I then applied clear sanding sealer to everything, not being content with that I then sprayed clear polyurethane over it again.

Oh and just in case my kids find it when they are cleaning out all my “crap” after I am gone I left a note for them!

Enjoy… and relate maybe.

Well its has finally stopped raining for long enough to catch upon the back log.
Saw horses, spent quite a bit of time reading up on them whilst it was raining, along with a mathematics book on formulas relating to woodworking Pyhagoras and the likes.( really bad weather!!)

I needed some saw horses so I decided to make some, didnt want to make them too complicated and wanted to use the available timber I had.

Here is how I did it.

Saw Horses using 90 and 15 degrees
Mar 2013 Description
The Saw horses were built from recycled pallet bits, new 75 mm x 35mm Pine Stock and some 12mm plywood, either 90 Deg or 15 deg cuts were used throughout.

Materials:
Radiata Pine from a recycled pallet for the top .
75mm x 35mm MGP 12 pine for the legs
12mm Ply wood, used for the leg braces.

Dimensions:
The Top
The top is a recycled pallet section 900mm long.
The Legs
All the legs were pine 75mm x 35mm x 620mm. A length determined to match another saw horse I had.
The length really is something determined by the users choice of size.

Construction: The Top
The top is 900mm long.
The recesses or rebates were both set at 150mm in from the ends of the top and at a 15 degree angle. This angle is mirrored on each side, and is about 15mm deep, and a width to suit the legs.
Note:- Made sure you measure them to determine the real dimensions and not the nominal timber size as there may be a difference.
Mark out the cut outs at 15 deg and a width and depth to suit your timber
The top recesses can be cut on a drop saw or a table saw as the depth cut is parallel to the surface.
Material removal can be by repeat cuts with the saw or you may choose to chisel it out. The Legs The legs are cut 4x at 620mm with a 15 deg compound cut on the top and bottom.
Lay out the legs and mark out your rebate recess on 2x legs and then mirror the dimensions or replicate this for two more.
I used my tenoning jig and table saw to cut out the rebates.
You can do this on a drop saw but the ripping section you will need to either chisel it out or use a hand or power saw.

The Ply Braces
With two pieces of ply cut the braces to suit the assembly, again they are at 15 deg angles.

Fit up
Dry assembly everything and check that the saw horse sits flat and level.
It should do, there may be a slight levelling error which can be adjusted with the end braces. If it doesn’t and there is a large levelling error of which you cannot adjust out something has been cut incorrectly. Recheck and recut to suit.

• Assembly
  Once everything is good to go,… predrill and countersink the legs. Then using decking screws assemble the legs.
  Attach the ply braces with a couple of screws only, then do a final levelling check.
  If everything is still accurate and level and its still good to go attach the ply braces with 6 x screws each side.

Hardware and tools.*
8 x decking screws 14×10x15
12 x treated screws 8-10×32
Countersink bit
Drill bit (to suit predrilling the legs for decking screws)
Compound miter saw/Drop saw and assembly bench
Table saw and Tenoning jig
Battery drill and Battery impact drill
Set Square, Pencil, Chisel and Mallet or /hand saw/power saw.

Yo its me back again
got everything finished this time

Picture 1 & 2 An end grain cutting/chopping board.

Materials
Silky oak, European Walnut, Ebony and (I think NG Rosewood)
Still need to work out where the thickness dimension lies which determines either its a cutting board or chopping board.

Picture 3 & 4
No prizes for recognising these two pictures from a previous post.
Once I got over the shock of just how much skill and preparation is required to ensure these type of boards are impressive is required I perserved and finished it. (warts and all)

I tried to give it to my son as a chopping board but his reply was ” nice work on the cheese board, might make a non functional chopping board”

Picture 5
Definately a couple of cheese boards , again from a previous post which started all this crazy work!

Picture 6
Now this is a practice run after my original attempt at picture 3 and 4 was less than satisfactory.

Conclusion:
Making cutting boards requires an initial detailed understanding of due process and and as a result will only alow a small amount of “screw ups” along the way.

I found in my case the final products can be both rewarding and frustrating particuarly if they do not refelect the effort taken in being attempting to be precise and the standard expected for the completed product

Will I make more? I dont think so…. I will leave it to the experts, still I had fun and learned a lot even if it was a result of crying out for help half way through and post build.

P.S. Thanks to all the LJs that responded and those who took the time to post blogs on the process

Happy New Year to everybody !!!

enjoy

Robert Brennan

After seeing all the nice cutting boards displayed on LJs I thought I had better get to do some work and make one myself.

Bad move, What a distaster WAD!

Its so hot in Brisabane at the moment I have been tidying up and doing maintenance, and I guess you can only polish and preserve cast Iron surfaces so many times.

Anyway back to the project, if you could call it that, well I found some short pieces of Camphor Laurel I had “saved for something”.
So I decided to cut them up to make a cutting board.

I cut the timber into many blocks at 30 deg and 28mm x 28mm.
Sanded off all the rough edges and layed them out in a pattern (of sorts)
I them glued them together with a brush and Titebond III

Mistake No 1
I got glue everywhere and on everything
Question 1. How do you apply the glue without the mess?

Mistake No 2
Once I had them all glued together I didnt know how to clamp them up
Being odd shapes the more pressure I applied the more they moved off position. So I just left them to dry.
Question 2. What type of clamps are used, and how do you clamp up a project such as this?

Once the glue was set I surfaced both sides and had a good look at the layout

Mistake No 3
I see some of the pieces have been inserted with the grain alignment mismatched
Question No 3 When conducting dry alignments is there any convention to matching the blocks? end grain to end grain or edge grain to end grain?

I think this error was introduced as a result of me inverting the blocks to remove defects to the rear surface and not realising the added errorthat I had introduced

Overall the project didnt look too bad for a first attempt but was not what I could class as saleable.

Mistake No 4
I decided to coat the top surface with West System epoxy 105 and 205.
All went well until I noticed air bubbles everywhere!
WAD! I thought, and whipped out the trusty hot air gun and managed to pop them.
All looked good so I left the project to set overnight, 5 to 6 hours set time.

Next morning I awoke and raced downstairs to check my work to my horror I saw that I now had small bubbles set in the epoxy everywhere!
Question No 4 How do you effectively remove the air bubbles and prevent them re occuring?

I am going to sand it off in a few days and then recoat it to attempt to produce a good surface finish, if only for the experience, then who knows what, may be a border to finish it off. Then keep it as an example of :- “How not to do it”.

Opps just realised its not finished so may get deleted!!

The Cheese Board Project was a prompted after reading about them, and there is quite a lot of information available about their production posted.
Added with all the ongoing comments posted be it details or just comments back and discussion of various methods,:

I had some suitable timber available so I laminated Huon Pine and Merbau/Tallow wood to make the bases.
I then ripped strips from a section of silky oak on my table saw to use as the internal borders.
Then set to work with the band saw and sectioned them
The project ran over three days part time mainly due to the glue up times required.
I used Titebond III and sash clamps to glue the sections all together.
Upon allowing them to dry, I then used an orbital sander to remove glue and excess Silky Oak strip.
Then repeated the process over again.
Once they were all complete I sanded everything again, starting with 40 grit 80 120 and finishing with 320 grit
Drilled a 25mm thumb hole 45 deg the corners and used a 6mm round over bit on the top face.

I chose to call them Cheese boards as opposed to cutting boards as I dont believe the two timbers and the thickness would sustain cutting and chopping.

Finishing with a liberal coat of LLWW secret formula oil produced the image in the photos.

Credits: The project was not completed without the assistance of the LJs who have made and posted similar projects of which inspired me to “have a go ya mug” (an Australian saying for those unfamiliar with the lingo!!)

Just some by name:- Larry and David (Degoose and Patron) bloging about these type of boards and the virtues of how to make them.
Poroskywood for the detailed step guide blog
Scott R Turner for the examples posted.

Then there are many added comments to guide you in Just what method you want to use.

I used exactly the same method as Scott R Turner pictorially displayed in his blog on the LJ website.
P.S. All the materials used was from recycled stock, hence the plugs visible in the Merbau timber.

Thanks Everybody it made a difference.
Enjoy

Opps
I just noticed that I had not included the finished oiled picture or the border picture, both now uploaded.
Its amazing just how many projects have been added in the 12 hours from the original post, at first I thought it had been deleted.
Now the story and pictures make sence.

A Dolls House for my Grandaughter

Composition
Concrete base HDF
Floor section Plywood
Walls MDF
Roof Sections Ply and MDF with natural timber for the trims and gutters
Downpipes and Red carry handles are plastic handles boiled up and reshaped
Windows Perspex
Stairs HDF and natural timber
Wirlybirds/handles, again plastic

Fixing
Butt jointed Titebond III and Brad Nails

Finishings:
Floors stained and sealed with a one coat product
Walls and roof sections all sealed with sanding sealer
Finalcoats
Bathrooms Oil based white gloss
Everything else Acrilic High Gloss.

Hours to complete:
Too many but I worked part time for over 1 month, the main reason was assembies were produced then left to allow the glue to dry.

Much the same for the paint work, do a section/colour then wait for it to dry.

Production Methods:
Cutting of materials, The table saw
Windows, Templates made then used the router/spindle Shaper to remove the waste and do the rounding
Back deck roof, cut on the table saw then rebated on the shaper
The deck Merbau or Tallowood recycled from cutoffs.
Mistakes Made:
Lots of them, some cosmetic and some “not as the As Built Design” however they were causing more damage to fix so they stayed
Managed to nail my finger with my air stapler.
Spent too much money!

For example there is over $200.00 in paint products, brushs glue tape alone.

Overall a very challenging task, it seems the smaller you make things from the “normal” the cost is inversly proportional.

Would I do it again?

For the family, I would recommend visiting Ana White and use a ready made product
For business or profit yes but I would advise the customer of an approximate cost up front.

Value
To my son and Grandaughter pricless as its a scale replica of their home
If I was to sell it for a profit I estimate $800 – $900 without a doubt, and thats with all the bugs all out.

I have a couple of hidden cookies included within the house see if you can spot them!

After making the Inserts for the corner cupboard I decided to do the under sink area as well

The upper shelf is for all the usual cleaners and “stuff” stashed under the sink.
The lower level is vegie storage.

The right hand upper and lower inserts were made to go around all the plumbing for the sink, hence the appearance of “over complex construction.

The finish, well its now the second week since making the white ones for the pots and appliances in the corner cupboard and it still smells from the paint.

After receiving a comment from a fellow LJ regarding “sealing” as opposed to “priming” I decided to seal the MDF rather than prime it.

Well while they were sitting on the table drying Aurora commented that they looked better that way!

So being not one to complain left them sealed only. This reduced process time by at least 2 days while waiting for paint to dry. With the added result of no paint smell in the cupboard.

I have a corner cupboard in the kitchen which is huge but very hard to access.
I wanted to buy some opening frames that came out when the door opened. Haffle products, but none were suitable.

So I made some from MDF.
Interesting material to work with to say the least, A Dust extractor is a must.
The MDF then sucks up paint like a sponge, however has a very smooth finish

First off I modified the “hidden” section of the existing cupboard by removing some of the material and added a fixed panel. This was to put lids in and also to be able to see into the area.

Took 2 days to complete mainly due to the paint drying, so what to do while waiting? check out LJ of course.

I by chance saw Ohad Milners work, and the images inspired me to make a hammer while I was waiting around. (His work worth a look at there is some amazing work to view)

So while I was waiting I glued up three pieces of “scrap” Silky Oak with titebondIII then with the belt linisher and Oscillating sander set to work. Finishing it by hand finishing and then added a coat of LLWW secret Oil formula. Here is the result.

Enjoy

This is an interesting story in regards to not attempting to compete with CNC woodworking using MMC at home MMC Man Manual Control.
Anyway
I was approached by a resident asking if I could make some modular toys that were on ESTY

I thought at first that the sell price was beyond my costs and said that I could not make them in MDF for the same price and suggested what I thought was a reasonable cost I could make them for.

Silly move as my price was accepted.
So my learning training began, I set about attempting to replicate the image provided using MDF.

After lots of sawdust and a bin full of scraps, broken router bits and a few expletives I managed to produce a presentable product.

I rang the customer and invited them to view my work.

They were happy with the result and then asked if I could do it in ply.
Shouldn’t be a problem was my misinformed reply.

The saga continues

However the plywood which was readly available is a step above firewood, its graded as CD, holes poor finish warped to name a few of the defects, which after reading the specs I would consider it barely conformed to.

So my attempts to try to find plywood suitable for making toys went on, and it was is no easy task I tell you, eventually I did find some suitable AA grade ply but the cost was prohibitive along with not being readly available.

Eventually I found some ply locally which was reported to be BC grade and appeared to be suitable, and the cost was now twofold, meaning it was 50% of the AA grade cost.

I was tempted to phone the customer back and decline the job, but as failure was not one of my options I decided to do it anyway.

I managed to produce some presentable examples and called the customer back to review my work.

They were happy with the results, apart from some minor cosmetics, like holes in the material, so much for BC grade plyywood.

The cosmetic defects will be fixed and the customer will go away happy.

However the lesson here is do not attempt to compete with CNC wood working in the home shop using MMC and expect to be competitive.

Lesson learnt

Regards
Robert Brennan

I had a request for a Dart Board Cabinet.
So as I had some Camphor Laurel Stock left I sorted some suitable pieces and set to work.

The base was a straightforward construction, four equal sections lock mitered together and an MDF back
inserted then covered with cork.
Sanded to 320 Grit

The doors were the typical Raised Panel construction.
The finish is a LLWW special, a hint I picked up from Larry at my last Visit (to check out his laser),and I used his secret oil finish.

Grape seed oil

By paying attention to grain features the center stiles are cut from one piece along with the upper and lower rails to produce a grain flowing effect.

The panels were from my stash of Book matched stock which I had made previously.
I simply selected some of the stock of a suitable size and then trimmed them to suit.

The top profile and all the dimensional sizes came from a ” how to make a Standard size dart board Cabinet” on the web.

Internal fitout was MDF blackboard inserts and the chalk/ dart holders from leftover stock.
I decided on removable boards as repainting was a possibility later so they can be simply removed from the battens.
The back internals was four cork tiles cut to size.
On the rear I installed a French Cleat to allow the unit to be set up and removed at the owners discression.

The tools I used were:
Jointer, thicknesser, table saw, shaper table, oscillating sander, battery drills, squares, various clamps, orbital sander.

P.S. I hope the customer has a “standard” dart board, otherwise I have another nice router bit cabinet!

Enjoy

My friend bought a boat and we sailed it back from Tweed Heads to Brisbane a couple of weeks ago.
He found the cockpit seat had some rot in it and asked me to replace one of the braces.
Well it was so bad a rebuild was in order.
Guess what material he wanted to use, that sleeper I made the pew ends out of some time ago.

So the saga begins again, from the raw material I cut enough to make the seat completely
So out comes just about every tool I own to do the job
Into the table saw for rough sawn stock
Into the jointer to flatten and square two sides
Into the thicknesser to produce all one thickness
Into the table saw for parallel finish

Then into a bench jig to ensure every part remained an exact copy
All went well even with one brace missing

then
Into the bandsaw for the cutouts on the ends and middle
Into the shaper for profiling
Into the drill for predrilling and countersinking
then Back into the jig for assembly
Had to replace all the brass screws that were breaking with stainless steel as the timber was so hard.
Its then back to the boat for a fit-up test, carry out any adjustments that may be required and then marine varnish.

Job complete, took me all day, then later a friend passed by and asked why I didn’t just buy some new timber already prepared?

Not what the customer wanted I replied, he then raised his eyebrows and said a lot of effort but very good work.

Now the best part of all is that there is no more sleeper material left. ooh rah

It was a challenging job using all my tools (and skills) in one activity and I enjoyed doing it, kept me busy just about all day, I guess the first Pew run removed any concern that it could be done.

enjoy

Robert

Story 1.
I made this Blanket Box from Camphor laurel for my wife.
Story 2.
The real story, my wife spotted this box without the lid in my shed full of timber one day and she said she was going to annex it for a blanket box to store clothing in. So I needed a lid.

I had comsumed all the suitable stock I had, so its on the phone to my friend Larry at LL Woodworks, and sure enough he had some timber but not a complete solid length. He recommended I pay Trevor Gaskill a visit.
So I ring Trevor, then off to visit a week later.
Meanwhile Trevor had arranged to get a slab delivered and when I arrived he was going to chain saw a piece off for me, Shock horror It was too nice to cut up so I bought the whole slab. Got it home and then decided it was still too nice to use for the lid.
So back I go to LL Workshop in Caboolture again to check out his supply, we found excellent pieces I could use (and lots of other timber I couldnt resist buying as well!) so I set to work.

The lid is a composition of seven sections, cut jointed thicknessed and biscuit jointed together.
I was originally going to use the Brass Butler tray hinges I had, but opted for the ones shown because I was not confident in how to install them, and I could not find any info on the installation process so after spending half a day trying to devise a template jig for them I shelved them for a “later project”

In Closing although its “just another box”
I must also express my thanks to both Larry and Trevor in their assistance, guidance and encouragement with the project.

Thanks Guys
The pictures show the result.

OK here is the story,

My friend arrived with a Aust red Cedar church pew.
He bought two of these from somewhere.
Both were originally wall mounted andso had no ends and and one had an intermediate leg missing.

He gave me some huge timber which looked like Jarrah and the size of a sleeper.

My first impression was it would look dreadful, and he should go get some Aust Red Cedar, oh yeah, still looking.
As I thought I may possibly need some credits in the after life I agreed to take it on.

Lazy Larry gave me some contacts to follow up on.

Anyway the timber was 180×70 mm, which was too big for my table saw so as the pew ends were 300mm I decided to dress them down and rip them.

OMG it was tough, I had what I thought was smoke coming from the saw blade at one stage.
Then onto my newly aquired 6” jointer, it handled it surprisingly well, biggest problem I had was lifting the timber and manouvering it about.

I then biscuit jointed them together and cut out the curves with a jig saw.
Ther was no way I could manage them with my band saw.

Now the Jig saw blade definately got hot as it had blueing marks on it when I finished.

I then ran around it with a 45 Deg profile cutter on the hand held router to produce the result you see here.

It took me about 2 days leaving everything to glue up overnight
Never again, the toll on the equipment was:-
1×10 ” saw blade
2 x Jig saw blades
2 x sets of jointer blades
and a router bit which is still in therapy.

In closing I must say the end result looked a lot better than I expected.

Its all just sitting there now awaiting either approval to continue or we go find some ARC somewhere

This box was inspired from a more complex one I saw in the annual “awards” from Lumberjocks.

I showed the original one to my wife Aurora and she was so impressed with it she asked me to make her one.
So I set out, firstly I must acknowledge the original design from (would you believe I cannot find the email or original project, however it was in the album from Lumberjocks, I shall have to keep looking as its important, meanwhile apologies to the original LJ whose design inspired me, I will find you and edit the Project soon!!!!

OK eventually found it, and it was only because I had printed out an image to work with, and that image had the number 63967 on it so I searched on 63967 it and found it again, no sign of the annual folder that the LJ site put out, though looked in all the places I knew of.

So credit and acknowledgment can now rightly go to:

Mike D AKA Retired Coastie for the Scroll Saw Box project/63967.

Mine is no where as complex however I managed to get the thumbs up from Aurora.

Construction:
The Base and lid of the box is from my stock pile of Camphor laurel.
Lock miter joints on the corners, and a tight fitting base,
The routing was with a template guide and a 45 deg bit, Template construction 45mins, routing 5mins each side!
The hinge was from Lazy Larry’s supply and I think it came from Canada.
The ribbon is a composite of three timbers Qld Walnut, ex (LLWW) timber sale items Radiata Pine and Qld Maple ex (LLWW) timber sale again.

I glued them all together and cut them into ribbons and blocks, curled the ribbon around a broom stick handle and glued them on, simple as that. (yeah right !)

Construction of the Bow: from the glued stock mentioned previously I cut the insides of the bows out on the band saw, then oscillating spindle sanded the insides smooth, band sawed the outer profile, next was onto the disk sander and carefully reduced the timber thickness to finish the four bows.
Mitered the ends and glued them all together as a separate module.

The story is:
The Twin Caskets have been finished!
It took me about two weeks part time to complete.
My router bits can again rest in peace when not in use.

I had a lots of fun making these two, and some annoying visitors didnt hang around for long when they saw what I was doing!

Main parts are: plywood for the box and lid, pine trim at the top bottom and for the handles
The veneer is Sapelle paper back
Finish is Estapol Polyurethane gloss
Inserts are fabric covered MDF

Bit more of a story: When it was time to line them I was looking for conventional lining material at a small shop nearby called “Trads Trading” its a shop that has just about everything, and its in the Cannon Hill shopping center competing with the usual giant department stores.

Anyway I found the “USA” material and thought I have got to have that, I know it will attract lots of interest from the LBJ members in the USA.

I also found some fishes, “Sleeping with the fishes” I thought, so in it went too.
Then there was the tree forrest scene all actually patchwork materials, but so what.

Then there was some motivational text material, a bit wasted on the occupant but again in it went.

All are on replacable inserts so anybody (pun) can have what ever they like, not that the occupier would complain anyway.

Just waiting now for my Canadian mate to spot it on the bench !!

Need to add a PS

My wife the lovely Aurora still doesn’t like them, and says that somebody you know will pass away.

Considering my age that is very likely,and it may well be me.

Such is life

This story has a note,
Timber is oregon or as some would also know it Douglas fir.

It was a recycled garden patio post removed after discovering this timber has very little resiliance to weather in outdoor locations if unprotected from excessive moisture, otherwise an excellent building material.

Not the sort of material selected to do box work with either.

It was destined for the rubbish transfer site on the back of my friends truck when I saw it and rescued it.

I carefully removed all the foreign objects, nails, screws, plates and general accumulated stones etc.

Then resawed it and removed most of the weathering rot.
If you look closely there is some sign of the decay.

I liked the way it had been quarter saw originally and so set about making something that would make his jaw drop the next time he visited.

Construction:
Its a basic 5 sided box simply carfully sawn up to ensure precise matching then butt jointed together with a lid of the same material surrounded by a frame to increase its size.

Sanded to suit rounded over on the lid and then inlayed with the respective banknotes.
At this stage it has had one coat of 2 pack gloss finish known as Perfect Gloss.

I then added flocking, to the interior. (yeah I know its a bit girlish but I enjoy playing about in my craft box of goodies)

The coin holder I drilled out then sanded down to the existing profile
Added some nice hinges and catches and there it is.

Amazing my mate said upon is return.

Enjoy

Regards
Robert Brennan

OK here is the story, it’s possibly dead boring but here we go.

I wanted to play about with various angles, bending plywood and generally use my skills and table saw so I made this box to store my router bits. Overall length is about 500mm from memory, I have a Canadian friend who is into these sort of bizzare things and he blessed it for his wife Tracy, I think they keep remote controls in it now.

I have heaps of construction notes and photos if you want to do something similar.

Beware though, you may draw some adverse attention, my wife Aurora was less than impressed with it saying it was bad karma and it was not to be brought into the house.

I enjoyed it though when it was in my workshop and any kids visited I teased them to take a peek inside !!

Update 1: Added additional pictures

Update 2: I have done a blog on the project, because it was attracting quite a lot of interest, so you can now go to there and get all the construction notes I made and a few more pictures as well.

enjoy

Regards

Robert Brennan

This is a Small box I made for my new Grand daughter Caitlin.

I was out visiting Lazy Larry’s wood work shop and had it with me, Larry suggested I post it so here it is.

General Construction:

I made it from 3 sections of timber glued together, the joins are under the inlay.
Its a typical Band saw box. cut the sides off. cut the lid off and then cut the bulk out.

I sanded the internals with a oscillating spindle sander, however you can again line it or whatever takes your fancy.
Then finalise a hinge arrangement and sand slightly the sides of the lid so you can get it open again! then glue the sides back on.
Add the inlay or whatever decoration you desire, sand to finish. I sanded it from 120 to 1200 Grit then finished the surface with danish oil.

Paulowina is a Chinese origin timber introduced to attempt to replace the de forresting of areas in a short time.

It is grown in plantations around NSW (AUST) in the Byron Bay Kyogle areas that I know of.

Enjoy,

P.S. If you are in Brisbane QLD and can make it to Lazy Larry’s Shop in Caboolture he has some really nice timbers which he is conducting a clearance sale for. ( you may know him as “degoose” a very odd name as I didn’t see any geese about when I was there.

P.P.S Don’t forget the Brisbane QLD Wood exhibition is on this weekend 18, 19 and 20 of May.

Regards

Robert Brennan