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Blog series by robscastle updated 08-12-2017 02:55 AM 31 parts 39849 reads 133 comments total

Part 1: Drum Sander Tip

07-11-2013 10:51 AM by robscastle | 3 comments »

Just recently I managed to buy a second hand drum sander.The sander is CARBA TEC badged but looks like a Jet 16 -32 Knockoff, as it certainly does not have the height of the current models. I gave it a bit of a beating when I first bought it and sanded just about everything in sight one day, mainly to familiarise my self with its capabilities of what it can and cannot do. In the process I managed to break a belt and clog some of the others with resin and wood.The grits I had removed...

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Part 2: Reverse Glue Joint work 1 Aug 2013

08-22-2013 04:46 AM by robscastle | 1 comment »

I have a couple of Reverse glue Joint bits for my router and one cutter for my shaper.I don’t use them very much, and as I had some left over timber from my Slope Tray work, I decided to give them a run.Or at least the shaper cutter. The timber had been jointed previously so there was not a lot of preparation required.Shop bought finished timber would be the same, rough sawn would require jointing prior to use.The Reviews I read on using a Glue Joint Bit has a mixed opinion as to ...

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Part 3: Reverse Glue joint at 90 deg Aug 2013

08-23-2013 08:18 AM by robscastle | 1 comment »

Before dismantling my shaper I decided to do some more 90 degree reverse glue joint work. I had some timber needing attention so I set it up again using method 2, cut the set up blocks from the single piece of timber. From the initial eyball setup I made another two adjustments and it was again a perfect fit. So bring on the 90 deg joint. Keeping in mind I was just using the shaper cutter and not a bearing mounted bit this is the result I got. Picture 1. This is the test cut...

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Part 4: Painters Tape Test Sample

08-28-2013 02:41 AM by robscastle | 5 comments »

If you read my project post “Aurora’s Lunch Caddy” you may have picked up on the weeping Black Dye problem I encountered.Well MarkwithaK responded and directed me to an other product FROGTAPE. So I checked it out on the net, not only did I find the tape I also saw some chevron tape as well both of which I would be interested to “Test Out” I found Masters (an Ozzie version of Lowes) stock the product so I hopped off to purchase some.Well sure enough there...

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Part 5: Painters Tape Test No 2

09-02-2013 10:31 PM by robscastle | 4 comments »

I conducted a second test with wood dye after reading a post by badcrayon suggesting using Sanding Sealer to assist in masking the dye area. Here are the results I obtained. Picture No 1: The product used and the test Sample Picture No 2: Sanding sealer applied below the first tape Picture No 3: The first tape relocated to the top of the sealer edge Picture No 4: A second tape applied to bare timber above the test area. Picture No 5: The dye applied with a p...

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Part 6: Dye and Painters Tape Test No 3 and final

09-04-2013 06:15 AM by robscastle | 5 comments »

OK I have conducted yet another test using a suggestion by Jumbojack to score the edge of the timber before dying to contain the dye. He (I assume Jumbojack is male otherwise apologies on the gender slipup) has added a comment and photos supporting his method on the previous Tool tip # 5 worth and well worth further investigation. So here we go (and this is the last in the Dye Painters Tape series) I set up another test sample, I needed to delineated the area so I drew a semi circle ...

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Part 7: Check out these monsters

09-06-2013 08:37 AM by robscastle | 2 comments »

Round Over bits 2, 2.5 and 3” ebay $14 to $16 free delivery, (takes a while) but worth the wait. Awaiting delivery of the 3” However here is a test run of the 2.5 in action Picture 1, Tool set up Guards and etc removed as per the usual. I needed to do a glue up the get the size of 64mm approx. Picture 2. Work in progress. Picture 3. Trimmed and finished Picture 4. A close up of the symmetry. Picture 5. ebay details showing the item, the costs, delivery and the su...

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Part 8: Plastic spring hand Clamps

10-23-2013 09:05 AM by robscastle | 8 comments »

These clamps are in just about every shop, and are useful for all sorts of applications. I was making some veneer inlay strips and decided to use them to clamp the work whilst the glue dried. Well to my surprise they began snapping in various areas. The failures ranged from the tip right back to the pivot point, very odd to say the least. As I had finished work for the day and I was about to bin them when I decided to dismantle them and make two sets from four. Well that wa...

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Part 9: Cleaning large Dust Extractors

04-21-2014 12:02 AM by robscastle | 1 comment »

I have been working in Sydney with my boys doing electrical work at schools whilst the holidays are on.One of the tasks was to repair restore broken switches and emergency stops in the wood working shop. We then had to service the Outdoor Dust Collector/Extractor. (just the job for an electrician!) Good thing I have an interest in wood working ! otherwise it would have been a “No Way reply! My son and I accepted the task and away we went. We opened the side access panels of ...

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Part 10: Inlay onlay with the Inlay Kit

06-17-2014 09:49 PM by robscastle | 2 comments »

This blog is based on using the Inlay Kit of which has been the subject of many reviews so I will not be going into any detailed description of the kit here, just its application a littile out of its intended design. I was cleaning up and found a short piece of Camphor Laurel timber with a knot hole in it, pretty usless I thought and was going to dump it. I didnt have much to do this day so put it on the table saw. It was there I noticed it had a massive twist in it also rendering it al...

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Part 11: Liquid Hide Glue expired no good? Pt 1

07-23-2014 12:29 AM by robscastle | 6 comments »

Earlier in 2014 I was working with Liquid hide glue, and had a container on the shelf, upon checking it there was a shelf life expiry date 20/2010 so I went and bought another. I did some tests on both at the time, pre May 2014 and I did not see any discernable differences in the expired glue and the fresh batch I had just bought, so both went on the shelf. There they stayed until today, I was readings Stefangs blog on his home made LHG. He conducted some strength destruction tests o...

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Part 12: Liquid Hide Glue expired no good Pt 2 Stress test results

07-24-2014 06:11 AM by robscastle | 3 comments »

OK its 24 hr plus and the LHG test results are in. Shear Test Method:All I did was hold each of the ends and pull them apart in line with the glue joint, very scientific.However there were some surprising results observed. LHG Test piece 1. Medium amount of glue Results:The A sample broke shearing wood and glueThe B sample broke very easly and indicated a glue failure, no surprises there. Observations:As expected the B sample glue failed and failed very early in relation to effor...

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Part 13: Cutting roof ridge capping on the Table Saw

08-01-2014 06:59 AM by robscastle | 4 comments »

In Dec 2013 I made a wooden Mower Shed from recycled materials. In that construction I did not make or fit ridge capping to the roof. I have just completed the second “Mower Shed” and due process has taken place and I have made some improvements.Namely the fittment of custom made ridge capping. This is how I did it: First up select some suitable material for your Ridge Capping. The standard roof pitch here is 20 to 30 degrees, so I chose 22.5 deg as my roof ...

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Part 14: Wood Polishing

09-05-2014 08:58 AM by robscastle | 5 comments »

I was polishing some wood this week and thought I should post the results for other LJs that may find the activity and results something they may want to try out. The timber is recycled Jarrah Riddled with nails screws and bolts. This image shows a before and after shot of some timber. Now a series of rotated images and again All well and good you may say but how was it done? Firstly ensure you have a saw blade…... Opps Looks like some of the blog...

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Part 15: Flattening Timber

10-13-2014 09:53 AM by robscastle | 2 comments »

This is a topic just about flogged to death everywhere by lots of very knowledgable woodworkers. so I thought I should give it a go if only to exercise all the effort so many woodworkers have put into demonstrating the various methods and practices. So here we go: I was fortnunate enough to get a couple of small pieces of Water/Swamp Gum today. I brought it all inside and had a good look at itThere are six pieces all up One had a lot of twists and was just about small...

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Part 16: Pull saw at work

10-20-2014 11:12 AM by robscastle | 4 comments »

I have a small pull saw and its a great asset in the wood tool kit.Today I was making a Walnut Key Holder and in the production of it I needed to cut a small piece from the key to square off the key stop. As it was right in the radius of the key slot I decided to see if my pull saw would do the job. This is a close up of the final result. I was very happy with the result, and with a little sanding later it will look OK. So there you have it a pull saw at work and the results...

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Part 17: Hollow Chisel Mortiser HCM Chisel Tune Up

06-28-2015 08:27 AM by robscastle | 4 comments »

I have been reading a FWW Magazine of which had heaps of articles of interest, one of those was an artice on Hollow Chisel Mortisers (HCM) I had been making some M&T joints and a minature stair rail with my HCM.The stair rail The scale and Chisel size may not be the best and the M&T were garbage (NWP) With the very unsatisfactory results I decided to do more research and checked out some LJ Blogs/reviews.It seems HCM do not get rave reviews for all sorts of operationa...

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Part 18: Hollow Chisel Mortiser HCM Tune up More Preparation work

07-01-2015 05:25 AM by robscastle | 0 comments »

After completing lapping and polishing all the Hollow Chisel (HC) external surfaces it was time to go inside.It was a pretty ugly view I tell you. A very rough surface finish indeed, so out with the paper and dowel stick, (now this is OK for 5/8 1/2 and 3/8 but below that its very tricky so I used a dremmel. (Psst its really and Ozito Knock off) My first results with paper were encouraging but very slow going so I fitted up the dremell with some stones and tried that. A much better ...

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Part 19: Hollow Chisel Motriser HCM Test run and Results

07-01-2015 06:20 AM by robscastle | 7 comments »

I conducted some tests using similar setup conditions A piece of softwood and a piece of hardwod was used,The gap between the auger and Hollow Chisel (HC) was 2.5mm in each testA test instrument for automotive testing was used to measure temperature with a K type thermocoupleA luggage scale and chain was used for the force tests. The test results are approximate only and are subject to human variations but I did my best to replicate identical conditions as much as possible. So here ...

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Part 20: Hollow Chisel Mortiser Tune Up Pt3

03-21-2016 12:48 AM by robscastle | 2 comments »

Hollow Chisel Mortiser (HCM) Tune Up Part 3 Well its been a long time coming for part 3 mainly because the HCM does not get much continual use, however because my No 4 son Toby asked for some more clothes dryers for his friends the HCM was brought out to do the job and it prompted me to finish the HCM Tune up blog series, so here we go. Some Background The project The knock apart dryers have pegged mortices on the posts and shouldered tenons on the rails at each end. The Hollo...

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Part 21: Drilling Dimples or more correctly Pips in wood

04-03-2016 12:55 AM by robscastle | 4 comments »

In my Woodworking adventures I have been attempting to cut Dimples or Pips in wood. What I have discovered may be of interest. The various methods I used. 1 . Router cove bit in a Radial Arm Drill.This worked to a varing degree and gave equally varing results.However a drill press cannot obtain the RPM expected for routing good results. 2. Hand held die grinder and carbide bitFail (see the raggedy yellow pip)Too hard to hold in position 3. Die grinder in drill PressProduced re...

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Part 22: Yonico Router bits

04-12-2016 12:37 PM by robscastle | 3 comments »

This blog although factual is technically incorrect see Yonico Router bits Technical information Somebody really goofed with these, apart from the sucker who bought them. I saw these on ebay I have some Yonico bits so I was not too concerned, but I should have been starting from the heading.5x Rail & stile half round, I am not sure how you would use them for Rail & Stile work however the are certainly half round.Somebody has corrected the heading later in the body of the ...

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Part 23: Yonico router Bits Technical information

04-17-2016 12:13 AM by robscastle | 12 comments »

After posting the blog on the Yonico Bullnose router bits I did some extensive reseach on why this “manufacturing Goof” could happen. As it turns out I recieved physically exactly what was advertised, albeit description errors which could be explained away in “translation errors” or possibly more correctly possibly lack of technical knowledge on the matter. (My self included) So what did I find? 1 Router bits with this type of profile come in two forms or styl...

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Part 24: Hollow Chisel Morticer chisel sharpening angles found!

04-28-2016 08:20 AM by robscastle | 4 comments »

Well I have eventually tracked down some documented information on the elusive sharpening angles, and the vague references to the mystery two cutting edge type Augers. This is the latest doctrine available to my knowledge, however as always if I am incorrect please let me know! Here we go breaking News! Page 135Note: There is also a reference to enlarging the chip extraction port. (it must have been originally small and evolved to what we see today) possibly from users enlarging th...

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Part 25: Making Architrave Corner Blocks

06-03-2016 05:29 AM by robscastle | 7 comments »

I needed to see if I could make some door trim Corner Blocks for a houseThe job has been on the back burner for some time as I couldnt figure out how to do it. The router bit I have is called a Dragon Ball and its 2” or 50 mm diameter not some thing you could put in a hand held router.I initally tried my drill press but it was an outright all round fail, not enough RPM, not enough power, so that idea was scrapped almost as quickly as it started. I then decided to mount it in my sh...

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Part 26: HDPE in the Planer Thicknesser

02-20-2017 09:05 AM by robscastle | 10 comments »

I see a few posts regarding the machining of HDPE aka HMDP and even PEHD. Just to reassure the LJs that were concerned about melting, exploding, and generally screwing up machines, here is some HDPE I scavenged and planed to remove the wear grooves so I could use it again. This is what it looked like upon recovery from the scrap bin. End View The surface to be worked The first Pass results Then the final results Again the end view Now the worked surface ...

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Part 27: Removing Iron stains from timber

03-10-2017 01:36 AM by robscastle | 7 comments »

OK first up acknowledgements to Mark Wilson for educating me on removing iron stains from naills in wood using Oxalic Acid. I thought I may be able to use common household products according to information I read on the internet so after visiting under the sink I set to work. I did three tests with the same test sample offcut CLR results no change. Active ingredients not disclosed apart from not containing any phosphates Mould AwayResults no change Active ingredients Sodium hyd...

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Part 28: Jointing timber using a bandsaw.

04-14-2017 08:54 AM by robscastle | 7 comments »

I am making a laminated seat for a chair its 500mm x 500mm x 50mm.I do not have any timber that size so I had to make it by laminating and jointing a series of pieces together. Layer 1 is two pieces that will do the jobLayer 2 will be 4 pieces to complete the glue up. This is the raw material I want to use. Piece 1 and 2 are what I need for Layer 1 and piece 3 and 4 butt joined to start Layer 2. But after working out I cannot cut both of them straight without reducing the wid...

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Part 29: Alternative use for Transfer Punches

07-12-2017 01:47 AM by robscastle | 4 comments »

I know everybody possibly has a set of transfer punches they use for aligning dowels and all sorts of other holes in our woodworking activities. However I found a alternative use for them as precision gauges. I was busy making some boxes with dividers for somebody you all know when I began fitting the dividers.It was then that I found I needed to resaw some of the dividers 1mm narrower to ensure a precise fit. As I only have a fairly crude setup on my crosscut sled I found tryin...

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Part 30: Tool air cooler

07-19-2017 09:11 PM by robscastle | 5 comments »

Majuvla’s post prompted this one.Not wanting to hijack his post or to be seen as to be tacking on the end of his here it is. My grinder I use for linishing and all those sorts of jobs, also has a white wheel fitted for sharpening tools as well.When sharpening chisels and items sensitve to changes from heat build up they can be cooled with chilled compressed air directed through a vortex to prevent the tool being subjected to temperature build up. Its operation requires dry cl...

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Part 31: Using the Standard Gifkins Dovetail Jig with timber wider than the recommended 310mm

08-12-2017 02:55 AM by robscastle | 1 comment »

The Gifkins Dovetail Jig set up with the Standard template B10 series template has a recommended dimensions of:- 14mm up to 22mm with a maximum width of 310mm. The additional pieces I added to my Toolmakers Chest pushed the width in paticular to 325mm, too big to fit between the Jigs Sliding stops.So to re route my project I removed the Sliding stops and aligned the existing tails and pins by feel and eye. Note: To be able to do this accurately you should have new sacrificial backb...

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