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22K views 35 replies 12 participants last post by  pottz 
#1 ·
a 67.5 degree Jig

In the process of building my Octagonal Slope Sided Serving Tray ( standby for this Project Post as its being a real nightmare to assemble) I needed too add biscuits in the butt joints to reinforce them and make the assembly more stable.

The basic details of the tray sides are that they have 40mm rails and 80mm ends with handles in them.

I wanted to ensure the joints were robust enough so decided to add "O" size biscuits to reinforce the joints.

Now getting a groove cut in the sides after they were cut for assembly took some thought.
I could easily elevate the rails to 22.5 deg but the alternating 10 deg on each end posed a bit of a challenge
After some thought I decided to use an edge banding clamp I had.

I attached it by counter boring the sides with 22mm Forstner bit in enough to hold the pads and simply screwing it on.

I inserted the rails under the third clamp and pivoted it left or right to align with the face of the biscuit cutter.

Wood Gas Flooring Machine Metal


The base was MDF, and if it was to be used on a continual basis the base should be at least HDF or a similar durable material.

Wood Bumper Gas Automotive exterior Tool


A note: Type "0" biscuits are 47mm 15 mm x 4mm the stock for the sides without handles is only 40mm.
So this means I had to cut part of the biscuit off, for this I use a pair of diagonal wire cutters.

Once the rails were aligned to the index marks it was a simple matter of cutting the biscuit recess.

Wood Security Gas Household hardware Composite material


After each end was cut the rail was reversed and the opposite 10 deg angle re aligned and the cut repeated.
I have not taken a shot showing the reversal of the stock, but its a reverse of the image of the stock shown.

Handheld power drill Drill Saw Wood Tool
 

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#2 ·
a 67.5 degree Jig

In the process of building my Octagonal Slope Sided Serving Tray ( standby for this Project Post as its being a real nightmare to assemble) I needed too add biscuits in the butt joints to reinforce them and make the assembly more stable.

The basic details of the tray sides are that they have 40mm rails and 80mm ends with handles in them.

I wanted to ensure the joints were robust enough so decided to add "O" size biscuits to reinforce the joints.

Now getting a groove cut in the sides after they were cut for assembly took some thought.
I could easily elevate the rails to 22.5 deg but the alternating 10 deg on each end posed a bit of a challenge
After some thought I decided to use an edge banding clamp I had.

I attached it by counter boring the sides with 22mm Forstner bit in enough to hold the pads and simply screwing it on.

I inserted the rails under the third clamp and pivoted it left or right to align with the face of the biscuit cutter.

Wood Gas Flooring Machine Metal


The base was MDF, and if it was to be used on a continual basis the base should be at least HDF or a similar durable material.

Wood Bumper Gas Automotive exterior Tool


A note: Type "0" biscuits are 47mm 15 mm x 4mm the stock for the sides without handles is only 40mm.
So this means I had to cut part of the biscuit off, for this I use a pair of diagonal wire cutters.

Once the rails were aligned to the index marks it was a simple matter of cutting the biscuit recess.

Wood Security Gas Household hardware Composite material


After each end was cut the rail was reversed and the opposite 10 deg angle re aligned and the cut repeated.
I have not taken a shot showing the reversal of the stock, but its a reverse of the image of the stock shown.

Handheld power drill Drill Saw Wood Tool
Very innovated. I'll check your project to see if you've posted it.
 

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#3 ·
Jig for the Ute Box Lid

I wanted to make a curved lid for my "Ute Box" so I spent most of the day perfecting a "Curved Vice/Clamp" jig to do the job,

Backgound: The staved part of the lid has five sections joined by a loose tongue and groove at a joint angle of 10 degrees.

Some years ago I made some stave projects and had a steep learning curve trying to glue them all together, in that case I used a plastic cable drum and ratchet straps.

This time I wanted to use a curved vice or clamp so I set to work with some sophisticated plans drawn in chalk on the garage floor.

Wood Triangle Creative arts Cone Tints and shades


I made a prototype with some small identical stave pieces to get a concept of what I needed, they are the items sitting at the front.

The frame held the center stave at zero degrees the the next two were at 10 degrees then 20 degrees at the final pieces

Automotive tire Tire Motor vehicle Wheel Road surface


There are three frames duplicated with exactly the same dimensions to hold the lid staves in this case.

I used my drop saw at 10, and 20 deg and cut each block on either end of the timber then moved to the table saw set at 90 deg and a stop block set at the required heights.
I cut up the blocks to the required lengths from the measurenents taken directly from the physical setup.

I used a slot cutter set up in my shaper and a temporary 5 deg table to achieve the T&G alignment

The odd looking staggered ends are for a end piece which will be cut into the top after the glue has set.

Have a look at the small lid to the right I made some years ago this may explain the concept of the odd looking ends.

Wood Wood stain Rectangle Plank Composite material


It all fitted together well and I was pleased with it. Issy Swan would be proud of me!!

Tomorrow it will be tested when I do the glue up, possibly all a bit over the top for a box (no pun intended) but it was enjoyable getting the jig perfected
 

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#4 ·
Jig for the Ute Box Lid

I wanted to make a curved lid for my "Ute Box" so I spent most of the day perfecting a "Curved Vice/Clamp" jig to do the job,

Backgound: The staved part of the lid has five sections joined by a loose tongue and groove at a joint angle of 10 degrees.

Some years ago I made some stave projects and had a steep learning curve trying to glue them all together, in that case I used a plastic cable drum and ratchet straps.

This time I wanted to use a curved vice or clamp so I set to work with some sophisticated plans drawn in chalk on the garage floor.

Wood Triangle Creative arts Cone Tints and shades


I made a prototype with some small identical stave pieces to get a concept of what I needed, they are the items sitting at the front.

The frame held the center stave at zero degrees the the next two were at 10 degrees then 20 degrees at the final pieces

Automotive tire Tire Motor vehicle Wheel Road surface


There are three frames duplicated with exactly the same dimensions to hold the lid staves in this case.

I used my drop saw at 10, and 20 deg and cut each block on either end of the timber then moved to the table saw set at 90 deg and a stop block set at the required heights.
I cut up the blocks to the required lengths from the measurenents taken directly from the physical setup.

I used a slot cutter set up in my shaper and a temporary 5 deg table to achieve the T&G alignment

The odd looking staggered ends are for a end piece which will be cut into the top after the glue has set.

Have a look at the small lid to the right I made some years ago this may explain the concept of the odd looking ends.

Wood Wood stain Rectangle Plank Composite material


It all fitted together well and I was pleased with it. Issy Swan would be proud of me!!

Tomorrow it will be tested when I do the glue up, possibly all a bit over the top for a box (no pun intended) but it was enjoyable getting the jig perfected
Neat.
Good work, looks like fun.

Steve
 

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#8 ·
Another Shaper Dough Nut or is it Donut?

I made this jig to enable me to re-route the common stress relief recesses in floor boards that I was using.

I am making a box from floorboard off cuts for a friend as a house warming gift but its an unfinished project at the moment so more on it later.
The box has a curved handle on the lid and its the concave section that I needed to do some additional finish work on.
First up I clamped up the material that I used for the handle to produce the required curve.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Lumber


It was then upon releasing it from the clamp I saw I needed to do improvement work the concave surface.

So the the donut jig commenced.

Road surface Wood Asphalt Gas Composite material


I used a reasonably large piece of timber so as to be able to clamp it on the table and use it as a fence.
I traced a curve from a paint tin onto the timber and then cut it out on the bandsaw.
I then cut a 38mm hole with a forstner to accomodate the router bit

Wood Gas Road surface Concrete Composite material


Fitted it all up and then raised the bit to exit the donut in the respective location.

Here is a shot of the handle and the work area I wanted to improve on

Wood Wood stain Workbench Hardwood Composite material


The jig worked well and cleaned out the recess nicely.
The bit I used was a 1/2" round over bit but only using the straight cutting edge part, any other suitable bit would work just as well.

Unfortunately when I finished it all I didnt like the result so I used the linisher to sand it smooth again, oh well these things happen.

Interest comment: Who knows the correct terminology? Dough nut or Donut.
 

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#9 ·
Another Shaper Dough Nut or is it Donut?

I made this jig to enable me to re-route the common stress relief recesses in floor boards that I was using.

I am making a box from floorboard off cuts for a friend as a house warming gift but its an unfinished project at the moment so more on it later.
The box has a curved handle on the lid and its the concave section that I needed to do some additional finish work on.
First up I clamped up the material that I used for the handle to produce the required curve.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Lumber


It was then upon releasing it from the clamp I saw I needed to do improvement work the concave surface.

So the the donut jig commenced.

Road surface Wood Asphalt Gas Composite material


I used a reasonably large piece of timber so as to be able to clamp it on the table and use it as a fence.
I traced a curve from a paint tin onto the timber and then cut it out on the bandsaw.
I then cut a 38mm hole with a forstner to accomodate the router bit

Wood Gas Road surface Concrete Composite material


Fitted it all up and then raised the bit to exit the donut in the respective location.

Here is a shot of the handle and the work area I wanted to improve on

Wood Wood stain Workbench Hardwood Composite material


The jig worked well and cleaned out the recess nicely.
The bit I used was a 1/2" round over bit but only using the straight cutting edge part, any other suitable bit would work just as well.

Unfortunately when I finished it all I didnt like the result so I used the linisher to sand it smooth again, oh well these things happen.

Interest comment: Who knows the correct terminology? Dough nut or Donut.
Um, what's it supposed to do, Rob?
 

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#14 ·
Sungka board dimensions and my templates

This Blog is primarily intended for Anthony (AKA anthm27) but for all to enjoy if so desired.

A bit of history.

First up I was enlightened by George Coles back in 2015 when I was first requested by my wife Aurora to make her a Sungka Board (AKA Mancala) which I had absolutely no idea about, so knowing George was in the Phillipines I hit him up for some info.

So acknowledgement to George for his input.

You may wish to check out some of his projects, some most impressive from my point of view.

Rectangle Font Electronic device Screenshot Parallel


What George said if you cannot read it.

Re: Sungka board game
Message

Hi Robert

The game has many board sizes that I have seen around Asia. The holes vary from 50 mm - 100 mm. The determining factor is the size of the shells used. I have seen the holes as big as 150 mm. The most common I see is between 80 - 100 mm holes.

Hope this helps.

Best regards

George

EOM

As you can see the overall dimensions are a personal choice.

I made my template with the available holesaws I had.

Wood Rectangle Gas Cooking Wood stain


One hole saw was about 65 mm and the other about 89 mm

I should have used a bowl cutter but it met with a nasty accident and I was unable to get it repaired at the time. So being poor I modified a Cove bit by fitting a bearing.

Automotive lighting Wood Saw Tool Gas


This works OK for me but it means more sanding on the base of the recess to get it flat.

The templates I made from MDF and the reason there is two because I found they were easly damaged if you withdraw the router with the bit spinning.

Brown Dishware Tableware Wood Serveware


The overall size of my finished Sungka boards finished was 725 mm x 190 mm x 28 mm min, to whatever thickness you choose
As George indicated in his reply to me the size of the holes can vary, hence the overall dimensions will be determined by your size choice and hence the length and width will vary accordingly.

The template is attached to the board material by four screws at the ends, the area may will be cut off later, again a personal choice.

To cut the resesses I used two initial settings, one with the bearing engaging the template only then the second engaging the template and material being cut.

Wood Handwriting Ruler Wood stain Guitar accessory


In my case continuing down to a depth of 20 mm.

Neck Wood Waist Chest Font


So that should cover it Anthony, otherwise ask away.
 

Attachments

#15 ·
Sungka board dimensions and my templates

This Blog is primarily intended for Anthony (AKA anthm27) but for all to enjoy if so desired.

A bit of history.

First up I was enlightened by George Coles back in 2015 when I was first requested by my wife Aurora to make her a Sungka Board (AKA Mancala) which I had absolutely no idea about, so knowing George was in the Phillipines I hit him up for some info.

So acknowledgement to George for his input.

You may wish to check out some of his projects, some most impressive from my point of view.

Rectangle Font Electronic device Screenshot Parallel


What George said if you cannot read it.

Re: Sungka board game
Message

Hi Robert

The game has many board sizes that I have seen around Asia. The holes vary from 50 mm - 100 mm. The determining factor is the size of the shells used. I have seen the holes as big as 150 mm. The most common I see is between 80 - 100 mm holes.

Hope this helps.

Best regards

George

EOM

As you can see the overall dimensions are a personal choice.

I made my template with the available holesaws I had.

Wood Rectangle Gas Cooking Wood stain


One hole saw was about 65 mm and the other about 89 mm

I should have used a bowl cutter but it met with a nasty accident and I was unable to get it repaired at the time. So being poor I modified a Cove bit by fitting a bearing.

Automotive lighting Wood Saw Tool Gas


This works OK for me but it means more sanding on the base of the recess to get it flat.

The templates I made from MDF and the reason there is two because I found they were easly damaged if you withdraw the router with the bit spinning.

Brown Dishware Tableware Wood Serveware


The overall size of my finished Sungka boards finished was 725 mm x 190 mm x 28 mm min, to whatever thickness you choose
As George indicated in his reply to me the size of the holes can vary, hence the overall dimensions will be determined by your size choice and hence the length and width will vary accordingly.

The template is attached to the board material by four screws at the ends, the area may will be cut off later, again a personal choice.

To cut the resesses I used two initial settings, one with the bearing engaging the template only then the second engaging the template and material being cut.

Wood Handwriting Ruler Wood stain Guitar accessory


In my case continuing down to a depth of 20 mm.

Neck Wood Waist Chest Font


So that should cover it Anthony, otherwise ask away.
This Blog is primarily intended for Anthony (AKA anthm27) but for all to enjoy if so desired.
- robscastle
May I choose not to enjoy anthm27... nothing personal but the missus might have words?

..... about 65 mm and the other about 89 mm…..
- robscastle
Damn, with modern technology you'd think they'd get the measurements exact… not about…

Sorry rc, the missus already asked the surgeon to go for the head instead….
..... but it met with a nasty accident and I was unable to get it repaired…..
- robscastle
PM me for the details of my surgeon!

.... works OK for me but it means more sanding on the base of the recess to get it flat…..
- robscastle
Rob, if you ever find rc, tell him to open his door and charge the freeloaders for the Sungkas and you'd be able to supplement one of therse Arbortech units... won't keep the visitors at bay but may help reduce production time/costs… and you won't have to pay exorbitant shipping costs…. go USPS, my next share portfolio investment.
..... attached to the board material by four screws at the ends…..
- robscastle
Ever thought of double sided tape… you won't have to fill the screw holes with pink Builders Bog!
In my case continuing down to a depth of 20 mm.
- robscastle
Thank god you are a perfectionist… 20mm… NOT about 20mm.

..... So that should cover … Anthony….
- robscastle
A bucket of water would have been easier and quicker!

What do you scream when you win a game??? Sungaka Mate!

PS. What's all this crap about???... I'm in pain and I like to share…
 

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#30 ·
Parf System MkI

I was on a roll with my recycled beaded Face frame cabinet up to breaking it when I rotated it.

So it was time for a coffee and sulk, however I found I had a delivery!

Yippee!!!

Wood Floor Wall Flooring Gas


It was the Parf System Mk I from LBD.

I had a small portable work bench I use with saw horses which would be a suitable project to learn how to convert

Wood Table Office ruler Wood stain Plank


I wont bore you to death with the process involved as LBD Bobmedic and Dave Stanfield have covered it better than I ever could.

so here is the results for you to examine critique and or comment on if you wish

after completing all I could do I did some holy checks
hallelujah 100% perfect on rows.

Wood Plant Road surface Floor Flooring


Columns the same.

Wood Table Wood stain Hardwood Kitchen utensil


.... apart from one ******************************!

Go Wood Table Wood stain Hardwood


I am not sure what happened but obviously its operator error. the system is too precise for any other explanation.

Ruler Office ruler Wood Hardwood Wood stain


O well I need to buy a couple of accessories, plug the error and start again.

I already have my polishing set up ready to convert to Power Lock Dogs

Growl woof bark I am happy!

Dog Carnivore Dog breed Grass Terrestrial animal
 

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#31 ·
Parf System MkI

I was on a roll with my recycled beaded Face frame cabinet up to breaking it when I rotated it.

So it was time for a coffee and sulk, however I found I had a delivery!

Yippee!!!

Wood Floor Wall Flooring Gas


It was the Parf System Mk I from LBD.

I had a small portable work bench I use with saw horses which would be a suitable project to learn how to convert

Wood Table Office ruler Wood stain Plank


I wont bore you to death with the process involved as LBD Bobmedic and Dave Stanfield have covered it better than I ever could.

so here is the results for you to examine critique and or comment on if you wish

after completing all I could do I did some holy checks
hallelujah 100% perfect on rows.

Wood Plant Road surface Floor Flooring


Columns the same.

Wood Table Wood stain Hardwood Kitchen utensil


.... apart from one ******************************!

Go Wood Table Wood stain Hardwood


I am not sure what happened but obviously its operator error. the system is too precise for any other explanation.

Ruler Office ruler Wood Hardwood Wood stain


O well I need to buy a couple of accessories, plug the error and start again.

I already have my polishing set up ready to convert to Power Lock Dogs

Growl woof bark I am happy!

Dog Carnivore Dog breed Grass Terrestrial animal
well Rob, I have to say - ignorance abounds here in Ohio I had to google Parf System Mk I to see what you were talking about. It's an awful handy tool -
 

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