If you are a Woodsmith Tip person every now and then a Woodsmith Video tip is posted.
Over the Easter Break I received the Rabbeted Miter Joint video tip and thought I would give it a run.
Some differences between my set up and that shown in the video demonstration.
I do not have a left tilting saw so the cut is inverted on one section.
I used a stop block instead of a rubbing strip
I did not use an outrigger
I did not switch blades from a Rip blade to a Crosscut Blade.
I used some recycled timber from a bed frame, unjointed or thicknessed.
Here is my initial plan and setup.
I used a setup block as you need to switch between 90 deg and 45 deg then return to the initial 90 deg depth setting.
The first 90 deg depth cut is at the width of your timber(more on the width later) and square, being about 3mm x 3mm
Do this on two pieces and four ends
Now cut the 45 deg angle.
You should have a profile like this.
Now return to 90 deg and cut the other two pieces but with the kerf inside the profile of the first, you are now going to leave a step.
Set the saw back to 45 deg and raise the blade so it cuts below the step only.
Put them together and the profile will look like this.
Check each miter and if all is OK you have done well.
I thought all was good and wanted to see how accurate it was so I applied a band clamp and took some more pictures.
I wondered why there was an overlap on joints 1 and 2 so I checked the timber width with a vernier
The rail between Joint 1 and 2 was 22mm approx and between 3 and 4 21mm approx
Joint 1 2 side
Joint 3 4 Side
I tried to get a shot with light showing between the square and the timber frame but failed!
Attempt 3 ( and give up)
But as you can see it clamps up OK
The Rabbeted miter joint does work there is a bit of setting up then back and forth but using only a table saw a satisfactory joint can be produced.
With jointed and thicknessed timber I would expect no overlapping and an perfect joint for your project
-- Regards Robert