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Box making Curved Front Box

34K views 101 replies 27 participants last post by  JoeLyddon 
#1 ·
In the begining there was a raggedy piece of wood

I haven't been doing too much today apart from tidying up.
You can only shuffle stuff about from one spot to other before boredom sets in.

So I found this piece of wood as I was tidying up and thought I would turn it into some box stock.

It was a bit raggedy but I thought I may be able to get enough timber to make a box.

So as I had jointed it already I simply rolled out my band saw and rule to determine if I could get three slices about 10mm and enough for the base. The timber was 46.8mm thick so I determined I could get 3 x pieces at 14mm and 1 x at 5mm which would give me enough material to make the front back and sides with a base at least.

Here is the stock.

Its Camphor Laurel and has a rough life, tickled with a chain saw by the looks and broken off at the other end

Brown Wood Grey Flooring Beige


Wood Composite material Hardwood Wood stain Rectangle


Brown Table Wood Flooring Rectangle


After measuring it up I set up the saw and began cutting.

Wheel Tire Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive lighting


I wanted to maintain a very accurate cut as I didnt have too much excess to play with so I withdrew it and made the second cut before completing the first, this was done to maintain stability.
Then worked my way through both.

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


The thickest part in the middle will become one side and the base.

I laid out the re saw work to have a look at what I finished up with.

Brown Rectangle Wood Floor Flooring


Then it was simply a matter of ripping suitable widths and then cutting off the rubbish to determine the lengths.

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Plank


I think I have enough to be able to make a small box.

Brown Wood Rectangle Wood stain Plank


With that all done I decided to put a new blade on the bandsaw and finished for the day.

Automotive tire Wood Engineering Wheel Composite material


Stay tuned for the next progress report
 

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#2 ·
In the begining there was a raggedy piece of wood

I haven't been doing too much today apart from tidying up.
You can only shuffle stuff about from one spot to other before boredom sets in.

So I found this piece of wood as I was tidying up and thought I would turn it into some box stock.

It was a bit raggedy but I thought I may be able to get enough timber to make a box.

So as I had jointed it already I simply rolled out my band saw and rule to determine if I could get three slices about 10mm and enough for the base. The timber was 46.8mm thick so I determined I could get 3 x pieces at 14mm and 1 x at 5mm which would give me enough material to make the front back and sides with a base at least.

Here is the stock.

Its Camphor Laurel and has a rough life, tickled with a chain saw by the looks and broken off at the other end

Brown Wood Grey Flooring Beige


Wood Composite material Hardwood Wood stain Rectangle


Brown Table Wood Flooring Rectangle


After measuring it up I set up the saw and began cutting.

Wheel Tire Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive lighting


I wanted to maintain a very accurate cut as I didnt have too much excess to play with so I withdrew it and made the second cut before completing the first, this was done to maintain stability.
Then worked my way through both.

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


The thickest part in the middle will become one side and the base.

I laid out the re saw work to have a look at what I finished up with.

Brown Rectangle Wood Floor Flooring


Then it was simply a matter of ripping suitable widths and then cutting off the rubbish to determine the lengths.

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Plank


I think I have enough to be able to make a small box.

Brown Wood Rectangle Wood stain Plank


With that all done I decided to put a new blade on the bandsaw and finished for the day.

Automotive tire Wood Engineering Wheel Composite material


Stay tuned for the next progress report
You got some real pretty wood from that Rob and nicely cut. Coincidentally, I too use those same small blades on my bandsaw. Very good for cutting small diameter circles.
 

Attachments

#3 ·
In the begining there was a raggedy piece of wood

I haven't been doing too much today apart from tidying up.
You can only shuffle stuff about from one spot to other before boredom sets in.

So I found this piece of wood as I was tidying up and thought I would turn it into some box stock.

It was a bit raggedy but I thought I may be able to get enough timber to make a box.

So as I had jointed it already I simply rolled out my band saw and rule to determine if I could get three slices about 10mm and enough for the base. The timber was 46.8mm thick so I determined I could get 3 x pieces at 14mm and 1 x at 5mm which would give me enough material to make the front back and sides with a base at least.

Here is the stock.

Its Camphor Laurel and has a rough life, tickled with a chain saw by the looks and broken off at the other end

Brown Wood Grey Flooring Beige


Wood Composite material Hardwood Wood stain Rectangle


Brown Table Wood Flooring Rectangle


After measuring it up I set up the saw and began cutting.

Wheel Tire Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive lighting


I wanted to maintain a very accurate cut as I didnt have too much excess to play with so I withdrew it and made the second cut before completing the first, this was done to maintain stability.
Then worked my way through both.

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


The thickest part in the middle will become one side and the base.

I laid out the re saw work to have a look at what I finished up with.

Brown Rectangle Wood Floor Flooring


Then it was simply a matter of ripping suitable widths and then cutting off the rubbish to determine the lengths.

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Plank


I think I have enough to be able to make a small box.

Brown Wood Rectangle Wood stain Plank


With that all done I decided to put a new blade on the bandsaw and finished for the day.

Automotive tire Wood Engineering Wheel Composite material


Stay tuned for the next progress report
Anticipation heightens as the plot thickens. Is that a Timber wolf blade?
-don
 

Attachments

#4 ·
In the begining there was a raggedy piece of wood

I haven't been doing too much today apart from tidying up.
You can only shuffle stuff about from one spot to other before boredom sets in.

So I found this piece of wood as I was tidying up and thought I would turn it into some box stock.

It was a bit raggedy but I thought I may be able to get enough timber to make a box.

So as I had jointed it already I simply rolled out my band saw and rule to determine if I could get three slices about 10mm and enough for the base. The timber was 46.8mm thick so I determined I could get 3 x pieces at 14mm and 1 x at 5mm which would give me enough material to make the front back and sides with a base at least.

Here is the stock.

Its Camphor Laurel and has a rough life, tickled with a chain saw by the looks and broken off at the other end

Brown Wood Grey Flooring Beige


Wood Composite material Hardwood Wood stain Rectangle


Brown Table Wood Flooring Rectangle


After measuring it up I set up the saw and began cutting.

Wheel Tire Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive lighting


I wanted to maintain a very accurate cut as I didnt have too much excess to play with so I withdrew it and made the second cut before completing the first, this was done to maintain stability.
Then worked my way through both.

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


The thickest part in the middle will become one side and the base.

I laid out the re saw work to have a look at what I finished up with.

Brown Rectangle Wood Floor Flooring


Then it was simply a matter of ripping suitable widths and then cutting off the rubbish to determine the lengths.

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Plank


I think I have enough to be able to make a small box.

Brown Wood Rectangle Wood stain Plank


With that all done I decided to put a new blade on the bandsaw and finished for the day.

Automotive tire Wood Engineering Wheel Composite material


Stay tuned for the next progress report
Now that's a bandsaw blade.
 

Attachments

#5 ·
In the begining there was a raggedy piece of wood

I haven't been doing too much today apart from tidying up.
You can only shuffle stuff about from one spot to other before boredom sets in.

So I found this piece of wood as I was tidying up and thought I would turn it into some box stock.

It was a bit raggedy but I thought I may be able to get enough timber to make a box.

So as I had jointed it already I simply rolled out my band saw and rule to determine if I could get three slices about 10mm and enough for the base. The timber was 46.8mm thick so I determined I could get 3 x pieces at 14mm and 1 x at 5mm which would give me enough material to make the front back and sides with a base at least.

Here is the stock.

Its Camphor Laurel and has a rough life, tickled with a chain saw by the looks and broken off at the other end

Brown Wood Grey Flooring Beige


Wood Composite material Hardwood Wood stain Rectangle


Brown Table Wood Flooring Rectangle


After measuring it up I set up the saw and began cutting.

Wheel Tire Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive lighting


I wanted to maintain a very accurate cut as I didnt have too much excess to play with so I withdrew it and made the second cut before completing the first, this was done to maintain stability.
Then worked my way through both.

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


The thickest part in the middle will become one side and the base.

I laid out the re saw work to have a look at what I finished up with.

Brown Rectangle Wood Floor Flooring


Then it was simply a matter of ripping suitable widths and then cutting off the rubbish to determine the lengths.

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Plank


I think I have enough to be able to make a small box.

Brown Wood Rectangle Wood stain Plank


With that all done I decided to put a new blade on the bandsaw and finished for the day.

Automotive tire Wood Engineering Wheel Composite material


Stay tuned for the next progress report
You made me smile. Thanks!
 

Attachments

#6 ·
In the begining there was a raggedy piece of wood

I haven't been doing too much today apart from tidying up.
You can only shuffle stuff about from one spot to other before boredom sets in.

So I found this piece of wood as I was tidying up and thought I would turn it into some box stock.

It was a bit raggedy but I thought I may be able to get enough timber to make a box.

So as I had jointed it already I simply rolled out my band saw and rule to determine if I could get three slices about 10mm and enough for the base. The timber was 46.8mm thick so I determined I could get 3 x pieces at 14mm and 1 x at 5mm which would give me enough material to make the front back and sides with a base at least.

Here is the stock.

Its Camphor Laurel and has a rough life, tickled with a chain saw by the looks and broken off at the other end

Brown Wood Grey Flooring Beige


Wood Composite material Hardwood Wood stain Rectangle


Brown Table Wood Flooring Rectangle


After measuring it up I set up the saw and began cutting.

Wheel Tire Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive lighting


I wanted to maintain a very accurate cut as I didnt have too much excess to play with so I withdrew it and made the second cut before completing the first, this was done to maintain stability.
Then worked my way through both.

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


The thickest part in the middle will become one side and the base.

I laid out the re saw work to have a look at what I finished up with.

Brown Rectangle Wood Floor Flooring


Then it was simply a matter of ripping suitable widths and then cutting off the rubbish to determine the lengths.

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Plank


I think I have enough to be able to make a small box.

Brown Wood Rectangle Wood stain Plank


With that all done I decided to put a new blade on the bandsaw and finished for the day.

Automotive tire Wood Engineering Wheel Composite material


Stay tuned for the next progress report
OK guys its confession time,... The band saw blade is not really mine. its from a series of photographs of Hull-Oaks Sawmill that I was looking at in absolute amazement, well worth a look if you are interested in historical technology.

The timber I used is Camphor Laurel a species originating from China and or Japan.
It was introduced into Australia as a shade tree and in of all places Our Botanical gardens.
It was used for commercial extraction of the camphor oil but stopped in the 1920s

As the tree grew unchecked it spread at such a massive rate it started invading large areas and became a declared pest due to its invasive nature of forcing out native growth around it.

Its a timber suitable for interior only and has a natural pestacide in its camphor oil so many blanket boxes were made from them. The timber had exceptionally attractive grain feature and is now sought after for small projects, and if you can get it timber tops for tables.
 

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#7 ·
The start

I was looking at RogerBean's fantastic boxes, and as a result of some ongoing messages decided to try one myself

The carcass its self is from recycled materials some pallet slats and the lid and base from an old cupboard I bought at a garage sale for $15.

It was block board and all I was going to do with it was break it down, I told the owner at the time and said if it doesn't get sold I would buy it, well he almost insisted I buy it there and then so I did.

I studied Rogers project again and set to work.

Initially I was going to use MDF for the frame but it was so furry I decided against it.

I cut up a length of timber.

Wood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Gas Engineering


I then used my panel door templates to find a suitable profile that would fit into 90mm width

I had to made a jig which would allow me to mark up everything accurately and quickly

Wood Table Flooring Wood stain Composite material


Once marked up it was off to the bandsaw for the initial cut out.

Outdoor bench Wood Bumper Gas Outdoor furniture


I then I glued each section together individually, I did this thinking I would not be able to finish them properly.

Road surface Asphalt Line Cone Road


So I made two more templates to finish each section.

Wood Wood stain Flooring Composite material Hardwood


That ends the start.
 

Attachments

#8 ·
The start

I was looking at RogerBean's fantastic boxes, and as a result of some ongoing messages decided to try one myself

The carcass its self is from recycled materials some pallet slats and the lid and base from an old cupboard I bought at a garage sale for $15.

It was block board and all I was going to do with it was break it down, I told the owner at the time and said if it doesn't get sold I would buy it, well he almost insisted I buy it there and then so I did.

I studied Rogers project again and set to work.

Initially I was going to use MDF for the frame but it was so furry I decided against it.

I cut up a length of timber.

Wood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Gas Engineering


I then used my panel door templates to find a suitable profile that would fit into 90mm width

I had to made a jig which would allow me to mark up everything accurately and quickly

Wood Table Flooring Wood stain Composite material


Once marked up it was off to the bandsaw for the initial cut out.

Outdoor bench Wood Bumper Gas Outdoor furniture


I then I glued each section together individually, I did this thinking I would not be able to finish them properly.

Road surface Asphalt Line Cone Road


So I made two more templates to finish each section.

Wood Wood stain Flooring Composite material Hardwood


That ends the start.
This is gonna be good. Watching this.
 

Attachments

#12 ·
Dimensions and jigs

I am jumping ahead here a few steps and provided the dimensions so an appreciation of the size can be achieved.

The original timber stock dimensions were W 400mm D 200mm x H 180mm

These were reduced for the following reasons.

1. I found that the wood veneer I wanted to use was not big enough to complete the work. Critical aspect.
2. I had quite a few problems maintaining a accurate datum point as I finished the three individual curved sections.
3. Natural reduction as the timber was jointed and trued and some defects removed
4. Finally I wanted to cut the box open using my bandsaw 175mm cutting height. Second critical aspect.

Here are some shots of the raw box showing the Dimensions, general arrangement and raised panel templates used.

Wood Hardwood Wood stain Plywood Tints and shades


The overall parts of the box

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Wood stain Natural material


The back dimensions 360Ă—160mm.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Rectangle Composite material


The side dimensions 210mm x 160mm .

Wood Office ruler Ruler Rectangle Wood stain


The top front to the curve dimensions 360mm x 297mm.

Ruler Tape measure Office ruler Tool Wood


Don't be too concerned about the dings, other damage, imperfections and knot holes as the will be filled and veneered over.

Next blog will go back in time to the production of the front and assembly.
 

Attachments

#13 ·
Dimensions and jigs

I am jumping ahead here a few steps and provided the dimensions so an appreciation of the size can be achieved.

The original timber stock dimensions were W 400mm D 200mm x H 180mm

These were reduced for the following reasons.

1. I found that the wood veneer I wanted to use was not big enough to complete the work. Critical aspect.
2. I had quite a few problems maintaining a accurate datum point as I finished the three individual curved sections.
3. Natural reduction as the timber was jointed and trued and some defects removed
4. Finally I wanted to cut the box open using my bandsaw 175mm cutting height. Second critical aspect.

Here are some shots of the raw box showing the Dimensions, general arrangement and raised panel templates used.

Wood Hardwood Wood stain Plywood Tints and shades


The overall parts of the box

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Wood stain Natural material


The back dimensions 360Ă—160mm.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Rectangle Composite material


The side dimensions 210mm x 160mm .

Wood Office ruler Ruler Rectangle Wood stain


The top front to the curve dimensions 360mm x 297mm.

Ruler Tape measure Office ruler Tool Wood


Don't be too concerned about the dings, other damage, imperfections and knot holes as the will be filled and veneered over.

Next blog will go back in time to the production of the front and assembly.
Those are looking way kool
 

Attachments

#16 ·
preparing the front dry assembly and glue up

In this part I fabricate the front sides top and bottom do a dry fit up and then glue it all together

Fabrication of the front

I did quite a bit of brain squirming trying to figure how I could profile the three laminated parts so they were all the same.

Essentially I gave up and glued the three together into a laminated one piece front.

I lay the parts out on my table saw top so I had a flat surface to work on.
I used the two long ends as datum lines to get everything on one plane and as flat as possible and glued and clamped it.

After letting it dry overnight I then used my Oscillating sander to finish the profile.
As I still had pencil lines from the templates I simply just sanded it down to the lines, inverted it and did the other half.

Now I know its possibly not perfectly symmetrical but its as close as I could get it.

Here is a shot of it dry assembled.
Note: The long wings at the ends have not been cut off yet

Furniture Rectangle Wood Table Plank


Fabrication of the sides and back

The fabrication of the sides and back presented no problems, Joint them, thickness them cut them to length, match them up, biscuit joint them together then them dry and then trim them down to size.

I staggered the sides and the back to keep the joints separated.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Flooring Hardwood


Fabrication of the top and base or bottom.

As I said at the beginning I used block board for the lid and bottom.
It was originally 19 mm so I ran it through the thicknesser to get it down to about 15 mm .

Using the raised panel template again I cut out the profile for the top aand bottom.

The lid or top is a flush butt joint.
The bottom or base is a tongue and groove fit.

Rectangle Wood Table Outdoor furniture Hardwood


The bottom actually a raised panel upside down, I cut a reverse panel profile on the edges and then matching slots in the front sides and back.

It took a bit of fiddling at sanding to get it to fit in and satisfy the clearances for movement.

I dry fitted everything together and it all looked good, it matched up OK so it was glue up time.

Wood Hardwood Plywood Automotive exterior Desk


Wood Tire Automotive exterior Hardwood Gas


A lesson was learned here….do not throw off cuts in the bin as you may possibly need them to assist in clamping!

As luck would have it the rubbish PU did not occur early, god knows what the neighbours thought seeing me searching through the bin and pulling out small curved bits of wood!!
 

Attachments

#17 ·
preparing the front dry assembly and glue up

In this part I fabricate the front sides top and bottom do a dry fit up and then glue it all together

Fabrication of the front

I did quite a bit of brain squirming trying to figure how I could profile the three laminated parts so they were all the same.

Essentially I gave up and glued the three together into a laminated one piece front.

I lay the parts out on my table saw top so I had a flat surface to work on.
I used the two long ends as datum lines to get everything on one plane and as flat as possible and glued and clamped it.

After letting it dry overnight I then used my Oscillating sander to finish the profile.
As I still had pencil lines from the templates I simply just sanded it down to the lines, inverted it and did the other half.

Now I know its possibly not perfectly symmetrical but its as close as I could get it.

Here is a shot of it dry assembled.
Note: The long wings at the ends have not been cut off yet

Furniture Rectangle Wood Table Plank


Fabrication of the sides and back

The fabrication of the sides and back presented no problems, Joint them, thickness them cut them to length, match them up, biscuit joint them together then them dry and then trim them down to size.

I staggered the sides and the back to keep the joints separated.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Flooring Hardwood


Fabrication of the top and base or bottom.

As I said at the beginning I used block board for the lid and bottom.
It was originally 19 mm so I ran it through the thicknesser to get it down to about 15 mm .

Using the raised panel template again I cut out the profile for the top aand bottom.

The lid or top is a flush butt joint.
The bottom or base is a tongue and groove fit.

Rectangle Wood Table Outdoor furniture Hardwood


The bottom actually a raised panel upside down, I cut a reverse panel profile on the edges and then matching slots in the front sides and back.

It took a bit of fiddling at sanding to get it to fit in and satisfy the clearances for movement.

I dry fitted everything together and it all looked good, it matched up OK so it was glue up time.

Wood Hardwood Plywood Automotive exterior Desk


Wood Tire Automotive exterior Hardwood Gas


A lesson was learned here….do not throw off cuts in the bin as you may possibly need them to assist in clamping!

As luck would have it the rubbish PU did not occur early, god knows what the neighbours thought seeing me searching through the bin and pulling out small curved bits of wood!!
Rob, That is coming together really well.
I can just see you bum up in the bin. LOL. Been there.
Cant wait to see it finished.
 

Attachments

#22 ·
Cutting the box open

Well so much for wanting to cut the box open with my bandsaw.

I realised the sides were too big and the curved face blew it out to 297mm.

So it was onto the table saw. there goes Critical priority no 2

I fitted the thinnest kerf blade I had and away I went.

Cutting a box open using various planes is usually a candidate for a mess, let alone making a series of cuts as I raised the blade, but I managed to get it started and finished at the same point miracles do occur!

Wood Plant Table Wood stain Rectangle


Wood Flooring Rectangle Floor Wood stain


Wood Rectangle Floor Wood stain Fixture


Next its onto the veneering procedure.
 

Attachments

#23 ·
Cutting the box open

Well so much for wanting to cut the box open with my bandsaw.

I realised the sides were too big and the curved face blew it out to 297mm.

So it was onto the table saw. there goes Critical priority no 2

I fitted the thinnest kerf blade I had and away I went.

Cutting a box open using various planes is usually a candidate for a mess, let alone making a series of cuts as I raised the blade, but I managed to get it started and finished at the same point miracles do occur!

Wood Plant Table Wood stain Rectangle


Wood Flooring Rectangle Floor Wood stain


Wood Rectangle Floor Wood stain Fixture


Next its onto the veneering procedure.
Beautiful piece of work mate! What is the wood? Without veneer, just stain and finish it'd be gorgeous to me. What lid fastener will you use if any? Thanks for the view.
 

Attachments

#28 ·
Veneer work stalled SOS need help

I have two pieces of Tasmanian Blackwood veneer available to use on the Curved front Box

Wood Rectangle Natural material Wood stain Hardwood


Wood Road surface Flooring Floor Hardwood


The problem is guess I do not know how to go about it,

I don't want to waste the veneer by cutting it up incorrectly but in the same I don't fully understand how to select a suitable piece.

Does it start from the front wrap around the left and right sides and meet at the back as a join?
Next what determines the aspect for the top of the Lid?

You obviously don't "just slap it on!" without some consideration to grain flow.

I can only assume it commences at the most attractive face and flows away?
Meaning you would select a balanced front image and then have it disappearing or vanishing to the back.

I mulled over whether or not you use both pieces, but again it all became too hard and I decided to have a beer and think about it.

Wishing I would hopefully get an inspiration so I had a beer but no inspiration appeared, I did however feel a bit more relaxed.

But still no magical answer.

To hell with it I thought and will wait for another day, then I had a sudden thought maybe, just maybe there is a LJ with the answer to it or a possible solution that they may like to provide me with?

Any thoughts?

Meanwhile I thought that I would commence flattening the veneer ready for use, but even that is on hold due to not knowing which sections to use

I don't often get stuck but it looks like history has been made and I need to ask for help.

Facts:
The veneer I have available is Tasmanian Blackwood, its in 2 x sheets/strips 2.4m x 200mm x (I assume 0.6mm) so there is plenty of it but there are the typical splits extending up to 200mm from each end.
 

Attachments

#29 ·
Veneer work stalled SOS need help

I have two pieces of Tasmanian Blackwood veneer available to use on the Curved front Box

Wood Rectangle Natural material Wood stain Hardwood


Wood Road surface Flooring Floor Hardwood


The problem is guess I do not know how to go about it,

I don't want to waste the veneer by cutting it up incorrectly but in the same I don't fully understand how to select a suitable piece.

Does it start from the front wrap around the left and right sides and meet at the back as a join?
Next what determines the aspect for the top of the Lid?

You obviously don't "just slap it on!" without some consideration to grain flow.

I can only assume it commences at the most attractive face and flows away?
Meaning you would select a balanced front image and then have it disappearing or vanishing to the back.

I mulled over whether or not you use both pieces, but again it all became too hard and I decided to have a beer and think about it.

Wishing I would hopefully get an inspiration so I had a beer but no inspiration appeared, I did however feel a bit more relaxed.

But still no magical answer.

To hell with it I thought and will wait for another day, then I had a sudden thought maybe, just maybe there is a LJ with the answer to it or a possible solution that they may like to provide me with?

Any thoughts?

Meanwhile I thought that I would commence flattening the veneer ready for use, but even that is on hold due to not knowing which sections to use

I don't often get stuck but it looks like history has been made and I need to ask for help.

Facts:
The veneer I have available is Tasmanian Blackwood, its in 2 x sheets/strips 2.4m x 200mm x (I assume 0.6mm) so there is plenty of it but there are the typical splits extending up to 200mm from each end.
Rob, I have never done veneer work but for my 2 bobs worth I would start with the wavy section, just up from the bottom of the photos and use that for the front. IMHO. that is best part. Then I would use the lowest piece for the left side of the box and continue wrapping around the right side and rear I would make the join on the L/H rear corner.
Like I said, IMHO.

Best of luck,
Bob. PS, I would have had a couple of beers.
 

Attachments

#35 ·
Veneer work recommences

Well after my brain methane discharge I spent the rest of the evening and early morning considering my options.

First up I must thank all those who provided all the feedback.

You would not think a simple task could stump you completely.

Thank You all.

So with renewed vigour and confidence bright and early I made some cardboard templates to get the veneer dilemma on a roll.

Out with the squares and measured off two strips using some craft cardboard I use as lining backs.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor Hardwood


Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor Hardwood


Then set to ensuring I had enough overlap and set to marking out the sections I wanted to use

Rectangle Wood Material property Handwriting Font


They are a bit hard to see but I have matched the templates up as accurately as possible
the left or right rear edge will be reproduced across the two swatches.

The lid top being so big will have to be joined at the back edge to maintain the effect

The chalk shows the approximate cut lines with the furthest right hand edge of both "bookmatched" to flow from one sheet to the other, or that's my intention.

Rectangle Wood Handwriting Material property Font


Veneering Pressing

I cut the sections ready to go into the veneer press.

After dusting it off I then added the veneer sections firstly spraying them with a secret formula to soften them and added paper towel in between each piece.

Put the top on added the washers spacers and nuts and clamped them up

A bit like tensioning a cylinder head tightening them up at opposing threads and the with a spanner give them all a final tweak, its simply a matter of applying even pressure with your hand as the torque wrench, you would be surprised how consistent and accurate it is.

But to make sure a check on the sides will reveal any abnormal bowing.

Automotive tire Automotive lighting Asphalt Road surface Gas


Handwriting Font Writing Concrete Paper

And final you may notice a red line? well when I made the press I used a speed brace to do up the nuts and although its 30mm laminated particle board, A recycled kitchen bench off cut I manage to produce a stress crack.

Hence the reminder instructions
Serveware Gas Wood Dishware Cup


The tightening up sequence for those who forget !!

Wood Gas Road surface Audio equipment Font


The accessories kit:

Veneer softener, don't buy this stuff already prepared it costs a bomb for some reason, $28 for 500mL

The secret formula H2O and Glycerine 90 % water 10 % glycerine.

A bottle from the chemist 100ml and then just hit your closest water tap

Maybe the pump bottle is expensive to make.
 

Attachments

#36 ·
Veneer work recommences

Well after my brain methane discharge I spent the rest of the evening and early morning considering my options.

First up I must thank all those who provided all the feedback.

You would not think a simple task could stump you completely.

Thank You all.

So with renewed vigour and confidence bright and early I made some cardboard templates to get the veneer dilemma on a roll.

Out with the squares and measured off two strips using some craft cardboard I use as lining backs.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor Hardwood


Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor Hardwood


Then set to ensuring I had enough overlap and set to marking out the sections I wanted to use

Rectangle Wood Material property Handwriting Font


They are a bit hard to see but I have matched the templates up as accurately as possible
the left or right rear edge will be reproduced across the two swatches.

The lid top being so big will have to be joined at the back edge to maintain the effect

The chalk shows the approximate cut lines with the furthest right hand edge of both "bookmatched" to flow from one sheet to the other, or that's my intention.

Rectangle Wood Handwriting Material property Font


Veneering Pressing

I cut the sections ready to go into the veneer press.

After dusting it off I then added the veneer sections firstly spraying them with a secret formula to soften them and added paper towel in between each piece.

Put the top on added the washers spacers and nuts and clamped them up

A bit like tensioning a cylinder head tightening them up at opposing threads and the with a spanner give them all a final tweak, its simply a matter of applying even pressure with your hand as the torque wrench, you would be surprised how consistent and accurate it is.

But to make sure a check on the sides will reveal any abnormal bowing.

Automotive tire Automotive lighting Asphalt Road surface Gas


Handwriting Font Writing Concrete Paper

And final you may notice a red line? well when I made the press I used a speed brace to do up the nuts and although its 30mm laminated particle board, A recycled kitchen bench off cut I manage to produce a stress crack.

Hence the reminder instructions
Serveware Gas Wood Dishware Cup


The tightening up sequence for those who forget !!

Wood Gas Road surface Audio equipment Font


The accessories kit:

Veneer softener, don't buy this stuff already prepared it costs a bomb for some reason, $28 for 500mL

The secret formula H2O and Glycerine 90 % water 10 % glycerine.

A bottle from the chemist 100ml and then just hit your closest water tap

Maybe the pump bottle is expensive to make.
It gets more exciting by the day. Can't wait to see the end result.

Cheers, Bob.
 

Attachments

#38 ·
Veneer run No 1

Some interesting progress was made today, the front caul and veneer trim Jig have been made.

The front caul tested and produced some good results.

The Veneer Caul.

I made it from the off cuts plus two more to get the depth required.
gave it a dry fit up and everything looked OK.
Table Wood Wood stain Floor Flooring


Here is a view of the reversed panel base I used.
Wood Rectangle Handwriting Wood stain Wooden block


I found a couple of veneer pieces for the base material which would fit nicely so on they went.

Wood Wood stain Handwriting Rectangle Hardwood


The top of the lid I did inside the garage

Wood Automotive tire Floor Flooring Asphalt


The lower front of the base in progress.

Plant Wood Rectangle Wood stain Handwriting


Wood Shelf Hardwood Publication Wood stain


Then it was onto the front of the lid.

Wood Hardwood Composite material Triangle Automotive exterior


The finished result.

Wood Rectangle Table Flooring Wood stain


Rectangle Wood Natural material Hardwood Table


Rectangle Wood Table Hardwood Plank


The gap at the bottom was intentional as the trim will go in here.

Hopefully the flattening will be finished tomorrow and its time to do it all over again using the finishing veneer.

The Veneer trim jig will get a test run next

A closing P.S. I messaged Roger Bean and he replied with a very in depth report on my progress.

One of the most important observations made was that I had used real wood which is a candidate for twisting warping and all sorts of future possible problems.

So a lesson learned, use ply MDF or any other composite material for this type of project.
 

Attachments

#39 ·
Veneer run No 1

Some interesting progress was made today, the front caul and veneer trim Jig have been made.

The front caul tested and produced some good results.

The Veneer Caul.

I made it from the off cuts plus two more to get the depth required.
gave it a dry fit up and everything looked OK.
Table Wood Wood stain Floor Flooring


Here is a view of the reversed panel base I used.
Wood Rectangle Handwriting Wood stain Wooden block


I found a couple of veneer pieces for the base material which would fit nicely so on they went.

Wood Wood stain Handwriting Rectangle Hardwood


The top of the lid I did inside the garage

Wood Automotive tire Floor Flooring Asphalt


The lower front of the base in progress.

Plant Wood Rectangle Wood stain Handwriting


Wood Shelf Hardwood Publication Wood stain


Then it was onto the front of the lid.

Wood Hardwood Composite material Triangle Automotive exterior


The finished result.

Wood Rectangle Table Flooring Wood stain


Rectangle Wood Natural material Hardwood Table


Rectangle Wood Table Hardwood Plank


The gap at the bottom was intentional as the trim will go in here.

Hopefully the flattening will be finished tomorrow and its time to do it all over again using the finishing veneer.

The Veneer trim jig will get a test run next

A closing P.S. I messaged Roger Bean and he replied with a very in depth report on my progress.

One of the most important observations made was that I had used real wood which is a candidate for twisting warping and all sorts of future possible problems.

So a lesson learned, use ply MDF or any other composite material for this type of project.
It looks great so far Robert. I'm not disputing Roger's advice, but remember that before MDF and other composite materials were developed only solid woods were used as substrates and there are thousands upon thousands of veneered pieces hundreds of years old that still look great, so it is not a given that you will encounter problems.
 

Attachments

#45 ·
Veneer Flattening Process

I have a couple of methods available to flatten veneer.
One is a hydraulic ram from a Auto Body repair kit,
the other is my purpose made mechanical screw Veneer press.

The Ram works on the material set up on the concrete floor of the garage and uses the floor bearer above.

Wood Automotive tire Floor Flooring Asphalt


The mechanical press is simply a couple of laminated Particle board kitchen bench off cuts about 400mm x 400mm with twelve bolts around the outside.

Wood Gas Road surface Audio equipment Font


I had all the veneer for the box in the mechanical clamp overnight to soften and flatten it.

This morning I opened it up to check on the progress.

Well it was not ready but I noticed my chalk marking had disappeared so I had to take everything out to remark.

Well I found a couple of surprises when I laid everything out.

1 There was about 12mm of width expansion and,
2 The features of the veneer were much more enhanced with the addition some moisture.

Here is a shot of the set with the adjoining strips together to verify the alignment.

I remarked them all again in the waste areas with a black marker.

Brown Wood Flooring Wood stain Rectangle


Here is a shot again of them all together and the templates sitting next to each piece.

Brown Wood Wood stain Hardwood Rectangle


Then the amount of expansion.

That's quite a lot, about 12 mm in 200 mm

Brown Wood Rectangle Wood stain Flooring


Ruler Rectangle Wood Office ruler Font


It will be interesting to see how much shrinkage occurs when it normalises again.
 

Attachments

#46 ·
Veneer Flattening Process

I have a couple of methods available to flatten veneer.
One is a hydraulic ram from a Auto Body repair kit,
the other is my purpose made mechanical screw Veneer press.

The Ram works on the material set up on the concrete floor of the garage and uses the floor bearer above.

Wood Automotive tire Floor Flooring Asphalt


The mechanical press is simply a couple of laminated Particle board kitchen bench off cuts about 400mm x 400mm with twelve bolts around the outside.

Wood Gas Road surface Audio equipment Font


I had all the veneer for the box in the mechanical clamp overnight to soften and flatten it.

This morning I opened it up to check on the progress.

Well it was not ready but I noticed my chalk marking had disappeared so I had to take everything out to remark.

Well I found a couple of surprises when I laid everything out.

1 There was about 12mm of width expansion and,
2 The features of the veneer were much more enhanced with the addition some moisture.

Here is a shot of the set with the adjoining strips together to verify the alignment.

I remarked them all again in the waste areas with a black marker.

Brown Wood Flooring Wood stain Rectangle


Here is a shot again of them all together and the templates sitting next to each piece.

Brown Wood Wood stain Hardwood Rectangle


Then the amount of expansion.

That's quite a lot, about 12 mm in 200 mm

Brown Wood Rectangle Wood stain Flooring


Ruler Rectangle Wood Office ruler Font


It will be interesting to see how much shrinkage occurs when it normalises again.
It should come pretty much right back Rob. Unless the glycerin prevents it in some way. I only use water and heated cauls to flatten so I can't say for sure.
I had a real adventure with this kind of movement on my "Facets" project. It is documented here.
Yours isn't marquetry so shape isn't as big a thing. You should be good as long as it dries to ambient humidity.
 

Attachments

#49 ·
The second veneer run and trim work commences

I had a couple of days consumed while the veneer was softened and flattened.
Then I was busy again applying the finishing veneer layer to the outside.



Lots of selecting of matching grain gluing clamping trimming and the repeating the process for each section.



Once all that was all done I then began producing the trim I cut the profile sections on the band saw and then dimensioned them in the drum sander.

I then set up the shaper to route the trim rabbet.

After a couple of test runs I was confident the setting was what I needed.

So I routed the jig to confirm all was OK



I added some sections of the trim and taped it on temporarily to re confirm all was OK



Then it was onto the actual box



The 90 deg surfaces were done with a fence and the curved profile the fence was removed and it was done free hand.

I had some tear out in two sections for some reason.
It was a bit disappointing to have that happen, see a very large section on the front top, but nothing I could do with it at the moment.

No doubt it had something to do with end grain but did not repeat as badly on the same section of the lid.

Nothing some wood filler cannot rectify later.



I did a temporary fit up of the curved trim to see just how much profile work I have to do tomorrow



I also noticed some other minor chipping again, which will have to be corrected later.





Overall a very nervous day was put in and mixed results obtained,

I was particularly concerned about routing the curved front but as it turned out the chip out and minor splinter was more of a concern.

Tomorrow its on with the trim and determine some fixes for the damage.

Its slowly getting there, I think the main fabrication work is complete and its now detail finishing time
 

Attachments

#50 ·
The second veneer run and trim work commences

I had a couple of days consumed while the veneer was softened and flattened.
Then I was busy again applying the finishing veneer layer to the outside.

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Wood stain Gas


Lots of selecting of matching grain gluing clamping trimming and the repeating the process for each section.

Wood Rectangle Plant Wood stain Hardwood


Once all that was all done I then began producing the trim I cut the profile sections on the band saw and then dimensioned them in the drum sander.

I then set up the shaper to route the trim rabbet.

After a couple of test runs I was confident the setting was what I needed.

So I routed the jig to confirm all was OK

Table Wood Flooring Rectangle Wood stain


I added some sections of the trim and taped it on temporarily to re confirm all was OK

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Natural material


Then it was onto the actual box

Wood Rectangle Outdoor furniture Hardwood Table


The 90 deg surfaces were done with a fence and the curved profile the fence was removed and it was done free hand.

I had some tear out in two sections for some reason.
It was a bit disappointing to have that happen, see a very large section on the front top, but nothing I could do with it at the moment.

No doubt it had something to do with end grain but did not repeat as badly on the same section of the lid.

Nothing some wood filler cannot rectify later.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Table Plank


I did a temporary fit up of the curved trim to see just how much profile work I have to do tomorrow

Wood Natural material Hardwood Wood stain Rectangle


I also noticed some other minor chipping again, which will have to be corrected later.

Wood Rectangle Outdoor furniture Hardwood Table


Wood Table Flooring Wood stain Hardwood


Overall a very nervous day was put in and mixed results obtained,

I was particularly concerned about routing the curved front but as it turned out the chip out and minor splinter was more of a concern.

Tomorrow its on with the trim and determine some fixes for the damage.

Its slowly getting there, I think the main fabrication work is complete and its now detail finishing time
Damage can usually be fixed, so don't get discouraged. The box is coming along very well. You might also consider fixing with veneer instead of filler. It isn't so difficult to cut a piece for insert, outline on the surface, cut out the damaged piece and glue in the replacement piece. Just a thought.
 

Attachments

#52 ·
Front Alternative method

Well now here is some good news, I thought so anyway !
Background.
Kiefer posted a banana stand he made for is daughter, a great job too! and to add to the skills a blog was added as to how he made the curve shape, take a look because there is information there I used but did not repeat here.

So what's all the excitement? well I read the blog then the project this morning and realised I had gone to a lot of effort and time to make the curved front I used.

So appreciating the concept I cast all the other work aside for a while and I set up a sled and used a piece of scrap wood to prove if the concept would work for me.

Or simply put "I have gotta try that straight away"!!

The Sled is fairly basic just some MDF and a miter gauge mounted in reverse on the table saw.

Well not including the set up time and not having any accurate marking out ( I had to resaw every second cut!) I had a workable solution within about 30 minutes.

Here is the method I would seriously consider if I ever made a curved front box again.

This is the test piece being cut, and due to being a prototype it was re cut. (hence the block under the end)

Wood Natural material Wood stain Hardwood Lumber


I used similar index marks as those by Kiefer, although mine were originally too wide for my application, as I was not able to do the inclined reverse cuts due to my design.

Brown Wood Tints and shades Gas Fixture


I used the same 10 degrees as Kiefer.

Font Gauge Gas Crankset Audio equipment


From the time it come off the saw it looked like a very promising test, (although Rough as) so into the existing Jig/Caul it went.

Now when you look at this take into consideration it was only a concept test not an actual working piece.

So ignoring the jig/Caul will need modification or redesign to fully suit, the accuracy of the cuts will have to be refined and the use of specific jointed and dressed timber used along with two pieces of finishing veneer it would work and with less process and effort from that of my original labour intensive activity.

Plant Wood Automotive exterior Grass Tints and shades


Amazing what you can learn from other LJs !! I am impressed and most appreciative of Kiefer unintentional mentoring and guidance.

Thank you.
 

Attachments

#53 ·
Front Alternative method

Well now here is some good news, I thought so anyway !
Background.
Kiefer posted a banana stand he made for is daughter, a great job too! and to add to the skills a blog was added as to how he made the curve shape, take a look because there is information there I used but did not repeat here.

So what's all the excitement? well I read the blog then the project this morning and realised I had gone to a lot of effort and time to make the curved front I used.

So appreciating the concept I cast all the other work aside for a while and I set up a sled and used a piece of scrap wood to prove if the concept would work for me.

Or simply put "I have gotta try that straight away"!!

The Sled is fairly basic just some MDF and a miter gauge mounted in reverse on the table saw.

Well not including the set up time and not having any accurate marking out ( I had to resaw every second cut!) I had a workable solution within about 30 minutes.

Here is the method I would seriously consider if I ever made a curved front box again.

This is the test piece being cut, and due to being a prototype it was re cut. (hence the block under the end)

Wood Natural material Wood stain Hardwood Lumber


I used similar index marks as those by Kiefer, although mine were originally too wide for my application, as I was not able to do the inclined reverse cuts due to my design.

Brown Wood Tints and shades Gas Fixture


I used the same 10 degrees as Kiefer.

Font Gauge Gas Crankset Audio equipment


From the time it come off the saw it looked like a very promising test, (although Rough as) so into the existing Jig/Caul it went.

Now when you look at this take into consideration it was only a concept test not an actual working piece.

So ignoring the jig/Caul will need modification or redesign to fully suit, the accuracy of the cuts will have to be refined and the use of specific jointed and dressed timber used along with two pieces of finishing veneer it would work and with less process and effort from that of my original labour intensive activity.

Plant Wood Automotive exterior Grass Tints and shades


Amazing what you can learn from other LJs !! I am impressed and most appreciative of Kiefer unintentional mentoring and guidance.

Thank you.
Robert
For you application I would make straight cuts and use a indexing deice to get even spacing .
Wetting the thin part of the board will also help it from breaking in the jig .
These reason I used angled cuts is for decoration only .
 

Attachments

#66 ·
The Trim work Commences

The trim work has commenced in ernest, after my rabbeting disaster I kinda lost interest for a while and went and did something different for a while, see the rambling's on the bottom of #11

Anyway I an back into it today, out with the Oscillating Sander Bandsaw and the Disk sander as well

First up it was selecting the most suitable trim for the front top and bottom of the curved front, fitted them up and the sanded to suit the profile.

Once I had that done I the needed an accurate way to miter and trim the rough sawn curved sections, so I made up a jig to do all the bevels without having to adjust then re set everything again over and over.

Because the trim meets at three points double bevels were required.

With a final sand it was time to incrementally tape everything together to confirm it would all fit together correctly.

With that confirmed I left the tape in place and commenced individually gluing each part in by lifting the tape applying glue and then retaping and adding a clamp or two.

Well it all fitted together and I was going well when I discovered I had run out of usable clamps, so I only completed the base.

The top/lid will be a revisit of the above procedure but as I had no more clamps it will be done later.

I will not bother to blog it as its possibly just a repeat.

Here are all the progress photos of the base only.

General Arrangement.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Natural material


The jig fabricated for the job.

Wood Motor vehicle Vehicle Lumber Metal


Wood Gas Motor vehicle Engineering Metal


The fit and tape up

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish Table


The three intersecting points.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plywood Varnish


The annoying chip out bits.

Brown Rectangle Wood Flooring Floor


The glue up in progress.

Toy Wood Tool Automotive design Lego


The final Clamp up!
Did I mention I ran out of suitable clamps!

Wood Tool Gas Composite material Machine


Motor vehicle Gas Automotive exterior Machine Engineering
 

Attachments

#67 ·
The Trim work Commences

The trim work has commenced in ernest, after my rabbeting disaster I kinda lost interest for a while and went and did something different for a while, see the rambling's on the bottom of #11

Anyway I an back into it today, out with the Oscillating Sander Bandsaw and the Disk sander as well

First up it was selecting the most suitable trim for the front top and bottom of the curved front, fitted them up and the sanded to suit the profile.

Once I had that done I the needed an accurate way to miter and trim the rough sawn curved sections, so I made up a jig to do all the bevels without having to adjust then re set everything again over and over.

Because the trim meets at three points double bevels were required.

With a final sand it was time to incrementally tape everything together to confirm it would all fit together correctly.

With that confirmed I left the tape in place and commenced individually gluing each part in by lifting the tape applying glue and then retaping and adding a clamp or two.

Well it all fitted together and I was going well when I discovered I had run out of usable clamps, so I only completed the base.

The top/lid will be a revisit of the above procedure but as I had no more clamps it will be done later.

I will not bother to blog it as its possibly just a repeat.

Here are all the progress photos of the base only.

General Arrangement.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Natural material


The jig fabricated for the job.

Wood Motor vehicle Vehicle Lumber Metal


Wood Gas Motor vehicle Engineering Metal


The fit and tape up

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish Table


The three intersecting points.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plywood Varnish


The annoying chip out bits.

Brown Rectangle Wood Flooring Floor


The glue up in progress.

Toy Wood Tool Automotive design Lego


The final Clamp up!
Did I mention I ran out of suitable clamps!

Wood Tool Gas Composite material Machine


Motor vehicle Gas Automotive exterior Machine Engineering
You're getting there Robert. Really too bad about the chip outs but they can be repaired and you have learned something to avoid next time.

Cheers!
 

Attachments

#71 ·
The trim drives me nuts or more frustrating errors

I completed the trim so today start to finish the edges today.

I had no end of problems,
1. The box is really too big for any of my equipment.
a. My Router bits are not really geared o the size as well but saved my bacon !!
b My ability to sand something that big, specifically the box body the lid not so bad.

All this work I created no end of ongoing errors,

More veneer tear out, and in the same area so its definitely a glue up problem give myself an uppercut!
Trying to remove any PVA based glue is an absolute nightmare, Oh woo is me!

Now I know why HHG is used for veneer.

Anyway with that said here is todays results warts and all!

Trimming the front curved surface, even that was a problem as I realised I needed to route in both directions from the center due to the grain direction

So away I went in one direction.

Table Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish


Then because I cannot reverse my shaper, I stop, swap out bits reverse the work piece and go again.

Wood Hardwood Rectangle Wood stain Flooring


Eventually the curved fronts are done, and they look OK!

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plywood Composite material


Then onto the sides and back , and what should be almost straightforward, up comes some more veneer !!!
and a trim decides to tear out, again possibly me going against the grain again. Something I didn't even consider.

Wood Shelf Rectangle Table Flooring


Cannot do anything about it just yet so I just leave it

Commence sanding starting at 180 Grit, that was at least enjoyable (if there is such a thing in the sanding world

I did my tests Jig and then applied a coat of tung oil to check what it may look like

Wood Wood stain Flooring Hardwood Rectangle


This little project is really starting to disturb my bowels, so I had to take some time out again and this time make some dunny roll holders, for a friend.

Wood Musical instrument Tool Natural material Art


I will keep going, maybe later !! but it will get finished, !!

Lesson learned:
1. When adding trim ensure the grain direction is all one way. ( Or don't even think of going near a router!
2. Go buy some HHG equipment or stop doing veneer work. so you can get the stuff off completely instead of having to use a patching method. Credits Stefang!
3. Don't build things bigger than your finishing equipment.
 

Attachments

#72 ·
The trim drives me nuts or more frustrating errors

I completed the trim so today start to finish the edges today.

I had no end of problems,
1. The box is really too big for any of my equipment.
a. My Router bits are not really geared o the size as well but saved my bacon !!
b My ability to sand something that big, specifically the box body the lid not so bad.

All this work I created no end of ongoing errors,

More veneer tear out, and in the same area so its definitely a glue up problem give myself an uppercut!
Trying to remove any PVA based glue is an absolute nightmare, Oh woo is me!

Now I know why HHG is used for veneer.

Anyway with that said here is todays results warts and all!

Trimming the front curved surface, even that was a problem as I realised I needed to route in both directions from the center due to the grain direction

So away I went in one direction.

Table Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish


Then because I cannot reverse my shaper, I stop, swap out bits reverse the work piece and go again.

Wood Hardwood Rectangle Wood stain Flooring


Eventually the curved fronts are done, and they look OK!

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plywood Composite material


Then onto the sides and back , and what should be almost straightforward, up comes some more veneer !!!
and a trim decides to tear out, again possibly me going against the grain again. Something I didn't even consider.

Wood Shelf Rectangle Table Flooring


Cannot do anything about it just yet so I just leave it

Commence sanding starting at 180 Grit, that was at least enjoyable (if there is such a thing in the sanding world

I did my tests Jig and then applied a coat of tung oil to check what it may look like

Wood Wood stain Flooring Hardwood Rectangle


This little project is really starting to disturb my bowels, so I had to take some time out again and this time make some dunny roll holders, for a friend.

Wood Musical instrument Tool Natural material Art


I will keep going, maybe later !! but it will get finished, !!

Lesson learned:
1. When adding trim ensure the grain direction is all one way. ( Or don't even think of going near a router!
2. Go buy some HHG equipment or stop doing veneer work. so you can get the stuff off completely instead of having to use a patching method. Credits Stefang!
3. Don't build things bigger than your finishing equipment.
Part of your veneer problem may be the result of inadequate pressing. One nice thing about HHG is that you can hammer veneer and not worry about clamping pressure.
At least you are learning, but I'll bet you get a pretty nice box at the end of all this as well.
 

Attachments

#74 ·
Starting the internal trays

Today I started the design and build up of the internal trays.

The overall concept is two trays the lower the deepest with central dividers to allow easy removal.

After doing some sketches and trying to determine a practical solution it was back to cutting curved profiles for the fronts.

I wanted to avoid this process and use kerf sawn curved sections, but my inexperience in doing timber 10 to 12mm sections saw me returning to cutting the fronts on the bandsaw.

I wanted to avoid having to veneer the trays but did not have enough stock to use NG Rosewood all round.

So it will be more veneering of the front and top of the trays at least.

I also was wanting to step back from veneering mainly due to the tearout I was experiencing.

The reason for this is not that it will not happen again but the apparent inability to be able to buy Hot Hide Glue and its associated accessories in Brisbane.

It seems that you can buy the Glue no worries but the brushes glue pot and other components are not available any where.

So my thoughts were to avoid veneering until I can repair any damage reasonably easly rather than have to resort to chiselling out Titebond glue, the glue is great don't get me wrong, but not if rework is required like veneer chip out.

Anyway back to the tray work.

I screwed together enough jointed stock to do both trays, and then cut the first profile on the band saw using my cardboard profiles.

Once I made the first cut I realised it would be best to sand both together before separating,
So an additional oscillating sander step occurred before both were then cut out as individual fronts.

It was then on to determining the grain layout for the NG rosewood I wanted to use on the sides and back.

Enough prattle here are the results in a reasonable sequence.

The front stock jointed and ready to cut

Wood Wood stain Rectangle Flooring Hardwood


The first cut completed.

Hood Motor vehicle Wood Automotive tire Bumper


The NGR Frame work layout.

Wood Watercraft Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies Boat Wood stain


The grain layout was my primary concern so I laid out the tray to allow the grain to run continuously from the front side to the back and complementary side.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish Plank


Now cutting rebates on curved timber was another brain teaser for me.

Automotive tire Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies Wood Gas Tints and shades


How I did it was a fairly simple solution, I used my drop saw with a preset depth and a backing board as a guide.
Simple eh!!

Next process will be dovetailing the back to the sides and then matching the sides to the front section for fit .
I am thinking rebated butt joints. Lets see what evolves!!

Enjoy!
 

Attachments

#75 ·
Starting the internal trays

Today I started the design and build up of the internal trays.

The overall concept is two trays the lower the deepest with central dividers to allow easy removal.

After doing some sketches and trying to determine a practical solution it was back to cutting curved profiles for the fronts.

I wanted to avoid this process and use kerf sawn curved sections, but my inexperience in doing timber 10 to 12mm sections saw me returning to cutting the fronts on the bandsaw.

I wanted to avoid having to veneer the trays but did not have enough stock to use NG Rosewood all round.

So it will be more veneering of the front and top of the trays at least.

I also was wanting to step back from veneering mainly due to the tearout I was experiencing.

The reason for this is not that it will not happen again but the apparent inability to be able to buy Hot Hide Glue and its associated accessories in Brisbane.

It seems that you can buy the Glue no worries but the brushes glue pot and other components are not available any where.

So my thoughts were to avoid veneering until I can repair any damage reasonably easly rather than have to resort to chiselling out Titebond glue, the glue is great don't get me wrong, but not if rework is required like veneer chip out.

Anyway back to the tray work.

I screwed together enough jointed stock to do both trays, and then cut the first profile on the band saw using my cardboard profiles.

Once I made the first cut I realised it would be best to sand both together before separating,
So an additional oscillating sander step occurred before both were then cut out as individual fronts.

It was then on to determining the grain layout for the NG rosewood I wanted to use on the sides and back.

Enough prattle here are the results in a reasonable sequence.

The front stock jointed and ready to cut

Wood Wood stain Rectangle Flooring Hardwood


The first cut completed.

Hood Motor vehicle Wood Automotive tire Bumper


The NGR Frame work layout.

Wood Watercraft Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies Boat Wood stain


The grain layout was my primary concern so I laid out the tray to allow the grain to run continuously from the front side to the back and complementary side.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish Plank


Now cutting rebates on curved timber was another brain teaser for me.

Automotive tire Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies Wood Gas Tints and shades


How I did it was a fairly simple solution, I used my drop saw with a preset depth and a backing board as a guide.
Simple eh!!

Next process will be dovetailing the back to the sides and then matching the sides to the front section for fit .
I am thinking rebated butt joints. Lets see what evolves!!

Enjoy!
Looks good Robert.
 

Attachments

#80 ·
Completion and Dry fit up of the Trays

I continued from yesterday, cut dovetails for the rear section joints and butts for the front
Brown Table Wood Hardwood Varnish


The bases were plywood shaped and rebated on the bandsaw and shaper
Table Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood


The process was fairly straightforward.

Cut the tray frames to fit the internals of the Box base,then cut the plywood to match the frames

Route a rebate into the tray frames
Wood Gas Composite material Circle Wood stain


Now this step again had me thinking again, cutting a slot or rebate in straight timber is no challenge, but cutting a piece of concave timber was.

I did not have a slotter bit with a bearing capable of cutting the inside of the curved front to the depth I required.

Simple I thought I will phone up and get a bigger bearing, but that was not to be so as the ID was bigger when wanting 38, 40, or 45mm OD

I wandered about checking every router bit In had, telling myself I could not believe i did not have one that would do the job, the perils of working in miniature!

Then as I was looking at my set of "junk budget" cutters. I saw something that could work.

I used the 1/4 Round over bit as shown its a modified bit with a bigger bearing, most people just remove the bearing but not me I stick a bigger bearing on!
Wood Gas Cylinder Plumbing fitting Hardwood


The wing was exactly the size I wanted so I removed the original bearing and replace it with a larger one to obtain the depth I needed.

So there you go, need a shallow groove with a slight round on one edge in very thin timber?

I then used a cove bit for a finger grip on the center piece

Once I had then all assembled some fine tuning was required
Wood Rectangle Beige Wood stain Tints and shades


Then the final dry assembly

The bases
Wood Rectangle Floor Flooring Table


The tops
Rectangle Wood Wood stain Flooring Plank


All looked OK so I thought I had better drop them in for a check up.

The bottom tray
Stairs Wood Rectangle Wood stain Flooring

and
The top Tray
Wood Rectangle Art Wood stain Flooring


Now its off for glue up and hopefully nothing moves out of square.

A question do you think they need a sub divider?

Coffee time!
 

Attachments

#81 ·
Completion and Dry fit up of the Trays

I continued from yesterday, cut dovetails for the rear section joints and butts for the front
Brown Table Wood Hardwood Varnish


The bases were plywood shaped and rebated on the bandsaw and shaper
Table Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood


The process was fairly straightforward.

Cut the tray frames to fit the internals of the Box base,then cut the plywood to match the frames

Route a rebate into the tray frames
Wood Gas Composite material Circle Wood stain


Now this step again had me thinking again, cutting a slot or rebate in straight timber is no challenge, but cutting a piece of concave timber was.

I did not have a slotter bit with a bearing capable of cutting the inside of the curved front to the depth I required.

Simple I thought I will phone up and get a bigger bearing, but that was not to be so as the ID was bigger when wanting 38, 40, or 45mm OD

I wandered about checking every router bit In had, telling myself I could not believe i did not have one that would do the job, the perils of working in miniature!

Then as I was looking at my set of "junk budget" cutters. I saw something that could work.

I used the 1/4 Round over bit as shown its a modified bit with a bigger bearing, most people just remove the bearing but not me I stick a bigger bearing on!
Wood Gas Cylinder Plumbing fitting Hardwood


The wing was exactly the size I wanted so I removed the original bearing and replace it with a larger one to obtain the depth I needed.

So there you go, need a shallow groove with a slight round on one edge in very thin timber?

I then used a cove bit for a finger grip on the center piece

Once I had then all assembled some fine tuning was required
Wood Rectangle Beige Wood stain Tints and shades


Then the final dry assembly

The bases
Wood Rectangle Floor Flooring Table


The tops
Rectangle Wood Wood stain Flooring Plank


All looked OK so I thought I had better drop them in for a check up.

The bottom tray
Stairs Wood Rectangle Wood stain Flooring

and
The top Tray
Wood Rectangle Art Wood stain Flooring


Now its off for glue up and hopefully nothing moves out of square.

A question do you think they need a sub divider?

Coffee time!
I'm for more dividers, otherwise the jewelry gets all mixed up. I would suggest some rectangular large areas for larger necklaces and a bunch of small ones for rings, earrings, etc.
 

Attachments

#83 ·
Finished in its Raw Form

Today I completed the assembly of the trays, added some extra storage sections and The Curved Front Box is structurally finished.

Remaining to do is:

The selection fitment of the hinges locks and stays.
The repair of the veneer chip out.
Determining of external and internal finishes, and
The installation of the veneer edge trim.

So this is the end of the construction Blog and the next time you see the box it will be posted as a completed project. Its highly likely that will happen in early 2014

Here is the raw assembled box

Humm pictures don't seem to want to load
2nd Try, not quite sure what happened the Project pictures were all going brown as well, but its OK now.

The Front
Table Wood Floor Wood stain Flooring


The Right Hand Side
Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Flooring


The Back
Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Flooring


The Left Hand Side
Wood Rectangle Floor Wood stain Flooring


The Final Tray Layout
I wanted to add some sections for small items and provide a way to prevent necklaces and the likes from becoming tangled.
The rings were my solution, I didn't want to do some thing too easy like straight dividers so this was the result.

Some New Guinea Rosewood was used, I selected a couple of suitable hole saws and set to work.
I used a length of garden hose to hold the rings, a bit like how a oil filter wrench would work.
Wood Wood stain Floor Hardwood Flooring


The Bottom tray
Wood Wood stain Floor Rectangle Hardwood


The Trays out.
Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood
 

Attachments

#84 ·
Finished in its Raw Form

Today I completed the assembly of the trays, added some extra storage sections and The Curved Front Box is structurally finished.

Remaining to do is:

The selection fitment of the hinges locks and stays.
The repair of the veneer chip out.
Determining of external and internal finishes, and
The installation of the veneer edge trim.

So this is the end of the construction Blog and the next time you see the box it will be posted as a completed project. Its highly likely that will happen in early 2014

Here is the raw assembled box

Humm pictures don't seem to want to load
2nd Try, not quite sure what happened the Project pictures were all going brown as well, but its OK now.

The Front
Table Wood Floor Wood stain Flooring


The Right Hand Side
Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Flooring


The Back
Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Flooring


The Left Hand Side
Wood Rectangle Floor Wood stain Flooring


The Final Tray Layout
I wanted to add some sections for small items and provide a way to prevent necklaces and the likes from becoming tangled.
The rings were my solution, I didn't want to do some thing too easy like straight dividers so this was the result.

Some New Guinea Rosewood was used, I selected a couple of suitable hole saws and set to work.
I used a length of garden hose to hold the rings, a bit like how a oil filter wrench would work.
Wood Wood stain Floor Hardwood Flooring


The Bottom tray
Wood Wood stain Floor Rectangle Hardwood


The Trays out.
Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood
Wonderful result Robert. I can't wait to see it with a finish and the hardware mounted.
 

Attachments

#88 ·
The finished product from 2013

I found this box tucked away today and realised I had never completed the blog or posted it as a project way back in 2013.

Its got a few veneer chip outs which need fixing but I must have lost interest in it.

So here is a few completed shots warts and all.

Musical instrument Wood Natural material Plant Wood stain


I had a magpie stroll over to see what I was doing then all his mates arrived to get in the action

Bird Wood Beak Grass Plant


Bird Grass Plant Wood Pet supply


I just kept taking pictures and they just got closer and closer

Table Wood Outdoor furniture Stool Chair


They even checked out the internal trays as well.

Glove Grass Bird Wood Recreation


They didnt bother me and I guess maybe they thought I had made them a nesting box.

Wood Grass Plant Pet supply Bird


So thats it all complete just three years later !!
 

Attachments

#89 ·
The finished product from 2013

I found this box tucked away today and realised I had never completed the blog or posted it as a project way back in 2013.

Its got a few veneer chip outs which need fixing but I must have lost interest in it.

So here is a few completed shots warts and all.

Musical instrument Wood Natural material Plant Wood stain


I had a magpie stroll over to see what I was doing then all his mates arrived to get in the action

Bird Wood Beak Grass Plant


Bird Grass Plant Wood Pet supply


I just kept taking pictures and they just got closer and closer

Table Wood Outdoor furniture Stool Chair


They even checked out the internal trays as well.

Glove Grass Bird Wood Recreation


They didnt bother me and I guess maybe they thought I had made them a nesting box.

Wood Grass Plant Pet supply Bird


So thats it all complete just three years later !!
COOL box…

COOL Design!

COOL Magpie Nest! They will be very happy, I'm sure… Special Nesting areas n ALL! :)

Better late than never…

Thank you…
 

Attachments

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