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Working with recycled timber #9: 20 Stave Drum. Routing the Staves

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Blog entry by robscastle posted 08-10-2013 10:42 AM 965 reads 0 times favorited 2 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 8: 20 Stave Drum. Stave glue up Part 9 of Working with recycled timber series Part 10: Attaching the base, base trim and a reinforcing ring »

The drum cylinder section is now complete and reasonably ridged enough to handle.

Now all I need is to decide what pattern to apply to the staves.
Initially I was going to use my 3D router Carver but the narrow staves discounted it fairly early.

I then thought about putting circles on each stave, but decided against it as being plain and boring after making the pattern and doing a test run and seeing the result.

So I decided to go with an duplicated elongated pattern.

I set about modifying the pattern template, actually I made about three in the process as I developed the final “design”, If you could call it that.

Some that fell by the wayside!

The final Pattern is a composite of the first two cut up as the positioning was too close to the edges, and by this stage I was getting a little annoyed with myself in being not able to make a simple pattern that complemented the drum!

Here is the final Pattern template in use.

The reason its looking like a Frankenstein creation is because that’s exactly what it is the original design needed to be moved toward the center of the drum for aspect reasons so I cut it up reversed it and added a section in the middle to set the position, the end circles were the first attempt, plus I was running out of time and wood.

How it was made, apart from the obvious,

Using a forstner bit three 40mm holes were cut with the pedestal drill with the center hole overlapping.
The router table and a straight bit was then used to mill the remaining material out from circle to circle to make parallel edges joining edges to the outer circles.

Two strengthening ribs were added to the sides and little sanding to remove burrs etc and it was finished.

What’s the LT and RT all about? Well even after cutting everything precisely as possible the symmetry was still out a few mm horizontally if the template was inverted.
I fitted the pattern template with ‘wings” so I could clamp it using spring clamps in position quickly and efficiently and not have any movement.

A hand router was then set up with 20mm bush and 15mm core bit ready to go.

A test run to determine a suitable depth was done then on with the template and route away.

This is the finished product.

-- Regards Robert



2 comments so far

View Roger's profile

Roger

14608 posts in 1461 days


#1 posted 08-10-2013 12:54 PM

I like it

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Kentuk55@bellsouth.net

View Loren's profile

Loren

7569 posts in 2305 days


#2 posted 08-10-2013 05:18 PM

I built a lot of drums when I was younger. Tapered
ones are easier to assemble because I would weld
up rings and just pound them down the taper to
clamp.

For straight sided forms I would use pinch dogs to
glue staves together in pairs, then in 4s and so forth.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

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