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#1 ·
Solid Myrtle Inlay Box SMIB (built by after thought processes)

I was supposed to be cleaning up for Christmas when I found a length of of Tasmanian Myrtle offcut.

I decided I should put a challenge to myself and try to make a box from it just using the one piece of solid timber.

This is where all the creative after thoughts started kicking in! (ATn)

I originally started off with the box using the length of Tassie Myrtle which was about 800mm long 90mm wide and 20mm thick.

Preparation of the Box Frame:

AT1
I thought I would match all the grain so it ran continously around the box, so I decided to divide it up into four sections.
Section 1 An end about 120mm,
Section 2 The corresponding side at about 250mm then,
Section 3 The other end at 120mm and finally,
Section 4 The other side at 250 mm.

AT2
I then realised that the begining of Section A and the end of Section 4 would not be matched.
Not being too concerned this would give me at least 3 joints grain matched, and the miss matched section could be at the back.

I Jointed the piece of timber and thicknessed it, this activity resulted in a nice piece of usable length of about 750mm.
As it looked OK I thought I would remove the bullk of the timber in the middle.

AT3
I contiued on and then set up the shaper with a 50 mm straight cutter and milled out the middle section.
Using a series of incremental cuts the 50mm recess was formed, it had very small amount of chip out on the edges at the final depth of the recess was about 10 mm.

The ajoining lips top and bottom were now 20mm.

I then cut a rebate for the bottom of the box and it was ready for the next stage of assembly.

I cut up all the timber and by the time I had finished all the miters it was a loose assembled size of 230 mm x 110 mm x 18 mm.

I glued it up and after checking it the next day it looked very bland, almost no significant grain pattern and the edges were very sharp, and there were the small chips which needed sanding off.

AT4.

Adding an inlay strip:

I decided adding an inlay strip would add some characer.

Returning to the shaper I set it up again whith a smaller cutter and cut a inlay recess by doing an initial cut and then moving it up and reversing the box to ensure I had it centralised.
Note:This step should have been done with the timber in one length.

AT5

Rounding over the edges

Part 1:
This process turned into a very involved activity and again should have been done before the timber was cut up.

Part 2: I set up a round over bit in the shaper and did the top lip and bottom lip.
This worked well and the finish removed all the small chip out defects. The only problem was the inner edges were still square and sharp.
My round over bit bearing was too high and would touch on the recess top before engaging the inner edge.

AT6
To overcome this problem I removed the bearing and the bit just fitted …great.

AT7 I was then I decided I should take some photographs to document the errors I was encountering so others may benefit.

Grey Floor Wood Audio equipment Flooring


Rounding over the Corners

I used my disk sander to round over the corners and did it by eye.

This is the result so far.

After Rounding over the Corners:

Rectangle Wood Natural material Shelf Composite material


Wood Rectangle Flooring Hardwood Wood stain


After Rounding over the edges:

Rectangle Beige Wood Box Packing materials


Rectangle Shipping box Beige Wood Packing materials


Humm so much for cleaning up!... To be continued!
 

Attachments

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#2 ·
Solid Myrtle Inlay Box SMIB (built by after thought processes)

I was supposed to be cleaning up for Christmas when I found a length of of Tasmanian Myrtle offcut.

I decided I should put a challenge to myself and try to make a box from it just using the one piece of solid timber.

This is where all the creative after thoughts started kicking in! (ATn)

I originally started off with the box using the length of Tassie Myrtle which was about 800mm long 90mm wide and 20mm thick.

Preparation of the Box Frame:

AT1
I thought I would match all the grain so it ran continously around the box, so I decided to divide it up into four sections.
Section 1 An end about 120mm,
Section 2 The corresponding side at about 250mm then,
Section 3 The other end at 120mm and finally,
Section 4 The other side at 250 mm.

AT2
I then realised that the begining of Section A and the end of Section 4 would not be matched.
Not being too concerned this would give me at least 3 joints grain matched, and the miss matched section could be at the back.

I Jointed the piece of timber and thicknessed it, this activity resulted in a nice piece of usable length of about 750mm.
As it looked OK I thought I would remove the bullk of the timber in the middle.

AT3
I contiued on and then set up the shaper with a 50 mm straight cutter and milled out the middle section.
Using a series of incremental cuts the 50mm recess was formed, it had very small amount of chip out on the edges at the final depth of the recess was about 10 mm.

The ajoining lips top and bottom were now 20mm.

I then cut a rebate for the bottom of the box and it was ready for the next stage of assembly.

I cut up all the timber and by the time I had finished all the miters it was a loose assembled size of 230 mm x 110 mm x 18 mm.

I glued it up and after checking it the next day it looked very bland, almost no significant grain pattern and the edges were very sharp, and there were the small chips which needed sanding off.

AT4.

Adding an inlay strip:

I decided adding an inlay strip would add some characer.

Returning to the shaper I set it up again whith a smaller cutter and cut a inlay recess by doing an initial cut and then moving it up and reversing the box to ensure I had it centralised.
Note:This step should have been done with the timber in one length.

AT5

Rounding over the edges

Part 1:
This process turned into a very involved activity and again should have been done before the timber was cut up.

Part 2: I set up a round over bit in the shaper and did the top lip and bottom lip.
This worked well and the finish removed all the small chip out defects. The only problem was the inner edges were still square and sharp.
My round over bit bearing was too high and would touch on the recess top before engaging the inner edge.

AT6
To overcome this problem I removed the bearing and the bit just fitted …great.

AT7 I was then I decided I should take some photographs to document the errors I was encountering so others may benefit.

Grey Floor Wood Audio equipment Flooring


Rounding over the Corners

I used my disk sander to round over the corners and did it by eye.

This is the result so far.

After Rounding over the Corners:

Rectangle Wood Natural material Shelf Composite material


Wood Rectangle Flooring Hardwood Wood stain


After Rounding over the edges:

Rectangle Beige Wood Box Packing materials


Rectangle Shipping box Beige Wood Packing materials


Humm so much for cleaning up!... To be continued!
Looks like it's cleaning up rather well Robert!
The banding looks Excellent on it, just the right touch…
 

Attachments

#3 ·
Solid Myrtle Inlay Box SMIB (built by after thought processes)

I was supposed to be cleaning up for Christmas when I found a length of of Tasmanian Myrtle offcut.

I decided I should put a challenge to myself and try to make a box from it just using the one piece of solid timber.

This is where all the creative after thoughts started kicking in! (ATn)

I originally started off with the box using the length of Tassie Myrtle which was about 800mm long 90mm wide and 20mm thick.

Preparation of the Box Frame:

AT1
I thought I would match all the grain so it ran continously around the box, so I decided to divide it up into four sections.
Section 1 An end about 120mm,
Section 2 The corresponding side at about 250mm then,
Section 3 The other end at 120mm and finally,
Section 4 The other side at 250 mm.

AT2
I then realised that the begining of Section A and the end of Section 4 would not be matched.
Not being too concerned this would give me at least 3 joints grain matched, and the miss matched section could be at the back.

I Jointed the piece of timber and thicknessed it, this activity resulted in a nice piece of usable length of about 750mm.
As it looked OK I thought I would remove the bullk of the timber in the middle.

AT3
I contiued on and then set up the shaper with a 50 mm straight cutter and milled out the middle section.
Using a series of incremental cuts the 50mm recess was formed, it had very small amount of chip out on the edges at the final depth of the recess was about 10 mm.

The ajoining lips top and bottom were now 20mm.

I then cut a rebate for the bottom of the box and it was ready for the next stage of assembly.

I cut up all the timber and by the time I had finished all the miters it was a loose assembled size of 230 mm x 110 mm x 18 mm.

I glued it up and after checking it the next day it looked very bland, almost no significant grain pattern and the edges were very sharp, and there were the small chips which needed sanding off.

AT4.

Adding an inlay strip:

I decided adding an inlay strip would add some characer.

Returning to the shaper I set it up again whith a smaller cutter and cut a inlay recess by doing an initial cut and then moving it up and reversing the box to ensure I had it centralised.
Note:This step should have been done with the timber in one length.

AT5

Rounding over the edges

Part 1:
This process turned into a very involved activity and again should have been done before the timber was cut up.

Part 2: I set up a round over bit in the shaper and did the top lip and bottom lip.
This worked well and the finish removed all the small chip out defects. The only problem was the inner edges were still square and sharp.
My round over bit bearing was too high and would touch on the recess top before engaging the inner edge.

AT6
To overcome this problem I removed the bearing and the bit just fitted …great.

AT7 I was then I decided I should take some photographs to document the errors I was encountering so others may benefit.

Grey Floor Wood Audio equipment Flooring


Rounding over the Corners

I used my disk sander to round over the corners and did it by eye.

This is the result so far.

After Rounding over the Corners:

Rectangle Wood Natural material Shelf Composite material


Wood Rectangle Flooring Hardwood Wood stain


After Rounding over the edges:

Rectangle Beige Wood Box Packing materials


Rectangle Shipping box Beige Wood Packing materials


Humm so much for cleaning up!... To be continued!
Nice job so far…
 

Attachments

#4 ·
Solid Myrtle Inlay Box SMIB (built by after thought processes)

I was supposed to be cleaning up for Christmas when I found a length of of Tasmanian Myrtle offcut.

I decided I should put a challenge to myself and try to make a box from it just using the one piece of solid timber.

This is where all the creative after thoughts started kicking in! (ATn)

I originally started off with the box using the length of Tassie Myrtle which was about 800mm long 90mm wide and 20mm thick.

Preparation of the Box Frame:

AT1
I thought I would match all the grain so it ran continously around the box, so I decided to divide it up into four sections.
Section 1 An end about 120mm,
Section 2 The corresponding side at about 250mm then,
Section 3 The other end at 120mm and finally,
Section 4 The other side at 250 mm.

AT2
I then realised that the begining of Section A and the end of Section 4 would not be matched.
Not being too concerned this would give me at least 3 joints grain matched, and the miss matched section could be at the back.

I Jointed the piece of timber and thicknessed it, this activity resulted in a nice piece of usable length of about 750mm.
As it looked OK I thought I would remove the bullk of the timber in the middle.

AT3
I contiued on and then set up the shaper with a 50 mm straight cutter and milled out the middle section.
Using a series of incremental cuts the 50mm recess was formed, it had very small amount of chip out on the edges at the final depth of the recess was about 10 mm.

The ajoining lips top and bottom were now 20mm.

I then cut a rebate for the bottom of the box and it was ready for the next stage of assembly.

I cut up all the timber and by the time I had finished all the miters it was a loose assembled size of 230 mm x 110 mm x 18 mm.

I glued it up and after checking it the next day it looked very bland, almost no significant grain pattern and the edges were very sharp, and there were the small chips which needed sanding off.

AT4.

Adding an inlay strip:

I decided adding an inlay strip would add some characer.

Returning to the shaper I set it up again whith a smaller cutter and cut a inlay recess by doing an initial cut and then moving it up and reversing the box to ensure I had it centralised.
Note:This step should have been done with the timber in one length.

AT5

Rounding over the edges

Part 1:
This process turned into a very involved activity and again should have been done before the timber was cut up.

Part 2: I set up a round over bit in the shaper and did the top lip and bottom lip.
This worked well and the finish removed all the small chip out defects. The only problem was the inner edges were still square and sharp.
My round over bit bearing was too high and would touch on the recess top before engaging the inner edge.

AT6
To overcome this problem I removed the bearing and the bit just fitted …great.

AT7 I was then I decided I should take some photographs to document the errors I was encountering so others may benefit.

Grey Floor Wood Audio equipment Flooring


Rounding over the Corners

I used my disk sander to round over the corners and did it by eye.

This is the result so far.

After Rounding over the Corners:

Rectangle Wood Natural material Shelf Composite material


Wood Rectangle Flooring Hardwood Wood stain


After Rounding over the edges:

Rectangle Beige Wood Box Packing materials


Rectangle Shipping box Beige Wood Packing materials


Humm so much for cleaning up!... To be continued!
very nice craftmenship.
 

Attachments

#5 ·
Solid Myrtle Inlay Box SMIB (built by after thought processes)

I was supposed to be cleaning up for Christmas when I found a length of of Tasmanian Myrtle offcut.

I decided I should put a challenge to myself and try to make a box from it just using the one piece of solid timber.

This is where all the creative after thoughts started kicking in! (ATn)

I originally started off with the box using the length of Tassie Myrtle which was about 800mm long 90mm wide and 20mm thick.

Preparation of the Box Frame:

AT1
I thought I would match all the grain so it ran continously around the box, so I decided to divide it up into four sections.
Section 1 An end about 120mm,
Section 2 The corresponding side at about 250mm then,
Section 3 The other end at 120mm and finally,
Section 4 The other side at 250 mm.

AT2
I then realised that the begining of Section A and the end of Section 4 would not be matched.
Not being too concerned this would give me at least 3 joints grain matched, and the miss matched section could be at the back.

I Jointed the piece of timber and thicknessed it, this activity resulted in a nice piece of usable length of about 750mm.
As it looked OK I thought I would remove the bullk of the timber in the middle.

AT3
I contiued on and then set up the shaper with a 50 mm straight cutter and milled out the middle section.
Using a series of incremental cuts the 50mm recess was formed, it had very small amount of chip out on the edges at the final depth of the recess was about 10 mm.

The ajoining lips top and bottom were now 20mm.

I then cut a rebate for the bottom of the box and it was ready for the next stage of assembly.

I cut up all the timber and by the time I had finished all the miters it was a loose assembled size of 230 mm x 110 mm x 18 mm.

I glued it up and after checking it the next day it looked very bland, almost no significant grain pattern and the edges were very sharp, and there were the small chips which needed sanding off.

AT4.

Adding an inlay strip:

I decided adding an inlay strip would add some characer.

Returning to the shaper I set it up again whith a smaller cutter and cut a inlay recess by doing an initial cut and then moving it up and reversing the box to ensure I had it centralised.
Note:This step should have been done with the timber in one length.

AT5

Rounding over the edges

Part 1:
This process turned into a very involved activity and again should have been done before the timber was cut up.

Part 2: I set up a round over bit in the shaper and did the top lip and bottom lip.
This worked well and the finish removed all the small chip out defects. The only problem was the inner edges were still square and sharp.
My round over bit bearing was too high and would touch on the recess top before engaging the inner edge.

AT6
To overcome this problem I removed the bearing and the bit just fitted …great.

AT7 I was then I decided I should take some photographs to document the errors I was encountering so others may benefit.

Grey Floor Wood Audio equipment Flooring


Rounding over the Corners

I used my disk sander to round over the corners and did it by eye.

This is the result so far.

After Rounding over the Corners:

Rectangle Wood Natural material Shelf Composite material


Wood Rectangle Flooring Hardwood Wood stain


After Rounding over the edges:

Rectangle Beige Wood Box Packing materials


Rectangle Shipping box Beige Wood Packing materials


Humm so much for cleaning up!... To be continued!
Robert,

That's looking super cool, so far…!

That Inlay Strip…. Did you make it? If so, do you have a writeup on how you did it? That is very striking! ... really like it!

Thank you!
 

Attachments

#6 ·
Solid Myrtle Inlay Box SMIB (built by after thought processes)

I was supposed to be cleaning up for Christmas when I found a length of of Tasmanian Myrtle offcut.

I decided I should put a challenge to myself and try to make a box from it just using the one piece of solid timber.

This is where all the creative after thoughts started kicking in! (ATn)

I originally started off with the box using the length of Tassie Myrtle which was about 800mm long 90mm wide and 20mm thick.

Preparation of the Box Frame:

AT1
I thought I would match all the grain so it ran continously around the box, so I decided to divide it up into four sections.
Section 1 An end about 120mm,
Section 2 The corresponding side at about 250mm then,
Section 3 The other end at 120mm and finally,
Section 4 The other side at 250 mm.

AT2
I then realised that the begining of Section A and the end of Section 4 would not be matched.
Not being too concerned this would give me at least 3 joints grain matched, and the miss matched section could be at the back.

I Jointed the piece of timber and thicknessed it, this activity resulted in a nice piece of usable length of about 750mm.
As it looked OK I thought I would remove the bullk of the timber in the middle.

AT3
I contiued on and then set up the shaper with a 50 mm straight cutter and milled out the middle section.
Using a series of incremental cuts the 50mm recess was formed, it had very small amount of chip out on the edges at the final depth of the recess was about 10 mm.

The ajoining lips top and bottom were now 20mm.

I then cut a rebate for the bottom of the box and it was ready for the next stage of assembly.

I cut up all the timber and by the time I had finished all the miters it was a loose assembled size of 230 mm x 110 mm x 18 mm.

I glued it up and after checking it the next day it looked very bland, almost no significant grain pattern and the edges were very sharp, and there were the small chips which needed sanding off.

AT4.

Adding an inlay strip:

I decided adding an inlay strip would add some characer.

Returning to the shaper I set it up again whith a smaller cutter and cut a inlay recess by doing an initial cut and then moving it up and reversing the box to ensure I had it centralised.
Note:This step should have been done with the timber in one length.

AT5

Rounding over the edges

Part 1:
This process turned into a very involved activity and again should have been done before the timber was cut up.

Part 2: I set up a round over bit in the shaper and did the top lip and bottom lip.
This worked well and the finish removed all the small chip out defects. The only problem was the inner edges were still square and sharp.
My round over bit bearing was too high and would touch on the recess top before engaging the inner edge.

AT6
To overcome this problem I removed the bearing and the bit just fitted …great.

AT7 I was then I decided I should take some photographs to document the errors I was encountering so others may benefit.

Grey Floor Wood Audio equipment Flooring


Rounding over the Corners

I used my disk sander to round over the corners and did it by eye.

This is the result so far.

After Rounding over the Corners:

Rectangle Wood Natural material Shelf Composite material


Wood Rectangle Flooring Hardwood Wood stain


After Rounding over the edges:

Rectangle Beige Wood Box Packing materials


Rectangle Shipping box Beige Wood Packing materials


Humm so much for cleaning up!... To be continued!
Cleaning can wait. I'm likin this
 

Attachments

#7 ·
SMIB Lid work/s

So much for making a box from a single piece of wood.
Here I am and already I have used all of the original Myrtle, added a veneer inlay and now working on the lid.

Rummaging through my box making pieces, I obtained from Degoose I find a suitable piece to make a lid for the box.

I am not sure what the timber is but it looked OK and suitable, so onto the table saw it went.

Wood Table Rectangle Hardwood Wood stain


The timber was trimmed removing the split ends and then squared up using the saw.

Cutting the Rebate:

I measured the box opening and marked out a suitable rebate to allow it to fit inside.

The rebate was cut with the table saw and then after checking the fit I commenced the lid top profiling.

Lid Profiling:

I set the blade angle to 15 degs and started the cuts.

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Flooring Wood stain


Then it was on to the commencement of sanding a suitable profile, for this I used my disk sander to produce a rough profile rounded to suit the box base.

Once I had that done it was time for final hand sanding.

I initally hand sanded it with 120 Grit and fitted it all up to ensure all was good.

Rectangle Dishware Wood Linens Table


Here is a shot of the rebate.

Rectangle Wood Beige Hardwood Tints and shades


After taking a look at it I thought the lid mass was too heavy, so I decided to remove some material using a forstner bit.

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Brick Wood stain


I then had the silly idea of removing all the mateial to the dept of the forstner bit cuts.
So I made a frame around it thinking I could route out the excess material upside down without being able to see the bit.

This was not one of the smartest of my ideas ideas as removing the material inside using a down cut spiral bit without being able to see what was going on, worked but it failed as the ends broke out ruining all the work.

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Wood stain Plywood


So it was a trip to the rubbish bin and then time for a complete remake, this time I reduced the lid thickness and replicated the 15 Deg profile.

This was the result for Lid No 2.

Wood Stool Rectangle Hardwood Box


And again showing the rebate.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Composite material


I think the second lid produced a box with a nicer lower profile looking lid and didnt look anywhere like a minature casket that I had with lid No 1.

The bottom:

For the bottom I added yet another piece of timber by using a piece of 6 mm MDF.

Timber count is now 4 Frame 1 Veneer Insert 2 MDF Base 3 and the final Lid 4.
Its almost finished, cannot say the same for the clean up !!

Stand by for the finishing process.
 

Attachments

#8 ·
SMIB Lid work/s

So much for making a box from a single piece of wood.
Here I am and already I have used all of the original Myrtle, added a veneer inlay and now working on the lid.

Rummaging through my box making pieces, I obtained from Degoose I find a suitable piece to make a lid for the box.

I am not sure what the timber is but it looked OK and suitable, so onto the table saw it went.

Wood Table Rectangle Hardwood Wood stain


The timber was trimmed removing the split ends and then squared up using the saw.

Cutting the Rebate:

I measured the box opening and marked out a suitable rebate to allow it to fit inside.

The rebate was cut with the table saw and then after checking the fit I commenced the lid top profiling.

Lid Profiling:

I set the blade angle to 15 degs and started the cuts.

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Flooring Wood stain


Then it was on to the commencement of sanding a suitable profile, for this I used my disk sander to produce a rough profile rounded to suit the box base.

Once I had that done it was time for final hand sanding.

I initally hand sanded it with 120 Grit and fitted it all up to ensure all was good.

Rectangle Dishware Wood Linens Table


Here is a shot of the rebate.

Rectangle Wood Beige Hardwood Tints and shades


After taking a look at it I thought the lid mass was too heavy, so I decided to remove some material using a forstner bit.

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Brick Wood stain


I then had the silly idea of removing all the mateial to the dept of the forstner bit cuts.
So I made a frame around it thinking I could route out the excess material upside down without being able to see the bit.

This was not one of the smartest of my ideas ideas as removing the material inside using a down cut spiral bit without being able to see what was going on, worked but it failed as the ends broke out ruining all the work.

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Wood stain Plywood


So it was a trip to the rubbish bin and then time for a complete remake, this time I reduced the lid thickness and replicated the 15 Deg profile.

This was the result for Lid No 2.

Wood Stool Rectangle Hardwood Box


And again showing the rebate.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Composite material


I think the second lid produced a box with a nicer lower profile looking lid and didnt look anywhere like a minature casket that I had with lid No 1.

The bottom:

For the bottom I added yet another piece of timber by using a piece of 6 mm MDF.

Timber count is now 4 Frame 1 Veneer Insert 2 MDF Base 3 and the final Lid 4.
Its almost finished, cannot say the same for the clean up !!

Stand by for the finishing process.
Splendid Work Robert…
Pity the first top busted out on you, but nice bit of recovery making another so quickly… And it does look better than the first one anyway!
 

Attachments

#13 ·
Inlay veneer dilema

Does any LJ understand the method of construction or demonstrate how this Inlay strip is manufactured ?

Wood Rectangle Flooring Hardwood Wood stain


Joe Lyddon and I have been discussing it and I must admit I was curious about it on the purchase day.

Here is one of the replies Joe and I have been conversing about

I had another look at the inlay veneer strip in an attempt to determine how it was made.
I have a small hand held microscope I used to use for stamps, so using that I found the following Observations:
Obs 1: It is definately all composite material and not photo dye image.

Obs 2: The four outer edges on each side which are black and natural the grain runs length wise.
Obs 3: The alternating same Black and natural boxes next in are individual pieces with the grain now at 90 deg to the strip.

Obs 4: There is then two natural timber very thin strings ls running along the length and the grain as is in Obs 2.

Obs 5: The larger natural colour square blocks are individual and the grain runs along the length of the strip, bounded by the black at a grain orientation of 90 deg difference.

Obs 6: the Aztek or alternating up and across and down again is a composite of black, natural, brown, natural again and edged in black again all layered in six sections cut at 45 deg and the grain follows the pattern in relation to its aspect, Up Across Down.

My conclusions:
1. The section in Obs 2 are two veneer sheets one is 100% dyed black, )this is evident by examining the end grain for penetration), and the other is natural timber both glued together face to face.
The sections in Obs 3 are the same composition only positioned at 90 deg to the first section.
The sectons in Obs 6 are composed of the black section, the strip of very thin section an new introduced brown section, the thin section again borderd by the black again.
This is cut at 45 deg and then alternating in position along the length of the veneer strip.

2. From this I can determine how the strip is composed but as to how it is cut handled and assembled is beyond me, I searched on the net and found similar bigger examples, ( and having made some myself) understand the method but not the physicsal mechanics of the assembly of something this size particuarly the handling of parts so small.

All very interesting !!
 

Attachments

#14 ·
Inlay veneer dilema

Does any LJ understand the method of construction or demonstrate how this Inlay strip is manufactured ?

Wood Rectangle Flooring Hardwood Wood stain


Joe Lyddon and I have been discussing it and I must admit I was curious about it on the purchase day.

Here is one of the replies Joe and I have been conversing about

I had another look at the inlay veneer strip in an attempt to determine how it was made.
I have a small hand held microscope I used to use for stamps, so using that I found the following Observations:
Obs 1: It is definately all composite material and not photo dye image.

Obs 2: The four outer edges on each side which are black and natural the grain runs length wise.
Obs 3: The alternating same Black and natural boxes next in are individual pieces with the grain now at 90 deg to the strip.

Obs 4: There is then two natural timber very thin strings ls running along the length and the grain as is in Obs 2.

Obs 5: The larger natural colour square blocks are individual and the grain runs along the length of the strip, bounded by the black at a grain orientation of 90 deg difference.

Obs 6: the Aztek or alternating up and across and down again is a composite of black, natural, brown, natural again and edged in black again all layered in six sections cut at 45 deg and the grain follows the pattern in relation to its aspect, Up Across Down.

My conclusions:
1. The section in Obs 2 are two veneer sheets one is 100% dyed black, )this is evident by examining the end grain for penetration), and the other is natural timber both glued together face to face.
The sections in Obs 3 are the same composition only positioned at 90 deg to the first section.
The sectons in Obs 6 are composed of the black section, the strip of very thin section an new introduced brown section, the thin section again borderd by the black again.
This is cut at 45 deg and then alternating in position along the length of the veneer strip.

2. From this I can determine how the strip is composed but as to how it is cut handled and assembled is beyond me, I searched on the net and found similar bigger examples, ( and having made some myself) understand the method but not the physicsal mechanics of the assembly of something this size particuarly the handling of parts so small.

All very interesting !!
Google "making inlay patterns"...98,000 hits for video.
Here's a good one.
Of course this is private manufacturing.
I'm sure the big companies are much more automated.
 

Attachments

#18 ·
EGBs Jewellery box opps, or how not to make a bandsaw box

I had a request from No 2 Son to replicate the Box I made for his first daughter Caitlin
Seems younger sister Emily spotted it and requested the same,

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Table Tableware


I didn't keep any records on how I did it and asked if I could get it back to copy it, this proved to be impossible due to the aproaching Birthday.

So I set to work, working off a few pictures I took before.

I was making great progress until I put the lid on.

There seemed to be a problen with the grain.

Furniture Table Wood Rectangle Natural material


Wondering if I had assembled it incorrectly I reversed the lid, that was worse!

Rectangle Wood Floor Flooring Hardwood


So I "fiddled about" and discovered I had the sides reversed L and R

One side matched
Wood Beige Floor Flooring Rectangle


The other side matched
Wood Window Wood stain Hardwood Rectangle


This occured even after I had everything marked and layed out as well!
Furniture Table Wood Wood stain Hardwood


Oh well thats getting old for you!! and I thought I was making such great progress too!! at least I know what I will be doing first up tomorrow.
 

Attachments

#19 ·
EGBs Jewellery box opps, or how not to make a bandsaw box

I had a request from No 2 Son to replicate the Box I made for his first daughter Caitlin
Seems younger sister Emily spotted it and requested the same,

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Table Tableware


I didn't keep any records on how I did it and asked if I could get it back to copy it, this proved to be impossible due to the aproaching Birthday.

So I set to work, working off a few pictures I took before.

I was making great progress until I put the lid on.

There seemed to be a problen with the grain.

Furniture Table Wood Rectangle Natural material


Wondering if I had assembled it incorrectly I reversed the lid, that was worse!

Rectangle Wood Floor Flooring Hardwood


So I "fiddled about" and discovered I had the sides reversed L and R

One side matched
Wood Beige Floor Flooring Rectangle


The other side matched
Wood Window Wood stain Hardwood Rectangle


This occured even after I had everything marked and layed out as well!
Furniture Table Wood Wood stain Hardwood


Oh well thats getting old for you!! and I thought I was making such great progress too!! at least I know what I will be doing first up tomorrow.
Oops
 

Attachments

#23 ·
EGB Jewellery box Opps Fixed

Just in case everybody thought I may have dumped the screw up work I did on Emily's Jewellery box.

Today as planned I cut off the sides with the bandsaw and glued them back on the correct sides.
Fabricated a hinge and began the inlay banding

Here we go, this is when you turn on the bandsaw and fingers crossed hope it works out.

Plant Wood Outdoor furniture Rectangle Table


First cut went well so I continued

Wood Road surface Rectangle Outdoor furniture Floor


Now I dry assembled all the parts this time to ensure I did not repeat my previous error

Table Rectangle Wood Road surface Flooring


Glue it back together for the second time, let it dry then

Then fabricated the lid hinge, and began the inlay banding work.

Hood Wood Asphalt Road surface Bumper


Note the correct flowing grain, ....just in case you missed it ….Phew saved !!

Thats enough self flagelation (is that correct spelling?) now its on to a completed Project !!
 

Attachments

#24 ·
EGB Jewellery box Opps Fixed

Just in case everybody thought I may have dumped the screw up work I did on Emily's Jewellery box.

Today as planned I cut off the sides with the bandsaw and glued them back on the correct sides.
Fabricated a hinge and began the inlay banding

Here we go, this is when you turn on the bandsaw and fingers crossed hope it works out.

Plant Wood Outdoor furniture Rectangle Table


First cut went well so I continued

Wood Road surface Rectangle Outdoor furniture Floor


Now I dry assembled all the parts this time to ensure I did not repeat my previous error

Table Rectangle Wood Road surface Flooring


Glue it back together for the second time, let it dry then

Then fabricated the lid hinge, and began the inlay banding work.

Hood Wood Asphalt Road surface Bumper


Note the correct flowing grain, ....just in case you missed it ….Phew saved !!

Thats enough self flagelation (is that correct spelling?) now its on to a completed Project !!
the fix is in

nice save
 

Attachments

#28 ·
Off cuts/Scraps put to use

I just finished making some compartment boxes

Wood Flooring Brick Floor Brickwork


In the process I had a few off cuts of which naturally enough had been jointed and thicknessed.

The timber was New Guinea Rosewood so it was worth saving as such.

Wood Brick Hardwood Brickwork Flooring


So today I got out the Gifkins Dovetail Jig again and set to work making four small boxes as a skill building activity.

Once I had the Dovetails cut and glued up I sanded them all to 320 grit, rounded the corners over and applied a finishing coat of Shellawax.

A note: The recommended minimum sanding finish before applying Shellawax is 320 Grit otherwise its a waste of the product.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor Wood stain


Quite a nice result I thought.

Brown Rectangle Wood Material property Hardwood


Simple as that !!
 

Attachments

#29 ·
Off cuts/Scraps put to use

I just finished making some compartment boxes

Wood Flooring Brick Floor Brickwork


In the process I had a few off cuts of which naturally enough had been jointed and thicknessed.

The timber was New Guinea Rosewood so it was worth saving as such.

Wood Brick Hardwood Brickwork Flooring


So today I got out the Gifkins Dovetail Jig again and set to work making four small boxes as a skill building activity.

Once I had the Dovetails cut and glued up I sanded them all to 320 grit, rounded the corners over and applied a finishing coat of Shellawax.

A note: The recommended minimum sanding finish before applying Shellawax is 320 Grit otherwise its a waste of the product.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor Wood stain


Quite a nice result I thought.

Brown Rectangle Wood Material property Hardwood


Simple as that !!
The boxes, once engraved and finished turned out great…
Your new boxes look great… did the groove cut better once the box was dry assembled…
 

Attachments

#36 ·
Boxguy Big Al's SPLINE Box begins

This is a project I committed to "quite some time ago" and every time I post a box Big Al reminds me about it.

So after seeing Tooch present his Box I thought it best to get on with it.

It started with some rummaging through my stash of Top End Timber bits, I found some that should do the job nicely.

Outdoor bench Wood Grass Plank Wood stain


So just what is this exotic timber you ask, well I think its a bearer from a pallet, anyway it looked nice so into the table saw it went, I simply just saw jointed it then sliced it up.

Table Wood Wood stain Plank Hardwood


After that into the thicknessser they went, then I layed them all out and decided which piece to use where.

Brown Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor


the sides of the box I wanted to bookmatch, (make that grain match) and put them aside and started on the lid.

Its a basic design with 30 deg angles to provide a raised section.

The lid frame I cut the ripped 30 deg angles with the table saw and the 30 deg 45 deg ends on the combination saw using a 30 deg jig to hold every so I could get very accurate results.

The two sections of the box lid top were glued together and 30 deg angles on all sides cut on the Table saw.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Plywood


Once I was happy with the dimensions I used my Kreg table to hold everthing in place for the glue up.

Wood Wall Hardwood Wood stain Gas


Now I am not sure how you actually clamp up something like this so I just taped it all together.

Blue Wood Rectangle Wood stain Line


Note: There were are no splines harmed in this part.

Wood Toy Wood stain Hardwood Recreation


Next will be the box frame itself and of course some of Big Als famous splines.
 

Attachments

#37 ·
Boxguy Big Al's SPLINE Box begins

This is a project I committed to "quite some time ago" and every time I post a box Big Al reminds me about it.

So after seeing Tooch present his Box I thought it best to get on with it.

It started with some rummaging through my stash of Top End Timber bits, I found some that should do the job nicely.

Outdoor bench Wood Grass Plank Wood stain


So just what is this exotic timber you ask, well I think its a bearer from a pallet, anyway it looked nice so into the table saw it went, I simply just saw jointed it then sliced it up.

Table Wood Wood stain Plank Hardwood


After that into the thicknessser they went, then I layed them all out and decided which piece to use where.

Brown Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor


the sides of the box I wanted to bookmatch, (make that grain match) and put them aside and started on the lid.

Its a basic design with 30 deg angles to provide a raised section.

The lid frame I cut the ripped 30 deg angles with the table saw and the 30 deg 45 deg ends on the combination saw using a 30 deg jig to hold every so I could get very accurate results.

The two sections of the box lid top were glued together and 30 deg angles on all sides cut on the Table saw.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Plywood


Once I was happy with the dimensions I used my Kreg table to hold everthing in place for the glue up.

Wood Wall Hardwood Wood stain Gas


Now I am not sure how you actually clamp up something like this so I just taped it all together.

Blue Wood Rectangle Wood stain Line


Note: There were are no splines harmed in this part.

Wood Toy Wood stain Hardwood Recreation


Next will be the box frame itself and of course some of Big Als famous splines.
Robert, this looks like a good start. Of course it is a missed opportunity. There looks to be room for splines somewhere in this process already. To put splines in a tray you have to use an open, one-sided jig instead of a trough. You can see the splines in an angled side in this project from 6 years ago. I don't think I ever posted that technique it was still early days for my LJ write-ups.

This is how I solved making tray sides with a strap clamp. Of course not many Lumber Jocks are into welding as well, but it worked for me. That Craig clamp is the berries. I haven't noticed you using it before. Nice job there. I don't think I have ever made a box starting with the top, but it makes sense in this case. Onward and upward to the splines. I am eager to see the next step and the splines you add. Keep boxing and keep posting.
 

Attachments

#43 ·
Boxguy Big Als Box frame commences

I started off the frame of the Splined Box No 1 in honour of Big Al's inspiring work.

I used a combination saw only this time … along with a few jigs you see in the pictures.

I marked out the timber to get the best bookmatch I could That meant using both pieces of the timber as I wanted the knot feature displayed on the front and back so I had to sacrifice the material reserved for base of the box to do this.

So a redesign on it will come later, not sure just what to do just yet.



The knot features are a bit hard to see but they are in the boards 2nd and 3rd from the right.

It wasnt without a series of problems.

1. Excessive splintering.

This was discovered on squaring the ends of the stock



I removed the blade and replaced it with a new one but the effect was no better on the second test cut



2. Saw not cutting at 45 degrees.

I did two test cuts and found the angles were way off, so out with the trusty Japanese Square and started checking the saw. I found the actual saw was touching on the vertical clamp post.
No end of checking corrected this problem, I needed thepost and clamp so the top section of the post got hacksawed off. Obviously never used it at 45 degrees before.
I also fitted a 45 deg ZCI in an effort to reduce splintering.



Have a look at the post and you can see the section I removed, next I then found the clamp handle touched the saw so as I had to use it albeit in a less than optimal position it stayed.

All a bit of a poor effort design wise on Ozito's behalf for the saw, and considering I paid big bucks (almost $100) for it I was a little surprised. (see note below)

I have to add a Note here:
I found out later the recommendation is to swap it to the other side, (RTFM + moon slap)
With those issues fixed I began sawing away.

I did a dry fit up and sat the frame on the lid to see if any adjustments were required.



All looked as close as I could get, so I then dry clamped it together to check again.

View 1.



View 2.



View 3.



View 4.



As it looked good enough to glue up I dismantled it all and glued it up and reclamped it, I found the Kreg Table was too hard to use so resorted to my framing clamps,I did use the flat surface though.

I am hoping the splintering will not be too noticable.
That's what you get, I guess for using rubbish tools and wood.



Thats all for today, I am now off looking for material for a replacement base now, and will continue on tomorrow.
 

Attachments

#44 ·
Boxguy Big Als Box frame commences

I started off the frame of the Splined Box No 1 in honour of Big Al's inspiring work.

I used a combination saw only this time … along with a few jigs you see in the pictures.

I marked out the timber to get the best bookmatch I could That meant using both pieces of the timber as I wanted the knot feature displayed on the front and back so I had to sacrifice the material reserved for base of the box to do this.

So a redesign on it will come later, not sure just what to do just yet.

Table Wood Wood stain Plank Hardwood


The knot features are a bit hard to see but they are in the boards 2nd and 3rd from the right.

It wasnt without a series of problems.

1. Excessive splintering.

This was discovered on squaring the ends of the stock

Wood Automotive design Automotive exterior Table Floor


I removed the blade and replaced it with a new one but the effect was no better on the second test cut

Wood Hood Automotive exterior Hardwood Gas


2. Saw not cutting at 45 degrees.

I did two test cuts and found the angles were way off, so out with the trusty Japanese Square and started checking the saw. I found the actual saw was touching on the vertical clamp post.
No end of checking corrected this problem, I needed thepost and clamp so the top section of the post got hacksawed off. Obviously never used it at 45 degrees before.
I also fitted a 45 deg ZCI in an effort to reduce splintering.

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Engineering Gas Machine tool


Have a look at the post and you can see the section I removed, next I then found the clamp handle touched the saw so as I had to use it albeit in a less than optimal position it stayed.

All a bit of a poor effort design wise on Ozito's behalf for the saw, and considering I paid big bucks (almost $100) for it I was a little surprised. (see note below)

I have to add a Note here:
I found out later the recommendation is to swap it to the other side, (RTFM + moon slap)
With those issues fixed I began sawing away.

I did a dry fit up and sat the frame on the lid to see if any adjustments were required.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Flooring Plank


All looked as close as I could get, so I then dry clamped it together to check again.

View 1.

Table Wood Engineering Hardwood Saw


View 2.

Wood Gas Grass Hardwood Wood stain


View 3.

Wood Hardwood Wood stain Plank Flooring


View 4.

Wood Flooring Floor Gas Hardwood


As it looked good enough to glue up I dismantled it all and glued it up and reclamped it, I found the Kreg Table was too hard to use so resorted to my framing clamps,I did use the flat surface though.

I am hoping the splintering will not be too noticable.
That's what you get, I guess for using rubbish tools and wood.

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Thats all for today, I am now off looking for material for a replacement base now, and will continue on tomorrow.
Rob, the suspense builds. I like the start. I would have used the band clamps to clamp this. The band clamps, if tightened enough sort of even out the corner joints. I have never made a box of this shape. What a challenge. Leave it up to you to do a wild box like this. I am impressed. Looks much like the coffin you once built for the back of your truck.

For other LJs, here is a blog on the band clamps, I know you have a set.

This is a blog on a jig to cut 45s while leaving the saw set at 90. It wouldn't be worth making the jig unless you were going to make several boxes.

Thanks for the mention. I am posting my latest box (of course it has splines) later. I built it in honor of the Hawaiian Volcano. Here's a preview.

Amber Orange Organism Fire Heat


Keep boxing and keep posting.
 

Attachments

#55 ·
Boxguy Big Al's Spline Box the spline work starts

Not a lot of progress today as I was busy doing less interesting chores.

Anyway I made a jig (of sorts) to cut the spline pockets,(I guess thats what you call them)
in the box frame.

Its a bit aveage but it did the job. I will have to check out what they really look like later if I continue to do splines.

Wood Table Rectangle Automotive exterior Hardwood


The corner of the frame sits in the jig at 45 deg and the saw blade passes under cutting the groove.

I didnt have any accurate vernier adjustment for the spline width so I just packed timber beside the frame to widen the cutout.

Wood Rectangle Outdoor furniture Table Wood stain


It was all a bit scary but it worked OK as long as you checked where your fingers were at/before power on.

With that done I set about making the actual splines, for them I used some NG Rosewood.

Some required a little hand sanding to produce a snug dry fit, but once that was done it was simply apply glue and push them in.

Handheld power drill Table Wood Drill Pneumatic tool


Initally I used some plastic spring clamps to hold them but I noticed they had a tendency to open one side of the spline so I took them off.

Pneumatic tool Handheld power drill Wood Hammer drill Drill


I did use a test piece to confirm depth and width before cutting the actual box.

A editing note post posting the blog.

Wood Building House Rectangle Plank


The Jig and Test pieces I made are not a real smart way to do the splines as the jig needs redesigning and the test pieces are a one off for the box, so unless you are making a set of them its time wasted, so although they worked there is a smarter way!

Boxguy has the correct method documented in a blog, (of which I didnt read until after the event.)

Wood Table Tool Kitchen utensil Wood stain


If you look to the left there is a small off cut with a couple of notchs in it, that was used for the depth, as I am assuming they do not penetrate the inside of the box..

Once they were completed this was the view from inside.

Rectangle Wood Wood stain Plank Hardwood


That wraps up the work for today.
 

Attachments

#56 ·
Boxguy Big Al's Spline Box the spline work starts

Not a lot of progress today as I was busy doing less interesting chores.

Anyway I made a jig (of sorts) to cut the spline pockets,(I guess thats what you call them)
in the box frame.

Its a bit aveage but it did the job. I will have to check out what they really look like later if I continue to do splines.

Wood Table Rectangle Automotive exterior Hardwood


The corner of the frame sits in the jig at 45 deg and the saw blade passes under cutting the groove.

I didnt have any accurate vernier adjustment for the spline width so I just packed timber beside the frame to widen the cutout.

Wood Rectangle Outdoor furniture Table Wood stain


It was all a bit scary but it worked OK as long as you checked where your fingers were at/before power on.

With that done I set about making the actual splines, for them I used some NG Rosewood.

Some required a little hand sanding to produce a snug dry fit, but once that was done it was simply apply glue and push them in.

Handheld power drill Table Wood Drill Pneumatic tool


Initally I used some plastic spring clamps to hold them but I noticed they had a tendency to open one side of the spline so I took them off.

Pneumatic tool Handheld power drill Wood Hammer drill Drill


I did use a test piece to confirm depth and width before cutting the actual box.

A editing note post posting the blog.

Wood Building House Rectangle Plank


The Jig and Test pieces I made are not a real smart way to do the splines as the jig needs redesigning and the test pieces are a one off for the box, so unless you are making a set of them its time wasted, so although they worked there is a smarter way!

Boxguy has the correct method documented in a blog, (of which I didnt read until after the event.)

Wood Table Tool Kitchen utensil Wood stain


If you look to the left there is a small off cut with a couple of notchs in it, that was used for the depth, as I am assuming they do not penetrate the inside of the box..

Once they were completed this was the view from inside.

Rectangle Wood Wood stain Plank Hardwood


That wraps up the work for today.
Little by little… slow n Easy… best way to go…

Thank you…
 

Attachments

#59 ·
Boxguy Big Al's Spline Box Sanding hinges and polishing

Another day of not producing too much exciting.

Sanded the components to 320 G

Wood Rectangle Outdoor furniture Table Outdoor bench


Deliberated over which hinges I could use, I wanted concealed barrel type but was concerned the top section would encroach on the sloping side so I decided on a simple brass set.

Table Wood Wood stain Hardwood Gas


Dithered about trying to decide on a suitable base, (still working on it)
May end up with a cradle type setup.

Decided to do some initial finish polishing mainly to check what sort of a result I would get. Again I did a test run on a piece of scrap first..

That kept me busy for a while and then I decided to call it quits and packed up for the day.

Wood Table Rectangle Hardwood Wood stain
 

Attachments

#60 ·
Boxguy Big Al's Spline Box Sanding hinges and polishing

Another day of not producing too much exciting.

Sanded the components to 320 G

Wood Rectangle Outdoor furniture Table Outdoor bench


Deliberated over which hinges I could use, I wanted concealed barrel type but was concerned the top section would encroach on the sloping side so I decided on a simple brass set.

Table Wood Wood stain Hardwood Gas


Dithered about trying to decide on a suitable base, (still working on it)
May end up with a cradle type setup.

Decided to do some initial finish polishing mainly to check what sort of a result I would get. Again I did a test run on a piece of scrap first..

That kept me busy for a while and then I decided to call it quits and packed up for the day.

Wood Table Rectangle Hardwood Wood stain
Rob, I really like the shape of this box. It is very creative. I'll bet it really pops when you put that first coat of finish on it. It has been fun to watch you build this. Our techniques are very different.

Since you put splines in both the top and bottom, it is obvious that your case of spline fever has not abated. It is too late for you, but we are working on a vaccine it is glue based and we have discovered that many people are allergic to glue. It seems they tried to eat the school paste in first grade and developed antigens. So, we are working out the problems.
 

Attachments

#65 ·
Boxguy Big Al's Spline Box Making the base and finishing components

OK I got a wriggle on and made the base, sanded and polished everything steel wool prepped the surfaces and appliled the first coat of finish.

The base:

I could not find any similar material so used another piece of some hardwood.

Wood Rectangle Composite material Gas Wood stain


After thinking how I could make the base quickly and efficently I decided to do everything with the saw.

Step 1.
Cut the rebates.
Wood Plant Gas Wood stain Hardwood


Step 2.
Finish the rebates.
Wood Plant Road surface Shade Gas


Step 3.
Split the frames
Wood Gas Tints and shades Automotive exterior Flooring


Step 4.
Cut the 30 deg angle to match the lid. (no suitable picture)
Step 5.
Cut everything to fit
Wood Rectangle Table Outdoor furniture Flooring


Step 6.
The glue up
Wood Floor Flooring Door Rectangle


So as not to glue the base onto the table and possibly break the joints upon removal I used some spare cash I had lying around to prevent it

Wood Rectangle Art Creative arts Hardwood


Step 7.
Cutting the feet in and making a ply base
Wood Rectangle Flooring Machine tool Composite material


Then it was onto the obligatory sanding and polishing, followed a steel wool rub and then the first coat of finish.

Glasses Hat Table Sunglasses Cap


Wood Grass Outdoor furniture Groundcover Wood stain


All that there is left to do now is the final assembly and finishing, the fitting of the hinges and catches, of which I shall not bore you with any more and hence that ends the blog, next time you see Boxguys Spline Box it will be posted as a project.

In closing I must thank all the LJs that took the time to watch and Big Al for his construction posts assisting me in my challenge.

Lesson learned: Do not build a box this way again!
 

Attachments

#66 ·
Boxguy Big Al's Spline Box Making the base and finishing components

OK I got a wriggle on and made the base, sanded and polished everything steel wool prepped the surfaces and appliled the first coat of finish.

The base:

I could not find any similar material so used another piece of some hardwood.

Wood Rectangle Composite material Gas Wood stain


After thinking how I could make the base quickly and efficently I decided to do everything with the saw.

Step 1.
Cut the rebates.
Wood Plant Gas Wood stain Hardwood


Step 2.
Finish the rebates.
Wood Plant Road surface Shade Gas


Step 3.
Split the frames
Wood Gas Tints and shades Automotive exterior Flooring


Step 4.
Cut the 30 deg angle to match the lid. (no suitable picture)
Step 5.
Cut everything to fit
Wood Rectangle Table Outdoor furniture Flooring


Step 6.
The glue up
Wood Floor Flooring Door Rectangle


So as not to glue the base onto the table and possibly break the joints upon removal I used some spare cash I had lying around to prevent it

Wood Rectangle Art Creative arts Hardwood


Step 7.
Cutting the feet in and making a ply base
Wood Rectangle Flooring Machine tool Composite material


Then it was onto the obligatory sanding and polishing, followed a steel wool rub and then the first coat of finish.

Glasses Hat Table Sunglasses Cap


Wood Grass Outdoor furniture Groundcover Wood stain


All that there is left to do now is the final assembly and finishing, the fitting of the hinges and catches, of which I shall not bore you with any more and hence that ends the blog, next time you see Boxguys Spline Box it will be posted as a project.

In closing I must thank all the LJs that took the time to watch and Big Al for his construction posts assisting me in my challenge.

Lesson learned: Do not build a box this way again!
Rob, you have pulled off another fabulous creation. I am eager to see it as a final project. I have really enjoyed seeing how you work and solve problems. Great job as always. Keep up the good work. Splines don't have to be this challenging. Keep boxing and keep posting.
 

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