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cypress slab table

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Blog entry by robjeffking posted 09-10-2012 04:47 AM 1759 reads 0 times favorited 10 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I really don’t enjoy finishing my projects. I usually end up with an average finish and doing damage control during the process. My cypress slab table looks great I’m looking to do a dark finish almost a deep chocolate finish. I have a test piece finished with minwax stain&poly 1 step.

The cypress is really a light color with a dark detailed streak down the middle that I want to keep as its personality. Any ideas what kind of oil or any other finish you would recommend? The glass shop is making a top that will match the contoured slab so protecting the top should open up all options for any finish.



10 comments so far

View camps764's profile

camps764

794 posts in 1013 days


#1 posted 09-10-2012 11:54 AM

Maybe the “Maloof” hand rubbed oil finish? From what I’ve read, it is some kind of oil, bee’s wax and turpentine concoction.

It’s supposed to add quite a bit of warmth and depth to the finish. I think I’ll be using it for my next walnut slab hall table.

Otherwise, I love using a wipe on polyurethane, a little Poly, a little mineral spirits, and then wipe on with a rag. It takes a while to build coats, but I love the end result. It’s also a very user friendly finish. The mineral spirits help the Poly self level.

Not much help with recommendations for the stain process, I’ve never had much luck using stains. Only recommendation I can give is to ask around about how blotchy cypress gets with stain…you may need to use some kind of sanding sealer to get an even finish.

I’ll be following this project to see how you end up finishing it, I think it’s a cool looking table. Good luck!

-- Steve. Visit my website http://www.campbellwoodworking.com

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robjeffking

26 posts in 759 days


#2 posted 09-10-2012 12:27 PM

Mineral spirits then clear poly repeating in this order?

View HerbC's profile

HerbC

1166 posts in 1513 days


#3 posted 09-10-2012 08:24 PM

Rob,

Camps means a mixture of poly and mineral spirits. The mineral spirits are mixed with the poly to thin the poly. Use very thin coats, wiped on eavenly with a soft clean cloth (old t-shirt works well). Use many coats to build the finish to the depth you want in the finished product.

Herb

-- Herb, Florida - Here's why I close most messages with "Be Careful!" http://lumberjocks.com/HerbC/blog/17090

View camps764's profile

camps764

794 posts in 1013 days


#4 posted 09-11-2012 01:01 AM

HerbC is right on the money, sorry about that. For a first coat I typically use about 1 part Polyurethane to .5 Mineral Spirits. E.G. 1 cup Poly to 1/2 cup Mineral Spirits. Wipe on like Herb described, then let dry about 12 hours or so. Lightly sand with 0000 Steel wool to knock down and nibs, but don’t sand through the finish.

Another coat, let it dry about the same amount of time, then sand again.

For the third coat I usually use less Mineral spirits, to get a slightly thicker consistency. Probably 1 part poly to .25 parts mineral spirits. Wipe on the same way, let it dry, then sand.

I finish with a final coat using the same mixture, 1 to .25, let it dry, give it a light sand, and then i’ll go over it with a paste wax.

You can certainly use more coats to build up a heavier finish, but that was the process I followed for the dining room table in my projects, and the finish has held up pretty well to normal wear and tear for the last 9 months or so.

If you watch the most recent wood whisperer video he finishes a stool using a slightly different method that looks great as well.

-- Steve. Visit my website http://www.campbellwoodworking.com

View chrisstef's profile

chrisstef

10836 posts in 1660 days


#5 posted 09-11-2012 01:10 AM

I used general finishes dye stain on a cypress bench i built and it worked very well. The cypress did suck up a ton of finish, i must have put on 10 coats of wipe on poly after the dye stain.

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

View robjeffking's profile

robjeffking

26 posts in 759 days


#6 posted 09-11-2012 01:22 AM

Thanks for all the tips I’ve been looking to do finshes without the hassle of staining. I did some experimenting
This morning will good results. I wiped on some mineral spirits to clog up the wood for a even finish then applied
A light coat of antique walnut stain and t turned out great but I’m going to do several more tests before I stain
The table. I’ll post back pics as soon its completed.

View robjeffking's profile

robjeffking

26 posts in 759 days


#7 posted 09-15-2012 07:46 PM

I decided to use a wipe on dansh oil and after its has cured for 3 days will put 2 coats of wipe on poly. Table
Looks fantastic the oil is by far the easiest most forgiving finish I have ever used. It now will be my main process
For finishing my projects. Thanks for all the help.

View camps764's profile

camps764

794 posts in 1013 days


#8 posted 09-15-2012 09:07 PM

Looks great! Glad to hear you picked a finish you are happy with. I think base is REALLY cool. I like the short arm in contrast with the other 3.

-- Steve. Visit my website http://www.campbellwoodworking.com

View robjeffking's profile

robjeffking

26 posts in 759 days


#9 posted 09-15-2012 10:27 PM

The length of the arms were dictated by the top The radical x base configuration really gives the table
Its own personality that matches the unsymmetrical top. The only down side of the short armed
Base is it wobbles on a uneven floor but the adhesive felt pads should solve that issue.

View camps764's profile

camps764

794 posts in 1013 days


#10 posted 09-28-2012 12:52 PM

I see exactly what you mean. I think this is a great example of letting the piece of wood dictate the construction.

-- Steve. Visit my website http://www.campbellwoodworking.com

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