I started stripping the canoe a couple months ago but ran into a bit of frustration when putting in a walnut accent strip. The walnut machined a little differently than the cedar when I ran the strips over the router table to put the bead and cove edges on them. I had to walk away from the project for a while.
I came back to it recently and after fiddling with the strips above the walnut strips it has been easy going since. It’s very satisfying to see the boat taking shape. A few things I’d do differently if I build another canoe after this one. The lumber I used for the strips was S4S which made the strips not as wide as most people use. I have had to run the staples parallel to the strips so I don’t cause the cove edge to blow out on the inside of the strips. I also didn’t plane the boards down to the same size before cutting the strips since they were thinner than 3/4” which has caused an occasional gap here and there. I think the boat will still look great once it’s filled and sanded but I’d start with thicker boards and plane them all down to the exact same thickness. Third I’d use full length boards. When I started stripping I was scarphing(cutting at a bevel) the butts of the boards where they met but found it was easier and tends to look better just cutting the ends square and butting them together.
I’m getting to the bilge and there is a lot of twist from the stem to the center of the boat. I have had an easy time getting the boards to twist and sit flat against the stems and all the forms. A lot of people use clamps and jigs along with extra staples at this point to get the strips to sit correctly but I have only had to use an extra staple here and there between the forms. I think my strips not being as wide might be making the turn easier to strip.
Pretty soon I’ll be pulling a ton of staples and then comes a lot of planing and sanding. I’ll post some more updates on finishing the bottom of the hull.
-- Sawdust tastes mighty fine! Doane, Seattle WA, http://www.boatstrips.com