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Veneering plywood with thick "veneer". What glue to use.

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Blog entry by riooso posted 807 days ago 1760 reads 0 times favorited 5 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I would appreciate some advice putting veneer on 1/2” plywood. I wish to build some shelves using some shop made “veneer”. I have some home grown black walnut I will be using in the project. I made a trial shelf in which I used 1/4” veneer. I only veneered one side of a piece of 1/2” birch plywood using standard Titebond white glue but the 24” X 16” board cupped a fair amount. It may be that if I had done both sides that I would not have had this problem but I was wondering what glue might be better to use. The thinnest “veneer” that I will be using will be 1/8” so that I have plenty of thickness to work with. I need the shelf to be a stand alone piece which will be stable. I am planning on using tongue and groove solid walnut around the shelves as a finish treatment.

Sorry to be so long winded! I would really appreciate some input. This one of the final stumbling block that I need to resolve before I start the work.

Thanks,
Richard



5 comments so far

View BritBoxmaker's profile

BritBoxmaker

4354 posts in 1661 days


#1 posted 807 days ago

Three things basically

1. Veneer both sides.

2. Align veneer grain direction to cross ply outer skin grain direction.

3. Any wood glue should do.

-- Martyn -- Boxologist, Pattern Juggler and Candyman of the visually challenging. http://www.theartofboxes.com

View shipwright's profile

shipwright

4899 posts in 1423 days


#2 posted 807 days ago

You’re likely OK indoors but 1/4” is getting a little thick for veneer.
On teak overlay decks on boats, the teak is usually kept under 1/4”, often 1/8” because swelling and shrinking will create real problems.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees. http://prmdesigns.com/

View riooso's profile

riooso

38 posts in 1271 days


#3 posted 807 days ago

Thanks for the tips guys. I know that 1/4” is a little thick but as I get better at slicing with the band saw I will progressively make it thinner although I know that if I go to thin that I will start getting into clamping problems. I now use a cold press method that works very well and I would think that the thinner the veneer the more problems will arise.

Thanks again,
R

View JuniorJoiner's profile

JuniorJoiner

444 posts in 2065 days


#4 posted 807 days ago

I use unibond 800 when making a substrate or applying marquetry to it. makes it very rigid.
it may be a good idea to pass your veneers through a planer on a sled to get them all uniform.
best regards

-- Junior -Quality is never an accident-it is the reward for the effort involved.

View shipwright's profile

shipwright

4899 posts in 1423 days


#5 posted 806 days ago

Actually clamping can become easier as the veneer gets thinner. When you use hot hide glue and a veneer hammer, you don’t need to clamp at all.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees. http://prmdesigns.com/

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