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DIY Aluminum Extrusion Fence #2: It's On! now for the hard part...

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Blog entry by rhybeka posted 07-04-2015 08:07 PM 1568 reads 0 times favorited 18 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 1: My journey towards better accuracy Part 2 of DIY Aluminum Extrusion Fence series Part 3: Last steps - brake installation and other stuff... »

Sorry all, kinda forgot I’d started a blog on this process! Well, I can give you the short version to catch everybody up.
I ordered the parts and they sat in my shop for about six months until I was able to actually open them up and start trying to figure out how they would all end up on my saw. I found out the 3/4” bolts that Hutch used on his design were too short for my saw, and 1” were too long. I trimmed the 1” down to 7/8” and they work pretty well.

It’s a pretty tight fit as of right now and I’m trying to figure out how to get it to slide a bit easier. I’m not looking for a greased pig, but having to pound on it with a rubber mallet I’m sure isn’t doing my accuracy much good. here’s what it looks like on. I still have to figure out how to install the ‘brake’ piece.

The holes on my table saw and wings are below. I’m thinking about taking out the bolts on the wings and just having it bolted to the saw body itself. Still thinking on that.

-- Beka/Becky - aspiring jill of all trades, still learning to not read the directions.



18 comments so far

View Arlin Eastman's profile

Arlin Eastman

3553 posts in 2024 days


#1 posted 07-04-2015 09:58 PM

That looks like some really good stuff and could be used for a lot of things. :)

Where did you buy it at?

-- Please help me help other Vets click..> http://www.gofundme.com/m1abko.....It is always the right time, to do the right thing.

View rhybeka's profile

rhybeka

2671 posts in 2584 days


#2 posted 07-05-2015 12:17 AM

Hi Arlin! Got it on an eBay shop called 80/20 garage sale – or something along those lines – just google 80/20 store and it should come up. They sell all kinds of aluminum extrusion parts!

Got frustrated and took the wings off to give it a go

-- Beka/Becky - aspiring jill of all trades, still learning to not read the directions.

View tyvekboy's profile

tyvekboy

1337 posts in 2476 days


#3 posted 07-05-2015 12:24 AM

If it’s binding, then something is not right. That fence should move easily and smoothly.

I’m not familiar with your set up but from looking at the pictures, I’m guessing that you’ll need to use some shims once you find out whats making it bind.

I collect those gift cards at Wal-Mart or McDonalds and use them for all kinds of things in my shop … They make great shims. They are 1/32 inch thick. If that’s too thick, I use old business cards for shims.

Good luck at getting it to slide easier.

-- Tyvekboy -- Marietta, GA ………….. one can never be too organized

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

14571 posts in 2146 days


#4 posted 07-05-2015 01:05 AM

Afraid I can’t help much with this set-up, as mine is a little bit …different.

Craftsman #113.xxx Oem fence, but, I used angle iron for the fence to slide on.

However, while this angle iron is low enough for the mitre gauge bar to just barely slid over, it is high enough that there is a slight gap under the fence. 5mm plywood would just slide under it. Fence has to slide on the rails, not the saw’s top surface. Set it up so you will have that 1/32” or so under the fence.

I’d leave the rails alone, and add a shim between the fence and the fence supports that ride on the rails. Try that, if there is a way to shim in those two areas, front and back?

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View rhybeka's profile

rhybeka

2671 posts in 2584 days


#5 posted 07-05-2015 01:30 AM

Thanks Ty! Thanks Bandit! Guess I’m on a hunt for shim material. I think I’ve got some old gift cards or CC’s somewhere around here.

@Bandit I think? I should at least be able to set shims between the rails and the bolts and then tighten the bolts. It’s a tight fit for even my ‘smaller’ hands. If you need more rails for that saw, you’re welcome to my old ones :D

-- Beka/Becky - aspiring jill of all trades, still learning to not read the directions.

View firefighterontheside's profile

firefighterontheside

13466 posts in 1319 days


#6 posted 07-05-2015 01:04 PM

Beka, if you are having issues because the holes in your table or wings are not in the right place, drill new holes where they need to be. I’ve never used that 80/20. Are the nuts going in the rail or are the bolt heads sliding into the rail with the nuts on the underside of the table. I don’t think I would like those slotted holes on the table anyway.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

View rhybeka's profile

rhybeka

2671 posts in 2584 days


#7 posted 07-05-2015 11:09 PM

The slots do alright when it’s just mounted to the table saw. A bit of a pain to get aligned. I can drill holes in the wings through the thinner parts, but for now I removed them to work on getting the table to fit and in working order. not so much worried about the wings if I can get the rest working hopefully the wings will be easy(ier).

The bolts come through from the TS side with a washer and are fitted into a piece of hardware that slides into the rail – that black thing in the hole pic is what is – you just turn it so it goes into the slot on the extrusion.

Meant to post this yesterday but something was being wonky – not sure if you can see it but the fence extrusion piece is higher on the right side than the left so something on the rail extrusion needs adjusted/shimmed

-- Beka/Becky - aspiring jill of all trades, still learning to not read the directions.

View firefighterontheside's profile

firefighterontheside

13466 posts in 1319 days


#8 posted 07-05-2015 11:32 PM

Ah, I see. Makes more sense now.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

14571 posts in 2146 days


#9 posted 07-06-2015 08:10 AM

I had a set of taps made for this sort of rail. we used this stuff a lot where i worked. Just drill a hole where you need one, matched to whichever metric tap there is. Thread the drilled hole, and add a bolt.

Maybe add a short spacer, big enough to allow the bolts to go through and into the rail? Maybe get a tap and drill set that matches the bolts you want to use.

If you look at that rail I had on mine, you will see a spacer between the saw and the rail, allows the fence to slideby then, as they are lower than the top of the rail….just a thought…

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View rhybeka's profile

rhybeka

2671 posts in 2584 days


#10 posted 07-06-2015 03:31 PM

Hmmm now that you say that I do remember the plastic spacers that were behind the rail. I may be able to do something of the like it’ll just be more interesting since I’ll have to bridge the part of the rail where the bolts slide through. I’ve got some GC’s I can cut up as shims so I think I’ll start there. Well, lunch first. :) Let ya’ll know how it goes!

-- Beka/Becky - aspiring jill of all trades, still learning to not read the directions.

View rhybeka's profile

rhybeka

2671 posts in 2584 days


#11 posted 07-06-2015 08:03 PM

Well, I tried and failed. I think it’s more than just needing shimmed. I’m thinking Bill’s suggestion about drilling holes may at least save my sanity because the bolts keep moving when I’m trying to tighten them down. Trying to figure out where to put the holes may be above my brain capacity though.

The space I have to put the hole is 1.5 inches wide. I need to land about 1/8 of an inch below the miter slot to keep it even with the front and allow any miter gauges to slide through.

The extrusion itself is only 1.5 inches wide, with the ‘hole’ being .5 away from either side

and I’ve got about 9 1/4 inches to put holes in (except where there’s already holes)

-- Beka/Becky - aspiring jill of all trades, still learning to not read the directions.

View rhybeka's profile

rhybeka

2671 posts in 2584 days


#12 posted 07-06-2015 09:30 PM

So after mulling it over… I believe I’ll be putting holes at the 3 in and the 8 in marks about an inch up on the TS which should give me the 1/8” I need below the miter slot.

-- Beka/Becky - aspiring jill of all trades, still learning to not read the directions.

View firefighterontheside's profile

firefighterontheside

13466 posts in 1319 days


#13 posted 07-06-2015 10:28 PM

An inch up or an inch down?
I think that will help a lot with your sanity. You can get it on there and have it be loose instead of it constantly sliding out of the slotted holes like I’m imagining.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

View rhybeka's profile

rhybeka

2671 posts in 2584 days


#14 posted 07-07-2015 11:07 AM

an inch up I think, Bill. :)
Bandit gave me the idea of trying lock washers as well…. not sure if I’m going to do that or just bite the bullet and drill the holes.

-- Beka/Becky - aspiring jill of all trades, still learning to not read the directions.

View rhybeka's profile

rhybeka

2671 posts in 2584 days


#15 posted 07-08-2015 12:06 AM

It works! /happydance/ well as far as my tests have been it works – I had to come in because of the rain pouring water into my shop because the garage door was open.

So I put two holes in centered about 3/4” up from the bottom (5/16” so they fit the bolt) shimmed the bottom since it appears when the bolts are tightened, the bottom is pulled in which is what makes it unlevel, and everything slides MUCH easier than it did. downfall may be that it’s a smidge high so I need to check the miter slots and make sure something will still slide decently. If that’s all good, i’ll drill and shim the other side so I can get to work on the blade guard. :D

-- Beka/Becky - aspiring jill of all trades, still learning to not read the directions.

showing 1 through 15 of 18 comments

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