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One Entertainment Center to Rule Them All #1: The stuff of dreams - planning

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Blog entry by rhybeka posted 12-27-2014 01:25 PM 1625 reads 0 times favorited 12 comments Add to Favorites Watch
no previous part Part 1 of One Entertainment Center to Rule Them All series Part 2: Design change! »

just leaving this as a placeholder and an idea rumination space. I think I’ve got the majority of the details planned out, and may even have some overkill – better safe than sorry, no? I’ve accrued a few more electronics over the past few years and am in need of a ‘larger’ or at least differently organized entertainment center in ‘the cave’. Below is the concept drawing I have put together in sketchup.

The first postings in this blog will be about the tall unit on the right. I need that one most/first. I have gaming systems behind the TV and up in window wells that need a proper home. So far, the measurements are : 6ft tall by 20in wide x 20 in deep. The case will be ply (baltic birch I think – or possibly oak?) , the shelves will be poplar, and the case/ shelf frames will be walnut. I’m still a new woodworker and want something that will look nice and couldn’t be screwed up too badly. Also, I wanted a light and dark contrast and to work with some wood I haven’t used before and something still fairly easy to finish :)

For now, I’ve got 120mm case fans behind each shelf, and the plan is to have one/several thermal temp meters so when the case reaches a specific temp, the fans will kick on and help to circulate the air in/out of the case. Still debating if I need that many and the positioning of them. Which brings us to the last debate of if I should put a door on it or not. I’d like to but I don’t need my electronics overheating.

Any thoughts, constructive criticism, ideas, etc. welcome :)

-- Beka/Becky - aspiring jill of all trades, still learning to not read the directions.



12 comments so far

View boxcarmarty's profile

boxcarmarty

13527 posts in 1828 days


#1 posted 12-27-2014 02:34 PM

Looks basically simple and should be a good build. You’ll need holes in the back to run your power cords and I think a couple of those in each compartment would be sufficient for proper air flow and the case fans wouldn’t be needed…..

-- My mind is like lighting, one brilliant flash, then its gone.....

View boxcarmarty's profile

boxcarmarty

13527 posts in 1828 days


#2 posted 12-27-2014 03:37 PM

Are your shelves held in by cleats, dados, or shelf pins???

-- My mind is like lighting, one brilliant flash, then its gone.....

View DIYaholic's profile

DIYaholic

19180 posts in 2143 days


#3 posted 12-27-2014 04:05 PM


Are your shelves held in by cleats, dados, or shelf pins???

- boxcarmarty

Uhhh Marty…. That is a SketchUp model…. the shelves are held up digitally!!! Duh!!!

Looks like a good plan, Beka.

I can’t really help with the ventilation question….
However, glass doors would help eliminate a lot of dusting….
That is IF you are prone to tidyness!!!

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procrastination a bad thing?

View firefighterontheside's profile

firefighterontheside

13529 posts in 1324 days


#4 posted 12-27-2014 04:21 PM

My thought are. Why not make the shelves out of whatever plywood you use for the case and use a piece of walnut for the shelf fronts. Usually I just glue and shoot them on with small brads. If you don’t want the nails you could glue and clamp them. I like to drill 1/4” holes every one or two inches for shelf pins for the adjustable shelves. Also I won’t go over four feet without a fixed shelf. I might suggest a fixed shelf that lines up with the top of the other piece. I think the fans are overkill, but if you insist put one at the bottom that will ventilate all pieces. I usually make my component shelves short of the back to make room for cords or cut holes to pass cords thru. Doors often lead to problems with remotes working. If you want doors, use clear glass. Just my opinions from making quite a lot of similar pieces.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

View Bogeyguy's profile

Bogeyguy

548 posts in 1536 days


#5 posted 12-27-2014 04:21 PM

If your not putting doors or backs on I don’t think you’ll need fans. Myself, I prefer enclosing the unit to prevent dust migration. Then you would want to use the fans. Now is the time to incorporate the fans so you get air flow/circulation to all your components. The amp will produce most of the heat.

-- Art, Pittsburgh.

View Monte Pittman's profile

Monte Pittman

22052 posts in 1806 days


#6 posted 12-27-2014 06:41 PM

Airflow is essential to electronics. The door thing is a personal choice. Some people simply like things out of sight.

-- Mother Nature created it, I just assemble it.

View NoThanks's profile

NoThanks

798 posts in 997 days


#7 posted 12-27-2014 08:08 PM

In my Opinion the purpose of the fans is to bring cool air in and expel the hot air. (and create air flow)
Since hot air rises I would put a vent/grill at the top of the unit and the fans somewhere low so that they can bring in the fresh/cool air and force the hot air out.
Doors would not be an issue if you have a way to get the hot air out.

-- Because I'm gone, that's why!

View rhybeka's profile

rhybeka

2683 posts in 2589 days


#8 posted 12-28-2014 12:33 AM

I’m leaning towards there being a front door – to keep the dust bunnies and dog hair at bay :p the room is usually pretty clean only because I haven’t been down here much. Marty makes a good point – I hadn’t even remembered the hole for plugs and such. :D duh! Most if not all of the HDMI cables will run to the receiver, then one from the receiver will run to the TV.

@Marty – full extension drawer slides are what the shelves are mounted to :)

@Bill Thanks for the input! I think I did poplar because it’s cheaper than buying another sheet of ply tbh. I’d have to go look at my notes. That and I’m a bit tired of working with ply atm. That might change though! Good idea on leaving the shelves short- I don’t think i need them to be 20 in deep :)

-- Beka/Becky - aspiring jill of all trades, still learning to not read the directions.

View firefighterontheside's profile

firefighterontheside

13529 posts in 1324 days


#9 posted 12-28-2014 04:02 AM

I hear ya on the tired of plywood and wanting to use new things. Have fun with it.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

View boxcarmarty's profile

boxcarmarty

13527 posts in 1828 days


#10 posted 12-28-2014 01:55 PM

If all shelves in the side cabinet is on drawer glides, and you are considering glass doors, I would suggest a 1 1/2 or 2 inch face frame…..

-- My mind is like lighting, one brilliant flash, then its gone.....

View rhybeka's profile

rhybeka

2683 posts in 2589 days


#11 posted 12-28-2014 08:05 PM

nod Ok – so it sounds I need to add a 2 in face frame into the drawing – was trying to get away with coloring the fronts maple for now. Not much gets past you guys! ;) I did drop the shelves from 20 in to 18 wide to account for cords. I was hoping the full extension drawer fronts would help cords as well.

Think I wan to do hidden hinges or something. I’ll have to mull that one over as well.
Thinking about mounting the power strip to the back of the case for convenience. Thoughts?

-- Beka/Becky - aspiring jill of all trades, still learning to not read the directions.

View boxcarmarty's profile

boxcarmarty

13527 posts in 1828 days


#12 posted 12-29-2014 12:42 AM

Don’t be too quick to nix the hidden hinges. Use your 2 inch stock for your door frames as well, insert your glass, and use a European style or otherwise known as a compact overlay hinge as shown in the pic. I prefer a 1/2 inch overlay with most of my builds…..

-- My mind is like lighting, one brilliant flash, then its gone.....

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