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Review of TS2000 full kerf 40-tooth blade

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Review by oldbrowndog posted 07-14-2017 11:23 PM 2637 views 2 times favorited 10 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Review of TS2000 full kerf 40-tooth blade Review of TS2000 full kerf 40-tooth blade Review of TS2000 full kerf 40-tooth blade Click the pictures to enlarge them

I recently upgraded the saw blade on my table saw to the 40-tooth TS2000 full kerf blade from Ridge Carbide. The paragraphs below share my detailed review of this blade, but the TL;DR version is that it’s an excellent blade particularly for box joints because it has 8 raker teeth. This was the deciding factor for me in purchasing the TS2000 over the Forrest WWII. I later found out that there is an ATBR version of the WWII, but it sells for almost double what I paid for the TS2000. It was on sale at Woodpeckers when I bought it, so the total was just under $95 including tax & shipping, which for me was an excellent value.

The blade came triple-packaged in a plastic bag, inner cardboard box closed with Velcro, and an outer cardboard box sealed with packing tape. The blade was coated in that machine oil that covers all new cast iron tools from the factory – seems overly cautious for a steel plate, but it was no big deal. A quick wipe down with WD-40 took care of it. The carbide teeth are big – way bigger than those on the Sawstop 40-tooth combination blade that came with my saw, 0.375” to 0.210”. This is a full kerf blade, so the width of the raker tooth was 0.123”. I measured the plate thickness at an even 0.100”, compared to 0.085” on the stock blade. The diameter of the TS2000 was greater as well – I had to adjust downward the brake cartridge by about 0.050” to reach the proper clearance. I’ve also used other cheap blades from Dewalt, Freud, and Irwin, but obviously the TS2000 is in a different class.


(left) sawstop combination blade, the cheap one that comes the saw (right) TS2000

I installed the blade on my Sawstop Contractor saw, which is the 1.75 HP model with the motor hanging off the back. I thought that I would have to adjust the riving knife to compensate for the wider kerf, but after measuring it as best I could, there was only about 0.005” gap from the outer edge of the bevel tooth to the surface of the knife. This must mean that the riving knife is positioned closer to the right side (open side) of the arbor. To measure runout on the plate, I zeroed my dial indicator at the “Ridge Carbide” label, and then rotated the blade by hand from 0, 90, 180, 270, 360 degrees. Runout never exceeded -0.001” deflection from where I marked the zero, and since the noise in my measurements is at least ½ a thou, this thing is about as flat as I can measure! Since I don’t have a good way to independently measure how true the arbor is, the remaining deviation could be from either source.


measuring flatness of the plate

Performance: This is only a 1 ¾ HP saw, so with a full kerf combination blade I’m not trying to rip 12/4 hardwood in a single pass. Even so, with the TS2000 I had no trouble maintaining a constant speed ripping 8/4 spruce and maple, leaving a clean flat cut with no saw marks and no burning. Cross cutting the same woods is no problem – it leaves crosscut face that is glassy smooth to the touch. I say no saw marks, but I can see some saw marks under glancing angle illumination from a coherent light source. My real purpose for this blade was to make box joints easier. About a year ago I built a simple screw-advance box joint jig that slides easily onto my crosscut sled, using elements shamelessly pilfered from many of the designs found online. I first widened the kerf on my crosscut sled, and then tried out the box joint jig on some 3/4 maple. The kerf for this blade measured 0.127 + 0.001 after 5 measurements, which worked perfectly if you don’t wait around for the glue to soak in. My 1/8 and 1/4 inch box joints are tight and very consistent, far better than I could do by messing around with the 3/32 blade. If I look really carefully, I can still see the marks from the bevel teeth, but only in cross section. After assembling the joint the marks are invisible.


Some scrap maple that I happened to have lying around that I previously cut with the Sawstop blade, (top). (bottom) TS2000

Complaints: (1) The blade ‘sings’. There is a noticeable high pitched tone when the saw is spun up to cruising speed, and I think it’s at the same frequency that occurs if you tap the side of the plate and let it ring. Not really a big deal, since you ought to be wearing ear protection anyway, but I think the ringing is louder with this blade than with my old Sawstop blade. (2) Even when brand new from the vendor, there was a wear mark at about mid-radius all the way around the blade, creating a circle that is visible in one of the pictures above. Maybe this mark is from tensioning the plate? It seemed strange for a brand-new blade to have this, but in any event, I think it’s purely a cosmetic ‘feature.’

Overall: 5/5. I would recommend this blade to anyone who wants a high-end full kerf blade. I’ll update this review in a year or so when I have a chance to try out the sharpening service. Cheers all!




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oldbrowndog

3 posts in 134 days



10 comments so far

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WhoMe

1564 posts in 3060 days


#1 posted 07-15-2017 01:16 AM

Niece to hear about other quality blades. Thanks for the review.
And the blades from saw stop leave a lot to be desired. I’m betting a fresh diablo blade cuts better than the ss blade.
Mine is still in its factory plastic. I may pull the ss blade out if I ever cut some used concrete forming boards or something…

-- I'm not clumsy.. It's just the floor hates me, the tables and chairs are bullies, the wall gets in the way AAANNNDDD table saws BITE my fingers!!!.. - Mike -

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Rick_M

10490 posts in 2196 days


#2 posted 07-15-2017 04:35 AM

These blades have a good reputation. About the “singing”, it can become a big deal even with hearing protection. I’ve had blades that sing and they get on my nerves pretty quickly. You bought this for box joints, is the raker tooth the same height at the others to produce a flat bottom cut? The rakers on Freud blades are not the same height and do not make flat bottom cuts.

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

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oldbrowndog

3 posts in 134 days


#3 posted 07-17-2017 03:58 PM

Hi Rick- similar deal with the TS2000. If you look closely at the kerf you can see a slight bevel on either side, out to approx. 15% of the width of the kerf. So it’s not perfectly flat, actually only the middle 70% is perpendicular to the wall of the kerf, but those bevels basically disappear when you assemble the joint, so it’s ok for me. Part of the equation is that I’m also using it like you would any other general purpose blade!

View REL's profile

REL

72 posts in 3473 days


#4 posted 07-19-2017 05:34 PM

Inown three Forest blades and two Ridge Carbide TS2000. I use the TS2000 most of the time.

Enough said!

-- REL, North Jersey

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RBWoodworker

441 posts in 3168 days


#5 posted 07-20-2017 01:40 PM

These blades, to me are one of the very best out there and I’ve used a ton of different brands.. I want to try the Ridge blade made for laminates and see how it compares to the Forrest laminate blades

-- Randall Child http://www.racfurniture.com/

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StumpyNubs

7477 posts in 2617 days


#6 posted 07-27-2017 09:38 PM

I discovered Ridge Carbide at a woodworking show and decided to try it out. Hands down, it’s the best blade I have ever used (and I have a lot of good blades in my shops).

I have a discount code for 10% off. If oldbrowndog doesn’t object, I’ll post it here for anyone who wants to get one.

-- Subscribe to "Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal"- One of the crafts' most unique publications: http://www.stumpynubs.com/

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oldbrowndog

3 posts in 134 days


#7 posted 07-28-2017 12:52 AM

Hi Stumpy – sure, post away! I really like your website & videos. They are a helpful and entertaining resource!

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StumpyNubs

7477 posts in 2617 days


#8 posted 07-28-2017 12:59 AM

The discount code is: SNWJ10

Use this link to their website.

Glad to help!

-- Subscribe to "Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal"- One of the crafts' most unique publications: http://www.stumpynubs.com/

View Dusty56's profile

Dusty56

11814 posts in 3504 days


#9 posted 07-28-2017 01:34 AM

Yup, I fell for the hype on the Forrest blade as well. I was not impressed and sold it quickly. I purchased the Ridge Carbide blade and have yet to need to get it sharpened. Beautiful cuts : )

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

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Dutchy

2520 posts in 1985 days


#10 posted 08-07-2017 06:14 AM

That ring is indeed a sign of the tensioning. A blad is tensioned for a certain speed range and for a specific flange diameter. Blades with noticeable high pitched tone when the saw is spun up to cruising speed can be very irratating. But did you asked the manufacturer what diameter flanges are needed? A lot of saw machine manufactures are using (to) small flanges. The benefit is that you get a bigger saw (high) capacity, but the disadvantage is a incorrect diameter according the tensioning needed diameter. For that reason blades for power tools are tensioned specially for small flanges. Your blade is made for a table saw and normally for that blade the flanges has to have a diameter from 1/4 to 1/3 of the saw blade diameter. In your case between 2,5” and 3”. And I’m almost sure that isn.t the case on your machine.

-- https://dutchypatterns.com/

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