Excellent budget blade!

I use this blade mostly and on my table saw for cutting red oak …best bang for the buck I think…

-- christoper Blanchard, Michigan

I’ve been using this blade for over a year for everything and can not find a single fault with it. I could’n quite make the stretch to the high end blades and don’t know now that I will ever even try.

-- RTB. "dumb animals are not stupid they simply can't talk "

This is what I’m running on my (new) Bosch 4100, and what I WAS running on my (kicked to the curb) little Ryobi.

I love it … BUT … do get a bit more tear-out than I’d like on Baltic Birch ply (of COURSE, that’s what I’m working with for two projects!).

Do I NEED to use a sacrificial board underneath the to-be-cut piece … or … step up to a specialty blade for the finish ply work … or … is it likely I’m doing something wrong?

-- -- Neil

NBeener…Tape your cuts that will help some…

I have this blade and love it…but I am still thinking about getting a dedicated rip for those special occasions.

-- If you can't build it, code it. If you can't code it, build it. But always ALWAYS take a picture.

Plain old masking tape? No downside….. Thanks.

-- -- Neil

NBeener, do you have a zero clearance insert on your saw? that will make a huge impact when cutting plywood material as the insert acts as a backup to the material to the side of the cut.
The tape trick I have used when cutting melamine countertops and it works, you still can have some chip-out however.

not regular masking tape…use the blue stuff…regular might mess up your veneer…

-- If you can't build it, code it. If you can't code it, build it. But always ALWAYS take a picture.

Jerry: Got a ZCI.

Just did the cut on it, last week, but haven’t tackled any more of the Birch with it, since. Looking forward to some improvement. Thanks.

depictureboy: Got it, and thanks, on the blue painter’s tape. Got a whole roll laying around. Thanks.

-- -- Neil

I have one of these blades and love!

-- Only the Shadow knows....................

Do I NEED to use a sacrificial board underneath the to-be-cut piece … or … step up to a specialty blade for the finish ply work … or … is it likely I’m doing something wrong?

No need for backing board or tape. Use the old school trick. lower your saw blade so that only about 1/16 or so is sticking out of table. then run your sheet backward. then raise the saw blade to cut level and do regular forward cut. No tear out this way.

some super high end table saws have a second small saw blade that runs opposite of the main blade just for that purpose.

-- Router è ancora il mio nome.

I replaced my factory blade with a RIDGID from Home Depot as well. I have been very satisified with it. Have most recently run a fair amount of hard maple across it, and no troubles.

-- Measuring twice and cutting once only works if you read the tape right!

good review

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

Wood Magazine just gave this blade top marks for this price point.

-- If you can't fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem. Roanoke, VA

For plywood I use the Freud blades that have an excellent rating for plywood. As near to no tear out that I have seen from any blade.

-- DaveH - Boise, Idaho - “How hard can it be? It's only wood!”

DaveH: the one I had on my to-buy list is called

“Freud LU80R Ultimate Plywood and Melamine Blade”

Sound familiar?

I’ll try the pre-saw @ 1/16” trick first, but hold the Freud as a Plan B.

-- -- Neil

” then run your sheet backward” …sounds like an accident waiting to happen ! : (

Must be assuming that you have no blade guard , splitter or riving knife installed on your saw. Stick with a ZCI made with the blade that you’re using to cut with and tape if still necessary. Also , you might want to adjust your feed rate.

-- You know you're getting old when you know the difference between you're (you are) and your (belonging to you) AND how to use them in a sentence .

There is really no reason to run your stock backwards to make a scoring cut just run as you normally would except with the blade elevated 1/16 inch . This may be a good blade but once you try a forrest ww2 you will never look back

-- There is no growing in knowing where your going

This is all I use. For almost the price of sharpening a WWII, I get a new blade. This has consistently been ranked highly by woodworking magazines—most recently Wood. For the price, you can’t beat it. Used in conjunction with a zero clearance insert, I get great results from sheet goods to hard as nails exotics.

-- GSY from N. Idaho

Great Review. I too have this blade and the ridgid 90 tooth 10 inch blade in my mitre saw. Love them both. In the latest edition of WOOD Mag they compare many budget blades and the Ridgid 50tooh came out on top. I wish we could get them for that price up here in Canada though. $63.99 hopedepot.ca

-- If all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail!

Hey thanks for the great review!

This blade is made by Freud and is very similar to their Diablo D1050 and Industrial LU83R010 (the LU83 has thicker carbide). The LU84 is Freud’s full kerf version of the LU83. Any of these should have similar performance, but the full kerf is 33% wider so the TK’s are easier on the motor.

NBeener – The LU80 is an 80T Hi-ATB blade that’s outstanding for ply and crosscuts…the LU79 is their thin kerf version. Other blades with a similar grind are the Forrest Duraline & WWI, Infinity 010-080 & 010-060, and Amana MB10-800. CMT, Ridge Carbide, and Tenryu likely have some 60T and 80T Hi-ATB blades.

Just purchased this blade based upon this review, I was not disappointed.

Thanks!

Good to know, guys. Based on what’s posted here, this will probably be my next blade purchase. Thanks everyone!

-- "The only thing that counts is faith, expressing itself in love." --Galatians 5:6