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I wanted to really like this saw but dont

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Review by EdsCustomWoodCrafts posted 01-18-2017 03:07 AM 7853 views 0 times favorited 41 comments Add to Favorites Watch
I wanted to really like this saw but dont No-picture-s No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

Hi Folks,

So I have this saw for well over a year and have used it a lot and is supposed to be my go to tool in the workshop but sadly im not loving it…

What I like:
Its powerful enough for softwoods
Its very quiet
I love the castor mobile base that is attached.

What I don’t like
1. The fence guides suck .. the rail that guides the fence is forever out of alignment at least every month I have going underneath the front rail and tightening the nuts. I don’t like that the front rail came in 2 pieces and the joining system they have is second rate… its basically 2 pieces of plastic that fit into each adjoining face of the 2 pieces that keep it together.
2. Dust collection is almost impossible because its directly under the saw and any system that I have put in place doesn’t vacate the dust from the internal chamber beneath the saw blade, ill be the first to admit that I don’t have a quality dust collection system in the work shop yet and I am resorting to a portable dry vac to hook up a dust collection house to suck out all sawdust.
3. The blade is always out of alignment and I cant seem to get it spot on, I think I am one of them unlucky souls that receive the machine that has alignment issues and the trunnions are out of alignment.. I called Ridged and they offered me the newer type trunnions but my machine was the version before the fix came out and the new trunions don’t work, and at the same time even if I had the newer version of the saw I lack the expertise in installing them….. THIS ALONRE MAKE ME WANT A DIFFERENT SAW
4. The riving knife assembly under the table saw broke and the although they did sent me replacement parts the machine just doesn’t work the way its supposed to.
5. Ant\time I am trying to rip cut hardwoods my saw blade stalls half way through it and if I even fight the machine to push it through I trip the breaker in my house… extremely annoying so while I have this saw I don’t do much hardwood woodworking and I am restricted to using predominately softwoods…
6. The stamped steel tablesaw exstensiion insert are flimsy and they also are frequently not flush with the cast iron tabletop.. if I thought the saw was worth getting cast iron inserts I would upgrade but at this point I don’t believe any upgrade on this saw is money well spent

I am giving this saw 3 stars because even with all its fault it is a step above my 20 year old black and decker little table saw…

But if I was asked would I recommend this saw.. I would tell you make sure you get the newer version I believe the version has the Roman Numeral II on the trunnions because the model I have seem to be plagued with some issues.. .I would really like the SawStop or even the Powermatic but feel they will be forever outside my price range…

I will right a more detailed review when I get the time but for right now that’s all I have

-- Thanks Ed “A bad day woodworking is better than a good day working. ~Author unknown”




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EdsCustomWoodCrafts

715 posts in 1178 days



41 comments so far

View kocgolf's profile

kocgolf

267 posts in 2013 days


#1 posted 01-18-2017 03:22 AM

I have had mine for almost 5 years and have stalled it maybe 3 times of rip cuts, and I believe all were my fault. Is the fence aligned correctly so it doesn’t bind? What blade do you have? Maybe go with a thin kerf?

View EdsCustomWoodCrafts's profile

EdsCustomWoodCrafts

715 posts in 1178 days


#2 posted 01-18-2017 04:07 AM



I have had mine for almost 5 years and have stalled it maybe 3 times of rip cuts, and I believe all were my fault. Is the fence aligned correctly so it doesn t bind? What blade do you have? Maybe go with a thin kerf?

- kocgolf

The fence is in alignment when I put it in alignment like my review stated I have to re-alignment the fence guide rail very regularly and I have no doubt that it will knock the fence out.. but how often should a tablesaw user have to align everything like I just opened the box it came in ..

As far as the tablesaw oblade I use a thin kerf 60 tooth Diablo I know it’s not a Forrest blade but it is a good blade

I’m just sick of the alignment issues and want to spare someone the headaches that I am having.. ya know

-- Thanks Ed “A bad day woodworking is better than a good day working. ~Author unknown”

View RobS888's profile

RobS888

2316 posts in 1680 days


#3 posted 01-18-2017 05:50 AM

I donated mine to the Re-store, I couldn’t bring myself to sell it to someone. I would pop the breaker trying to rip white oak. My 1.75 hp sawstop laughs at the same white oak. My image to the left is a piece of white oak the Ridgid buried in the garage door.

-- I always suspected many gun nuts were afraid of something, just never thought popcorn was on the list.

View GR8HUNTER's profile

GR8HUNTER

2953 posts in 547 days


#4 posted 01-18-2017 03:04 PM

What I like:
Its powerful enough

5. Ant\time I am trying to rip cut hardwoods my saw blade stalls half way through it

sounds to me like contradiction

did you try a sharp blade … I always find …you get what you pay for

-- Tony Reinholds,Pa. REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

View EdsCustomWoodCrafts's profile

EdsCustomWoodCrafts

715 posts in 1178 days


#5 posted 01-18-2017 03:35 PM



What I like:
Its powerful enough

5. Ant ime I am trying to rip cut hardwoods my saw blade stalls half way through it

sounds to me like contradiction

did you try a sharp blade … I always find …you get what you pay for

- GR8HUNTER

I was talking about it being powerful enough to cut softwoods..

To be honest with you I’ve been woodworking for a while and I think I know if it is because of a crap blade or an sharpened blade..

I haven’t been enlightened or informed by anything that you have written in your reply

Have a fantastic day

-- Thanks Ed “A bad day woodworking is better than a good day working. ~Author unknown”

View CharlesA's profile

CharlesA

3292 posts in 1632 days


#6 posted 01-18-2017 03:48 PM

With the right setup (which your saw may not be capable of given your description), you can rip almost anything with this saw. I have a 113 Craftsman, basically an earlier model of this saw. With a sharp, thin kerf rip blade (24-28 teeth, not 60 teeth), I just ripped some 2” Jatoba. Jatoba laughs at the hardness of white oak. I had to go slowly, no doubt, but it can be done.

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

View Scott's profile

Scott

121 posts in 2059 days


#7 posted 01-18-2017 05:42 PM

I’ve owned one of these for about 4 years I think, and you’re spot on. I used to be a fan of these, but now I’m finally shopping for a higher end saw.

I eventually determined my fence wasn’t actually straight, and had a slight bow in it that wasn’t visible until I bought a quality straight edge. I believe this caused the binding issues I experienced. Maybe yours is the same? I replaced the stock fence with a biesemeyer a couple years ago and things are much better now.

I agree the saw is a little underpowered. It’s decent at cutting 4/4 stock just fine, but anything over it can struggle with depending on the species. Maple being the worst of course.

I also don’t believe my arbor is straight. Didn’t realize this under I installed a dado stack on it and saw the wobble on the outer part of the stack.

Dust collection works fine though when connected to a real dust collector.

View kocgolf's profile

kocgolf

267 posts in 2013 days


#8 posted 01-19-2017 12:20 AM

It’s true that this saw has some models that are just flat out bad at alignment. It seems some get lucky. I generally am, and for the price, I still think it was a great buy for me. If you have a model that won’t stay aligned, then yeah, it’s going to be frustrating to impossible and I don’t blame you at all for wanting something new.

BUT, if you were ripping white oak with a 60T? Yeah, NO. Sorry, but 60T, even a Freud thin, is a crosscut blade only in my book, especially for hardwoods. I use a Freud Thin ATB combo and have zero issues with white oak or even jatoba. I have a 60T and an 80T that are for crosscuts or installed on my miter saw.

View papadan's profile

papadan

3584 posts in 3203 days


#9 posted 01-19-2017 01:52 AM

Replace the nuts on the rails with self locking type so the rails will stay tight. Buy a high quality blade and align it properly to the slots in the table. Then align the fence to the blade. Don’t try and cut your hardwoods so fast, slow and steady works just fine.

View htl's profile

htl

3134 posts in 994 days


#10 posted 01-19-2017 02:32 AM

“As far as the tablesaw oblade I use a thin kerf 60 tooth Diablo I know it’s not a Forrest blade but it is a good blade”

I was using a 60 tooth dewalt blade on my dewalt contractors saw and it worked fine for a short while then got hot and the blade would no longer cut right.
At first I thought it was the fence then switched to a 40 tooth blade and all is well.

Less teeth for ripping More teeth for cross cuts.

-- There's a hundred ways to do anything, alot depends on the tools at hand.

View Rick_M's profile

Rick_M

10612 posts in 2215 days


#11 posted 01-19-2017 04:50 AM

A dedicated rip blade will help if your saw is underpowered. A 25T or 30T rip blade will require a lot less power than a general purpose or combination blade.

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

View Ted78's profile

Ted78

323 posts in 1835 days


#12 posted 01-19-2017 02:13 PM

Hmm, I think the problem must lie more in alignment than power or blade choice. I have an old 60’s Rockwell saw with a 1/2 HP motor and cheap full kerf HF combo blade on it, and while not fast, it will rip 1” oak just fine. I do swap the blade out for an old rip blade for anything over an inch thick or so. I don’t know that I’d give up on liking the saw quite yet. I’d second the locknuts for the fence rails, and a dedicated rip blade, doesn’t have to be real high end, just sharp and properly designed to rip. And if you have a mechanically inclined friend, maybe taking the whole thing apart, and then re-assembling it, making sure everything gets put together lined up and and squared and tightened and torqued up. If this saw uses split ring washers anywhere replace them with the little star looking lock washers and even a second lock not if possible.

-- Ted

View dbray45's profile

dbray45

3295 posts in 2611 days


#13 posted 01-19-2017 02:38 PM

I have an older version of the same saw.

I did this when I got it:
1.) put in a good dust collector – takes care of 80% (design does suck)
2.) on the right side I got some angle iron and put it on the cast iron and rails. On that, I put melamine on that so the table goes out as far as the rails.
3.) put in a heavy enough circuit to run both the dust collector and saw (15 amp)
4.) I use a good Freud blade
5.) for the bolts – there is a new product out there – Locktite. Works wonders
6.) The fence is align-able – do it! If the fence is not aligned correctly (on any TS), it will bind up a rip cut and kick the board back into YOU. This is painful. This also happens when the blade gets dull (happened to me a couple of weeks ago)

In my basement, the wheels are a good thing.

-- David in Damascus, MD

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

7456 posts in 2163 days


#14 posted 01-19-2017 04:07 PM

Bummer to hear that you don’t like your saw…

just an FYI (you probably already know this).... ripping with a 60 tooth blade will be very difficult.

Pick up an economical Diablo 24 tooth rip blade and Home Depot and you will see MUCH improvement with your ripping and will not stall as often.

Overall machine rigidity is really necessary to hold alignment. I re-habbed a 40 year old Jet cabinet saw with a Beisemeyer fence and was quite surprised to see how thick and heavy the tube and ‘L’ channel steal components are. Very stout and heavy. And guess what? It holds it’s alignment spot on. Plastic and aluminum just can’t give the rigidity needed.

I personally would not sink add’l money into the saw. Save your pennies and look for a solid cabinet saw on the second hand market.

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

View GR8HUNTER's profile

GR8HUNTER

2953 posts in 547 days


#15 posted 01-19-2017 04:15 PM

To be honest with you I’ve been woodworking for a while and I think I know if it is because of a crap blade or an sharpened blade..

he don’t want good advice :<))

-- Tony Reinholds,Pa. REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

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