Rockler Pen Starter Kit and turning kits

Jeff, I’m afraid you can’t blame the bits and bushings on Rockler. There are probably 20 different bits needed, just for the different pen kits. A lot of them are odd sizes, and there are even more needed for other project kits. Bushings are even worse. That goes for kits from all the retailers, not just Rockler, as they all get them from the same few manufacturers. I hate starter kits, personally. They start you off with a mandrel, gold plated kits, and usually friction polish, all of which can be more trouble than they’re worth. They make it easier for people to get their feet wet, though. Have fun, and post your firsts.

-- I may not know a lot, but at least I know that I don't know.?.?. I think. http://chathampenworks.com/

I also found the drill sizing to be frustrating. Some even require letter size drills, which I had no clue even existed until making a few pens. My husband bought me a drill set from Harbor Freight that has metric, letter, and fractional drills down to 64ths. This has been an awesome investment, and they work just fine.

These titanium coated high speed steel bits run cooler and last longer than standard drill bits, they penetrate 75% faster, cut more freely so you use less power, and they don’t expand with heat, so you get properly sized holes. 118° tips 29 fractional sizes 1/16” to 1/2” by 64ths 26 letter sizes A to Z 60 numbered wire gauge sizes 1 to 60

I keep a conversion chart in my shop notebook – http://www.oregonvintage.com/drill.pdf

This is very handy in cross referencing drill sizes for pens.

Lisa

-- I inherited the woodworking gene and it's gone into overdrive.......

USCJeff thanks for the heads up.

dustbunny thanks for the chart.

-- Only the Shadow knows....................

My office complex is about a half mile from Harbor Freight. I honestly haven’t thought to look there even though I’ve seen your pictured kit many times on lunch breaks. Don’t get me started on the money I spend there killing a lunch hour. I’m like most, I have a love-hate thing going on with HF. Love some, hate some. I will say, I’m picking up one next time. The more I turn, the more I realize that boring accurate and perfectly sized holes is parampount to the process.

As to the chart, I have Wood magazine version taped to a freezer in the shop (yes, I had to concede a corner for a freezer we really don’t use. I stood my ground with the Christmas Tree). I like the chart b/c my digital calipers (One of the HF “loves, ironic) doesn’t read fractions. Simpler than a calculator.

Yes, I’ll be fair and say I don’t blame Rockler, they have a good history with me and that’s why I started there when getting set up for pen making. I’m for PSI and others are very similar. Who would’ve known the lathe would be the cheap purchase compared to the supplies. The chuck and few lathe tools match the lathe alone. I do suppose many are a one time thing.

-- Jeff, South Carolina

All of the kits use strange sizes and yes it can get frustrating. I mean HF won’t have the Forster bit you need either. They go by 1/16 up to 1” and 1/8” after that.

-- What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop. No wait that doesn't sound right. Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

Yeah Karson, no chance on the forstner without ordering. I was going to settle for a spade or twist bit like above.

-- Jeff, South Carolina

I was think I might take an old, out of set forstner bit, and chuck it up in the metal lathe and peal a little off.

-- What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop. No wait that doesn't sound right. Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

I started pen turning with the PSI starter set, 5 slimline pens and 5 pencils, adjustable mandrel with bushings, 7mm brad point drill bit, 3 cheap tools (gouge, parting tool and skew), end mill and 2 part epoxy. The end mill is the only thing in that set I want to replace, I’d like to get one with carbide cutters. I didn’t bother making a handle for mine, I just use it in a drill to true up the face and clear out any glue in the tube.

-- "At its best, life is completely unpredictable." - Christopher Walken

Chris: I had a friend that I was tutoring on making pens. He called Penn State Industries to order all of his supplies. They told him not to get the Carbide End Mill, because the carbide kept shattering. Stay with the high speed steel. I had asked him to order one for me when he was ordering. So I can’t speak from any experience as to the problem.

It would be worth checking with your vendor as to the quality and warranty.

When I bought my end mill it had a threaded shaft on the end. I put a threaded connector on the shaft so I had flat sides to use in the drill press when using the mill.

-- What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop. No wait that doesn't sound right. Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

I also chuck my mill. I turned a purple heart cylinder to fit the threaded end of the mill. The centers match so flow out is not an issue. I chuck it in the lathe’s Jacob’s chuck most times.

-- Jeff, South Carolina

Karson: I’ve been using the carbide version of the mill from PSI and love it. I got tired of constantly sharpening the HSS version that came with my mill. No problems with chipping/shattering at all—maybe I’m just lucky for once and got the one that doesn’t break. So far, it has held up quite well to the end grain of some pretty hard woods and cuts as well now as when I first got it.

-- GSY from N. Idaho

Monkey Man:

Thanks for the positive review on the carbide end mill. That’s good to know. I’m not sure what would cause the carbide to shatter, the brass shouldn’t do it, nor wood.

-- What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop. No wait that doesn't sound right. Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

Hey Karson, thanks for the warning about the carbide. Like you I don’t know what would cause the carbide to shatter while it’s in use. The only thing I can think that would cause it to shatter is if it were dropped on a concrete floor or hit with something. I’ve actually used a friend’s carbide cutter, and it works great. Maybe there was a bad batch of steel or something.

-- "At its best, life is completely unpredictable." - Christopher Walken

I’d be interested to know the science behind carbide vs. HSS as far as the shattering being discussed. Logically, I would think the opposite, but there very well can be some variables I’m missing.

-- Jeff, South Carolina

I’d be interested to know the science behind carbide vs. HSS as far as the shattering being discussed. Logically, I would think the opposite, but there very well can be some variables I’m missing.

-- Jeff, South Carolina

THANKS FOR ALL THE GOOD IFORMATION MY WIFE HAS TRIED TO TALK ME INTO MAKING PENS BUT HAVN`T HAD THE TIME TO MANY OTHER PROJECTS. A LOT OF GOOD INFORMATION WHEN I GET THE TIME.

Update: I’ve also found a component that is almost essential and missing from the kit. Mandrel upgrade or not, you’ll need a 60 degree live center for the tail stock. The standard center points are at a more acute angle. Since the mandrel recess is a 60 degree cone, the more acute angle center will not support it properly w/o excessive vibration. You’ll be forced into overtightening which will not only bend the mandrel, but potentially ruin the center and mandrel with the friction created heat.

On a side note, I accidently bought the wrong taper on the 60 degree center. It was smaller than what I needed. I found that it chucked into a Jacobs chuck with no issue, so I’ll probably keep the smaller one as have had no issues.

-- Jeff, South Carolina