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Grizzly G1023SL 10" Table Saw 3 HP Single-Phase 220V Left-Tilt

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Review by Jon3 posted 07-31-2009 07:23 PM 7359 views 1 time favorited 10 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Grizzly G1023SL 10" Table Saw 3 HP Single-Phase 220V Left-Tilt Grizzly G1023SL 10" Table Saw 3 HP Single-Phase 220V Left-Tilt Grizzly G1023SL 10" Table Saw 3 HP Single-Phase 220V Left-Tilt Click the pictures to enlarge them

Disclaimer
I’m an amatuer woodworker with about 3 years of experience. I am not a professional, and I’m not paid to do this kind of work. Also, my entire shop measures roughly 11’ x 22’, and includes some storage as well, so I may be more cautious about sizing and portability compared to your average woodworker.

Introduction
I originally purchased this saw in June of 2007, and as this is July 2009, I’ve got 2 full solid years of use of it it so far, and it is still going strong. I didn’t check the arbor runout, or mic off any other various measurements when I first bought it, and I don’t think it would be terribly fair to measure it now, after 2 years under abuse by an admitted amateur. That said, the saw cuts extremely cleanly.

Like most industrial cast iron tools, it comes in pieces and covered in preservative that must be washed off. I find a plastic paint scraper, goo off, and many other various materials can be used to remove the bulk of the preservative. I strongly suggest a post-cleaning waxing of the table before you get to work.

The grizzly instructions are acceptable, and grizzly does include all of the necessary tools for assembly, although I found a socket set far easier than the cheap open ended wrenches, on many occasions.

Electrical
It comes plug-free, so it behooves you to prepare an appropriate 20Amp 220V plug and receptable for the saw, but this is the industry standard for the most part. It requires 220V, and is not 110V compatible, nor should it be. The magnetic switch does work well, but is a pushbutton, rather than a outside paddle style. I expect this to be on Grizzly’s feature list for it’s next generation of saws.

The Table
The cast iron table is quite well machined, and with feeler gauges and a 2 foot starrett rule, I was not able to find any significant low spots. It comes with a regular and dado blade insert, adjustable via allen screws, but neither are zero clearance. It is not terribly difficult to manufacture a ZCI using double stick tape and a pattern bit on the router table. I suggest new owners make that change a priority. The table extensions on the right and left are bolted on with 3 hex head bolts, and have some wiggle room to adjust. The fit of the sides to the table is quite snug.

The Fence
The Shop Fox is a well executed Biesemeyer-clone fence. Instead of laminated surface, it uses UHMW surfaces on the fence, which makes for almost no friction. The fence’s drift adjustment is via 2 allen head screws, and the fence must be lifted off the table to adjust them. As I purchased the SL, rather than the SLW, my fence is listed as being a 30 inch fence. This is a bit different, as most saws list 36” and 52” fence options. Note that these measurements are the considered to be the largest cut possible on the right side of the blade while still maintaining proper fixture distance. You’ve got a few inches of fence room on the left side of the blade, but I’ve honestly never found a reason to put my rip fence there. The fence slides back and forth quite smoothly and has enough clearance that excess dust won’t throw it off. This is one of the best fences I’ve ever used.

The Guard/Splitter
This is probably the only area of the saw in which I am disappointed. The guard attaches via 3 hex bolts, can be finicky to adjust, and is a pain to remove. It does a pretty bad job of catching dust, and generally ejects it out the front (right at the user) and to the rear, and on either open side. I rarely, if ever, use the supplied guard, and instead have replaced it with the Shark Guard splitters (but not a shard guard itself). If I do not upgrade my tablesaw in the near future, I’ll probably either design or purchase aftermarket above-table dust collection.

Dust Collection
This has a standard tablesaw’s dust collection, which is a inclined cabinet bottom leading to a single 4” duct. It works fairly well at that, but improvements to above-table dust collection are necessary to truly remove all of the produced dust. The supplied guard provides little to no improvement. Some re-engineering in this area would go a long way.

Mitre Gauge
It works, mostly. Cast iron, not terribly impressed. You should assume that you’ll be replacing this. I recommend one of the Incra ones, or a Woodriver/Jet/Rockler gauge.

Modifications and Addons
  • Sliding Table: I added (but eventually removed) a Mast-R-Slide sliding table. This required quite a bit of fine tuning, and the holes on the sliding table attachment had to be machined wider to fit, but eventually I got it dialed in fairly well. Due to a lack of space, combined with very little sheet goods work, I removed and sold the table and put the money into other tools that I use more.
  • ZCI: I made (via the method described above) my own ZCIs.
  • Mitre Gauge: I’ve replaced the stock mitre gauge with a Jet branded gauge. Far easier to work with than the stock version. I expect that when I move on to my next saw, I’ll upgrade to an Incra.
  • Bar Move: Not reall an aftermarket part, I sacrificed nearly all of my left-of-blade cut ability to increase my right side cut range by roughly the length of the left side extension table.
  • Outfeed Table: I manufactured a 12” deep outfeed table, which prevents the smaller cutoffs from hitting the floor. When I cut longer stock, I utilize portable rollers for stock support.
  • Splitter: As I mentioned, I do not care for the stock guard. A lot of the cuts I do are crosscuts on a crosscut sled, making the stock guard mostly worthless. I don’t feel comfortable without a splitter though, so I purchased a set of 3 aftermarket Shark Guard Splitters. They do a great job. The medium size is bar far the most frequently used size.



View Jon3's profile

Jon3

494 posts in 2794 days



10 comments so far

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2338 days


#1 posted 07-31-2009 07:31 PM

good review -thanks!

I think this model was always a good machine and a workhorse. I personally think that UHMW is a better material choice for fence faces as it’s smoother, and more uniformed, and less likely to change than laminations/wood/fibers. the splitter however has always been a pit pave of similar saw designs… one of the better design changes that have took place in recent years. luckily there are aftermarkets adaptors such as the shark, and bork.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27251 posts in 2511 days


#2 posted 07-31-2009 10:49 PM

Jon, this is a nice review. I have a lot of respect for Grizzly tools and your review only confirms that this is a quality tool.

Enjoy your new saw. It should be a pleasure to operate for years to come.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112325 posts in 2266 days


#3 posted 07-31-2009 11:12 PM

Hey Jon great review I’m certainly a grizzly fan.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View CreekWoodworker's profile

CreekWoodworker

409 posts in 1987 days


#4 posted 08-01-2009 12:27 AM

Jon, Thanks for the review. Looks like a nice saw.

-- Mike ...Success is often the result of taking a misstep in the right direction

View Brad_Nailor's profile

Brad_Nailor

2531 posts in 2647 days


#5 posted 08-01-2009 02:02 AM

Another great Grizzly review! And 2 years after the purchase..this makes me feel all warm and fuzzy about buying a Grizzly tool!

-- http://www.facebook.com/pages/DSO-Designs/297237806954248

View Dusty56's profile

Dusty56

11664 posts in 2377 days


#6 posted 08-01-2009 02:59 AM

WOW ! A real review from someone that has actually used their tool before posting a “review” here !
Very nice review and I really like the way that you broke down the pros and cons of the machine. : )

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View cabinetmaster's profile

cabinetmaster

10874 posts in 2247 days


#7 posted 08-01-2009 04:03 AM

Great review. I had one just like that when I had my cabinetshop. Loved it and kick myself in the A__ for selling it. Best damn saw I ever had…................sob sob….............

-- Jerry--A man can never have enough tools or clamps

View Splinterman's profile

Splinterman

23058 posts in 2051 days


#8 posted 08-02-2009 09:52 AM

A good composed review…....well done Jon.

View 45acpbuilder's profile

45acpbuilder

49 posts in 1902 days


#9 posted 08-09-2009 01:52 PM

My sentiments exactly, Jon3. I bought the 1023SL a couple of months ago and am very happy with it for the price. I’ve added a couple of mods to my saw as you have. I added 3/16” foam board to the bottom of the cabinet to eliminate the sawdust collecting in all the corners. I just cut wedge-shped pieces and made new “ramps” for the dust to slide down to the extraction port. They make a big difference in how much sawdust collects in the bottom of the stand. I also added a small board, about 1/32” shy of the table surface, to the back fence rail so cutoffs won’t fall down onto the bolts holding the splitter and get wedged against the fence. I’m looking for a pair of 8” rollers to make a more permanent outfeed roller for the back of the saw. I’m thinking of adding above-blade dust collection, too. I’ve drilled several holes in the ZCI and they help pull sawdust down into the saw but I still need more collection. Overall, I’m VERY happy with the saw. I also mod’d the power switch to bring it out from under the front fence rail. The saw was adjusted perfectly right out of the box. I’ve checked numberous cuts with a machinist’s square and they’re all 90 deg +.- “0”!! I’m not sure why you’re unhappy with your miter guage. Mine is perfectly adequate for what I’m doing. It came with the adjustable miter slot bar and with a little valve grinding compound and about 50 passes of the bar, I have “0” slop in the miter slots and silky smooth movement in both slots.

-- M1911BLDR

View Jon3's profile

Jon3

494 posts in 2794 days


#10 posted 08-10-2009 05:59 PM

45,

I am not suggesting the Miter gauge can’t be fixed, but given the caliber of the saw, and the features, adjustability, and low cost of the current crop of extruded aluminum miter gauge products, I think the currently shipped gauge is kind of an antique style, and I had trouble getting and, more importantly, keeping a true 45 on it, after installing an extension fence of baltic birch ply.

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