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Paste Wax (Car Wax)

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Review by PPK posted 08-22-2016 01:26 PM 2437 views 0 times favorited 6 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Paste Wax (Car Wax) Paste Wax (Car Wax) Paste Wax (Car Wax) Click the pictures to enlarge them

I thought about blogging this, but didn’t know if that was the right spot to put it.

Here’s my shameless plug for using paste wax/car wax for woodworking!

I am not particular to one brand over another. They all work quite well. The main thing that makes them good is the carnauba wax. This is a really tough wax that stays in place for a long(er) amount of time.

I use car wax on my steel surfaces, such as my tablesaw, jointer, bandsaw, etc. This protects them from rust, and also lubricates the surface, making it easy to slide wood across the top. I’ve used this on steel surfaces for about 10 years, and have never had rust issues on my bare cast iron steel surfaces

I also use car way on my router table top, on the bottoms of jigs and crosscut sleds, on my dovetail jig, on fences that need stock to slide smoothly, and even on the bases of my routers. I see this as a safety feature, since it helps wood & tools to glide smoothly. Feed rate is a very important part of maintaining safety, and if you have a board or tool that gets caught or doesn’t feed smoothly, it can cause kickback or the tool to surge forward.

Finally, I’ve never had any issues with the paste wax affecting my finishes on the woods. In all honesty, very little wax actually gets on the work. If it does, it sands/planes off super easily.

Bust out a bottle or tub of paste wax today – “and wipe on, wipe off!!”

-- Pete




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PPK

1095 posts in 892 days



6 comments so far

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splintergroup

2203 posts in 1305 days


#1 posted 08-22-2016 02:18 PM

The fear of silicone from wax transferring to wood is valid, but a bit over hyped in my opinion. I used car wax when I had finished assembly of my then-new table saw (I didn’t know better). Sure enough, the first few pieces of wood to pass over that table top and receive a finish had “mysterious” fish-eyes. It took me a while to figure out it was the wax and I had not sufficiently removed the excess that got down into the miter grooves. I assumed that the miter gauge dug it back out and that is what ended up on my project.

I currently just use paste wax since I have it available, but definitely feel no shame using car wax as long as you are meticulous about the ‘wax-off’ portion of the instructions!

View dschlic1's profile

dschlic1

440 posts in 2052 days


#2 posted 08-22-2016 04:42 PM

I use Johnson’s paste wax. Just as available as car wax, no silicone.

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Andre

1958 posts in 1889 days


#3 posted 08-23-2016 12:16 AM

Hard to find Johnson’s wax here in Canada for some reason? Have been using some stuff from OSMO, seems to work pretty good so far.

-- Lifting one end of the plank.

View GR8HUNTER's profile

GR8HUNTER

4337 posts in 795 days


#4 posted 08-23-2016 12:22 AM



I use Johnson s paste wax. Just as available as car wax, no silicone.

- dschlic1

DITTO

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

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jeffswildwood

3403 posts in 2060 days


#5 posted 08-23-2016 12:45 AM

I used Johnsons paste wax on a bench one time. Just seen it sitting there and said “why not” and tried it. Risky as it was to be delivered the next day. Worked great. Nice shine on the polyurethane and smooth surface. Always thought I got lucky and never did it again. Bought some minwax paste wax and began using it. Maybe I’ll try it again!

-- We all make mistakes, the trick is to fix it in a way that says "I meant to do that".

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Ted78

401 posts in 2082 days


#6 posted 08-25-2016 03:47 PM

I’ve used both car and wood floor wax (Turtle and Johnson’s) to protect table saw and jointer beds etc. Both work, but I really do prefer the car wax. It’s designed to be applied to a non-porous hard surface and whereas the Johnson’s floor wax is designed to go on wood. Most importantly, the car wax goes on green and it’s easy to see where you’ve not quite got it buffed out well enough.

-- Ted

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