| Review by GaryK | posted 313 days ago | 986 views | 1 time favorited | 20 comments | ![]() |
I have been using these blades for years now and they are fantastic. They do a great jog resawing. They create no vibration and noise due to their variable tooth spacing from 3 to 4 TPI. Leaves a great finish also.
I have cut perfect .093” think slices off of an 11 1/2” board.
Fine Woodworking April 2004 has rated their Wood Slicer blade as “Best All-Round Performer” in their independent test for speed, flatness and smoothness!
It also has a very thin blade of .022”. At only $29.99 for common sizes it’s hard to beat.
You can see more at:
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1293
-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.
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20 comments so far
TomFran
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2371 posts in 534 days
posted 313 days ago
Thanks for your review here Gary. I am definitely going to get one with the money I saved making my book stand!
-- Tom, Surfside Beach, SC - Romans 8:28
Sawdust2
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870 posts in 628 days
posted 313 days ago
I’ve been using Timberline and am not really satisfied.
From your picture it looks like you are not using a fence that is as high as the wood. Others have told me that having a tall fence would improve resawing.
-- No piece is cut too short. It was meant for a smaller project.
GaryK
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8567 posts in 528 days
posted 313 days ago
Sawdust2 – That’s actually a stock picture from their website.
Having a fence as tall as the wood would only work if you have adjusted the fence for drift.
I do do that when I am making precision cuts.
Sometimes I am just resawing some 8/4 stock to 4/4 stock and I don’t want to put a tall fence on. What I do is clamp a piece of wood on the table at the width of cut then use a featherboard to keep the bottom of the board against it. Then I just draw a line on the top of the board and just follow the line.
It’s suprisingly quick and accurate.
-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.
Sawdust2
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870 posts in 628 days
posted 313 days ago
Must be practice.
I’ve done the David Marks thing about adjusting for drift but that changes with each blade.
On free hand resawing I do alright for about 5 feet and then there will be a small bump. Usually only a problem for the small side if I’m trying to resaw 5/4 to make 1/2 boards.
-- No piece is cut too short. It was meant for a smaller project.
Dick, & Barb Cain
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5399 posts in 840 days
posted 313 days ago
You beat me to the punch on this one Gary.
I recently purchased one, & tried it on a 9’’ thick piece of Maple.
It cut like a charm, with my fence set straight. not a bit of drift.
I think a lot has to do with my saw.
I really haven’t had one of these blades long enough to say how long it’ll last,
but by the looks of it, I think it’ll last a long time.
I’ll be buying more of these.
-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1
TomFran
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2371 posts in 534 days
posted 313 days ago
Gary,
What size blade would you use for most of your work with the bandsaw? Do you usually keep the same blade on yours to do everything?
-- Tom, Surfside Beach, SC - Romans 8:28
rikkor
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8644 posts in 415 days
posted 313 days ago
Thanks Gary. Resawing is all I do on my big bandsaw. I believe I’ll be ordering one of these bad-boys, soon.
-- Maplewood, MN
Dick, & Barb Cain
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5399 posts in 840 days
posted 313 days ago
When I tried my Wood Slicer blade, I took this picture.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
A nice clean cut.
-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1
GaryK
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8567 posts in 528 days
posted 313 days ago
Tom – I usually get 3/4” for a stiffer blade, but I have also used the 1/2 with equal success. I would recommend the 1/2” first because you can do more with it other than resaw. Tighter circles and curves.
I usually only change blades when I have to. I would much rather be cutting things.
-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.
Karson
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14327 posts in 941 days
posted 313 days ago
I had one years ago. The cut was fantastic on all of the practice cuts. But when i went to do the real cuts the blade seemed to be dull and wouldn’t cut.
I was unhappy.
-- Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †
Bob #2
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2101 posts in 562 days
posted 313 days ago
I’ve been jonesing for a luaguna resaw blade since I saw the cut they got at a local woodshow.
This does not look too shabby either and it seems the price is much better.
Gary, where did you find the listing for a 3/4” blade? I must have missed it when I looked at the site.
Cheers
Bob
-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner
GaryK
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8567 posts in 528 days
posted 313 days ago
Bob – Here is tha main page showing all the options.
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=295
-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.
Grumpy
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6734 posts in 391 days
posted 312 days ago
Great tips there Gary. I use a similar blade. The larger teeth make all the difference.
-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python
Lee A. Jesberger
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2898 posts in 520 days
posted 311 days ago
Hi Gary;
I too was using a timber line and wasn’t overly impressed with it.
Actually I didn’t see any difference from the jet blades I bough with my saw.
Lee
-- by Lee A. Jesberger http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com http://www.ezee-feed.com
GaryK
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8567 posts in 528 days
posted 311 days ago
Hey Lee,
This isn’t the Timber line it’s the Wood Slicer from Highland.
Maybe you meant the Wood Slicer though.
-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.
John Gray
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886 posts in 426 days
posted 265 days ago
Thanks for the information. Great post!
-- Only the Shadow knows....................
tenontim
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962 posts in 284 days
posted 265 days ago
Gary, I’ve been using the Woodslicer blades also and I’m impressed. I only use a 3/8” blade for resawing. I tried a 3/4” blade when I first bought my saw. I think that 3/4” blade puts too much stress on your saw, and you’ve added the riser block, which may be even worse.
Keep an eye on alignment and your upper wheel shaft bracket.
-- Tim -- http://tmuli.com
Mark E.
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67 posts in 283 days
posted 265 days ago
I have never been able to successfully use a 3/4” blade on my 14” Reliant with a riser block. It just doesn’t seem like the saw can apply sufficient tension to the blade.
The 1/2” WoodSlicer blade works great. Better than any other blade I have used for re-sawing.
-- Mark
Bob #2
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2101 posts in 562 days
posted 256 days ago
After hearing the merits of Highlanders Woodslicer Blade for many years I took the plunge about 2 months ago.
They sat on the back of my 18” while I smashed away with a 1” bimetal to do some milling.
Yesterday I went to run a few pieces of 6/4 cherry and the saw would not address the line.
After 3 hours of adjusting my saw I relented and put the wooodslicer in place.
B i n g o !
I’m converted now!
Rght down the line first time and almost ready for 180 grit.
Thanks Gary.
Bob
-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner
woodup
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145 posts in 483 days
posted 67 days ago
I finally got a woodslicer blade for my grizzly GO513x. It is great! What a big difference! I read that it cuts like butter and with a straight line. It’s all true!
-- Michael, Fort Worth, TX. "I wood if I could!"