Leecraft Phenolic Insert GE-3

Thanks for the post Chris, I bought this same insert a couple years ago and have yet to use it. About a month ago I decided to give it anther try and finally cut the slot. I followed the directions and did it the same way you did. It didn’t cut too bad but there was some burning due to the composite material, I guess that’s normal. What I’m worried about now is that the slot is too tight and the blade might catch. Did you had this problem?

-- Blair

Blair,
I have not had this problem at all; keep in mind that the saw will sound completely different with the zero clearance opening. I installed it yesterday and worked with it for nearly 5 hours with no issues at all.

-- Chris

I guess I’m just being paranoid. Thanks for the quick response.

-- Blair

Chris – One method to level your homemade insert is to glue small pieces of wood to the corners and then sand them to the correct height.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

For my 1/2” plywood zero clearance insert I just screw 4 #5 screws from the bottom to act as levelers. Is there something wrong with that approach? That said it’d be nice to have a flat piece of phenolic insert, or until someday I get some baltic birch scrap.

-- Ed

Redshirt, do you get much vibration / noise using screws for leveling?

-- If you think healthcare is expensive now, wait until it's free! PJ O'Rourke

Ed,

There is nothing really wrong with any of the approaches. It’s just that I average 60-70 hours a week with my real job and I like to maximize the time I have to actually work on projects so I chose this route.

-- Chris

Hey Chris
Thanks for the reveiw. I make mine like Garyk does

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

I’m with Chris and Ed here. These things cost about $20 where I’m at, and to make one would take me over an hour I’m sure. Not to mention cleanup and such…...I build jigs rather than buy where possible, but this one is a no brainer for cost vs time value….

On my saw, a dado is required because the 10” blade sticks up >1/2” below the plate, so I’d have to router or dado that out, then make my through cut….putting in screws or blocks, sanding, painting….oh brother….to save $20? I have bright orange and red ones for dado’s and regular cuts, they have leveling screws in them and they are super slick on top…..

Oh, as the OP mentioned, they have a screw in the side to make a nice tight fit….and to eliminate vibration. And a safety pin in the rear…

The only drawback is this thing STINKS to hell when you first cut it….

To me, making these myself would be a complete waste of time….

-- Somewhere, something incredible is waiting to be known. -Carl Sagan

Tom, my plywood insert don’t really vibrate much even when they are on 4 screws…I think the cast iron table dampen much of the motor vibration and probably the little bit of friction between the table and the plywood edge keeps it quite steady.
Chris I know what you mean, it’s alway a dilemma between spending a lot of time making jigs so it’s easier next time vs actually getting down to the current project.

-- Ed

I’ve heard a lot of people here say that they make their own from cheap plastic cutting boards from WallyMart , etc.. I haven’t tried it yet though because I don’t think it is the same type of plastic (UHMW). Does anyone know for sure ?

-- You know you're getting old when you know the difference between you're (you are) and your (belonging to you) AND how to use them in a sentence .

Well, not being in a hurry, I make mine as well but I’m glad to hear that the phelonic option is decent.

—Joe

-- JMP

I usually spend a little more than an hour and make about 6-7 of them. It only takes a few minutes to make each additional one. Then I use them over the next 3-4 years with different width dado blades.

With my standard blade I have been using the same one for over 3 years now. Well worth the time. You can also build a splitter into them.

But if you don’t have then that’s a great option.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

Dusty56, it does not have to be the same exact same material for it to work for you. There so many different kinds of material that are used for inserts, everything from cast pot metal to plexiglas to wood. I was given a tip from another LJ that since my blade is so close to the table top I should use a smaller blade first, ie my TS blade is 10” so I should use a smaller 7 1/2 or 8” blade to make the first cut then put my 10” blade back in and cut again. NOTE: both blades need to be the same kerf.

-- Never board, always knotty, lots of growth rings

Like Gary, I make several at once. I have one that is the pattern that I use for the rest. I put a #4 screw in the end to keep the back from lifting. For leveling, I drill 4 holes and drive set screws through them. This way I can still level from the top of the table, like store-bought inserts.

Joe

-- If you can't fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.

Kindlingmaker ...thanks , I know that already .
My point was that some plastics are more brittle and may shatter and /or are too flexible and may not work as well as the UHMW products. My present insert I made myself from Ash and depending on the season , it is either too loose or I have to pry it out of its place or it is just right . Thanks for the feedback.

-- You know you're getting old when you know the difference between you're (you are) and your (belonging to you) AND how to use them in a sentence .