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Part 2 "Sold for Auto work but works on wood"

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Review by sandhill posted 1933 days ago 5305 views 0 times favorited 19 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Part 2 "Sold for Auto work but works on wood" Part 2 "Sold for Auto work but works on wood" No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

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Finally I am getting to do some spray painting I spent hours watching videos and worrying about lord knows what… So armed with 3 spray guns my mask on my face and dressed up like a bio-tech sci-fi movie character I was ready to lay my first covering and I have to say I was as nervous as a school girl (What ever that means) The first gun I tried was the touch up gun with the 1.0 mm tip right out of the box which is really to small for the paint which was latex and required a 1.5mm tip I guess I envisioned paint pouring from the tip uncontrollably which is why I choose to go with the small gun and the 4 oz. cup I figured this would build my confidence and it would run out of paint before I made to much of a mess. Here I am now pulling the trigger wondering why no paint was coming out so I opened up all adjustments to the max and here it comes!!! A very faint mist of paint… But I’m a Spray painting Weeee…

-- Bob Egbert AKA Sandhill http://www.sandhillwoodworks.com/




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sandhill

2117 posts in 2548 days



19 comments so far

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sandhill

2117 posts in 2548 days


#1 posted 1933 days ago

You may also notice these are designed for Auto painting but all kidding aside I found do problems with this spray system so far. I am doing mostly large projects and found clean up very fast and easy.

-- Bob Egbert AKA Sandhill http://www.sandhillwoodworks.com/

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a1Jim

112008 posts in 2201 days


#2 posted 1933 days ago

Interesting Review

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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thelt

618 posts in 2003 days


#3 posted 1932 days ago

Any spray system should work with just about any paint/stain/etc. As long as the consistency is right. I use a Wagner HVLP spray system that is primarily for painting home interior walls. It works great on any covering I use as long as I get it thinned right. Works aboslutely fantastic on spraying a stain and minwax or stain and Thompson’s waterseal mixtures.

-- When asked what I did to make life worthwhile in my lifetime....I can respond with a great deal of pride and satisfaction, "I served a career in the United States Navy."

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sandhill

2117 posts in 2548 days


#4 posted 1932 days ago

What do you use to thin latex paint?

-- Bob Egbert AKA Sandhill http://www.sandhillwoodworks.com/

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Sawdust2

1467 posts in 2711 days


#5 posted 1932 days ago

I use Flomax to thin latex

Lee

-- No piece is cut too short. It was meant for a smaller project.

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sandhill

2117 posts in 2548 days


#6 posted 1932 days ago

Well today I went to use the 1.8 mm gun and no paint came out. Thinking it was the paint I checked the viscosity and found it would be good down to a 1.5mm tip so I took the gun apart and found it gunk-ed up. My only conclusion being that this gun was a return that someone tried and did not clean all the way. It took me about 2 hours to get all the crap out and now its back together and ready to use but wait! the spray is not even its going from heavy to mist!!! What now? My air lines are clean and the air is dry and filtered so I try the red gun which is a 1.4 mm tip. This works much better so I finish up and go back to the 1.8mm gun and find that the air adjustment passage way was clogged as well coming from the bottom of the gun back to the bench to clean it again More to report tomorrow.

-- Bob Egbert AKA Sandhill http://www.sandhillwoodworks.com/

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sandhill

2117 posts in 2548 days


#7 posted 1932 days ago

I did a google search for flowmax and came back with this:

I have been on Flowmax almost a year. It solved the hard to go problem almost immediately. I do not have any problem going to the bathroom and usually make it through the night now without having to get up. I do not have a particularly hard time getting an erection, but I have notice a much lower ejaculation and less satisfying climax. But age could also be a factor for me at 64. For the most part I like what Flowmax did for me. Before the doc put me on Flowmax there would be times I had a hard time urinating and it was scary. For me I will have to continue using the drug.

Needless to say I went to you email to check the spelling. Did another search and the results were the same. LOL Do you have another name for this stuff?

Are you sure your not talking about Floetrol

-- Bob Egbert AKA Sandhill http://www.sandhillwoodworks.com/

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HarleySoftailDeuce

273 posts in 2043 days


#8 posted 1932 days ago

Cool! Here’s a question for you. Should I buy a sprayer or just try hand application? I’ve never used a gun for furniture. I am fiamiliar with airbrush for artwork. Any suggestions on buying a first gun?

Paul

-- Paul, Bristol,Rhode Island

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sandhill

2117 posts in 2548 days


#9 posted 1932 days ago

That was my question HarleySoftailDeuce so I read and watched a lot of videos then I picked up the G7000 It was only $79.95 I don’t remember if shipping is extra or not. I just finished the chair and clean up was fast the paint went on even, although I could have thinned it a little more and it would have gone quicker but I need to practice my technique so there is no rush. I will post some pictures of the finish spray job of primer on the Adirondack chair I am painting. I need to sand it down a little before I apply the finish coat. The chair is red oak and the grain is split open from the weather even though I painted it with 2 coats of spar varnish the Fl weather took its toll and I don’t want to be out there refinishing chairs every year so I am painting both of them. I am looking into a ceramic additive that will help the paint last a bit longer. After I get the two chairs done I am going to do the house so by the time I am done I should be a pro. Right now I see no reason to pay hundreds or thousands of dollars for a higher end spray system like Erlex or Apllo. Not for my applications

-- Bob Egbert AKA Sandhill http://www.sandhillwoodworks.com/

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thelt

618 posts in 2003 days


#10 posted 1931 days ago

Sawdust, Did you mean Floetrol instead of Flomax?

I use a product that is called Floetrol, I believe. It is available at Home Depot. It thins, but also makes it flow on with a LOT (LOT!) less brush marks and stipple. You can add a tad of water, but be careful.

-- When asked what I did to make life worthwhile in my lifetime....I can respond with a great deal of pride and satisfaction, "I served a career in the United States Navy."

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RobH

465 posts in 2673 days


#11 posted 1931 days ago

Hey Sandhill,

I have a couple of Harbor Freight guns that look similar. I have shot nothing but mineral spirits out of any of them (that was suggested for an initial cleaning). I am hoping for a project soon that I can try it out on. I have two larger guns and a smaller gun. They look exactly the same as those (except color). Your experience is giving me some hope.

Thanks for the information,
Rob

-- -- Rob Hix, King George, VA

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sandhill

2117 posts in 2548 days


#12 posted 1931 days ago

Piece of cake Rob, Go for it. Just get a big piece of card board and or some old stuff you can practice on that you don’t care if you get a few runs on. I feel like an old pro now that I have done a chair and some plywood and sticks of wood.

-- Bob Egbert AKA Sandhill http://www.sandhillwoodworks.com/

View Douglas Krueger's profile

Douglas Krueger

396 posts in 2347 days


#13 posted 1931 days ago

Thelt says it all in the third post, the viscosity of the liquid is the key. Picked up a gun here for about 70 bucks and have never had any problems other than operator error.

Clean up is a breeze, after the reservoir is emptied, I just dump in about a third cup of what ever the thinning agent is, spray about half of it out, remove the nozzle and spray a bit more to get all the big pieces out The last of the remaining thinner is sprayed onto a rag that is used to wipe down the gun and reservoir. This all takes a couple of minutes and have never had a problem with clogging on the next use.

Biggest problems have been spraying on too thick which causes runs. The other issue is dealing with over spray when spraying the inside of drawers or an inside corner as it causes the mist to collect on the previously sprayed areas resulting in a rough surface and a ‘white’ patina. (with lacqeurs and varnishes) My fix for the drawers is to take some wet 1500+ grit sandpaper and knock off the mist and for inside corners to do it in stages and mask off the previously sprayed areas.

Hope this helps someone.

-- I can so I wood but why are my learning curves always circles

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sandhill

2117 posts in 2548 days


#14 posted 1931 days ago

How about a piece of cardboard to deflect the over spray? The biggest question I have is why would anyone buy a $350 to $1,200 spray system if you can get about the same results from a $40.00 spray gun???

-- Bob Egbert AKA Sandhill http://www.sandhillwoodworks.com/

View Frankie Talarico Jr.'s profile

Frankie Talarico Jr.

353 posts in 1980 days


#15 posted 1929 days ago

I agree with you on that sandhill. You can buy spray guns at home cheapo. $40 – $85. yes, they are cheap, yes they are a little bigger than the one reviewed here. But I had less problems with that gun, than the $300.00 gun my old boss swore by. He insisted you get what you pay for. I agree when you buy certain things….like mayonaise. other things go well with the cheap stuff. I still use this gun for three years now. And I don’t think i’m going to ever put money into kremlins bank.

-- Live by what you believe, not what they want you to believe.

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