LumberJocks

Grizzly G0490X 8" Jointer With Helix Cutter Head

  • Advertise with us
Review by Kelly posted 09-02-2015 03:24 AM 14281 views 0 times favorited 26 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Grizzly G0490X 8" Jointer With Helix Cutter Head Grizzly G0490X 8" Jointer With Helix Cutter Head No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

GRIZZLY G0490X 8” JOINTER

After a year of looking for a good jointer and losing out on three nice ones, due to procrastination, I finally bit the bullet and bought a new Grizzly 8” Jointer with the helix head.

The model number is G0490X. The X indicates the jointer is equipped with a helix head.

Assembled, the jointer is the heaviest tool in my little shop, weighing about five hundred seventy-five pounds.

Now that I’ve ran some highly figured walnut through the Grizzly, I’m glad I missed the boat on the other jointers. They were equipped with knives.

ASSEMBLY-OPERATION MANUAL

Generally, the manual is good and lets you know all you need to know to get your jointer up and going. More information could have been provided on installing the guard (details below), but little else is left to the imagination, or others’ experiences.

Someone with experience could take short cuts, some of which I note below.

ASSEMBLY

I drove from North Central (Eastern) Washington to Bellingham and picked the jointer up at that Grizzly showroom. Though quite distant, it’s an impressive place and one I wish I could visit more often. Meanwhile, the have one heck of a catalog.

Helping the fork lift driver load the two boxes into my little Ford Ranger allowed me to appreciate the size and weight of the jointer. Subsequently, and during the trip back, I was concerned about getting the jointer out of my truck and assembled. Moving it from the garage into the shop, on the other hand, didn’t worry me, because the unit is equipped with wheels (the single one is iron).

I had seen a few guys rig harnesses and lift the bed onto the stand. As fate would have it, though working with a large piece of missing heart and at sixty-four, I was able to do remove the unit from my truck and assemble it by myself with less significantly less effort than I used to move my Unisaw.

I was able to ease the base, with the motor, out of the truck by flipping it and easing it down and out. Turning the box upside down is not a problem, since the motor is secured and you have to, if you want to lite the box off the base.

Once the base was on the floor, I removed the side panels and installed the wheels. Once done, I turned the unit on its side, so I could lay the motor on its permanent mount frame, to avoid having to hold it while securing it. When bolting the motor in place, I left the mount bolts somewhat loose, so the motor could be adjusted to bring its pulley in line with the jointer pulley.

NOTE: The control panel mounts on the jointer, once its secured to the base.

After the base was mobile, I removed all but the base of jointer crate while it was still in my pickup. Then, I was able to push down on and lift the end of the jointer bed to duck walk it off its crate base. I was lucky. The jointer was not bolted to the base, and was undamaged.

After I removed the crating top, sides, front and back, I rolled the base to the back of the pickup and locked the wheel. For my pickup, there was only about 1/2” difference in height between the truck bed and the mobile base top.

I was able to pull the jointer straight back, out of the pickup, with surprisingly little effort. Before easing it onto the base, I put some of the crate foam under the front of the jointer, to avoid scratching the base as I pulled the jointer fully on to the base.

Once the jointer was ready to drop off the truck, I put more foam under that end, then finished pulling the jointer out of the truck, onto the jointer. It landed on the jointer smoothly.

If there had been more of a height difference, merely placing boards, 2x’s or whatever was needed to fill the gap between the bed and the jointer base would have allowed me perform these tasks will only a little more effort, but still not a lot of brawn.

Once the jointer was on the base, I lifted the ends, one at a time, and removed the foam. The balance of the jointer was such I was able to lift one handed and remove the foam (or wood) with the other hand.

I moved the base and jointer back from the truck, bolted the jointer to the base, then bolted the control panel to the jointer.

With comfortable working room, I just used one of my depth gauges to insure the motor pulley was the same distance from the back side of the base as the pulley of the jointer and went through the expected steps to lock it in position, and lock down the motor. Cake walk.

I did a quick install of the fence and guard, then re-installed the sides and rolled the unit into its place in the shop.

Once in the shop, I had to loosen the top screw of the guard and turn the part it was holding with channel locks to add tension necessary to its working properly. This was not covered in the, otherwise, good manual.

The stock plug was the same as my cabinet saw, so testing the jointer was a plug swap away.

BUILD QUALITY

The wheel raising and lowering mechanism is well worth the extra expense. Even if moving the beast is a little like herding a slightly trained cat, it raises and lowers easily and the unit rolled from the garage to the shop just fine.

Once in place, there are two legs that can be adjusted to stabilize jointer on uneven floors. They require a happy medium adjustment. Too long and they act as brakes, when the wheel is being used, and too low and the unit can still rock. Adjustment is easy though (you can do it by finger, but a wrench would be smarter, in case the wheel let down).

There were no sharp edges I needed to be concerned about. The paint, my abuses aside, was fine.

The only thing I, as the end user, might do to the end build quality is, add a small dab of epoxy to the tip of the gauge on the end of the fence. It’s not a problem during use. However, during the build, I caught on it several times. I was more concerned about it bending than being cut by it, but that is a possibility. A little epoxy would fill any void, smoothing it, lessening the likelihood of it bending it in the future.

The three horse motor on this unit starts much harder than the one on my Unisaw, but runs smooth. It would be interesting to do actual power comparisons of the two motors, since the Unisaw runs at half the amperage, but claims the same horsepower and has never bogged on me.

SET UP

I was able to get good edge joints on two inch thick stock running the jointer out of the box.

I had to tweak the eccentric bed adjustments to produce six inch stock that could be glued face to face.

The manual indicated the fence should be removed to adjust the tables. I found merely locking it up, out of the way gave me all the working room I needed to complete the task.

I was apprehensive about how complicated it would be to adjust the eccentrics, but it went quickly. It was a simple matter of loosening the Allen screws and using a drift punch to coax minor movement, then seeing if I had more or less air under the straight edge.

I adjusted the bed stops with relative ease, per the directions in the manual.

OPERATION

Setting the in-feed table height is just a matter of turning the table lock, then moving the lever under it. I tapped the lever to get it to move the little I wanted for the setting I was after.

The gauge is a reasonable indicator of the depth of cut. If I need dead on precision, I’ll take the faced wood to the planer.

The power button is mounted on a steel tube and feels stout, when turning the unit on or off.

Had I not read the manual, it might have taken a moment to figure out the OFF button has to be turned, before the ON (start) button will start the motor. The red light indicates the unit is off and the knob needs to be turned, to turn on the jointer.

After the initial start, the jointer felt smooth and the running motor has that nice sound of a power you expect with a cabinet saw.

Using several passes, at about 1/16” per pass, I converted some very rough and highly figured walnut into boards that will require only a little finish sanding. They were were good enough to face joint, so edge jointing would have been a cake walk.

Of course, the spiral head inserts were all new, but I could not see any tear out, even around the tight knot in the most figured area.

Having only used planers with knives up until now, it’s comforting to know blade changes will be fewer, because of the carbide edges on the spiral head. Too, it’s comforting to know I don’t have to change all the blades because of a nick. I just have to turn the damaged insert(s) ninety degrees.

DUST COLLECTION

For the time being, the Grizzly is connected to my 3hp Jet collector via twenty feet of 4” hose. In spite of that, I leave more shavings on the floor sharpening a carpenter’s pencil.




View Kelly's profile

Kelly

1312 posts in 2487 days



26 comments so far

View DougN's profile

DougN

58 posts in 1898 days


#1 posted 09-02-2015 01:40 PM

Glad you are enjoying your new jointer. I just got one myself (my first jointer) and I am loving it.

-- Doug - Montgomery, Tx

View wisconsinwoodrat's profile

wisconsinwoodrat

1 post in 1240 days


#2 posted 09-02-2015 02:07 PM

Thanks so much for the review. It’s perfect timing as I’m about ready to pull the trigger on a Grizzly jointer.

One question: Is yours the Byrd Shelix or Grizzly Spiral. If it is a Byrd, did you order with the Byrd installed or install it after? I thought the 490X came with only the Grizzly spiral cutter. The reason I’m asking is I’d like to order one with the Byrd to match my planer (one kind of inserts to buy). I thought I was going to have to buy the 490 and the Byrd separate and install it myself.

Thanks in advance for your response.

Chris

View Kelly's profile

Kelly

1312 posts in 2487 days


#3 posted 09-02-2015 04:03 PM

Mine is fully stock from the Bellingham, Washington, store. As such, it’s a Grizzly, rather than a Byrd head.

I am unaware of if you can order the jointer with the Byrd Shelix on it. I know others have posted regarding a head swap, but I just figured I’d avoid shelling out the extra four hundred fifty a year or two down the road and deal with the swap. In the end, I guess the price between a stock jointer with Grizzly’s spiral and swapping a knife unit over to a Byrd would be in the ballpark of the same price.

I note the specs for the Grizzly inserts are: 14mm x 14mm x 2mm inserts, with a 6.5mm center hole. The Byrd is indicated to be 15mm x 15mm x 2.5mm.

Below is some information I found regarding replacement cutters for the Grizzly.

As you may have found, Grizzly wants about seventy dollars for ten replacement cutters. The Byrd site wants about half that. Then aftermarket sources, for the Grizzly, are about half that. At the price savings, it may be having two different cutters is less a problem.

__
NOTES:

  • “Marty Tippin 02-16-2015, 11:58 AM

Grizzly wants $69.95 for a pack of 10 inserts http://www.grizzly.com/products/Carbide-Replacement-Inserts-14-x-14-x-2mm-10-Pack/T21348

Global Tooling sells 14×14x2mm inserts for $1.73 each – $17.30 for a pack of 10. http://globaltooling.bizhosting.com/products/carbide-insert-knives.html

I learned the original inserts on the G0453PX are actually 14.17mm square, not exactly 14mm square. A company that carries a German-made exact replacement for the “JT” inserts on the Grizzly cutter head http://www.oellasawandtool.com/products/14mm-x-14mm-x-2mm--T21348-JT-Carbide-Replacement-Inserts-for-Grizzly-Spiral-Heads.html that are priced between Grizzly and Global Tooling.

I’ve inquired with John at Global Tooling as to the exact dimensions of their inserts – may have to cancel my order and go with the German ones if the Global Tooling inserts are not the same size.

[follow up post]

I ended up ordering the exact-replacement inserts from Oella Saw and Tool http://www.oellasawandtool.com/products/14mm-x-14mm-x-2mm--T21348-JT-Carbide-Replacement-Inserts-for-Grizzly-Spiral-Heads.html, as they assured me that these were identical to the T21348 inserts required by the spiral head in the G0453PX (and G0453Z) planer. In fact, after placing my order online, I got a followup phone call from the company to confirm that I really wanted 30 (!) inserts and that these were really for the Grizzly cutter head. Very friendly folks and seemed to care about customer service.

Also on the plus side, shipping for my order of cutters and a bunch of replacement Torx head screws was less than $3.00 via USPS—no inflated shipping prices to to gouge a little more profit from their customers as is so common these days.”

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

6313 posts in 1871 days


#4 posted 09-02-2015 08:42 PM

Had I not read the manual, it might have taken a moment to figure out the OFF button has to be turned, before the ON (start) button will start the motor. The red light indicates the unit is off and the knob needs to be turned, to turn on the jointer.

That’s common on most newer pieces of equipment, as the off button serves the dual purpose of e-stop.

You’ll likely find that most nicks occur at the corner of the carbide inserts, which means you have to rotate them 180 degrees and only get one turn out of them before replacement.

This is the exact jointer I want some day. Thanks for posting the thorough review.

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

View Kelly's profile

Kelly

1312 posts in 2487 days


#5 posted 09-02-2015 09:19 PM

Re “You’ll likely find that most nicks occur at the corner of the carbide inserts, which means you have to rotate them 180 degrees and only get one turn out of them before replacement.”

I figured, if Murphy showed up at my shop, again, I might want to consider running him through the jointer. This new information changes things [since he might be wearing a belt and buckle, as well as be packing a pocket knife or keys].

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

5046 posts in 2356 days


#6 posted 09-02-2015 10:13 PM

I have the Delta DJ-20, which is nearly identical to the 490. Is yours wired for 120 or 240 volt?
Mine is 120v, and I wonder if it would have enough power to spin a helical head for 8” face jointing.

I put a helical head in my Dewalt 735 planer and really like it. I do notice that I tend to take lighter cuts with the helical head.

Thanks for the review.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View Kelly's profile

Kelly

1312 posts in 2487 days


#7 posted 09-03-2015 02:18 PM

The G0490 (knives) and G0490X (helix head) are configured with three horse motors, so you’re pretty much stuck with 220, which, of course, mine is.

As smooth as mine cuts, I have to wonder if it would do fine with a two or even a horse and a half motor. Even if it would, having the extra throttle is nice and more so in figured wood.

Regardless of power, I suspect staying with about 1/16” cuts, rather than the max of 1/8” is just a good practice.

Keep in mind, facts about the electrical aside, I am FAR from expert status on the operation of my jointer.

View TheGreatJon's profile

TheGreatJon

320 posts in 776 days


#8 posted 09-03-2015 02:38 PM



I have the Delta DJ-20, which is nearly identical to the 490. Is yours wired for 120 or 240 volt?
Mine is 120v, and I wonder if it would have enough power to spin a helical head for 8” face jointing.

Power should be unchanged. You will draw twice the amperage with a 120v input as compared to a 240v input, but that is just so that you get the same power. Power = voltage * amperage.

-- This is not the signature line you are looking for.

View woodmaker's profile

woodmaker

317 posts in 2234 days


#9 posted 09-03-2015 07:28 PM

I have the same one since 2013- love it its been a work horse for all this time and have not had to rotate a tooth yet. I run a lot of walnut, maple and cherry through it, no problem.

-- Mike

View Halc's profile

Halc

142 posts in 1145 days


#10 posted 09-03-2015 07:52 PM

I have the same jointer and it’s time for me to rotate the cutters for the first time. I tried briefly a few days ago and couldn’t loosen any of the screws that hold them in place. Do any of you have any tricks I could try to get them loose?

View woodmaker's profile

woodmaker

317 posts in 2234 days


#11 posted 09-04-2015 01:19 PM

Halc, soak them in WD-40 might help to loosen them up.

-- Mike

View pmayer's profile

pmayer

916 posts in 2608 days


#12 posted 09-04-2015 01:43 PM

Halc,

I would use a hardened Torx bit in an impact driver to loosen these up. Those screws are really tight from the factory, so don’t use a cheap bit or you will snap it for sure.

-- PaulMayer, http://www.vernswoodgoods.com

View Halc's profile

Halc

142 posts in 1145 days


#13 posted 09-04-2015 02:27 PM

Mike and Paul,

Thanks for your suggestions. The edges I’m jointing are ok, the faces I joint need some sanding. I’m going to put up with it until winter weather arrives and I close up my garage shop until spring. I’ll take the cutter head out and then I can work on those screws in my basement. I will keep your tips in mind. Thanks again.

View Kelly's profile

Kelly

1312 posts in 2487 days


#14 posted 09-04-2015 09:53 PM

I taped all mine in just a kiss on low with my Panasonic impact using the provided Torx drive bit. It worked, but twisted ninety degrees, so a hardened one, or two, for an impact, is a must. That said, an impact should do it.

View Halc's profile

Halc

142 posts in 1145 days


#15 posted 09-04-2015 10:54 PM

Thanks Kelly.

showing 1 through 15 of 26 comments

Have your say...

You must be signed in to post the comments.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com