|Review by Tucker||posted 1789 days ago||6957 views||0 times favorited||31 comments|
- Grizzly G1023SL 10" Table Saw 3 HP Single-Phase 220V Left-Tilt
- Brand: Grizzly | Category: Tablesaws
I purchased the Grizzly 1023 SLW left tilt tablesaw with the router table extension. With everything setup as Grizzly suggested (as well as with my experience tuning tablesaws) it never ran quite right. There was a whirring sound, (I originally thought it was the motor) that was sometimes ear-piercing, not long into its use (few weeks). It had a definite rhythm that slowed in time with the belts.
It would screech and whine, expecially when shutting down. I called Grizzly. They insisted the belts needed tightening, the blade was bad, or the saw was out of alignment somehow. So, I purchased a better blade: same result. I then reset all the belt tension: same result. I tried it with them on the phone with no blade: same deal. Finally, I had a life to live, so I just lived with the noise. The neighbor was well aware of my saw use due to the whirring.
Just after the warranty, I tried to get some help. “Well, you’re out of warranty, but I can give you free advice about what to try” came the reply from Grizzly support. Nothing suggested seemed to matter.
Finally, when making a blanket chest (cut, test, cut test, etc.) the saw was running for a few minutes. A racket exploded out of that saw unlike anything you’ve ever heard. I quickly unplugged it. I thought the motor had given out initially. After I removed the belts, the motor was fine. However, I could barely budge the arbor assembly. Bearings, etc. Gone.
Nice. Halfway through a Christmas project, and now I had no saw. I called Grizzly, who helped me to ensure that it was indeed the arbor bearings all along. Any pleas for reasoning that I gave for a replacement fell on deaf ears (the guy was very nice, but his hands were tied). There was no record of my earlier calls while the unit was still in the piddly one year warranty. So, no help there in terms of evidence of my troubles when the saw was still covered.
So, I bit the bullet, and ordered a new assembly; $150.00. I didn’t want to deal with punching out bearings, etc. so I just replaced it all. I fixed it, retuned everything, and bought a PM2000. I sold the saw on Craigslist. It probably runs better now than it ever did, but I just didn’t want to risk starting this whole problem (or the other grizzly nightmare stories I’ve read) again.
The new saw, with a 5-year warranty, is in another class entirely. I can’t explain how much smoother, quieter, and more efficient that Powermatic is. Additionally, it has a riving knife! Thank you! No kickback to kill me is a nice feature.
I also have a Grizzly jointer. It’s fine for now, but I’ll never buy another Grizzly product again. If they had only met me half-way and replaced the faulty part, I wouldn’t be typing this. I would have retained some faith in their faith in their product. However, I cannot rate this saw anything better than the lowest rating because of this, and the incredibly dangerous operation of using a saw without a riving knife. My life is worth any money that I have. If I’m already gone, I certainly can’t spend that money on safety to replace my life (or my fingers). Once gone, they’re gone.
It’s been quite awhile since I first posted this. I must say that I was a bit surprised at the number of folks who have found it helpful in their decision. Now for an update. I ventured into the realm of Powermatic in replacing this saw with a 3hp single-phase PM2000. It was quite a saw. I bought it because I couldn’t find a SawStop anywhere locally, and I didn’t want to wait. I bought the PM2000 off a showroom floor. It was delivered basically for free. It was a dream to operate. Very smooth operation, very precise cuts. very finely tuned. Now for the not-so-great part. I couldn’t move the saw around my very small shop (a necessity) because the mechanism to operate the wheels didn’t work.
The saw came with a retractable base assembly that allows for the lowering/raising of the wheels under the base of the cabinet. However, dang thing was a bear to put into the position to turn the crank to lower or raise. You see, you have to pull out the right-hand handwheel to engage a bushing that in turn cranks a shaft to turn the chain underneath to lower or raise the wheels. Great design, but it didn’t allow me to turn the wheels. I could barely move the wheel! Had to use a rubber hammer just to get it to move! “Hmmm,” I thought. “This can’t be right.” Then, if I was able to persuade any wheel adjustment, I couldn’t then move the blade. Same handwheel for both operations on this saw.
So, back to the tool place I went. A new one was set up there. “CLICK” out came the handwheel, which then operated like a dream. “For the love of…” I can’t believe this. “So that’s what it’s supposed to do!” I thought I’d better call Powermatic immediately. This seemed like something that a Pro should be fixing. I initially thought there was a bearing or something that was bound up. Removal of the tabletop seemed tantamount to sussing it out.
I called WMH toolgroup (Powermatic). After several missed connections and several tries for suggestions, they sent out a guy to fix it. After several hours and lots of bolts being undone, he took the assembly (parts) with him for replacement. After a couple of weeks he returned and after a few choice phrasings trying to reassemble, he got it all back together. Only to find: still didn’t work. Same problem: shaft is at angle and just bound up.
“I’m going to suggest that they replace the saw,” he said. “Huh?” To their credit: they offered immediately to do so. That is good customer service: fair and responsive. I’m still thinking about just returning it, as I now am within driving distance of a tax-free purchase of a SawStop.
Just thought it would be worth it to post the update. Again, I realize that there are no perfect products, but good customer/product support makes all the difference.