|Review by RichClark||posted 01-07-2009 01:37 AM||14055 views||1 time favorited||18 comments|
It Arrived Yesterday, The full Sized Freight Truck was coming and I had ran off to find some help to get it offloaded, when I got home it was in my garage! (I love my local UPS Freight!) Anyway Here goes.
The Jointer was packaged in 2 boxes. The HEAD/FENCE/ARMS in a wooden crate (Picture 1)
The BASE and the Power Switch in Box 2
Everything was intact and all parts (nuts, bolts etc) were inventoried and nothing was missing. It came with hex keys to adjust gimbals and Metric wrenches (for the assembly nuts etc) These weren’t stamped ones, the were “real” wrenches, I thought that was cool.
I rented a engine lift to get it out of the crate and over the base, that was pretty straight forward. I used a
Tie down rated for 1 ton, and figure-8 wrapped it as close to the cutter head as I could so as not to strain
the arms. Then it was a matter of jacking it up and moving the base under it. No worries. Three bolts
and it was stable and ready to get cleaned up.
To protect steel cut metal, (we all know is a lot of messy waxy grease) I used a Orange based degreaser to clean it
up, I followed the directions and removed the fence, cleaning up everything really well then reassembled it.
Installing the V-Belts was simple and frustrating. The motor mounts essentially on the slope of the dust chute.
The instructions called for loosening the 4 bolts, putting the V-belts on and letting the motor’s weight be the
force to set them. ( I may be to anal?) but I wasn’t happy with that and screwed around with it for, like an hour and decided to walk away from it.. I could get them tight, but then the motor was “wracked” and that is not good for bearings. I woke up this morning and went back in loosened the mount bolts again and just let the motor settle
and insured it was level and aligned with the cutter head. (reason for this remark is that its not a car, there is a bit of deflection following the instructions but the machine runs fine doing so)
The Electrical hookup consisted of mounting the Magnetic switch and the On/Off power arm.
You need to buy your own plug, a standard 240v 6-15 cost me 8 bucks and while I was there I rummaged and picked out the UGLIEST piece of Red Oak from the box store offcut bin (at the BORG Store).
The only issue is that the ground to the motor hookup required my son to stick his head inside to align the
the tiny screw to the motor housing, My eyes are horrid and I couldn’t see what I was doing in there.
Installed the Guard and checked and aligned the outfeed table to the head, checked and set the fence stops and was done. (about 2 hours out of the box to ready to play). (Picture 2 – hooked up to DC and ready to play)
Does it work—
The cut off I found was about 4’x6”x3/4 and was bowed and had a slight cup. I pretended to myself
that it needed to be 5 1/2”x1/2” and was checking for snipe and square. (Picture 3) shows how it came out.
Its square and true and you hold it to the light the edges are shiny like a hand plane was used.
This is not a “Spiral” Cutter head model… When I got the “Kitchen Pass” to buy it, the OYMO (One you must obey) and I decided that when the cutters get dull a few times, well buy the Spiral head for it. Its interchangeable with the
head on it now.
I have a Steel City 1.5HP mobile DC and after I cut up the bit of testing wood I pulled the Vacuum line and
there was “nothing” in it. There was very minor dust near the Safety “Pork chop” guard. In all I was very pleased!
I hope this is useful. I will reply as I can to any questions.
-- Duct Tape is the Force! It has a light side and a dark side and it Binds the Universe together!