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Grizzly H7583 Tenoning Jig

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Review by Jagerheister posted 04-30-2015 12:24 AM 7481 views 0 times favorited 27 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Grizzly H7583 Tenoning Jig No-picture-s No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

A few day ago I purchased a Grizzly tenoning jig for an upcoming project on Amazon for $78.00 USD. I did quite a bit of research prior to pulling the trigger on the purchase, and I didn’t find many sources of video demonstrations or specific product info other than specifications and written instructions. I decided to do a video just to propagate and proliferate information on this product.

I’ve provided a link below to a video review that I did of the unboxing, and assembly. In this video, I focus on the components, quality, fit and finish, etc so that others in the market for a tennoning jig can evaluate and compare.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Poc5JfL02M

Please Enjoy, Subscribe and Like.

Thanks




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Jagerheister

37 posts in 1203 days



27 comments so far

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

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#1 posted 04-30-2015 11:51 AM

No video? Inquiring minds would love to know why only 3 stars out of 5!

-- Bill

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Jagerheister

37 posts in 1203 days


#2 posted 04-30-2015 11:57 AM

I accidentally deleted the video from YouTube last night. I’m working to get it back up…

I’ll send out notification when everything is back up and running…

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WoodNSawdust

1417 posts in 1256 days


#3 posted 04-30-2015 12:19 PM

From the picture it looks like the wood is above (not resting on) the surface of the table saw. Is this correct? If so is this safe?

-- "I love it when a plan comes together" John "Hannibal" Smith

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Jagerheister

37 posts in 1203 days


#4 posted 04-30-2015 02:54 PM

Ok, I fixed the link above… You should be able to view it now…

Sorry for the confusion.

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Jagerheister

37 posts in 1203 days


#5 posted 04-30-2015 03:11 PM

@WoodNSawdust

According to the Grizzly users manual the work piece needs to be offset from the table top to prevent binding as the work piece is translated across the table… This “feature” is described as being driven by safety issue in the users manual. You’re supposed to clamp a piece of wood to the table top that has been planed down to the same height as the base plate of the jig… Also, there is an issue with an interference of the workpiece, and the base plate when your making shallow cuts that requires you to clamp the work piece above the base plate…

To me having to make a spacer and clamp it to the table seems like an extra step in the set up and rigging process for this tool that will contribute to hassle that makes it less likely that you’ll actually use the tool… Also, it’s not apparent that you have to do this when you buy the tool because they don’t show this piece in the ad photos, or product description… If you don’t have a planer, your pretty much screwed, or forced to use the tool in a way that is not consistent with manufacturers instructions.

I did illustrate why you have to do this, and why I feel like it’s a hassle in my video review…

Thanks

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pintodeluxe

5732 posts in 2893 days


#6 posted 04-30-2015 03:26 PM

Most tenoning jigs I’ve seen allow you to drop the workpiece all the way down to the table. Does this jig adjust to allow that, or is the base fixed as shown in the video?
Thanks

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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gearupflapsup

16 posts in 2010 days


#7 posted 04-30-2015 03:27 PM

Thanks. Great Review. Liked the paint comparison too…..

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CyberDyneSystems

288 posts in 2268 days


#8 posted 04-30-2015 04:55 PM

I got one of these a few years back, and I’d give it zero stars out of the box.
I am glad yours was of better Q.C., but I’d not give yours 3 stars either, based on your own findings.
My guess is that if and when you actually try to put it to use, you may come back and reduce those stars.

Mine was out of adjustment and unable to be adjusted to cut parallel with the blade and miter slot without machining of some kind.

The cast iron base which appeared to be “roughly flattish” before use, would in fact flex every time you tightened the slide adjuster, (a necessary tightening, not something optional) and make it so that only two corners contacted the table, meaning it would rock and roll all over the place. The ease with which this piece of cast iron would buckle was amazing to me.

Mine was clearly worse than the one reviewed in the video, however, to answer the question, “If you have a discrepancy of .009 right here, what does that translate in terms of .. in your tenon…? “

It translates into being virtually impossible to make consistent tenons, inconsistencies that make tenons that are of little use to me. The small number measured at the base / table are magnified considerably all the way out at the end of the arm that is holding the wood in place. A measurement there would show 1/16 to 1/32 of an inch. Pretty big slop when you are reducing a piece of 3/4” stock down to a 1/4” or 3/8” or even 1/2” tenon.

I deduced that it could be made to function with some pretty major adjustments and milling, adding stiffeners that would prevent the “racking”, I then considered the time required, and promptly bought one of the OLD SCHOOL Delta 1172 mortising jigs. The Delta is fantastic, but they don’t make it any more.

-- Without the wood, it's just working

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Jagerheister

37 posts in 1203 days


#9 posted 04-30-2015 05:44 PM

@pintodeluxe

There are two positions for the slider guide bar, and one makes the clearance to the base worse than the other. I think what your looking at in this video is the better of the two positions… See the pic.

With that said, It literally states in the instructions that you need to make a spacer and clamp it to the saw…!

#-#-##-#-##-#-##-#-##-#-##-#-##-#-##-#-##-#-##-#-##-#-##-#-##-#-#

View Ocelot's profile

Ocelot

2019 posts in 2718 days


#10 posted 04-30-2015 06:41 PM

I bought an almost identical jig from Rockler a couple years ago.

I added a digital readout to it, which greatly increased it’s usefulness for me.

Also, you can attach a wooden faceplate to it so that you can cut down to zero offset without risking hitting the cast iron with your blade.

I don’t know why they are now suggesting that you let the wood fly up there in the air. I think it would make depth adjustments more difficult and it would seem to me that the wood is less securely held that way.

http://lumberjocks.com/Ocelot/blog/25387

-Paul

View RogerBean's profile

RogerBean

1605 posts in 3033 days


#11 posted 04-30-2015 06:51 PM

I have the Delta version of this same jig. While it works fine, I find that on any individual project, that I can cut the tenons by hand about as fast as I can get the jig set up, with the trial cuts necessary to get it right. Then all over again for another couple tenons. Goodness knows, I’ve certainly made a lot of poor tenons with mine. ....by not taking enough time to get it set up properly.

It certainly does what it’s supposed to do, but I find that I hardly ever use it these days. However, if you have a number of the same thing to do, it works fine. Different strokes.. I guess.
Roger

-- "Everybody makes mistakes. A craftsman always fixes them." (Monty Kennedy, "The Checkering and Carving of Gunstocks", 1952)

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

8255 posts in 2408 days


#12 posted 05-01-2015 01:55 AM

re. the .09”

I don’t think you will find the geometry of the miter slot is precisely uniform from one saw manufacture to another… so a tenoning jig intended to be used on any saw certainly can’t be machined for a pucker tight fit. Indeed, my experience has been that the miter slot geometry often varies slightly on the same saw, from one end of the table to the other.

As the OP noted in the video, the jig will only rock if you push on the wrong side of it…. so… use it correctly and you’ll be all set.

As for the set screw, well… it’s a set screw… imo some things in life just aren’t worth the emotional energy of getting upset over. cut your bolt off and Dremmel a slot in it and you could have made your own in less time than you spent ranting about it on camera. Then call Grizzly and you’ll have a nice 25 cent allen head set screw in the mail in 3-4 days.

YMMV, but I think for the money, I think the Griz looks like a pretty good deal. the “deluxe” Delta is 30% more , the regular Delta (an exact clone) is 15% more, and the Jet is double.

I guess it’s all a matter of what one expects from the discount China tool vendors.

-- I yam what I yam and that's all what I yam

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Jagerheister

37 posts in 1203 days


#13 posted 05-01-2015 01:15 PM

I agree with most of your points in the video.

The only exception is the issue with the set screw. I think it’s reasonable to expect all the parts to be in the box when I exchange cash for products. Even discount tools.

My reaction in the video was a bit of a rant, but an honest one.

I hope you enjoyed the video. I have some other tool reviews coming up soon… Please subscribe

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Jagerheister

37 posts in 1203 days


#14 posted 05-01-2015 01:20 PM

@Ocelot

I think your right about attaching the face plate. My guess is that you could probably find an offset that will provde enough clearance in most situations for the work peice to sit directly against the table surface.

Also, I like the DRO modification that you did to your jig… The level of ingenuity of fabricators never seeses to amaze me…

View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4862 posts in 3128 days


#15 posted 05-01-2015 03:23 PM

I bought a very similar jig form Woodcraft years ago only because it twas on sale and I thought that I had a use for it but in fact I never used it, not even once.

-- Bert

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