| Review by ferstler | posted 54 days ago | 1105 views | 0 times favorited | 9 comments | ![]() |
- Ridgid JP0610
- Brand: Ridgid | Category: Jointers

OK, before I purchased the JP0610 I owned a 30-inch Delta JT160 tabletop jointer/planer. (Shown to the right in the wider-angle photo.) I still have the thing and now store it on a shelf where it can be quickly hauled out onto my shop’s workdeck for rough-and-tumble work that does not involve longer boards.
The 45-inch-bed Ridgid JP unit has replaced it as a precision tool (some have complained of table alignment problems, but mine seems perfect in that respect), and of course the new unit has a built-in stand. It is a pretty basic jointer/planer, with outfeed table star wheel and lock screws for that end of the cast-iron table assembly and a hand crank to allow for quick adjustment of the infeed table. The table tops are very well finished and I found no misalignment issues once I had the unit assembled. Assembly itself was rather simple, and the fence was also perfectly aligned (leveled) and went into place with no hangups. The assembled machine weighs a tad more than 200 pounds.
The manual is pretty good about dealing out instructions, but I do recommend making sure that the two pullies are not only set up properly in terms of vertical tension but are also parallel to each other and in front-to-rear alignment. The manual mentions the vertical alignment requirement but does not mention the parallelism issue. Adjustments for in/out alignment can be made by moving either the motor or the table assembly, but adjustments for parallelism can only be made by moving the motor before tightening the motor-mount screws. Only basic hand tools are needed to assemble the tool. The tool also came with a comprehensive parts breakdown list, typical with Ridgid tools.
The manual suggests mounting the motor with the assembly flipped upside down, but it also mentions that tensioning the belt can also be done with the assembly rightside up – using gravity to do the tensioning. I followed the latter suggestion, but one must remember that the motor is heavy enough to put too much tension on the belt. Care must be applied to get the belt deflection to the 1-inch point the manual suggests.
I modify nearly all of my tools, and this one was no exception. The amount of “editing” was more than what I did with the Ridgid sliding compound miter saw I will review elsewhere and considerably less than what I did with the company’s band saw, also slated to be reviewed by me.
First, I installed it on a mobile wooden platform under the unit’s metal stand. (See photo.) This helped to stiffen up the entire lower assembly. The platform sits on 4-inch wheels, each of which can swivel. Doing this not only allows me to move the unit out onto my shop’s outdoor workdeck but also gets the cast-iron table surface 6 inches further off of the floor. I like my worksurfaces to be rather high up. To stablize the base when using the tool I built two large wooden “chocks” that I can push under one end of the platform to keep the unit solidly against the floor at four contact points and from moving about as I slide workpieces along the table. Note that for maximum tipping resistance the base had to be large enough for the wheel contact points to be outboard of the stand contact points.
Second, the motor mounts to oval-shape cutouts in the bottom of the dust chute. The motor chassis does not cover the holes completely, which will allow woodchips to drop into the motor area. To combat this I put pieces of clear packing tape over the cutouts inside of the dust chute after mounting the motor. This reduces the amount of dust dropping onto the motor itself.
Third, I initially replaced the stock belt with one that I picked up at an auto parts store. I did the same thing with my 14-inch Ridgid band saw (also reviewed on this review site), but in the case of the jointer/planer the belt that came with the product was not as weird as the one that came with the saw. Indeed, the stock belt seemed reasonably well made, but it still seemed a tad too stiff for my taste and for a while at least that much more flexible (and American made) segmented belt remained installed. However, I later on went back to the stock belt, because that flexible and segmented automotive grade belt I tended to oscillate too much, generating its own weird vibrations to the chassis.
Fourth, the unit has a four-inch dust port on the left side of the stand. (The port assembly can be removed so that gravity can pull chips down the square chute to the floor if one cares to do things that way.) All of my other tools have ports that are 2.5 inches or smaller, so my dust-collector device (which is simple, uses no bag, and simply blasts dust out into my “natural” yard area) has a 4-inch to 2.5-inch adaptor solidly attached to the end of the 4-inch hose. To facilitate the use of this adaptor I installed a similar adaptor to the 4-inch port on the jointer. The reduced air flow from the neck-down configuration has not resulted in dust piling up inside of the tool’s dust chute.
Finally, the unit has two vertical cutouts on one end of the metal stand (the end opposite the dust-port) where one can store the two push blocks that came with it. When in place they tend to rattle and so I store them on a shelf next to where the device is parked when it is inside of my small shop. To make use of the two cutouts I installed a very solid wooden handle that lets me more easily manhandle the unit out onto the deck. I can do this by grasping the table assembly, of course, but I prefer to not use that part of the jointer as a handle. The added handle works fine and there is more than enough clearance between it and the outfeed table crank.
I like this jointer/planer. It runs smooth and cuts true. It is easy to adjust and after running through dozens of feet of wood the blades still seem dangerously sharp. I ordered spare blades from Ridgid ($10 bucks apiece for three, a not-bad price) and will use them when honing the blades that came with the unit no longer is viable.
Certainly a jointer/planer with a longer bed would work better with longer boards than the 45-inch Ridgid, but it would probably be so heavy that I could not wrestle it out onto my workdeck. It would also cost more. The Ridgid unit was listed at $399 at Home Depot but I talked to a clerk about that price (up from the $349 it had been a few months before), and he knocked it back down to $349. I think they are selling the thing for $450 these days.
Howard Ferstler
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9 comments so far
bbqking
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285 posts in 264 days
posted 53 days ago
Congratulations. I own the same planer and totally agree with the 5 star rating. It is a shop workhorse and I have never had any trouble with it since straight from the box. I own other Ridgid equipment and this seems to always to be the case. They always work great. Note- I had mine moved over 1000 miles by a relocation firm, carted all over the east coast on its way to Georgia, carried around the house and into the basement shop. When I had it where I wanted it, I plugged it in and ran a board through. No adjustment necessary. Amazing. bbqKing.
-- bbqKing, Lawrenceville
bayouman
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62 posts in 205 days
posted 52 days ago
I agree with the bbqking. Mine is an excellent machine and it gets a sizable amount of work. I buy almost all of my material in the rough and mill it to what I need. I couldn’t do that without my Ridgid joiner. It has already saved me enough money to pay for itself.
Emeralds
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40 posts in 103 days
posted 51 days ago
I too own the same the jointer and it’s been a great asset to my shop. I would also rate it as 5 star unit.
-- JMP
BeechPilotBarry
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418 posts in 243 days
posted 50 days ago
I had the same tool and would rate it highly. Mine provided stellar service.
I replaced mine when I stumbled upon a “clearance” non-X5 Delta DJ-20 for $1000, brand new.
-- - Real men read directions
laflaone
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23 posts in 221 days
posted 50 days ago
I may sound like a broken record, but I have the same jointer, and I love it. My base is similar: A piece of MDF to match the jointer base, then two 2×4’s which extend out 3” or so on each side, then rollers. It raises the jointer up to a decent height, and eliminates the problem of it being tippy. Only one complaint. The blade guard will allow something slightly under 3/4” to slide under it. Now, I would be uncomfortable jointing something 1/2” on less, but there still is a lot of dimensioned lumber that could stand a bit of jointing and planing. I have solved the problem, but I am afraid OSHA would come after me if I revealed how.
mot
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4863 posts in 577 days
posted 50 days ago
Nice review. I have the same jointer and have had good use from it.
-- You can discover more about a person in an hour of play than in a year of conversation. (Plato)
kansas
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45 posts in 241 days
posted 47 days ago
I bought mine from a outlet store selling reconditioned tools. I got it for $270 but it needed a belt, the nut for the big bolt that tightens the fence was gone and the key for the switch was also missing. I’m a cheapskate so I made do. It seems to have a bit of a table concern if you set the fence close to the guard. I’ve fiddled with it a lot and can’t seem to make it any better. Someday I hope to replace it with a better machine but the price was right and it’s did a lot of work.
MikeGCNY
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2 posts in 35 days
posted 34 days ago
I was at HD last night and noticed this jointer is on sale for $301.00. I had a 10% off coupon and picked it up for $270.00 plus tax.
Setup was a breeze, and it seems to be fairly well aligned out of the box. I did have one issue lining up the bolt holes of the motor support and the base.
Just bring someone with you to pick it up. I was alone when I noticed it on sale and had to wrestle it onto a cart and lift it into my car.
Thos. Angle
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3448 posts in 502 days
posted 19 days ago
Me too. I just wish it was 12 inches wide and had a 9 foot table.
-- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon