| Review by spaids | posted 86 days ago | 580 views | 0 times favorited | 12 comments | ![]() |
- Triton MOF001KC 2-1/4 HP Plunge Router
- Brand: Triton | Category: Routers

I am a new woodworker so everything I do is a new learning experience. This Triton is my first plunge router. It comes with a lot of accessories and its already a good price even with out the extras. It has some cool features like a selectable rack and pinion height adjustment for quick large increment hight changes. It comes with a handle for through the table height changes. It comes with a circle cutting jig and edge guide and a full set of bushing inserts. As a table router I imagine it will excel. It does not have a soft start though. That might actually be good in a table router as many people chose to wire to a separate switch which I have heard that a soft start might not work well with. As a plunge router a soft start would be nice. The big problem I have with it as a plunge router is its depth setting mechanism. Unlike other routers that have different length posts on a turret, this router has screws with a nut on a turret. You might be thinking hey thats great you can set them to any height that you want. I thought so. I then used this router (my first time ever using a plunge router) and even as a beginner I quickly realized why the other version of this mechanism is better. If you want to say … mortise a hinge. Its nice to be able to just stick that hinge on top the the post and drop the depth guide rod onto it. you can do this with the triton but only to that one depth. What if you want to route out something thats going to take a couple passes? You could have a sample piece of some depth you want to route and use that at the lowest setting and use the higher settings to make the first couple of passes. With the Triton you can not do that. You have to turn this little knobs that spin on threaded rods and adjust them to the correct hieght using a measurement scale thats not terrible accurate. If you wanted to use a sample piece, or maybe even you have some little pieces of stock that you have milled to use for depth gauges, you can only do so by putting it on the edge of the small knob and then you have to make sure your holding it flat and level. It simply is not ideal. Learning this tells me that if/when I buy another plunge router, I know what I don’t like in the depth setting mechanism. If I ever permanently mount it in a table then I’ll probably love it. I still give it 4 stars because it does do everything that its supposed to do and it does them all well. Its price is outstanding and the problems I have are from me not knowing any better when I bought it.
-- Total Freakin Newbie
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12 comments so far
OutPutter
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234 posts in 530 days
posted 86 days ago
Doesn’t the turret have a solid black post on it to use for depthing?
-- Jim
Bob #2
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2101 posts in 562 days
posted 86 days ago
Are you missing this drop down post on yours?
They want you dial in the depth of cut when doing mulitpass plunges for mortises etc.
1/4”, 1/2”, etc.
Bob

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner
spaids
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137 posts in 233 days
posted 86 days ago
OutPutter: you can see from Bob’s pic that the black post is the highest possible setting. So if you have to make multiple passes your out of luck when using that.
Bob: Thats my point exactly that they want you to dial in the depth with the little knobs and the indicator. I feel that is not nearly as accurate as using the actual hinge for setting the depth and I also think using that indicator in general is some what inaccurate.
Now that I have used the Triton I know that I would much prefer the method used by Porter Cable.

-- Total Freakin Newbie
OutPutter
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234 posts in 530 days
posted 86 days ago
spaids,
Try this for multipass, increasingly deeper cuts.
1) Use something to set the depth guage above the black post and leave it suspended just like in the picture above.
2) Use the micro adjuster to lower the bit to accomodate the first pass. Lock the depth with the lever next to the right hand knob.
3) Make the cut.
4) Repeat steps 2 & 3 until the depth adjustment tube hits the black post indicating that you are as deep as you need to go.
Does that help?
-- Jim
Mark Shymanski
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715 posts in 253 days
posted 86 days ago
My Triton has the softstart… I wonder why yours is different. The variable speed is pretty cool, my first router had one speed, full bore and it always seemed to want to chew through the wrong side of the line :-)
The depth setting on my Triton is as pictured above in Bob#2’s post; notice that there are (should be?) two black threaded knobs so you should be able to set both of them to whatever depths you need to be cutting whilst morticing a hinge. Using Jim’s advice above (and keeping in mind there should be two dept-setting posts to work with) should give you pretty accurate results. Success on working with your new router.
-- ....next big purchase is wood for the next project, Mark
spaids
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137 posts in 233 days
posted 86 days ago
Wait wait…. your triton does a soft start? Its this same 2 1/4 horse model? What the heck is going on here? Mine most definitely does not start soft.
OutPutter: Thats an idea you got there. So #1 I just set the depth with the black post. (Assuming I have plunged the bit down until its at the zero cut point and locked it in) #2 then instead of just plunging to the set depth on the black post for the first cut I use the micro adjuster to get some arbitrary cut depth. ( its not my final depth so it doesn’t matter here as long as I remove some) #3 repeat.
so the micro adjust will adjust the depth even when the plunge is locked? If that works then SWEET!
-- Total Freakin Newbie
spaids
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137 posts in 233 days
posted 86 days ago
ok I checked and the micro adjust will only work in the rack and pinion plunge mode. I could still incorporate the method that your talking about though. I could just switch to free plunge when I got close. Good idea Jim!
-- Total Freakin Newbie
Lee A. Jesberger
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2898 posts in 520 days
posted 82 days ago
I haven’t used one of these routers, but understand there top knotch. I’vr piked ‘em up and said ooh and aaah but being just a poor humble woodworker, I always put them back.
Bob, I be very grateful to hear your review on this router. Are they all there cracked up to be?
I keep looking at the festool as well, buy can’t help but feel they’re too pricey. I the quality is that of the other festool tools I have, I may reconsider the price point.
As with all us woodworkers, dust is a consideration, so that’s a strong point in festools favor.
We’ve actually used their circular saw and sander in the same room as a man hooked up to oxygen for hid lung problems, and caused him no distress.
They are certainly well engineered.
Lee
-- by Lee A. Jesberger http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com http://www.ezee-feed.com
BobR
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133 posts in 525 days
posted 81 days ago
I have two Tritons – a 3HP table mounted with soft start, and a 2 1/4hp for hand held work. No soft start on the 2 1/4hp. Both of these are 240V for the Australian market. So far they have both performed to my expectations for the type of work I use them for.
-- Bob
spaids
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137 posts in 233 days
posted 79 days ago
I am perplexed by the 2 1/4hp not having the soft start. Mark said his does have it. I looked at the Triton site and it said it should have it. But mine and BobR both do not have soft start on ours. I emailed Triton customer service about this twice and in over a week have yet receive a response.
There is a lot I like about this router. I still maintain that the porter cable style of plunge depth setting is the way to go and if you can only have one router I think having one motor and changing bases is a good idea. I have to get out tools and remove my triton from the insert plate to take it out of the table. If it was a two base set up it would be much faster to go from the fixed base, always mounted to the table, to the plunge base.
All that being said the Triton has a great deal of value for the relatively low price. If money wasn’t an obstacle I’d have to go Porter Cable.
-- Total Freakin Newbie
Mark Shymanski
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715 posts in 253 days
posted 73 days ago
Hello, I’ve been down south and out of computer range so haven’t responded to your surprise at no soft start. CharlieM1958 did a review on this router a while back and I didn’t notice if he specifically commented on the soft start. It is a feature I really like, and used a lot when working on freehand cutting some dadoes for my fence project (which I’ve not yet blogged ;-). It appears to be the same model number. I am wondering if it is an American/Canadian model thing with models distributed in the Commonwealth different than those distributed to the States? Like CharlieM1958 the review in Fine Wood Working sold me on this router. I purchased mine over the ‘net from Sears for $199 Canadian.
Just checked, CharlieM1958 is also from the USA so it would be interesting to note if he has soft start on his.
-- ....next big purchase is wood for the next project, Mark
spaids
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137 posts in 233 days
posted 34 days ago
Update to my review:
There is one thing that this router is AWESOME at. I put it in a table and the included crank that comes with it is SWEET. You just insert it in a small hole that you drill in your insert plate and you can adjust the height of the bit through the routers full range from above the table. Once you raise the bit all the way up the router will auto lock the spindle and safety lock the power switch and you can do bit changes from above the table with a single wrench and one hand if you were so inclined.
I’d still prefer the porter cable style plunge depth setting though.
-- Total Freakin Newbie